Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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HolmanGT

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haha, that's why it's always best to ask before ordering. This was posted in some random thread I came across.
This is what I tested that made me want to replace my stockpile of koh gen doh: Vaping Outlaws Rayon Cotton

Wow, that's like 8 inches (30 cm) for over $2 :)

UK Ebay has this:

***Graham's Cellucotton 10 Feet > 90 Feet Vaping cotton wick 100% Rayon Ecig *** | eBay

It's looks like that sale ended...

I didn't realize you were in the UK I don't have any knowledge how to obtain it there but the UK link that Chinook listed is a far better deal.

But if you can find a Sally's Beauty Supply in the UK you can get about 1200 feet for $15 USD. I think I thru that in just to be mean. It's kinda like when I lived in the country side of Kentucky and could only get 56k dialup Internet and all my friends had 50 meg lines. By the way I moved. :D
 

Raguvian

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Just pulled my original build out of my Kayfun after vaping on it all week. It was black and gunky and gross looking. I decided to run the entire build deck, wick and all, under some hot water and within 2-3 seconds the rayon was looking white and pure again. Very impressed.

At this rate, I'm never going to order that 25 foot box.
 

JeremyR

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I edited my last longevity post..

I was way to conservative with 150ml est... Ive done some figuring.. I was considering 5ml a day when I know it is at least 6 because today was a normal vaping day and I'm already working on 7 ml today. So at 6 ml a day it would be 180ml !!!

The next bar is 180ml

The hardest part is not having a stupid accident ruin you run. The rest is on auto pilot... Set it and forget it.. Lol

Oh also I dropped that build to concrete from 3 ft many many times the last month.... Trusty zmax v3 still like new a year later. Hundreds of serious drops even from two stories to hard wood.
 
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Blackl1sted

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Just pulled my original build out of my Kayfun after vaping on it all week. It was black and gunky and gross looking. I decided to run the entire build deck, wick and all, under some hot water and within 2-3 seconds the rayon was looking white and pure again. Very impressed.

At this rate, I'm never going to order that 25 foot box.

I got the 25 or 30ft box and haven't even opened it yet, still working on my 10' sample pack. I think i'm set for a very long time. Glad I didn't get the 500' box.
 

JeremyR

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So I saw something rather astonishing and was able to catch a pic.

I pulled out my month old 180ml rayon wick. Rinsed the coil of juice. No visable gunk. Went to dry durn it.. Fired for just a second and let off inadvertantly. I saw the one leg start to glow. Looked back and saw glowing still but it wasn't firing.. The thin carbon on the coil had lit up and it burned its way all the way around d and down the coil.like the coil was a fuse. With no smoke.. It was pretty cool.

Coil after 180ml / coil fuse



The fuse was somewhat slow burning. Long enough to grab my phone after it already started... You can see that one coil lit up there. The coils to the left are like new shining to the right is about to light up... it was burning right along the coil like a fuse going around and around. But notice there is no smoke and there never is on rayon dry burns.
 
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cindycated

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I got the 25 or 30ft box and haven't even opened it yet, still working on my 10' sample pack. I think i'm set for a very long time. Glad I didn't get the 500' box.

You should maybe double-check your box and make sure it says "100% Rayon Fibers" somewhere. I don't remember seeing 25-30ft boxes...unless you meant 40ft... If it's Graham Cellucotton, the box # is 44130. ;)
 

Blackl1sted

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You should maybe double-check your box and make sure it says "100% Rayon Fibers" somewhere. I don't remember seeing 25-30ft boxes...unless you meant 40ft... If it's Graham Cellucotton, the box # is 44130. ;)

Yes it probably is a 40ft box. I haven't looked at it since I got it sometime in Sep. And yes it's Rayon.
 

jaxgator

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practically since the beginning of my rda/ rta experience ( august.. about 1 month into vaping ) I have been Rayon ever since. I keep trying ko gen do, etc.. but everything is muted compared to rayon.
just cant go backwards at this point. tanks and drippers deserve rayon for the best flavor possible, imho.

