Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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Alter

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Sometimes a hairdresser will have this rayon...and mite give you a handful for free
That's how I got my first few feet of rayon. I heard, then read up on it some, found the box and its 44060 number on the net that I was looking for then went to the several hairdressers in our town and one had the box. I asked her for a few feet then explained to her that I wanted wicking for my ecig. She gave me a piece from the bottom of the box I then darted home and wicked a coil that was just amazing.

yup. my rayon wicks last far longer with NETs than my cotton did. what a wonder!
Rayon lasts so much longer than cotton cause the juice flows outside the fiber so rayon settles inside the coil not shrink so its doesn't plug up . Cotton the juice flows inside the fiber thus cotton expands and fiber by fiber begins to plug up with cooties until there is no more flow left from all the fibers being plugged and dryhits begin. Thats why rayon lasts so much more longer than cotton in any build.
 

TrollDragon

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I just looked and they all charge shipping in the UK.. Not good. Here in the US it's free shipping for it.
Well, we all don't live in the US... The rest of us have to pay shipping on everything. Here in Canada it's a minimum of $10 to send a package anywhere. I wouldn't want to hazard a guess how much the 3lb box would have cost me through the mail.
 

ricks

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Well, we all don't live in the US... The rest of us have to pay shipping on everything. Here in Canada it's a minimum of $10 to send a package anywhere. I wouldn't want to hazard a guess how much the 3lb box would have cost me through the mail.
Wow Sorry, That's crazy. I never knew that.
 
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Mrscub

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TrollDragon

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Unfortunately not. The woman in our store looked at me like I was crazy when I said what I wanted it for . I've even messaged the local vape shops but no joy!!!! Might have to hang on until I can afford the big box I think. Makes sense in the long run x
Cloud9 has it for a pound a metre, it's a gouge but easily available.
Cellucotton wick material - Rayon - 1m
 

PaulBHC

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Any advice on wicking the subtank mini rba plus (with the big holes) using rayon would be greatly appreciated. I'm unsure of how much to thin/trim the tails. A pic would be great if anyone is using this tank.

Many thanks

I do a horizontal 2.5mm coil and hold the rayon wick tips up like rabbit ears. Slide the topless cover over the tips and secure the cover. Cut the tips just above the edge of the cover. Using a small screwdriver I push about half the wick down in the bottom and then push the rest down on that. If it vapes wet/spits, you can put small wads of wick on each side. If dry, cut some off.

Larger diameter coils or coiling with thick or clapton type wire may require smaller diameter to allow airflow around the outside of the coil.
 

Alter

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Any advice on wicking the subtank mini rba plus (with the big holes) using rayon would be greatly appreciated. I'm unsure of how much to thin/trim the tails. A pic would be great if anyone is using this tank.

Many thanks
I've been rebuilding the subtank mini's for my wife and I for the last 2 years using only rayon. They don't leak nor any other problems.
-Make the rayon wick almost distort the coil tight inside. This isn't cotton so it doesn't expand.
-Biggest trick is to thin the tails using something pointy then brushing through the tail removing the excess fiber(you'll see once you begin to brush through). I cut the pulled out fibers so I'm not removing strands from inside the coil. The bigger ID the coil is the more excess fiber you remove but 1/3 to 1/2 is a good start.
- I don't make rabbit ears then stuff into a mush-mash....I like my wicking straight and pretty for shortest unobstructed route to the coil.
- After wicking the coil then thinning the tail, I cut the wick so I have excess, just past the base oring. I then juice the wick then with a box cutter knife blade(no handle) on the bottom and I use a dental pick but a pin will work also, brush downward having juice all through the tail, making all the fibers nice and straight along with making a fan shape after you comb the wick(box cutter blade gives you a nice solid surface to work on), not a wide fan(if too wide then fiddle with it or start over) but one just barely wider to fit in the bottom of the RBA deck...trim the tail so its just above the base oring
-Fold the fan shape so the ends sit along the bottom corner of the RBA. Just set the chimney cap onto the wicking, you should be able to get one side in place and have fibers sticking out the bottom of the other side, push the fibers up into the chimney with a pin so the chimney slides into place, tighten chimney screw.
Now from the inside push the wick around so its against the outer wall with tweezers compacting the wick so its close as it can be to the RBA hole, look at the RBA hole from the outside to make sure there the hole is FULLY covered and no open spots.
- This is why I cut to have excess wick cause sometimes the top of the last wrap is partially exposed and has little to no wick, especially if you cut the wick too short. You should be able to work some of the wicking back by holding one side and pushing the other sides wick back, pinch slightly the wick with tweezers, there are a few ways to accomplish this but bottom line is to get wick to that last wrap.
This sounds a bit confusing to read but after doing this method a couple times you'll figure it out. My subtanks have never leaked, they can sit in atty holders for days and not a drop leaked, lay on their side overnight, bump around in my wife's purse and refill over and over again without closing the airflow.
 

