Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

[HolmanGT]

Holman and anyone using a genesis tank, try pulling out the fill plugs/screws. I had trouble last night filling an AGA-T2 with a needle tip bottle and pulled out the screw from the second wick hole. Rayon seemed to suck liquid so fast and block the wick hole that it would air lock the tank. I started leaving out the fill plug. Now with two holes, it seems to work even better. YMMV

Paul,

I discovered that after much emotional resistance. I was sure with the fill plugs out it would leak all over the place. Then out of wicking disappointment I gave your method a try and it makes all the difference in the world.

The only problem I have now is with my ZAPs. The fill hole on those which they intended to also be the breather hole is just too small it just allows a blunt filler needle in. I think my filler needle points are 16 or 18 Ga. I would love to drill them out to at least 2.5 mm but I don't have a drill press. The way they are now they actually form a juice lock in the hole.

I may try to find a machine shop around town and have them drille it out. The reason I don't try it with just a hand drill motor is I have done that when opening air wick air holes in top caps and believe me when the SS snags and snaps a bit it can become a real ordeal to clear the hole.

PS - your tip about hovering over an acronym is much appreciated not to mention very cool.

 

[MikeE3]

The only problem I have now is with my ZAPs. The fill hole on those which they intended to also be the breather hole is just too small it just allows a blunt filler needle in. I think my filler needle points are 16 or 18 Ga. I would love to drill them out to at least 2.5 mm but I don't have a drill press. The way they are now they actually form a juice lock in the hole.

Tip for filling the ZAP. Hold your setup at an angle when filling so the 'air bubble' will form at the wick hole. Put your syringe tip through the fill hole to the bottom of the tank. Then push the plunger as fast as you can. The quick 'pressure' buildup will tend to bubble up juice around the wick/wick hole and let some air escape. If you do it 'slow' you'll just be pushing juice past the wick and block any chance of air escaping. The fast-fill method can still be a bit messy but 'for me' seems to work OK. A lot a Z-Atty users used this technique particularly w/ fat SS wicks.

Another thing I do w/ the ZAPs. The wick hole is 1/8" (~3mm). I make my coils 2mm or 2.5mm ID, this helps keeps the amount of rayon going through the wick hole down so as not to completely fill the wick hole w/ material.


(I haven't tried this - but I wonder if you can insert just a syringe tip along slide the wick - let it act as a tube for air to escape)

 

[HolmanGT]

Tip for filling the ZAP. Hold your setup at an angle when filling so the 'air bubble' will form at the wick hole. Put your syringe tip through the fill hole to the bottom of the tank. Then push the plunger as fast as you can. The quick 'pressure' buildup will tend to bubble up juice around the wick/wick hole and let some air escape. If you do it 'slow' you'll just be pushing juice past the wick and block any chance of air escaping. The fast-fill method can still be a bit messy but 'for me' seems to work OK. A lot a Z-Atty users used this technique particularly w/ fat SS wicks.

Another thing I do w/ the ZAPs. The wick hole is 1/8" (~3mm). I make my coils 2mm or 2.5mm ID, this helps keeps the amount of rayon going through the wick hole down so as not to completely fill the wick hole w/ material.


(I haven't tried this - but I wonder if you can insert just a syringe tip along slide the wick - let it act as a tube for air to escape)

MikeE,

I don't have too much trouble filling the ZAP but... when the filler hole has juice in it the blockage prevents the wick from wicking do to the vacuum build up. I am pretty sure if I opened up the size of the fill hole like a lot of other genesis attys all would be good.

What I have done as a temporary measure is kind of like your suggestion about a syringe tip down the side of the wick. What I have done and it seems to work pretty good (not as good as a 2 mm breather hole would) is I take a long needle, OK wait I have to go measure it - alright I'm back, with a diameter of 1 mm and insert it down thru the top or the wick down thru the coil all the way to the end of the wick which is about .125" off the bottom of the tank.

For me (until I can get the breather hole enlarged) it seems to allow air to back fill into the tank and to my surprise I get more vapor production I believe because the hole thru the wick acts as a capillary tube allowing more juice to get up thru the 3 mm hole in the build deck. Heck I don't know why it helps but it definitely does seem to make the ZAP function more efficiently.

I have thought about making the coil smaller than the wick hole like you suggest to leave a little gap around the wick. However to date every time I have rebuilt one I keep forgetting to give the smaller coil a try.

PS the filling problem when I was using "Silica" it made a giant mess every time. The blunt I have is about the same size as the filler hole so when I pumped fast or slow it would just push juice up thru the center of the Ready-X-Wick. It Looked like one of the fountains at "Caesar's Palace".