I had been struggling wicking single strand spaced nickel coils with rayon. Couldn't seem to get enough in the coil without destroying it so I've been using KGD in my nickel builds. Going to attempt to make some twisted nickel and hopefully that'll stiffen the coil up enough to be able to wick with rayon again.

Ugh reading 1012 pages is not for me, as I can't even finish a kiddie book at 8 pages with pictures only. So I'll rather just ask the most commonly asked question yet again:
Is this the rayon I'm looking for? Amazon.com : Graham Cellucotton Beauty Coil, 40 Feet : Hair Permanent Products : Beauty

Just got some rayon to compare with my koh gen doh this week, and I'm actually impressed with it. Seems to wick faster, last longer, I found no taste in it whatsoever. And the best kicker of them all, when i accidentally had a "dry hit" it was just hot as **** vapor, not burnt. So think I'm gonna get me a box (5 lifetimes supply) of this stuff to play with.

Yeah, as others have said, that's the wrong stuff. Most of us got it at Sally Beauty Supply has hair products, salon supplies, spa supplies, cosmetics, and more!. There are 4 different boxes that I know of.

44130 - 40 feet
44060 - 500 feet
44043 - 3 lb box (900 feet)
44050 - 1200 feet

Just make sure it says 100% rayon on the box as the boxes that contain 100% cotton look identical.

$_12.JPG


Not sure where you can get it in Australia though.
 

Raguvian

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You should maybe double-check your box and make sure it says "100% Rayon Fibers" somewhere. I don't remember seeing 25-30ft boxes...unless you meant 40ft... If it's Graham Cellucotton, the box # is 44130. ;)

I meant to say 500 foot box. I still haven't even used a foot of the 25 foot sample bag I bought.
 

SlickWilly

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Well I striped down the base of the Rose V2 and it looks like a no-go for me to be successful at drilling out the air hole. The air hole is just too close to the hole for the positive pin, it would open that thin wall which could be over come by inserting a stainless tube and trimming the side of the positive post for clearance but trying to drill this on my drill press and with the bits I have there is just too high a chance the bit will walk completely out of the air hole and into the large hole before I ever get all the way through. It could be done with the right tools, but not something I'm going to pursue. Damn it! :(

(click on pics to enlarge)
DSC01605.jpg

DSC01606.jpg
 

HolmanGT

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Well I striped down the base of the Rose V2 and it looks like a no-go for me to be successful at drilling out the air hole. The air hole is just too close to the hole for the positive pin, it would open that thin wall which could be over come by inserting a stainless tube and trimming the side of the positive post for clearance but trying to drill this on my drill press and with the bits I have there is just too high a chance the bit will walk completely out of the air hole and into the large hole before I ever get all the way through. It could be done with the right tools, but not something I'm going to pursue. Damn it! :(

(click on pics to enlarge)
View attachment 404427

View attachment 404428

Willy,

I wouldn't even think of trying it especially if you are unsure of success.

I have had the worst luck drilling SS. I always get comments when I say that... if you use this kind of drill or that it is a piece of cake. Well that has not been my experience. I don't have a drill press but with a hand drill I have snapped off bits in the hole had them walk and about every other horror you can imagine happen. I don't know what it is about SS but it is a bugger to drill at least it is for me. By the way I still have a KayFun light with and air hole filled with the tip of a drill bit snap off and stuck "real good".

At least if you don't mess with your Rose you will be able to enjoy a nice flavorful vape with modest air flow. To steal from Rip Tripper not every atty has to be a "Cloud Chucker". ;)

Thanks for the feedback Willy.
 

