Provari fire button- is it me?

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eda123

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Hi guys,

A few weeks w/ my first Provari- love it love it love it.

One question is on the fire button. I find that i have to directly press it, straight down, fairly firmly. This causes me to have firing "issues" at least for my pressure- if i slightly roll my finger to the side of the button while its firing, it goes out.

Since the button has a very "squishy" feel (which i like), i find its easy to press down, but easy to get it not to fire as well since its contact point seems to be a very precise one for such a forgiving tactile push on the button.

Is it me? Or my provari? If this is how its expected to operate, no problem. Just trying to figure out if this is NOT expected and should be looked at by them under warranty.

Thanks!
Bill
 
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The Ocelot

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You nailed it. The Blessed One is very picky about her button. :) I am currently working on a new translation of the Sacred Text of Manual, and I recently wrote this:

Thou shalt press the firing button firmly in the center and not become distracted, allowing one’s finger or thumb to slip down the side of the button. The Blessed One requires commitment and shall smite thee for inattention by cutting out mid-drag.


Joking aside, there are a few other mods that are similar in how the button needs to be pressed. I'm sure someone with more advanced technical knowledge (and likely not paws) will come along and explain why the button is that way (I've read it, but I don't remember clearly enough to post like I know something).

I keep mine in sleeves, which might make a difference, but anyway... I hope this makes sense... I hold the 'Vari in my fist, like picking up a beer bottle and my thumb is horizontal across the button; the button is right on the edge of the joint. I don't actually push the firing button, I squeeze my fist. Since my thumb is across the button, there's no way for it to slide off.

This is probably of no help at all, since we all vape whatever way is comfortable, but it's the ProVari, not you.
 
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The Ocelot

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I'm glad you're okay with it. I really did already write that commandment, you aren't the only person who has commentated about it. Another one (that I have yet to blasphemize) is if you are in Pu or Pd and hit the firing button too fast, the voltage will continue to change. You have to let the screen go dark, so the level is set, before you vape. It seems simple enough, but some people really speed vape and have complained.
 

dreamreaper

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I'm glad you're okay with it. I really did already write that commandment, you aren't the only person who has commentated about it. Another one (that I have yet to blasphemize) is if you are in Pu or Pd and hit the firing button too fast, the voltage will continue to change. You have to let the screen go dark, so the level is set, before you vape. It seems simple enough, but some people really speed vape and have complained.

I managed to do that once by accident, needless to say the vape at 5.4v wasnt to good!!! :D
 

DaveP

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On a Provari, the fire button contacts a switch on the main circuit board. Frequently, the board itself becomes loose in the channel it's mounted into. That allows play on the board and the switch, requiring more travel of the fire button to actuate. The board is supposed to be held in place by silicone or some sort of glue so that it doesn't rock back and forth.

Take the battery out and stick your finger up into the tube until you feel the contact on the bottom of the board. If you can feel it wiggle when you move it back and forth with a finger, it's loose and that creates excessive over-travel of the switch, making you have to press the button in too far to make contact. IMO, they all exhibit this problem to some extent.

Press straight in on the fire button with whatever bony part of your finger will accomplish that. The fleshy part of your finger might not do the job.

Provari is a well made mod for the most part. The loose board is its chief shortcoming. You might also notice that once the board is loose the display begins to shift left and the digits are shifted left of center. The switch bounce also puts you into the menu when you didn't want to be. A resistor/capacitor combination across the switch contacts would absorb the noise and stop that.
 
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The Ocelot

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I managed to do that once by accident, needless to say the vape at 5.4v wasnt to good!!! :D

One thing I really dislike about my Vamo is how easy close the adjust buttons are to the firing button. My fingers aren't that big, but I have to pay attention not to accidentally press the adjust and firing buttons at the same time. They are also very easy to press. I tend to rest my mods in my lap in-between vapes and I didn't realize I had put the Vamo down with it's buttons resting against the arm of the chair. It's own weight was enough to activate the adjust buttons and when I took a vape, Yikes! It was up to about 14 watts!
 

The Ocelot

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On a Provari, the fire button contacts a switch on the main circuit board. Frequently, the board itself becomes loose in the channel its mounted into. That allows play on the board and the switch, requiring more travel of the fire button to actuate. The board is supposed to be held in place by silicone or some sort of glue so that it doesn't rock back and forth.

Take the battery out and stick your finger up into the tube until you feel the contact on the bottom of the board. If you can feel it wiggle when you move it back and forth with a finger, it's loose and that creates excessive overtravel of the switch, making you have to press the button in too far to make contact. IMO, they all exhibit this problem to some extent.

Press straight in with whatever bony part of your finger will accomplish that. The fleshy part of your finger might not do the job.

Provari is a well made mod for the most part. The loose board is its chief shortcoming.

I know that people have had problems with loose boards recently, but what I'm referring to is the way the button needs to be pressed in general. I have a hard time believing all of my ProVaris have loose boards.
 

Spazmelda

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I began having problems with my firing button (skipping menu steps, putting me into menu mode without knowing it, not firing with button pressing techniques that had worked previously). Many suggested that the contacts inside were dirty and I should clean it with isoprop. I tried that a few times and the problem persisted.

I finally did send it back to provape and they ended up replacing the circuit board (no cost btw, even though my Provari was out of warranty). Now it works like its supposed to again. I'm not sure what exactly was wrong with it, if it was cracked or loose, or something else. Anyway, the state of the circuit board is something to consider. It can definitely cause button issues.
 