 

[crg31953]

Hey All,

So I'm finally getting around to setting up my KFL+ V2 and my Russian 91% V2 with rayon.

I know I've read about trimming the wick for these devices but considering the length of this thread could someone who's been here for a while point me to the proper section or offer a pic. of the proper method?

Thanks!

 

[jakematic]

I know I've read about trimming the wick for these devices but considering the length of this thread could someone who's been here for a while point me to the proper section or offer a pic. of the proper method?

Thanks!

Search this thread for 'bowtie'

Personally I find it completely un-necessary. YMMV

 

[HolmanGT]

Search this thread for 'bowtie'

Personally I find it completely un-necessary. YMMV

I agree with you Jake. I just trim even with the bottom deck and glue it to the back wall with e-juice. I haven't been able to puff fast enough to run the wick dry.

PS - I do make sure the entire wick is well primed including the wick inside the coil.

 

[juggalofisher88]

The reason I don't try it with just a hand drill motor is I have done that when opening air wick air holes in top caps and believe me when the SS snags and snaps a bit it can become a real ordeal to clear the hole.

Go to lowes or home depot and buy a cobalt drill bit, for 2.5mm you would need a a 3/32 it a tad smaller (but i count find any metric at my stores....) makes quick work of the SS, with slow and steady pressure, and stopping every 15-30sec so the bit doesn't get to hot.

 

[HolmanGT]

Go to lowes or home depot and buy a cobalt drill bit, for 2.5mm you would need a a 3/32 it a tad smaller (but i count find any metric at my stores....) makes quick work of the SS, with slow and steady pressure, and stopping every 15-30sec so the bit doesn't get to hot.

Cobalt - OK I have a Home Depot two blocks away. If you think it won't bind up and snap. That SS is a bugger to work with. The drills I have (don't know what king they are) will be drilling along just fine and then twang it snaps and I have to spend the next 30 minutes trying to get it out without scratching the atty all to He!!.

I'll pick up a couple tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

Or you can just watch the ECF classifieds for a ZAP slightly used and mostly functional and very cheap.

 

[jakematic]

Cobalt

Cobalt with a C, not the brand with a K.

Although there could be a Kobalt Cobalt... or would that be a Cobalt Kobalt ?

 

[f1vefour]

I have an idea on how to make the Jack flavor but not sure. I might get some cheap whiskey this weekend and play with it.

It's actually quite easy, microwave a bit of Jack until most of the alcohol simmers away, run it through the smallest micron filter you have 0.3 or so is what I like. Instant water based whiskey flavoring.

 

[HolmanGT]

Cobalt with a C, not the brand with a K.

Although there could be a Kobalt Cobalt... or would that be a Cobalt Kobalt ?

Thanks Jake, now I am so confused it is Cobalt right? Don't tell me there is a Chinese company with a brand name Kobalt. That's dirty pool not that the Chinese would play dirty.

 

[jakematic]

Thanks Jake, now I am so confused it is Cobalt right? Don't tell me there is a Chinese company with a brand name Kobalt. That's dirty pool not that the Chinese would play dirty.

Cobalt, atomic number 27, the metal state.

The brand called Kobalt gets it's color from cobalt blue.
They actually aren't bad tools in my experience.

Craftsman used to be the best, but they're made from chinesium now and god forbid you try to get one replaced under the alleged lifetime warranty anymore....

But I digress.
Speaking of digressing I just burnt my rayon wick to a crisp not paying attention [yes, it's actually black now]

Meh... I'll suffer through until tomorrow and carefully take a tiny piece out of the millennium supply.

 

[SlickWilly]

Wait for it.......

 

[kgs-wy]

The brand called Kobalt gets it's color from cobalt blue.
They actually aren't bad tools in my experience.

Nope, not too bad at all. I'd rate them around Husky and 'lower end' Mac tools I've used, which are better than most of the modern, as you put it, Chinesium Craftsman. Unless something's changed in the last few years, I think there's some still built to the old school Craftsman standard, but they're more expensive than high end Mac tools are, or at least were when still available, but that alleged lifetime warranty is nightmarish, so... ::shrugs::

On a threat related note, I've gotten another 50mL+ out of my Rose V2 with one wick. Tomorrow or the next day I'm gonna experiment with a rayon wick on an inverted V twin, but before I remove the current wick 'n' coil, I'll take some pics. I'll keep my current dual-parallel-in-parallel just in case the iVt fails, and I'll also up some pics of the new iVt when I'm done with it.

