Your not going to get dual 2mm RDA type of pull on a ProTank because of design, you must have enough resistance to allow negative pressure or it won't wick properly.
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Your not going to get dual 2mm RDA type of pull on a ProTank because of design, you must have enough resistance to allow negative pressure or it won't wick properly.
Thanks for the acknowledgement Bill. There were times as I was stuck testing standard and loose m.c.'s that I just about gave up on the KPT. I waited to seriously adopt the dripper until I was able to roll out a true and proper electrical coil or I would have had to give up my study. That is, I couldn't have labored with two so distinctively different flavor results. Correct electrical coils mean everything for a clearo. And THAT is the reason I pursued this study. I believed that new vapors could get better than typical eGo type results on a proper tank but that wasn't happening. And no a KPT is not a Kay, but it ain't shabby Bill! Not with a proper tensioned coil.
Yeah, no physicist, metallurgist or EE mee but I remember my science yo.
Good luck Bill.
Makes sense and thanks again. I am getting good flavor and I have rebuilt it with micro-coils and it's a little better. I also took a file to it and opened it up even more. I'm using a VV 3x18650 setup, the power regulation is great on this mod. It's dialed in pretty good. No gurgling or wet hits, so that part is ok. It actually blows clouds it's just the draw that I'm not a fan of. I also went with more PG than I usually use and that helped some. 80/20.
I'll give it another day or so or maybe keep it for morning vapes when I'm not looking for lung hits anyway.
Thanks for all the great info on the thread. I'm not a noob in general. In fact I have been vaping since before the 510 came out. I just haven't used this tank before and thought I would at least give it a fair shot knowing that a lot of people do like them. It's easy enough to rebuild and the flavor is good so it has that going for it for sure.
I'll give it another day or so or maybe keep it for morning vapes when I'm not looking for lung hits anyway.
Thanks for all the great info on the thread. I'm not a noob in general. In fact I have been vaping since before the 510 came out. I just haven't used this tank before and thought I would at least give it a fair shot knowing that a lot of people do like them. It's easy enough to rebuild and the flavor is good so it has that going for it for sure.
Thanks for the acknowledgement Bill. There were times as I was stuck testing standard and loose m.c.'s that I just about gave up on the KPT. I waited to seriously adopt the dripper until I was able to roll out a true and proper electrical coil or I would have had to give up my study. That is, I couldn't have labored with two so distinctively different flavor results. Correct electrical coils mean everything for a clearo. And THAT is the reason I pursued this study. I believed that new vapors could get better than typical eGo type results on a proper tank…but that wasn't happening. And no a KPT is not a Kay, but it ain't shabby Bill! Not with a proper tensioned coil.
Yeah, no physicist, metallurgist or EE mee…but I remember my science yo.
Good luck Bill.
I have fond memories of the Protank. I read where people aren't a fan of the little topper. I used an air flow controller, which as we all know, allows control not only of the draw, but of the juice control as well. I had not yet discovered cotton at the time, or micro coils. Kanthal? What's that? How things change. No, I wouldn't expect a Protank to be a kayfun or Taifun, but a proper coil and wick solves juice issues, gurgling, flooding and leaking, particularly with AFC, and it's relatively easy to rebuild. I still have several devices in my vape drawer. I went from Protanks to carto tanks and found them better, but, again, I had not done rebuilding of proper coils yet. I know today, that I could get most clearos to vape a magnitude better with a specific and nuanced build. May take a bit of experimentation, half the fun, but I could get there. When the hobby bug bites, the impossible and never, becomes easy and now. YouTube and ECF, some wire and cotton......Yummy time. YMMV. Good luck!
What was before the 510? I have been on/off vaping for about 2.5 years but my first device was the 510 manual battery and a 45 ohm atomizer
You can grab the AeroTank base ($5.25) from http://www.everydayecig.com/product-p/kgr-afcv.htm if you want, they have a special ending today.
Coupon: Every20
That will net you %20 off of anything they carry.
Coupon: Every20
That will net you %20 off of anything they carry.
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Just did a 100 proof vodka soak of about 5 EVOD heads and 3 PT3 heads a few nights ago, let them dry, and tonight I'm rebuilding them.
