I rounded up.....I guess when youre strapped for cash you automatically round down hmm?
Keep buying disposable products and you'll never have any money.....or anything to show for your trouble either except a full trash can.
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I rounded up.....I guess when youre strapped for cash you automatically round down hmm?
Keep buying disposable products and you'll never have any money.....or anything to show for your trouble either except a full trash can.
I'm going through a mid life crisis...I better run out and buy a sports car, get a hot young chick, and of course, pick up a Provari...lol 
Just joking with y'all...I'm a relative noob, just wading through the vaping world, PV, to PV, and learning along the way....chances are that I'll likely have a Provari at some point...along with just about everything else thats out there to be had...
Just joking with y'all...I'm a relative noob, just wading through the vaping world, PV, to PV, and learning along the way....chances are that I'll likely have a Provari at some point...along with just about everything else thats out there to be had...
I just can't believe this thread is still so active...........................Get whatever you want to. Drop it at that........................
I just can't believe this thread is still so active...........................Get whatever you want to. Drop it at that........................
Reminds me of discussions on motorcycle forums....ride what you like and can reasonably afford and care less what anyone else thinks or says...
every time i bought i would buy at least 3 cartons,considering it is 20 miles one way ,plus where i work the little supply store didn't carry my brand and i would be at work for 3-7 weeks straight ,1000 miles from the nearest civilian type store
dependability and reliability are the primary choices for buying mods for me ,
I've only seen this mentioned ONCE in this mess.
All of you, expose your coils on ANYTHING that has them. You see how fast/slow a coil heats? You think that analog coil can respond in a digital sense? It would look like a strobe light. Oh, it looks the same on every device?
Sure the vape from a 3 digit purchase is going to feel better to you.
Thermodynamics ladies. The coil can only heat and cool the same way in a seconds time.
Strobe-light. Not a nice steady glow.
It's simple, but not for some!
The Provari's advantages that have the real bearing is the rock solid warranty, you can't beat that.
And, it's good to buy American if you live in America.
Whatever keeps you off of the real thing though.
All of you, expose your coils on ANYTHING that has them. You see how fast/slow a coil heats? You think that analog coil can respond in a digital sense? It would look like a strobe light. Oh, it looks the same on every device?
Sure the vape from a 3 digit purchase is going to feel better to you.
Thermodynamics ladies. The coil can only heat and cool the same way in a seconds time.
Strobe-light. Not a nice steady glow.
It's simple, but not for some!
The Provari's advantages that have the real bearing is the rock solid warranty, you can't beat that.
And, it's good to buy American if you live in America.
Whatever keeps you off of the real thing though.
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Until you vape both devices side by side you can babble all you want. But you do not know what you're talking about.
Vape off a Provari and then any 33 Hz PWM device. There IS a difference. And next year? Your Vamo will be worth $10.00
The Provari will still be worth 90% of its cost. There's a reason. One is junk and one is not.
I have both. And lots more Chinese VV or VV/Vw mods...and mech mods
When you have them all you can compare, and you have practical experience to back up your talking points.
that guy is one of about 4-5 that have never seen,let alone held a provari ,yet they still come into provari threads spouting their anti-pro B__S__
My grandmother had a great saying:
It doesnt cost THAT much more to go first class the first time around.
I have $500 in cheap chinese stuff sitting in a box Ill never use again. (unless my ProV goes in for service)
When I get a ProV mini to add along, I will never use the old stuff again. Ill pass it along to help someone else.
Here is my own personal road:
several one use throw aways (like the blu)
Njoy cigalike
Apollo VV ego (all different type of clearos to go with it) (went through 2)
Vamo (finally first DCT) (went through 2)
ProV (added drip attys and ZAP)
Wish someone had pointed me to the ProV and DCT at least to begin with. Would have saved me loads. I guess its really hard to see the value when your just starting up. All I can say is Im happy where I am now.
It doesnt cost THAT much more to go first class the first time around.
I have $500 in cheap chinese stuff sitting in a box Ill never use again. (unless my ProV goes in for service)
When I get a ProV mini to add along, I will never use the old stuff again. Ill pass it along to help someone else.