As an aside, thinning the wicks -- which seems counterintuitive in a Rose V2 or similar RBA -- works surprisingly well. An addition to the thinning I did in my last wick (the one I mentioned in my last post, which went well over 50mL), I left some longish tails that I wrapped around the outside of the chimney/atomizer chamber along the bottom thread (you'll see in my next post with the pictures). I'm currently using a relatively clear liquid after using a darker, sweeter liquid (lots more wick darkening), but have seen even less... Actually, no real discernible wick backflow into the tank, which I'm attributing to the tails.

At any rate, keep on vaping, everyone!

-Laters...!
kgs-wy

 

[JeremyR]

posted by mikeE3 ; Another thing I do w/ the ZAPs. The wick hole is 1/8" (~3mm). I make my coils 2mm or 2.5mm ID, this helps keeps the amount of rayon going through the wick hole down so as not to completely fill the wick hole w/ material.

Hey Holman
Of course Any tank needs to be able to get make up air or it won't wick, it will vacuum lock... A smaller amount of wick will help you I think. If air is able to get sucked in around the wick and into the tank under negative pressure; it won't vapor lock. I would prefer to see a small gap around the tank wick when it's broke in.... A mesh wick will let air into the tank through the mesh I believe.

 

[readeuler]

Hey All,

So I'm finally getting around to setting up my KFL V2 and my Russian 91% V2 with rayon.

I know I've read about trimming the wick for these devices but considering the length of this thread could someone who's been here for a while point me to the proper section or offer a pic. of the proper method?

Thanks!

I just tried rayon for the first time the other day in my EhPro Kayfun lite v1. I followed some pics from a post several (dozen) pages back, and I can't remember the poster's name.

Nevertheless, here are the pictures I took from my wicking job. It's in a 28 gauge A1, 1/16" (approx. 1.6mm, I believe) ID, 1.5ohm coil.

Pre-trimming, quite a lot of rayon, about as much as possible

Trimmed and soaked. The tails aren't very thinned out, but others have suggest they should be (I wasn't sure how, so I just made sure it'd fit in the chimney)

Top view, tank on:

Here's a shot after a day or two, after a single tank (mediocre liquid, didn't use it much)

Then I retrimmed ever so slightly, and took one last shot from above (no chimney/tank yet).

I'm a rayon noob, but it's been working for me. I didn't go above 12 watts for more than an isolated hit wicking with cotton, and this wick has been taking 15 for its entire life. I also used to push down the cotton with the bottom of the chimney on, and had terrible luck placing the cotton with the chimney off, using cotton. With Rayon, I haven't had trouble switching to this new method.

Hope it helps!

 

[jakematic]

I just burnt my rayon wick to a crisp not paying attention [yes, it's actually black now]

Disregard.

Blind man with dirty glasses trying to look down a Cyclone atty in the dark using a penlight here.
But apparently my coil is ultra gunky.

And it was one NASTY dry hit.

 

[juggalofisher88]

Ok so here's almost a week in my kf3.1, lightly used bout 4 tanks of juice (and another 2 tanks worth got leaked out...)

This thing would randomly flood, and leak! Urg its driving me.crazy

 

[crg31953]

I just tried rayon for the first time the other day in my EhPro Kayfun lite v1. I followed some pics from a post several (dozen) pages back, and I can't remember the poster's name.

Nevertheless, here are the pictures I took from my wicking job. It's in a 28 gauge A1, 1/16" (approx. 1.6mm, I believe) ID, 1.5ohm coil.

Pre-trimming, quite a lot of rayon, about as much as possible

Trimmed and soaked. The tails aren't very thinned out, but others have suggest they should be (I wasn't sure how, so I just made sure it'd fit in the chimney)

Top view, tank on:

Here's a shot after a day or two, after a single tank (mediocre liquid, didn't use it much)

Then I retrimmed ever so slightly, and took one last shot from above (no chimney/tank yet).

I'm a rayon noob, but it's been working for me. I didn't go above 12 watts for more than an isolated hit wicking with cotton, and this wick has been taking 15 for its entire life. I also used to push down the cotton with the bottom of the chimney on, and had terrible luck placing the cotton with the chimney off, using cotton. With Rayon, I haven't had trouble switching to this new method.

Hope it helps!

Thanks for the great Pics.

 

[Tbev]

Fisher, I hate to say it but your maybe using just A TINY BIT too. Little wick that's why it's puking every once in a while, that happens to me every so often BC I run them small so they wick the best.

Crg, you could porky cut off quit a but more n be ok.