Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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f1vefour

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Low ohm load only matters on mechanical mods or those running high powered regulated mods at their limit.

Personally I can't stand a large mass of wire that heats slow and won't cool off quick enough. You release the button and it continues to cook your wick for ten seconds.

Those who like running 70 - 100 watts are doing so because of the large amount of wire that must be heated, therefore they really are just wasting power. I can get a similarly equal vape with smaller wire and less power, also my wick lasts longer and my juice tastes better.

And yes there are regulated devices that can't handle low ohm loads or can't handle them well.

On temperature control you don't get more accurate control with lower ohms, if you do the device is not very good.
 
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cindycated

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Hey Jeremy. Good to talk to u again :D.

Was off the grid for a while due to work and family visits.

Your theory about transporting vinegar and water faster might be a reason, but Boba's bounty is supposed to be 100% vg, not sure if the water or vinegar account for anything.

Sweeter on unflavored is why I love rayon :D. I love the sweet taste of VG :D.

I think my taste buds grew out of it. Not sure if i should train them again or keep it clean. But I do miss how I used to enjoy some flavors.
Can you just dilute them with VG, Aal? Maybe you just have to start out lighter for awhile...
 

cindycated

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There is much evidence that rayon fiber has antibacterial properties. Based from its natural properties.

Literally my coil at 200-300ml looks no different than it did with cotton at 20-30ml with the same juice.

Thats why I don't have to bother unless there's a problem.
I think the PG and VG are antibacterial too. :) That's why I only clean when I have to dry burn and rewick - which sadly is pretty often, cuz I love my sucralose. :blush: :laugh:
 

f1vefour

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I think the PG and VG are antibacterial too. :) That's why I only clean when I have to dry burn and rewick - which sadly is pretty often, cuz I love my sucralose. :blush: :laugh:

They certainly are, it's why hospitals have units that pump it into the ventilation system. Once they figured it out infections decreased by a large amount, something beyond %60+ less infections. But it was specifically to target Legionnaires' disease.
 

atroph

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Low ohm load only matters on mechanical mods or those running high powered regulated mods at their limit.

Personally I can't stand a large mass of wire that heats slow and won't cool off quick enough. You release the button and it continues to cook your wick for ten seconds.

Those who like running 70 - 100 watts are doing so because of the large amount of wire that must be heated, therefore they really are just wasting power. I can get the same vape with smaller wire and less power, also my wick lasts longer and my juice tastes better.

And yes there are regulated devices that can't handle low ohm loads or can't handle them well.

On temperature control you don't get more accurate control with lower ohms, if you do the device is not very good.

I see the point, and I guess that is why folks like higher ohm coils. It is hard to tell nowadays what mod a person is using. I usually run 0.10 and if I left out the TC portion I bet folks would think I am some uber sub-ohm cloud chaser.

I have been following the beyond ni200 thread and my pick up some SS to fool with. I like ni200 personally as it has been super reliable and repeatable for me, but the lack of structural integrity does kinda suck. I decided to twist some kanthal and ni200 and experienced the same thing I did with twisted kanthal... Accelerated funking due to the nice little pockets that trap juice remnants. I don't see how those folks with the staple, alien, clapton, et al don't experience the same. Sure it looks pretty, but how well does it work for a day, two, or a week of vaping? I guess the vapers that do it not to smoke care for the longevity factor vice the youtube glamour factor, and in the end and we end up with new "breakthroughs" like rayon and alternative wires to use.
 

Kaezziel

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:thumb: This... Especially since it only seems to be leaking when the tank is more that 70% full... I'm guessing that's right around the same point. The juice is leaking into the chamber through the chimney, and then out through the air holes.
 

TrollDragon

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TrollDragon

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Hey guys, what is causing my Kayfun to flood - too much wick, too little, or neither one? It floods whenever I fill up the tank beyond 70%.
Also is this flood immediately after you have filled it past 70%? When you put the screw back in, invert and it is all flooded and gurgly? If that is the case you are filling it too fast and pumping juice into the chimney area.

On a bottom fill KFL I always give a little squeeze and suck back some air from the tank, give a little squeeze again and suck back some air from the tank, but I use a high VG juice. Once it starts to get full I tilt the unit on a 45 degree angle and if you do it slowly you can fill it to 99% leaving a little air bubble near the fill hole. This is not recommended as the tank does need some space to create a vacuum, I like mine full so I do it anyway. :D

The recommendation is to leave 10% air space in the tank...
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10% on my 10ml extension is a whole ml of juice that I wouldn't have to vape with... :shock:

IGNORE the Sacrilegious Artifacts in the picture guys...
 

Kaezziel

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Yeah, I don't have a Kayfun, but I was thinking between 2a and 2b. At least, that's where I would think the leak is... I'd definitely make sure that part is nice and snug if there's no O-ring there. Of course, if that's where the problem is, you could always put a really thin O-ring there anyway. Other than that, the only other part that could be causing your leakage would depend on where it's leaking out of. If it's coming out of the air holes, then you'll need more wick. If it's leaking at the body, then you've got a bad O-ring.
 

TrollDragon

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Yeah, I don't have a Kayfun, but I was thinking between 2a and 2b. At least, that's where I would think the leak is... I'd definitely make sure that part is nice and snug if there's no O-ring there. Of course, if that's where the problem is, you could always put a really thin O-ring there anyway. Other than that, the only other part that could be causing your leakage would depend on where it's leaking out of. If it's coming out of the air holes, then you'll need more wick. If it's leaking at the body, then you've got a bad O-ring.
Any vacuum leak and it will pour right on through, up the juice channel and out the air hole. That chimney gets warm so an o-ring in there would probably not be a good idea. I have never had any of those chimney sections leak and they only need to be finger tight.

You have to leave the juice channels open with the wick pulled away from them as well so it can feed properly. too little a wick on the flood deck will allow for flooding too.
 
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