Rebuilt 2 EVODs so far; here is my third one. Had the coil on the far right crimp up on me a teeny bit, but it shouldn't affect it too much. The first one I built is vaping Boba's like a champ. No leaks, no gurgles, but the flavor isn't extraordinary. Don't get me wrong, it's delicious; it's just on par with the stock silica. Maybe it's the real taste of Boba's (since it's so hard to put a finger on). Who knows!
Think I'm going to try my first dual coil build for the PT3 after I'm done with these EVODs.
Then onto the Igo-W and the KF3.1
You're on a roll. Glad to see ya makin the jump over here. Two long threads huh? Have you tried the tension wind yet? I'm giving workshops on the technique and hope to have media coverage soon. It makes a difference in your vape and will hopefully make a difference to vaping. Your wind looks tight.
Good luck. Stick around.
Great find f1ve. Thank you! I hope the wise are listening. I was only able to scarf up 4 of these from my sources so far before everybody ran out. I thought Kanger had gotten serious about competing with the Nautilus. That would mean a serious effort by them to help their users retrofit and make good use of the money they had spent. But maybe that would be asking too much. The supply chain definitely seems, well, dried out.
Good luck.
Great find f1ve. Thank you! I hope the wise are listening. I was only able to scarf up 4 of these from my sources so far before everybody ran out. I thought Kanger had gotten serious about competing with the Nautilus. That would mean a serious effort by them to help their users retrofit and make good use of the money they had spent. But maybe that would be asking too much. The supply chain definitely seems, well, dried out.
Good luck.
bought two for $ 4.99 each from kangertech u.s.a ... still in stock
I am done experimenting with 28 g and 32 g kanthal. I have reached the point of diminishing marginal returns i reckon and i have settled on my favorite set-up given my style of vaping ( longish drags every 15 seconds or so for about five minutes every half hour to forty five minutes). I must have rebuilt three dozen coils using the tensioned contact coil method a la Mac Tech, for use on a protank 1, evod , protank 2, mini protank , aspire, russian 91 % clone ( yeah i know, clone of a clone) , and Patriot clone. I wound these coils on mini screw drivers with a diameter of 1.4, 1.59. 1.8 and 2.0 mm.
For the protanks i settled on a 28 g 11/10 wrap on a 1.8 screw driver yielding a resistance of 1.4 to 1.5 ohms, wicked by cotton, no flavor wicks and no silicone cover on the chimney.
For the aspire heads i rebuilt as a single coil using silica : 28 g kanthal 10/9 2.0 mm 1.4 to 1.5 ohms.
For the true rebuildables i am using twisted 32 1.4 mm or 1.59 mm anywhere from 12/11 to 10/9 with a resistance of 1.2 to 1.6 ( i have not been able to repeat my results because the tightness of the twists vary). I am twisting on the spool and am careful to stop twisting before the wire breaks, so i can wind using the Mac method. I use cotton to wick the patriot and the russian.
With the russian and kayfun clones being cheaper than the nautilus and aerotank, i don't know how much longer i will use my protanks and aspires but i feel i should use them for a while, since i spent so much time building in a confined space and i'm kind of proud of my results, but truth be told, they are noticeably inferior in taste to the russian 91 % even with the aerotank base.
just received a spool of 30 g kanthal from temco and will be experimenting with that in a while, but just can't get myself to throw away a perfectly good 28 g coil ( these suckers are durable , i dry burn, clean with brushpicks, wash with hot water and they are like new ! )
For the protanks i settled on a 28 g 11/10 wrap on a 1.8 screw driver yielding a resistance of 1.4 to 1.5 ohms, wicked by cotton, no flavor wicks and no silicone cover on the chimney.
For the aspire heads i rebuilt as a single coil using silica : 28 g kanthal 10/9 2.0 mm 1.4 to 1.5 ohms.
For the true rebuildables i am using twisted 32 1.4 mm or 1.59 mm anywhere from 12/11 to 10/9 with a resistance of 1.2 to 1.6 ( i have not been able to repeat my results because the tightness of the twists vary). I am twisting on the spool and am careful to stop twisting before the wire breaks, so i can wind using the Mac method. I use cotton to wick the patriot and the russian.