Mrscub

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Aug 23, 2017
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I've been rebuilding the subtank mini's for my wife and I for the last 2 years using only rayon. They don't leak nor any other problems.
-Make the rayon wick almost distort the coil tight inside. This isn't cotton so it doesn't expand.
-Biggest trick is to thin the tails using something pointy then brushing through the tail removing the excess fiber(you'll see once you begin to brush through). I cut the pulled out fibers so I'm not removing strands from inside the coil. The bigger ID the coil is the more excess fiber you remove but 1/3 to 1/2 is a good start.
- I don't make rabbit ears then stuff into a mush-mash....I like my wicking straight and pretty for shortest unobstructed route to the coil.
- After wicking the coil then thinning the tail, I cut the wick so I have excess, just past the base oring. I then juice the wick then with a box cutter knife blade(no handle) on the bottom and I use a dental pick but a pin will work also, brush downward having juice all through the tail, making all the fibers nice and straight along with making a fan shape after you comb the wick(box cutter blade gives you a nice solid surface to work on), not a wide fan(if too wide then fiddle with it or start over) but one just barely wider to fit in the bottom of the RBA deck...trim the tail so its just above the base oring
-Fold the fan shape so the ends sit along the bottom corner of the RBA. Just set the chimney cap onto the wicking, you should be able to get one side in place and have fibers sticking out the bottom of the other side, push the fibers up into the chimney with a pin so the chimney slides into place, tighten chimney screw.
Now from the inside push the wick around so its against the outer wall with tweezers compacting the wick so its close as it can be to the RBA hole, look at the RBA hole from the outside to make sure there the hole is FULLY covered and no open spots.
- This is why I cut to have excess wick cause sometimes the top of the last wrap is partially exposed and has little to no wick, especially if you cut the wick too short. You should be able to work some of the wicking back by holding one side and pushing the other sides wick back, pinch slightly the wick with tweezers, there are a few ways to accomplish this but bottom line is to get wick to that last wrap.
This sounds a bit confusing to read but after doing this method a couple times you'll figure it out. My subtanks have never leaked, they can sit in atty holders for days and not a drop leaked, lay on their side overnight, bump around in my wife's purse and refill over and over again without closing the airflow.
Thank you great advice I'm going to give it a go when I get rayon x
 

bwh79

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Any advice on wicking the subtank mini rba plus (with the big holes) using rayon would be greatly appreciated. I'm unsure of how much to thin/trim the tails. A pic would be great if anyone is using this tank.

Many thanks
I trim it like this. I call it the "Metalli-cut" because the shape of it kind of reminds me of Metallica's band logo. I trim it like this, and then slip the cover down over top of the wick; the slanted cut makes it so the ends of the fibers are all perfectly positioned right at the juice port, without bunching up or sticking out too far.

qWXaDpBl.jpg
 

cigatron

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I trim it like this. I call it the "Metalli-cut" because the shape of it kind of reminds me of Metallica's band logo. I trim it like this, and then slip the cover down over top of the wick; the slanted cut makes it so the ends of the fibers are all perfectly positioned right at the juice port, without bunching up or sticking out too far.

qWXaDpBl.jpg

Yup, same here, just a simple angled cut. Picking and combing out fibers to thin wicktails is a complete waste of time and effort, didn't work any better for me than a simple angle cut.
 

Mowgli

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I could have sworn I posted this here last night but I don't see it so...

I only gave away about 20' of this $15 box I bought last September.
It looks like wicking has cost me about $5 for a year of vaping.
About the price of 2 drop in coils. Nice.

21167969_2017544485143038_7272633030490040635_o.jpg
 

cigatron

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I have that same box. I've probably given away well over 100 feet and have been wicking coils, both for my wife and myself, for over two years. I may actually have to buy a fresh box by the end of this year.

If you run out of rayon from the Sally's 44060 box you'll be the first I've heard of.
 
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