Thank You, that is a good idea. I will read though the link before my next attempt !
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Thank You, that is a good idea. I will read though the link before my next attempt !
Good morning maz. Gettin' ambitious are we? Listen about the most comprehensive exploration of the v.m.c. I've seen is...http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-micro-coil-build-aro-evod-protank-heads.html It's still active and there's a wealth of info on there. Just never had time to explore rad builds for the KPT.
I haven't explored Ni wire. I don't think it has the thermal conductivity that Kanthal has or temp resistance. It has some spalling and decay issues at high temp. Still many swear by it. Maybe someone else is more qualified to comment on this. Don't have any direct experience.
Good luck maz.
Yes i have heard about the decay issues as well, but the point of temperature control is to prevent it ever getting close to that range of temperature.
Because the drill bit I use is 1.5mm diameter the grommet and pin holes are big enough to thread over the drill bit. I will post a few pics in morning for you
True that. And that's certainly what we talk about here. Still, we're only human. Also look at the thermal conductivity comparisons. If we're talking about NiChrome I don't believe it has the thermal transfer top end that Kanthal has. To be clear, it has more potential to convey heat through the oxidation layer is my understanding. Some claim that's so for NiChrome. My understanding is the opposite but I'm no expert on NiChrome because I have not built on it. It's practical experience that ultimately prevails. I've seen a lot of awesome specs in my lifetime for any number of things. Then there's real world.
Good luck Maz.
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I have posted a new thread in the clearomiser section that shows how I have rebuilt my enclosed kanger heads to a verical build and their are some pictures of how I put the gromet and pin back in with the drill bit still in place. Hope it helps
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ed-kanger-dual-coil-single-vertical-coil.html
Leekey"s post made me notice that the Lightning Vape pins have much smaller pinholes than the original Kanger stock. I wasn't able to fit a 1.4 mm screwdriver in the Lightning' pinhole.
I will be trying the vertical with the old pins i suppose.
I will be trying the vertical with the old pins i suppose.
True that. And that's certainly what we talk about here. Still, we're only human. Also look at the thermal conductivity comparisons. If we're talking about NiChrome I don't believe it has the thermal transfer top end that Kanthal has. To be clear, it has more potential to convey heat through the oxidation layer is my understanding. Some claim that's so for NiChrome. My understanding is the opposite but I'm no expert on NiChrome because I have not built on it. It's practical experience that ultimately prevails. I've seen a lot of awesome specs in my lifetime for any number of things. Then there's real world.
Good luck Maz.
Mac, i am talking about Nickel 200 not Nichrome. Nickel 200 alloy is 99 % Nickel. Nichrome 80 by contrast is 80 % Nickel, 20 % Chromium. There is a huge difference in electrical resistance between the two.
Resistance per mm for Nichrome 80 is 0.01346 ohms per mm, per Steam Engine. For Nickel 200 it is 0.00123 . Note the extra zero !
You're definitely right on that one Maz!
If you look closely, the LV PT2 heads as you said have a smaller bore in the pin. The slot in the pin for airflow is also shallower and the chimney bore is also smaller. This is what I found comparing it to original Kanger heads. You may not notice the chimney difference unless you look in the correct end of the Kanger chimney. Kanger has a small hole on the inlet end, but mine have a larger hole on the outlet end. If you look down the larger end, you will see there is a step down towards the inlet end. It very quickly goes from one dia. to another dia.. I am not sure why they would do this, the only thing I can think of would be to create a minor turbulence.
I have not noticed any significant reduction of air flow though due to LV's head dimensioning.
Thanks Maz, I thought it was just me!
Vape On My Friends!
So My Friends,
It would seem that most of us that have been here for a while are capable of a proper coil build or soon will be. Which brings me to this post.
I have been doing my coils for a while now although not properly in the beginning. I have used silica, then organic cotton, then rayon. I'm still not 100% sold on rayon though.
Another thing that can effect flavor is the PG/VG ratio that we use. There are vendors that seem to use a proprietary blend where you have no choice, places like Halo, Bionic Vapor and Nicoticket are a few.
So what are your choices and why? Just curiosity getting the best of me I guess. It's always good to hear what people prefer.
I personally was using Halo e-juice exclusively and was really getting bored, my guess is maybe an 80/20 pg/vg. I decided to make a drastic change and ordered some juice from 3 or 4 different place and went to a 50/50 mix or whatever the proprietary blend was. I'm still working on opinions of that move. The vape density is definitely much more dense and that's all I can attest to so far.
As many here I'm still learning as many here are. Opinions are a great start, so what are yours?