With the russian and kayfun clones being cheaper than the nautilus and aerotank, i don't know how much longer i will use my protanks and aspires but i feel i should use them for a while, since i spent so much time building in a confined space and i'm kind of proud of my results, but truth be told, they are noticeably inferior in taste to the russian 91 % even with the aerotank base.
just received a spool of 30 g kanthal from temco and will be experimenting with that in a while, but just can't get myself to throw away a perfectly good 28 g coil ( these suckers are durable , i dry burn, clean with brushpicks, wash with hot water and they are like new ! )
Thanks for that! A B&M reported they were unable to order on their cart (no stock?). Good to hear. The other earlier linked vendor has a 3-piece limit. Lot's of folks looking for this gear down here in S Fl. And I'm always encouraging retailers to have them on hand. Appreciate the update.
Good luck.
Great job Maz. That you're running through these sequentially is great experience. As I found. I regret I'm focusing on 29g rebuilding to test media and I haven't continued the romp through the gauges. Just starting on 31g. Having slip problems with the grommet sets with the juices I'm using, and have been, as I've dropped the nic level. Skewing pretty regularly when I torque down tanks usually on refills. Frustrating to know how to terminate exactly and not be able to hold it through two resistance checks. I can do it for others but a difficult challenge at home. It's nice to be able to screw in 2, 3 times and get the same number right?
I found 29g probably the most useful wire gauge in clearo's and drippers. More recently some really great results cooling down the vape and making it more uniform and powerful with the applied surface of twisted 32 and 31g in the latter. At some point those winds come back in the opposite direction to the PT's where before the surplus and retired coils were going to the Forge and Nimbus.
It's a wonderful thing Maz. Enjoy, and good luck.
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Great job Maz. That you're running through these sequentially is great experience. As I found. I regret I'm focusing on 29g rebuilding to test media and I haven't continued the romp through the gauges. Just starting on 31g. Having slip problems with the grommet sets with the juices I'm using, and have been, as I've dropped the nic level. Skewing pretty regularly when I torque down tanks usually on refills. Frustrating to know how to terminate exactly and not be able to hold it through two resistance checks. I can do it for others but a difficult challenge at home. It's nice to be able to screw in 2, 3 times and get the same number right?
I found 29g probably the most useful wire gauge in clearo's and drippers. More recently some really great results cooling down the vape and making it more uniform and powerful with the applied surface of twisted 32 and 31g in the latter. At some point those winds come back in the opposite direction to the PT's where before the surplus and retired coils were going to the Forge and Nimbus.
It's a wonderful thing Maz. Enjoy, and good luck.
Thanks Mac, you get most of the credit for me using my kanger products again. I bought a bunch of them and a bunch of Innokin products at the same time from fasttech, and very quickly gave up on them, because of the inferior stock coils. Innokin does a lot better in this regard.
Before i started rebuilding i rated Iclear 30s > Aspire > Iclear 16 >Evod > Protank Mini > Protank > Protank 2 among my clearos, going by the stock coils. After learning to build tension contact coils and placing them properly ( this came later ), the order reversed almost entirely.
I still like to use the Iclear 30s for my naturally extracted tobaccos, but all the rest of my juices,i prefer the protank 2 with the aerotank base. For some reason the mini and evod were less in need of air flow control imo.
Great videos in your tutorial for building the coils, but if you can link to a video for proper placement and vicking of the coil in the pt ( Rip Trippers for example), that would help beginners also. I think it would also be helpful to send the video of your coiling technique to some reviewers with a wide following ( Rip, PBusardo, Grimm Green for example ). Maybe they would adapt it and thus reach a greater audience.
Yeah i was gonna order 29 also, but there is a 4 to 5 week wait at Temco. I will order it after i have found my preferred build with 30.
That's all I want to see is newcomers and veteran users alike get a better vape…right now. From the first time I saw a hand wind and recalled the engineer who showed me a pin vise tension wind decades ago. No reason to struggle in this world.
I believe it most has to do do with the narrowness of the tanks, the air column. Protanks are airy when full, bogged and flooding as the tank empties. Balance that with some airflow and power variability and it can be pretty darn close to a legitimate smoke. And the tank can bring out some rather unique flavor notes from many juices. It's great for tobacco. Particularly chaining at cooler temp's. Something you wish you could have done with an analog, and couldn't (too hot). But it's awfully lacking for the latter when power is applied and flavor is lost unless you have super wicking. I agree. I actually was getting better results with a Mini or even a 3TS before I rolled out tension and the Aero adapter. And btw, I resisted using these solutions as I tried to bring the thread up to speed. Likewise I hadn't built out the vast array of equipment I had accumulated Maz. It was just too much to do (I have 31 mods at the moment) and I couldn't focus on what users might be experiencing with their results. I do like your serious method approach to improving your vape. Congratulations, truly.