Here is my own personal road:
several one use throw aways (like the blu)
Njoy cigalike
Apollo VV ego (all different type of clearos to go with it) (went through 2)
Vamo (finally first DCT) (went through 2)
ProV (added drip attys and ZAP)
Wish someone had pointed me to the ProV and DCT at least to begin with. Would have saved me loads. I guess its really hard to see the value when your just starting up. All I can say is Im happy where I am now.
It's true. We live in a world now where everything is essentially "disposable", especially when it comes to things like electronics. Just look at TVs. 30 years ago, TVs cost more than they do now. If you were buying one, most people went to a specialty store to get it. They were more concerned about the brand name and where they could take it to be repaired than they were about the cost. Heck, there used to be these things called "TV repair shops". If taken good care of, one would essentially last forever. Now, you can go and buy a 42" HD No Name brand for $299. It'll last about 2 years if your lucky, die, and you'll throw it out and buy a new one.
What ProVape offers is kind of a throwback to the days when people saved up to buy that TV they really wanted because it came with a great reputation and warranty, and they could take it to the guy that they bought it from to be repaired if anything ever happened to it.
"It doesn't cost that much more to go first class the first time around" ---- Makes a lot of sense to me, now.
A watt is a watt is a watt unless I missed something in that class
A watt is a watt is a watt unless I missed something in that class
True.. but it varies by wire diameter. It takes more watts to heat a larger gauge wire to the same temperature as a smaller wire. Not that it applies to this thread.. just sayin
Okay, i just finished reading this thread in its entirety, (could have skipped over about 90 % as being irrelevant). one thing that has not been mentioned in this thread is: the higher voltage spike on the 30 hz pulse would make it more difficult to insulate against shorts on a SS wick, or a close wound coil due to the fact that it is higher voltage, and also the square wave pulse adds an inductive kick.
i have read on other threads that the pwm devices are more difficult to set up a SS wick without hotspots due to this.
(notice : no brand names where harmed in the making of this post )
i have read on other threads that the pwm devices are more difficult to set up a SS wick without hotspots due to this.
(notice : no brand names where harmed in the making of this post
)also i would like to note: i am not yet a proud owner of a provari, but i plan to be shortly, as presently i only have my evic and a ecab as it's backup.
my evic does something i find very irritating, when the battery power gets down to around 50 % i notice a drop off in vapour production, even though it is saying it is still putting out the same power. I suspect this is due the PWM chip having to change over from from voltage reducing to voltage increasing from what the battery is actually at.
my evic does something i find very irritating, when the battery power gets down to around 50 % i notice a drop off in vapour production, even though it is saying it is still putting out the same power. I suspect this is due the PWM chip having to change over from from voltage reducing to voltage increasing from what the battery is actually at.
^^^^^^^^^
||||||||||||||||. THIS
I noticed the same thing with my VAMOs and SVDs. Once the battery dropped down to around 3.6v (under load), the degradation in vape quality was noticeable. I was constantly swapping batteries at only 50%. My ProVaris vape the same until they die around 3.3v
I've noticed the same thing on my SVD. Must be something to do with the Chinese chip set.
KY_Rob said:
You guys nailed it!
No one else has Provape's patented AccuSet Technology chip set. Hense the "set it and forget it" slogan. You wouldn't know when to change the battery if it weren't for the blinking fire button, as there is no drop in vape quality as the battery drains."Our variable voltage ecig has a regulated output which keeps your selected voltage the same with each puff regardless of your remaining battery power.
As the battery drains, the ProVari ecig will keep the voltage consistent giving you the perfect vapor throughout the day.
ProVari with AccuSet™ technology - Our built-in dynamic self-calibration algorithm keeps the output voltage accurate to 1% or better over the life of the product. The ProVari will constantly monitor and adjust itself to ensure you always get accurate voltage settings. Now a ProVari owner can tell another ProVari owner to try a certain voltage setting with their favorite brand and flavor of e-liquid and the flavor experience can be shared. Every device will autotune itself so it's always precise!"
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This will be a long post. But, if you want to learn something by the end I promise you it will be worth it. So sit back and
I've seen a few post talking about how lights and coils react to PWM, most of it is wrong. A light bulb and a heating coil are essentialy the same thing. They both operate under the principal of converting energy to heat, this then causes the coil to glow giving off light. The only real difference between the two is intended use. PWM has been used to control the brightness of a light bulb for a longtime now, and probably has been known about even longer.