A Cigarette Tobacco Flavor Chaser, from what I've read - I'm told PG is the Flavor Carrier and VG is the Vapor engine. As I try to select my coil rebuilding supplies, the choice & size of wick material seems daunting. Unlike grabbing a fresh cigarette out of a pack and just smoking. So I have my Kanthal A-1 Awg30 sitting in the proverbial "Basket" awaiting its accompanying wick 1mm 1.5mm 2mm 2.5mm 3mm, ekowool, hollow, or hollow with cotton core, silica, boiled cotton,Japanese cotton, ceramic, etc, etc... & I don't even vape out of a fancy metal cup. I don't even want to float on a cloud like cupid, good old MPT2, PT2, iClear30BDC, Aspire K1. E-liquid Generic 70/30 PG/VG (BTW I don't see how folks complain of insufficient vapor) and that's up for re-ratio -ing when the PG, VG, & Flavors arrive to experiment.
I like the taste of tobacco and enjoyed smoking this is why I vape now. What I was referring to as daunting is sifting through tons of hype & chatter for the mechanics behind good a tasting vape. TG i can read & enjoy technical reads
Long story short on from a generic topper side:
Good taste is a heat formula or equation if you will w/ adjustable variables to allow for subjective tastes. All sides must be balanced.
Balance between, wick absorbance - minus material taste interference, heat tolerance; just enough coil wire heat for a light warm but not wet taste. Not so much heat as to produce hardware oxidation or burn my lips off
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By the way, the Provari P3 was just released today. Got word from Cloud 9 (UK). Will probably wait to see who in U.S. has it first. Sorry, off-topic. I will be buying one this week from somebody!
If anyone knows a good U.S. Vendor, kindly let me know!
Hey Fstop,
First off, Good to See You Here and Welcome!
Well, here are some opinions!
Right now, regarding coil I.D. I put as large of a coil that will fit in to the base slots without modification. I'm currently using after market heads from Lightning Vapes, the largest drill bit that will fit in mine is .073. That is only slightly under 2mm.
I do use 30 gauge kanthal, and personally I don't think you would need larger than that to get the best flavor and vapor. I've played with 34g and 28g and found no substantial gain. For me 30 is the best to work with for these builds, regardless of pg/vg ratio.
Wicking media to me is a personal preference. I have not ever played with ekowool so I can't speak truthfully about it. I have used silica, organic cotton, rayon and KGD (Japanese cotton). Out of those I prefer KGD way over the others, flavor, vapor, wicking ability and ease of use is superb in all ways. Next test will be X-wick (ceramic).
Your take on pg and vg is correct. Pg is the flavor carrier and Vg will create larger clouds. What you will find though is that some e-juice vendors have a somewhat proprietary blend. This means the mix is made to there own specs regarding ratio. Some add more flavor to compensate for higher vg orders because vg does have a tendency to mute flavors some. Currently most of my juices are a 50/50 blend, not because I order them that way but because the vendor decides it gives them the best result all around. Honestly I believe this is something you will determine as time goes on and you decide what is best for you.
We are all here to help my friend, so enjoy!
Vape On My Friends!
PS - Regarding coil resistance, I believe you will find your sweet spot in the 1.5 through 2.0 ohm range. I very much recommend checking out Steam Engine to get the basics regarding the number of wraps on what diameter tool to achieve what resistance.
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By the way, the Provari P3 was just released today. Got word from Cloud 9 (UK). Will probably wait to see who in U.S. has it first. Sorry, off-topic. I will be buying one this week from somebody!
If anyone knows a good U.S. Vendor, kindly let me know!
I'm very curious about the price for this one!!
This is precisely what I have been searching this entire discussion for.... same question - coil diameter needed to fit coil head and accommodate the wick material size, ie. ekowool 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm and how it affects the ohm rating ????You just love confusing the H..L out of me don't you!
Thanks Mac, you da man!
I'm not understanding coil building to accommodate wicking media though?
Safe bet, 30ga Kanthal on either a 1/16" or 5/64" drill bit. I just use cotton for the wicks, and don't worry about the diameter just whether there's enough or not. I use 32ga, and there's no difference in resistance for me if I wrap the same number on either size bit. 30ga may vary but probably not..
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Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk
My favourite and easiest build on my protanks was 8 wraps of 30g kanthal on 1/16" drill bit. Cotton wick, no flavour wick. Fire at 13W and I figure that's about as good as it gets out of a protank.
If I'm feeling more adventurous I'll do the rip tripper's 12 wraps of 28g kanthal on a sewing pin, thin cotton wick and thin strip on top as flavour wick. Not worth the effort IMO. I don't think it's any better than 30g on 1/16, and it's tricky to get it all in there without shorting.