HolmanGT

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Well I striped down the base of the Rose V2 and it looks like a no-go for me to be successful at drilling out the air hole. The air hole is just too close to the hole for the positive pin, it would open that thin wall which could be over come by inserting a stainless tube and trimming the side of the positive post for clearance but trying to drill this on my drill press and with the bits I have there is just too high a chance the bit will walk completely out of the air hole and into the large hole before I ever get all the way through. It could be done with the right tools, but not something I'm going to pursue. Damn it! :(

(click on pics to enlarge)
View attachment 404427

View attachment 404428

Willy,
I wouldn't even think of trying it especially if you are unsure of success.
I have had the worst luck drilling SS. I always get comments when I say that... if you use this kind of drill or that it is a piece of cake. Well that has not been my experience. I don't have a drill press but with a hand drill I have snapped off bits in the hole had them walk and about every other horror you can imagine happen. I don't know what it is about SS but it is a bugger to drill at least it is for me. By the way I still have a KayFun light with and air hole filled with the tip of a drill bit snap off and stuck "real good".
At least if you don't mess with your Rose you will be able to enjoy a nice flavorful vape with modest air flow. To steal from Rip Tripper not every atty has to be a "Cloud Chucker". ;)
Thanks for the feedback Willy.
 

awsum140

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I'm in the same boat with you, Holman. I've tried different style bits, saliva for lube, suggested by AMD, and still no real success. Not having a drill press, milling machine or lathe is a BIG disadvantage. I have found that if I am only taking off .1mm or so at a time it does go fine. My next trick is buying a set of bits in .1mm increments from 1.5mm to 3mm and getting multiples of each size.

From what I've read about stainless, as it is worked, gets warmer, it gets harder and harder plus it is highly abrasive compared to other metals. A unique set of properties...handy most of the time unless you're trying to work the stuff.
 

HolmanGT

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I'm in the same boat with you, Holman. I've tried different style bits, saliva for lube, suggested by AMD, and still no real success. Not having a drill press, milling machine or lathe is a BIG disadvantage. I have found that if I am only taking off .1mm or so at a time it does go fine. My next trick is buying a set of bits in .1mm increments from 1.5mm to 3mm and getting multiples of each size.

From what I've read about stainless, as it is worked, gets warmer, it gets harder and harder plus it is highly abrasive compared to other metals. A unique set of properties...handy most of the time unless you're trying to work the stuff.

Awsum,

I'll double down on your opinions about SS. I know that when using SS tubing fittings if you don't use Teflon tape the thread will some times gall-up so bad you can not get the connections apart - EVER!
As far as SS teal hardening I know that a few times I tried a lighter pressure with my drill with the net result being what you said about it hardening. The light pressure just heats the bit and the SS chunk and the SS gets so hard that it then starts to polish off the cutting edges of the bit - Ugh!

If you ever find a set of metric drill bits in 0.1mm increments let me know. That is the only method that I have found that works even a little bit (no pun intended). ;)

PS - If I had an expensive "Non-Clone" atty I would never even consider drilling it myself. If I broke off a bit in a $175 dollar atty I might well become suicidal. ;) Oh - and as far as AMD's pictures of his precision machining IMHO it is just part of a Russian plot to destroy the clone atty market so you have to buy the real thing from Russia. :lol:
 

newphreak

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Thanks for the help :laugh: I'll be a happy camper and follow this thread to see if I can learn something usefull eventually. You guys seem to need a lesson in geography. :p
And stainless and heat resistant steel are both some of the worst steel I've worked with. You have to run at lower speeds and any cooling is preferred over none. So my advice would be to use patience if you're trying to do this with a hand drill.
Also, getting in a position where you can sit on top of what you're drilling should allow you to aim better. Just some bush-mechanic tips haha
The best is always to get a lathe or a milling machine.
 

awsum140

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I do sit on top of things, clamped and braced solidly, very low speeds (say 100-200rpm), lots of pressure and lots of coolant, the bits still turn into blunt needles in less than a 1/16" of material.

I have a link for bits, Holman, and when I find it I'll PM you and post it here. I was trying to avoid ordering a ton of bits, but there doesn't seem to be a better way short of a fairly expensive drill press or pretty expensive benchtop milling machine.

I agree, AMD is either trying to get us all to buy Russian mods or has a deal with machinery suppliers, LOL.
 
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