Kycap

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I began having problems with my firing button (skipping menu steps, putting me into menu mode without knowing it, not firing with button pressing techniques that had worked previously). Many suggested that the contacts inside were dirty and I should clean it with isoprop. I tried that a few times and the problem persisted.

I finally did send it back to provape and they ended up replacing the circuit board (no cost btw, even though my Provari was out of warranty). Now it works like its supposed to again. I'm not sure what exactly was wrong with it, if it was cracked or loose, or something else. Anyway, the state of the circuit board is something to consider. It can definitely cause button issues.

I had the same problem with my Provari, intermittent misfires then nothing at all, had to send back to Provape who returned it in 8 days, but I had a hell of a game with UK customs who kept it for 3 weeks asking various questions - got it back eventually and everything is ok.
 

robo74

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Had a Mini with that loose board issue. They fixed it, no issues. Sold the mini so I could buy another full size. Purchased one on cyber Monday, and now it has the loose board issue. It will be going in soon.

Rob




On a Provari, the fire button contacts a switch on the main circuit board. Frequently, the board itself becomes loose in the channel it's mounted into. That allows play on the board and the switch, requiring more travel of the fire button to actuate. The board is supposed to be held in place by silicone or some sort of glue so that it doesn't rock back and forth.

Take the battery out and stick your finger up into the tube until you feel the contact on the bottom of the board. If you can feel it wiggle when you move it back and forth with a finger, it's loose and that creates excessive over-travel of the switch, making you have to press the button in too far to make contact. IMO, they all exhibit this problem to some extent.

Press straight in on the fire button with whatever bony part of your finger will accomplish that. The fleshy part of your finger might not do the job.

Provari is a well made mod for the most part. The loose board is its chief shortcoming. You might also notice that once the board is loose the display begins to shift left and the digits are shifted left of center. The switch bounce also puts you into the menu when you didn't want to be. A resistor/capacitor combination across the switch contacts would absorb the noise and stop that.
 

PLANofMAN

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On a Provari, the fire button contacts a switch on the main circuit board. Frequently, the board itself becomes loose in the channel it's mounted into. That allows play on the board and the switch, requiring more travel of the fire button to actuate. The board is supposed to be held in place by silicone or some sort of glue so that it doesn't rock back and forth.

Take the battery out and stick your finger up into the tube until you feel the contact on the bottom of the board. If you can feel it wiggle when you move it back and forth with a finger, it's loose and that creates excessive over-travel of the switch, making you have to press the button in too far to make contact. IMO, they all exhibit this problem to some extent.

Press straight in on the fire button with whatever bony part of your finger will accomplish that. The fleshy part of your finger might not do the job.

Provari is a well made mod for the most part. The loose board is its chief shortcoming. You might also notice that once the board is loose the display begins to shift left and the digits are shifted left of center. The switch bounce also puts you into the menu when you didn't want to be. A resistor/capacitor combination across the switch contacts would absorb the noise and stop that.
Mine doesn't move at all, not even a little bit (V1 owner). I didn't even realize this could happen to a ProVari.
 

DaveP

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Mine doesn't move at all, not even a little bit (V1 owner). I didn't even realize this could happen to a ProVari.

When you have to insert a flat circuit board into a round tube, the easiest way is to design a slot for it to slide into. It's a good design, but they used the cement sparingly. Maybe it was just supposed to press fit into place. Many have taken the board out and used silicone seal to secure theirs. One drop on the atomizer end can dislodge the board. An 18650 battery doesn't like to stop suddenly and wants to keep going in a drop condition. If the battery end hits first, the battery compresses the spring and is launched upward into the board. Something has to give. :) Surprisingly, they are tough mods and keep on ticking through lots of rough handling.

Mine is covered through next May under the 2 year warranty (paid $24.95 additional). After the Christmas rush mine is going in for a tune-up. Provape is noted for their excellent service and quick return.

Now, if they would just come out with a VV/VW mod at a reasonable price ...
 
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DaveP

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so if the board is loose when i get it, i can just send it back?

I expect they would honor that as a defect, especially if the display is off center. Slight lateral movement may be normal. If it's shifted toward the atomizer end and the display isn't centered, I'd consider that a defect. Mine had the problem where a switch press would occasionally send me into the menu when I got it. Shortly afterwards, I could feel slight movement inside when I pressed the fire button and it felt like it went too far in when I pressed. Service told me that they all press flush with the tube. They offered to create a service ticket, but it didn't cause an issue, so I didn't send it back at that time. It's been a year and a half and it has worked reliably, but now I'm planning to send it in for repair before my warranty expires.
 

Ozwald

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sandman, if your board is loose, I'm very sure they will take it back, you just bought it:). But I'd also be willing to wager your board isn't loose either. This is the first time I've even heard of such a thing being possible.:blink:

I've heard it's possible, just extremely unlikely.
 

DaveP

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sandman, if your board is loose, I'm very sure they will take it back, you just bought it:). But I'd also be willing to wager your board isn't loose either. This is the first time I've even heard of such a thing being possible.:blink:

They aren't actually loose, they are just able to move back and forth in the slots molded or machined into the tube on each side. I think they apply cement of some sort or silicone sealant when they slide the board into the slots. If that works loose, it can cause the board to move back and forth a half a millimeter when you press the fire button. Remove the battery and look up into the cavity and you will see that the board is mounted in two slots, one on each side.

I have one battery that moves back and forth when I press the fire button when it happens to be in my Provari. The positive contact on the battery is moving back and forth with the board contact as I press the fire button and the board shifts a little..
 
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