Provari fire button- is it me?

[The Ocelot]

I wonder if we should keep track of when people bought the ones with the boards coming loose and if they are all minis to see if it roughly corresponds to a specific time frame or run. My 2.0 mini is almost a year old and my first 2.5 mini is going on 10 months. I haven't had trouble with either of them, but I'm going to start using the bronze I got on Cyber Monday exclusively to see if an issue comes up.

 

[Susan W.]

The mini I bought on Cyber Monday is fine. The board seems pretty secure. I've been using it every evening since I got it.

 

[EvilZoe]

I bought two of my Minis used and have no idea how old they are. No loose boards on any of mine, though.

 

[James15]

I got my mini on Nov. 15th and I use it as it's the only thing to vape off of..all day and I have no loose boards

 

[glassgal]

I bought my first one used, 2.0, and it's at least a year old if not older (judging by the painted on Provari logo). No problems, no looseness at all, and I got it slightly beat up, and I beat it up too and drop it on granite and concrete pretty regularly.

My mini was bought brand new, a couple months old now, no problems at all either. I'm pretty hard on my toys... these are really tough.

 

[BernieVideo]

As I see it, it's a loose nut behind the wheel.

Yup.




Tapatalking with my thumbs.
Join the CASAA.
Protect your vaping Rights!

 

[BadTrainDriver]

I'm pretty hard on my toys...

This made me laugh!

 

[StormFinch]

Although I definitely have a screw loose, my Cyber Monday Provari is fine.

 

[glassgal]

This made me laugh!

 

[MrOcelot]

I got my mini on cyber Monday. Seems okay except once in a while it will cut out early at like 7 seconds. But it only happens on my protank. Gonna watch it for a bit.

 

[robo74]

My cyber Monday purchase is a Full Size Zombie.. Loose board for sure. My late October purchase (full size black) is solid as can be.
The mini black that I purchased used had a loose board. No loose screws or nuts here. poop happens.
I am very confident they will fix.

Rob

 

[DaveP]

In spite of the loose board and the inadvertent menu entry, my Provari hasn't missed a lick since 2012 when it was born. My old eGos have worn out threads and missing paint. The Provari looks as good as it ever did and the threads are still tight and smooth.

It's like an old Mercedes vs any old American vehicle ... quality parts and workmanship lead to longevity.

 

[Just Me]

Bought mine in August. Within the first couple of weeks, I noticed the button cutting off prematurely, like within the first two seconds. It only did it occasionally, and I didn't want to send it in and have to deal with my egos again. I got a SID for a backup and have been using that for a couple of weeks now. The circuit board in the Provari doesn't seem loose, though, so when I get back to using it again, I'll make sure I don't press the button sideways just to see if that fixes the issue. I bought an extra year warranty, so I have plenty of time to send it back if necessary. Thanks for the post, glad to know I'm not the only one with that problem.

 

[Xcighippy]

One thing is to make sure you only use AW battery's. I had this same problem of the circuit board moving. The folks at Provape told me AW battery's are the only ones to use. I was using efest and they are slightly longer. These batt's will push the circuit board deeper into the tube causing looseness and contact issues.
There are two spots of hot melt glue at the top corners of the circuit board holding it in. These glue spots are easy to break loose from a drop or in my case using the wrong battery's. Provape gave me a claim number to send it in for repairs, but me being the type who likes to take things apart, decided to try repaired myself. Watched a couple Utube videos of Provari disassembly and went for it. I removed the hot melt glue spots that weren't holding anything anyways and after some carefull measurements made a small shim from a piece of hard foam about .040" to fit between the top of the circuit board and the head. Pressed it back together and now my button is directly centered over the board button. Has been working now since July without a problem. Even after a fall from my motorcycle at about 30mph! I have a post about this somewhere.
I am not recomending you try this at home. I can say the folks at Provape strongly advised against doing a repair myself. I mainly wanted to point out the battery issue.

 

[DaveP]

One thing is to make sure you only use AW battery's. I had this same problem of the circuit board moving. The folks at Provape told me AW battery's are the only ones to use. I was using efest and they are slightly longer. These batt's will push the circuit board deeper into the tube causing looseness and contact issues.
There are two spots of hot melt glue at the top corners of the circuit board holding it in. These glue spots are easy to break loose from a drop or in my case using the wrong battery's. Provape gave me a claim number to send it in for repairs, but me being the type who likes to take things apart, decided to try repaired myself. Watched a couple Utube videos of Provari disassembly and went for it. I removed the hot melt glue spots that weren't holding anything anyways and after some carefull measurements made a small shim from a piece of hard foam about .040" to fit between the top of the circuit board and the head. Pressed it back together and now my button is directly centered over the board button. Has been working now since July without a problem. Even after a fall from my motorcycle at about 30mph! I have a post about this somewhere.
I am not recomending you try this at home. I can say the folks at Provape strongly advised against doing a repair myself. I mainly wanted to point out the battery issue.

Mine has a very thin nitrile o-ring that I inserted above the board that prevent movement. It closes the gap between the board and the top cap nicely. I'll take it out before sending it in for Provape service prior to the end of my 2nd year warranty.

 

[Xcighippy]

Mine has a very thin nitrile o-ring that I inserted above the board that prevent movement. It closes the gap between the board and the top cap nicely. I'll take it out before sending it in for Provape service prior to the end of my 2nd year warranty.

Ah I see you know exactly what I'm talking about Dave. I have posted this before when the subject of moving circuit boards come up and the response I usually get is along the lines of, "Take it apart!? Are you crazy?.only magicians authorized to work on those should attempt that!" ..Ok I exaggerate a little. But you know what I mean.
I like the O ring idea, Wish I had thought of that when I had mine open.

 

[DaveP]

Ah I see you know exactly what I'm talking about Dave. I have posted this before when the subject of moving circuit boards come up and the response I usually get is along the lines of, "Take it apart!? Are you crazy?.only magicians authorized to work on those should attempt that!" ..Ok I exaggerate a little. But you know what I mean.
I like the O ring idea, Wish I had thought of that when I had mine open.

I just happened to have a boxed assortment of nitrile o-rings from Harbor Freight. One was the perfect size. The cap pops off from the battery end using a long thin punch very carefully. One wrong move and the circuit board is junk, though. There are wires from the board to the atomizer socket and you don't want to touch the board's surface mounted components with the tools.