Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Valid point, bro... I tend to not worry too much about O-rings and temp because of my job. We have O-rings that are good to 600°F and can hold back more than 30,000 PSI... but you won't find them at Home Depot!
But, yeah, now that I think about it, the SP doesn't have an O-ring there either, and it holds just fine...
John,
O-ring like that have been around for very long time and used in every hydraulic system you can imagine.
If you remember they were even used to seal the rockets on the space shuttle booster engines. I don't think anything gets hotter or higher pressure than that.
Challenger was exactly what I was thinking about when I asked. But for Challenger, it was the cold I think.
Yuppers - The cold caused the O-rings to not seal because the effective durometer of the O-ring material increased and failed to seal the tank.
Absolutely correct. It's much easier to get an O-ring to seal with temperature (even ambient temperature) than it is to get it to seal while cold. Anything below freezing is particularly difficult as the material tends to become brittle vs. softer. With pressure, you have to worry about extrusion and control that with gap specs and back-up rings (peek is particularly effective). In my experience, it's much easier to go with a metal-to-metal seal type when dealing with cold temperatures (same is true for extreme heat situations). It's hard to beat a metal-to-metal seal if it's engineered right. To be honest, that's one of the things that impressed me so much about the Silver Play V2. The fill screw in the bottom of the atty is a metal-to-metal seal with no O-ring to chew up. Sometimes it's the small details like that which really grab my attention...
As to the question about did the O-rings that I was referring to exist in the 80's? Certainly O-rings existed, and even some very good ones for the time, but O-ring engineering has come a very long way in the past 20-30 years. There are compounds now that absolutely did not exist at that time. One of our oldest designs here at work originally used a piece of rope dipped in tar for a seal..... that seal was about 30 years ago (give or take a couple years). We still use that piece of equipment, but the seal has been re-designed to use a more modern O-ring...
As to the question about did the O-rings that I was referring to exist in the 80's? Certainly O-rings existed, and even some very good ones for the time, but O-ring engineering has come a very long way in the past 20-30 years. There are compounds now that absolutely did not exist at that time. One of our oldest designs here at work originally used a piece of rope dipped in tar for a seal..... that seal was about 30 years ago (give or take a couple years). We still use that piece of equipment, but the seal has been re-designed to use a more modern O-ring...
Valid point, bro... I tend to not worry too much about O-rings and temp because of my job. We have O-rings that are good to 600°F and can hold back more than 30,000 PSI... but you won't find them at Home Depot!
But, yeah, now that I think about it, the SP doesn't have an O-ring there either, and it holds just fine...
Cool O-rings! Do me up a package of those would ya, a half dozen of the smaller and a dozen of the larger would be fine.
Fill Screw: 4mm o.d X 2mm i.d X 1mm section.
Chimney: 8mm o.d X 5mm i.d X 1.5 mm section.
Tank: 19mm o.d X 17mm i.d X 1mm section.
Hmmmm.... I'm trying to figure out what size that is. What's kinda confusing is the cross section doesn't match your I.D. X O.D. measurements. For example, your fill screw should have a 2mm cross section but you're looking for 1mm... any idea what the O-ring size would be in U.S. sizes? The closest that I'm seeing would be around a -004 which has an I.D. of 1.78±0.13mm and a cross section of 1.78±0.08mmCool O-rings! Do me up a package of those would ya, a half dozen of the smaller and a dozen of the larger would be fine.
Fill Screw: 4mm o.d X 2mm i.d X 1mm section.
Chimney: 8mm o.d X 5mm i.d X 1.5 mm section.
Tank: 19mm o.d X 17mm i.d X 1mm section.
I just copied and pasted that from the AU Vapers site, it was the quickest one I could find...
Here is the list from TheKiwi's blog entry on ECF
1) Fill Screw oring: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k101/
2) Chimney oring: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k121/
3) Base and other sections orings: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k616/
I'll see what I can dig up tomorrow, bro... end of the day for me and I gotta run. It looks like I may have some that are pretty close, but I'll break out the calipers tomorrow and see how close they are.
I've a question for Jeremy.... I'm a full fledged rayon user, Thank you sir
My bro uses a sigeli 100 @ 34 watts, dual kanthol 26 ga. 7 wraps @ 2.5 mm .4 ohms in a bellows v2 tank. He insists on cotton bacon and rewicks EVERY DAY!!! (He's tried rayon and bought Sally's big box) I wicked his the way I do mine @ 5:00 pm and he said his wicks were burnt by noon the next day... I was shocked I don't understand why you, I, and so many others can go hundreds of mls without changing wicks, I can't figure what his issue is... Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
My bro uses a sigeli 100 @ 34 watts, dual kanthol 26 ga. 7 wraps @ 2.5 mm .4 ohms in a bellows v2 tank. He insists on cotton bacon and rewicks EVERY DAY!!! (He's tried rayon and bought Sally's big box) I wicked his the way I do mine @ 5:00 pm and he said his wicks were burnt by noon the next day... I was shocked I don't understand why you, I, and so many others can go hundreds of mls without changing wicks, I can't figure what his issue is... Any input is appreciated, thanks in advance!
Lots of variables in this. What kind of tank does he use? Maybe not getting enough airflow to the coil resulting in dry hits? Juice could be a likely culprit also. For example people who use NETS don't get much life out of a wick. Darker sweeter juices will gunk a coil much faster also. I vape my .4 ohm dual coil at 40 watts for quite a while without rewicking. But I use a pear juice in that. It's very clear and more tart than sweet so it barely gunks coils. Also need a decent amount of airflow to keep the coils from overheating.I've a question for Jeremy.... I'm a full fledged rayon user, Thank you sir
He's using a billows v2. I mentioned that. I'm not sure on his juice specifically. I will get that info.
Ah sorry missed that. Honestly idk. My best guess is airflow or type of juice. Using contact coils? Jeremy also converted me back to spaced coils. Significantly less gunking and cool down time. They just work better imo.
Airflow is great on the atty, it's what I use. I'm thinking he may hella chain vape idk! I'm curious about the spaced coils... We both use micro coils.
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