If I'm feeling more adventurous I'll do the rip tripper's 12 wraps of 28g kanthal on a sewing pin, thin cotton wick and thin strip on top as flavour wick. Not worth the effort IMO. I don't think it's any better than 30g on 1/16, and it's tricky to get it all in there without shorting.
That would definitely be a good start. But it only begins to touch on what a Protank is capable of gb. With a few simple inexpensive tools and about a quarter of the time you spend in a regular build you're in Kayfun+ territory. Think there's been about 2000 posts devoted to the subject. But a picture is worth a billion words…
Good luck and tap us on the shoulder if you'd like to saddle up.
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The coil diameter is only regulated by the width of the slot.
You can run a 1/16 I. D. build (smaller than the slot) or whatever the width of the slot will allow. As I mentioned before, my current max. is. 073.
Your wick media needs to accommodate that dia. and have sufficient coil contact to provide efficient use.
The theory is to have contact with the coil throughout the length, not too tight, not too loose. The technique will develop over time, believe me I know.
Right now, the easiest media has been KGD. You pull it in with a slight resistance, trim it and it works.
Please, understand that these are personal opinions. I have been testing and playing for months and this is what works best for me.
Everyone has opinions here and none of them are wrong. Flavor and vapor are very subjective, to each their own.
We can teach you to build a perfect coil and express our personal thoughts on wick media, but when it comes down to it....... It's up to you and your personal tastes!
We are here to help!
Vape On My Friends!
From A Galaxy Far Away
Using Tapatalk Pro
Fstop the optimal build for a PT to accommodate the greatest output requires the widest highway for vapor production. That's sayin', more wick>more juice>more vapor. The maximimum bit width (coil diameter) you can get into the slots is 1.778mm (or .07", #50 wire gauge), a common bit diameter. This will let you accommodate cotton or my recommendation, Nextel XC-132, a remarkable synthetic that will let you go quite a while without rewicking. It's pricey at 7-8/ft but that could literally last you months along with the coils themselves which recycle.
I prefer KGD organic Japanese cotton but need to rewick every day or so. Ekowool wood be another alternative but it's quite difficult to feed. Would be easiest to get the tools and either 29 or 30 AWG. The first gives you just a tad more coverage area on the wick, the latter fires a little faster. I like 'em both but the first tends to terminate a bit more solidly if you reuse factory coils to start.
You'll need a pin vise and drill bits or drill blanks in the above size (good to have a backup, you'll be using pairs for other builds). Yeah, you can double these up very nicely. You'll need to be mindful of the slot as you want to localize the coil while still on the bit at the bottom of the slot. Terminating the leads in a balanced way and taught will result in the most short free and stable vape experience you can get on a Protank. Without it your vape may seem good but likely short lived.
Advance search some of these terms on this thread and you will get an abundance of leads and specific advice on each of these aspects. Hail us on this thread and you'll get all the help and explanation you may require.
Good luck all.
p.s. BTW, Johnson Creek Tennessee Cured is a pure VG tobacco and one of the most popular consumer juices in vapedom. It is far from lacking flavor. I use it as a baseline comparison product to test against every other variety I can reasonably acquire. Blends I use for this purpose are some of the most popular juices I share at user group meet ups, vapestore buildouts, training groups and other ad hoc meet ups I participate in. I'm not endorsing the product, maker or suggesting it should be your fav. It's the starting point after months of testing RY4's, natural tobacco, etc. that I settled on as the most consistent reliable experience. I now test it by blending with others to emulate the products of other makers, using it as a sort of RY4 base along with Nextel wick. I seldom vape it out of the bottle anymore these days but started at 18mg using Nextel. I don't believe it's ever been successfully cloned, to my frustration, lol. A reasonable facsimile might be possible if you're a tobacco love like me. And I use RY4 Double and Nude Nic (very clean distilled NET) as a starting base with some simple add ons to get there. Oh yeah, you came to the right place. We have a lot of bright people here with keen insights.
TO YOURSELF BE KIND…DO NOT HAND WIND.
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My vote goes to 29 awg 10 wraps. 30 awg 8 wraps is my second option.
I am lucky to have a few coils that will accommodate a 2mm ( 5/64) build, but otherwise yeah like Mac said .07 inch is the way to go. Never tried Nextel, but i have tried most of the other wicking media out there and KGD performs best for me. I don't mind changing the wick after every tank. I wash the tank and change the juice anyway.
I am lucky to have a few coils that will accommodate a 2mm ( 5/64) build, but otherwise yeah like Mac said .07 inch is the way to go. Never tried Nextel, but i have tried most of the other wicking media out there and KGD performs best for me. I don't mind changing the wick after every tank. I wash the tank and change the juice anyway.
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