Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Here's my latest rewick..
Went super tight with it. And yes had some rayon taste for a while but it subsided. Decided to just leave it way heavy for now..
One thing with the really dense wick...
It pops like the 4th of July!
Great vapor production flavor is slightly muted, as expectes with a tight wick, but not too bad after it broke in after 3-4ml.
Went super tight with it. And yes had some rayon taste for a while but it subsided. Decided to just leave it way heavy for now..
One thing with the really dense wick...
It pops like the 4th of July!
Great vapor production flavor is slightly muted, as expectes with a tight wick, but not too bad after it broke in after 3-4ml.
I couldn't find the original link I had, but found an even better one....bits in .05mm increments -
Metric Drill Bits mm metric drill bits
Metric Drill Bits mm metric drill bits
Alright,
So this is what I've found with the new high volume rta's that are coming out, and possibly for some old favorites even.
I tried to snip close and lay the rayon in there, it worked but then flooded the deck...Rayon seems to act like a vacuum and sucks it up so I tried something with the silverplay, I stuffed the rayon in the juice channel and like magic it straws that liquid in no problem. Its fast enough to keep that coil wet without any excess dripping and I've yet to have a dry hit.
I was blown away by the performance that Rayon puts out, it keeps up and gives more then I'd ever guess.
Just a thought
So this is what I've found with the new high volume rta's that are coming out, and possibly for some old favorites even.
I tried to snip close and lay the rayon in there, it worked but then flooded the deck...Rayon seems to act like a vacuum and sucks it up so I tried something with the silverplay, I stuffed the rayon in the juice channel and like magic it straws that liquid in no problem. Its fast enough to keep that coil wet without any excess dripping and I've yet to have a dry hit.
I was blown away by the performance that Rayon puts out, it keeps up and gives more then I'd ever guess.
Just a thought
Just FYI: If it doesn't say: "Super Premium Cobalt" - I wouldn't buy it.
All of my life, I've been using just HSS bits. Now I've tried Cobalt. I'll never go back. IMHO
Oh yes. Almost forgot: You all must buy Russian mods!!!
Just FYI: If it doesn't say: "Super Premium Cobalt" - I wouldn't buy it.
All of my life, I've been using just HSS bits. Now I've tried Cobalt. I'll never go back. IMHO
Oh yes. Almost forgot: You all must buy Russian Mods!!!
I wondered how long it would be before you called me on the Russian sarcasm by the way the was the second one.
The other thing is those bit that aswum liked to are kind of expensive. I can only imagine what the Cobalt bits cost.
Hey guys. I'm a relatively new vapor and have the 20w istick. I've just bought my first RTA after giving up on my useless flooding Nautilus mini.
I just went and got the Lemo Drop. It's still in the mail but I'm stocking up on my supplies. I intend to use the cellucotton rayon from Sallys as my wicking material. The only thing I'm unsure of is the amount to use for a 2mm coil. Since the rayon comes in a coil, do I use it as is - as far as thickness, or so I have to thin it out for optimal vaping?
Thanks for the help! I can't wait for my RTA to arrive
-Rachel
I just went and got the Lemo Drop. It's still in the mail but I'm stocking up on my supplies. I intend to use the cellucotton rayon from Sallys as my wicking material. The only thing I'm unsure of is the amount to use for a 2mm coil. Since the rayon comes in a coil, do I use it as is - as far as thickness, or so I have to thin it out for optimal vaping?
Thanks for the help! I can't wait for my RTA to arrive
-Rachel
It comes out of the box like a rope about an inch thick. That's a big coil.
I pull off (not cut off) a few inch long piece, then spread it out a bit. Then I pull from the outer edge about a pencil size width, a couple of inches long. Put that on one palm and roll it with the other palm like playdoh. It takes some practice to be able to guess how big a piece will compress enough to fit into a coil at just the right amount.
I pull off (not cut off) a few inch long piece, then spread it out a bit. Then I pull from the outer edge about a pencil size width, a couple of inches long. Put that on one palm and roll it with the other palm like playdoh. It takes some practice to be able to guess how big a piece will compress enough to fit into a coil at just the right amount.
+1.Just FYI: If it doesn't say: "Super Premium Cobalt" - I wouldn't buy it.
All of my life, I've been using just HSS bits. Now I've tried Cobalt. I'll never go back. IMHO
Oh yes. Almost forgot: You all must buy Russian Mods!!!
I used to fix press equipment and always had better luck with cobalt bits on metal. That's probably why Awsum kept wearing them down! Not as many sizes, but you probably wouldn't have to step up to your desired size, like you would have to with HSS. And if you used them other material, they last forever.
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Cobalt bits haven't helped me either, just more expensive nails after trying to drill out an air hole.
Can someone post pictures of -- or offer advice/directions -- on how to wick a Lemo Drop? It's my first RTA and I can't seem to get the wicking right. I've been using rayon in RDAs for the past few months with much success, but on the Lemo it's like it's not wicking fast enough. If I take short pulls it's *ok*, but anything longer and it starts to taste like it's burning something.