However, watching a light bulb controlled by PWM and how it is behaving to the PWM are two different things. If you take two of the same buld/coils, one has a constant feed of 60w, the other has a 50% duty cycle feeding it 120w they will appear to give off the same amount of light. In fact, the total measurement of lumens produced will be the same. Whats happening is that both bulbs produce the same measured amount of light/heat and use the same amount of total power. The 120w bulb is producing twice the amount of light/heat during it's on cycle and measured amounts average out at 60w. 120w on 50% / 0w off 50% vs just plain 60w.
The reason this is invalid is because it is missing one variable in this argument... Human perception.
Constant vision allows us to average out our visiual input. Our brains can even fill in the blanks when necessary. You do not see a bulb flickering on and off twice as bright as another. Our brain averages out the visual input by filling in the darkness with 50% of the on cycles total light output. The other 50% of the total light is seen as the bulbs on cycle. The end result is they look the same to us. However, the 120w bulb is producing twice the amount of heat/light during its on cycle.
If this is done too slow we can see the light turn off and back on. All of this must happen fast enough for our brains to be able to do this at a certain number of hz, or times per second. Here is the real kicker to this, that number is... approximately 30hz. That 33.3hz number did not come out of the blue during design, it is there for a reason. It is just on the other side of 30hz so we can not see the heating coil visibly flicker.
So now the real problem is... The PWM coil is heating up hotter in the same amount of given time because it is being pushed harder. The problem is not averaging out heat it is the transfer of heat to the eliquid and that this process happens so fast the eliquid never gets a chance to coil to ambient temperature. Over a measured amount of time the juice with end up hotter then with a flat signal output. During this time the tempt of the juice is also going to fluctuate as the heating coil changes between the on and off state..... THIS LADIES AND GENTLEMEN IS THE REASON THAT THE PROVARI AND MECH MODS VAPE BETTER THEN THE 33.3hz DEVICES!
I've seen a few post talking about how lights and coils react to PWM, most of it is wrong. A light bulb and a heating coil are essentialy the same thing. They both operate under the principal of converting energy to heat, this then causes the coil to glow giving off light. The only real difference between the two is intended use. PWM has been used to control the brightness of a light bulb for a longtime now, and probably has been known about even longer.
However, watching a light bulb controlled by PWM and how it is behaving to the PWM are two different things. If you take two of the same buld/coils, one has a constant feed of 60w, the other has a 50% duty cycle feeding it 120w they will appear to give off the same amount of light. In fact, the total measurement of lumens produced will be the same. Whats happening is that both bulbs produce the same measured amount of light/heat and use the same amount of total power. The 120w bulb is producing twice the amount of light/heat during it's on cycle and measured amounts average out at 60w. 120w on 50% / 0w off 50% vs just plain 60w.
The reason this is invalid is because it is missing one variable in this argument... Human perception.
Constant vision allows us to average out our visiual input. Our brains can even fill in the blanks when necessary. You do not see a bulb flickering on and off twice as bright as another. Our brain averages out the visual input by filling in the darkness with 50% of the on cycles total light output. The other 50% of the total light is seen as the bulbs on cycle. The end result is they look the same to us. However, the 120w bulb is producing twice the amount of heat/light during its on cycle.
If this is done too slow we can see the light turn off and back on. All of this must happen fast enough for our brains to be able to do this at a certain number of hz, or times per second. Here is the real kicker to this, that number is... approximately 30hz. That 33.3hz number did not come out of the blue during design, it is there for a reason. It is just on the other side of 30hz so we can not see the heating coil visibly flicker.
So now the real problem is... The PWM coil is heating up hotter in the same amount of given time because it is being pushed harder. The problem is not averaging out heat it is the transfer of heat to the eliquid and that this process happens so fast the eliquid never gets a chance to coil to ambient temperature. Over a measured amount of time the juice with end up hotter then with a flat signal output. During this time the tempt of the juice is also going to fluctuate as the heating coil changes between the on and off state..... THIS LADIES AND GENTLEMEN IS THE REASON THAT THE PROVARI AND MECH MODS VAPE BETTER THEN THE 33.3hz DEVICES!
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