It's turned out to be a damned good spec for the Protank. More versatile and rugged than 30 AWG. However the latter at 9-turns on .07" (~1.75-78mm) 4.0V, 8W @ 2.0Ω pretty much defines the optimal center of production for the design. Right smack in the middle of Kanger's 2.2 and 1.8 heads. The 2.4-5 and now 1.5's being the outer boundaries. I'll continue to post validated (3 build confirmations) of both conventional and tension wind results (legs included) to expand the resistance signpost tables and hope others may decide to contribute on this thread. To newcomers having this information is vital to fast-track their quitting and adaptation.
Thank super_X_drifter. He truly is a scholar and a gentleman for seriously taking on tension as a viable alternative to help all vapers. And his support and inspiration for the average user to build solid logical builds helps the entire community. Insofar as the advertisers, they know how to read. And I'm sure they can find this board. If they want to learn they can learn with the rest of us.
However, to break down coil stabilization and geometry, build symmetry, tension, etc. (the premises of the two threads I often mention) requires a team…and certainly more than one or two clips. I urge everyone who succeeds to contribute and help others to understand that inferior electrical winds handicap a build's efficiency and keeps them from a better vape and reliability. Once they start to see after a few winds a 20% or more improvement in electron flow, they get the picture, vividly.
Later today I'm doing a local video spot at a B&M and will begin the process of talking this up. We'll see how this goes on the first outing. Wish me luck. Already done several workshops and am trying to better formalize and cookie-stamp this process. I have no desire to be a public persona with a tension mantra. I'm an avatar. I worked and researched this for six months to pay back this community for being tenacious first adopters and researchers themselves. I'm paying back what I couldn't pay forward. Don't all pile on at one time. I have no sponsors and I am self financed. I do appreciate acknowledgement every once in a while and get it gratefully. There are a heck of a lot of good people and vendors on this forum. That was a huge surprise about this business and industry. Honestly, it started to make me proud to be an American again. That prevalent sense of individualism, ingenuity, entrepreneurship, curiosity and opportunity that pervades this phenomena. Enough now…
Good luck Maz. Enjoy that vape!
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Got mine here: Kanthal A1 Wire 29 Gauge 100 ft 0 5oz Resistance Resistor AWG A 1 | eBay. 100 feet for $7.60 delivered. Quite a good deal, I think.
Bill, you can go directly to TEMCO's industrial supply warehouse where you'll find slightly better prices and complete and well organized tech specs. They are definitely geared up to service this market segment and demonstrably interested in our needs.
Apparently the price surcharge would seem to be eBay's fee. Buy direct.
Good luck all.
Apparently the price surcharge would seem to be eBay's fee. Buy direct.
Good luck all.
Bill, you can go directly to TEMCO's industrial supply warehouse where you'll find slightly better prices and complete and well organized tech specs. They are definitely geared up to service this market segment and demonstrably interested in our needs.
Apparently the price surcharge would seem to be eBay's fee. Buy direct.
Good luck all.
Well, maybe I'm looking in the wrong place, but Temco Direct is $9.87/100lf delivered, versus Temco Ebay which is $7.60/100lf delivered. Additionally, the direct website has a 4-5 week delay, whereas the Ebay Temco ships immediately. From what I can tell, the Temco Ebay is not only cheaper, but considerably faster. I've used them on half a dozen spools, and the service and quality has been excellent.
Here's Temco Direct: Kanthal Wire 29 Gauge RW0170 - 100 Ft 0.5oz Series A-1 Resistance AWG
Here's Temco Ebay: Kanthal A1 Wire 29 Gauge 100 ft 0 5oz Resistance Resistor AWG A 1 | eBay
Check them both out and let me know, because Ebay appears less expensive and available. Just sayin'....
Thanks ! I will order some ... For some reason 29 g is a lot more expensive at Temco than their 30 or 28, and the only one not in stock ! The other gauges have been at my door two to three days after i place the order.
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Yes, but the Kanthal on Ebay for those sizes is much less, as well. Does appear that on some sizes, Ebay is much less. On others, a dime or two more. Probably need to check both sites, depending on gauge. Both sites are Temco Industrial Power. Also, for some reason, some gauges are out of stock at the Temco site, and in-stock at Ebay. Strange.....It is what it is. Best to you!
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