Any help is appreciated.
Any help is appreciated.
I've got 2 of the full size Lemos on the go at the moment. 3mm coil around the 1.2 ohm mark. I've run both parallel builds and micro coils in the Lemos. Currently using parallel builds in both. One at 1.1 ohm the other at 1.3 ohm.
Once I've pulled the rayon through and felt the "squeak", I trim the tails to a 6-8mm length each side. Then fold them over to make sure they just touch the horizontal part of the wicking area, trimming off any extra wick length that could fold over and sit flat on this section. Then straighten out the tails again. Trim the tails, taking more from the top and sides, so that when their folded back down again, you can almost see through the tails.
Juice up the wick and do a test fire. I want the tails to be almost dry after 3 or 4 test fires, but the main body of the wick (under the coil) still to have some juice in place.
Set up as normal and vape away. I'm using a 50/50 juice in both Lemos. I get occasional air bubbles in the tank, if I chain vape. The juice I use is a fairly light coloured one - about 70ml used with one of my Lemos on the same wick/coil so far.
Hope that helps
Hi, the lemo drop will be wicked like a kayfun. You can't pinch the wick curving it down. When you have good snug density in the coil, curve tails to the deck the way you want, at the curve trim a relief cut and remove 60-80% of the material... Cut the end in the curve of the base and make sure it doesn't block the juice port... The port on the drop looks fairly small for its size.
Or spread the fiber vertically pull tip down to base and put an angle cut on it from the edge of chamber base to the top just short of where the chamber will sit so maybe a 1/4" from the coil to leave a short full wick at the top.
My installs take a number of cuts to form the wick to the exact shape I need. Make it what you need, it will hold form.
Or spread the fiber vertically pull tip down to base and put an angle cut on it from the edge of chamber base to the top just short of where the chamber will sit so maybe a 1/4" from the coil to leave a short full wick at the top.
My installs take a number of cuts to form the wick to the exact shape I need. Make it what you need, it will hold form.
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Thank you both! I'll try again. I think it may have been getting pinched when it was folded down.
ETA: Do you trim the relief cut on the top or bottom, or both?
ETA: Do you trim the relief cut on the top or bottom, or both?
awsum,
I don't know if I have ever had "Cobalt" bits or not but what Cindy and AMD are saying "Just use Cobalt" but like Great Chefs that tell you the recipe for some exotic dish always seem to leave out one or two magic ingredients (procedures) that make it work.
Like a recipe, drilling stainless seems to be a combination of ingredients and the right tools to do it all with. I keep thinking about a nice drill press with a nice drill press vice....if I could only justify it for something other than drilling out atomizer stuff, LOL.
Huh.... 
I remember when first started posting here and I got chastised for posting I wouldn't use plain HS bits on stainless..... And in the same post laughed at for drilling holes in the posts of my fogger, only to later see some others have been doing the same thing...... Well, at least now I feel vindicated.
I remember when first started posting here and I got chastised for posting I wouldn't use plain HS bits on stainless..... And in the same post laughed at for drilling holes in the posts of my fogger, only to later see some others have been doing the same thing...... Well, at least now I feel vindicated.
awsum,
I don't know if I have ever had "Cobalt" bits or not but what Cindy and AMD are saying "Just use Cobalt" but like Great Chefs that tell you the recipe for some exotic dish always seem to leave out one or two magic ingredients (procedures) that make it work.
LoL, like speed, pressure and coolant..... I hear ya.
BTW, I went back to the bench with the Rose not yet ready to admit defeat, I'll post some pics later. I chased the air hole out another .006, I took it right to the edge, it left a bulge from the bit into the hole for the positive post. I also opened the hole in the bottom inlet but that I open a tad more because I didn't want to mess with the slot in the adjustment ring, going bigger will leave more of an opening on the side of the slot when set wide open. When I was done I put it back together and looked it over, then I noticed the delrin piece in the bottom that hold the positive pin and has the half moon raised section, that half moon section was setting right in front of the air inlet hole! So I took it back apart, put a notch in the delrin and now there is a straight shot from the inlet hole to the center air hole in the base. It all made an improvement, not huge but surprising for that little I had opened it up. I can now do slow lung draws where as before it was strictly mouth draws. I'll get some pics later, build it back up and see how the flavor is, hopefully I haven't hurt the flavor any.....
Holman, is your cat driving you crazy with cabin fever yet? Mine is so bored, he's getting into stuff left and right and driving me nuts! Can't wait until the snow is gone so he can head back out to the woods and hunt again!
Rogue is working well. Not sure what I did right or wrong. Not much room for the wicks the way you guys do it. I just cut the ends at an angle and shoved them down in the well. Hopefully HolmanGT will get his and school me.
Yeah, you can't go all man on it. If it's getting stuck in the hole, probably too much pressure. Go slow and steady, and let the bit do all the work - you're really just guiding it.
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