Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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Ni200/Rayon/DNA40 update
I'm really not getting longer wick life with temp control, but I'm pretty new to this device, so maybe I can do some adjusting and get a vape that I like at a cooler temperature. So far I've had to keep the temp up around 440 degrees for a satisfactory vape, and that doesn't seem to be cool enough to control gunking and prolong wick life. I managed to run about 35ml through my last build, which is just about average for this particular juice.
edit: it's pretty cool to be able to run your tank completely dry and still not get a dry hit!...yes, there was bourbon involved
I'm really not getting longer wick life with temp control, but I'm pretty new to this device, so maybe I can do some adjusting and get a vape that I like at a cooler temperature. So far I've had to keep the temp up around 440 degrees for a satisfactory vape, and that doesn't seem to be cool enough to control gunking and prolong wick life. I managed to run about 35ml through my last build, which is just about average for this particular juice.
edit: it's pretty cool to be able to run your tank completely dry and still not get a dry hit!...yes, there was bourbon involved
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Oh no! Well now I'll have to throw away my rayon.
Yeah, it seemed to get wacky over there pretty quick, oh well. I'm happy with my Rayon and the coil jig I made myself., to each... their own.
That actually isn't a bad idea. But I had to laugh when I read your post, it reminded me of when I twisted wrenches. Every time we got a green kid wanting to be a mechanic they would put him next to me in the shop, like I was supposed to hold their hands. When ever they would ask me what the torque specs were for something I'd point to the rack of shop manuals and tell them "either look it up or tighten the first one until it breaks then go a little less on the rest."
Funny thing, perception. Because what one perceives to be true, IS true- to them, on that day. Case in point, I recently I mentioned rayon wick was good and while some readily agreed, there were a couple who insisted that ALL coil/wicks take at least a day to come around before they're at their best. So I guess the old saw about equines and dihydrogen monoxide still holds true.
I am really, really liking the rayon wick 
All 3 of my first builds have been... flawless. Flavor, performance, wicking: the best I have experienced since starting to rebuild. The true test is when I rewick my Fogger V2 later on tonight. That one has always had wicking issues, and it took the longest to "get right" even with cotton; it either leaks or burns. After nearly 8 months, I had finally perfected my wicking with cotton. And now I am ready to change it up to rayon wick.
I'm stil planning on using KGD in the drippers that I own, just because I recently purchased more Japanese cotton just before I picked up the rayon wick. I'll keep the rayon wick for the RTAs, which I use on more of a daily basis, and which need the improved circulation.
All 3 of my first builds have been... flawless. Flavor, performance, wicking: the best I have experienced since starting to rebuild. The true test is when I rewick my Fogger V2 later on tonight. That one has always had wicking issues, and it took the longest to "get right" even with cotton; it either leaks or burns. After nearly 8 months, I had finally perfected my wicking with cotton. And now I am ready to change it up to rayon wick.
I'm stil planning on using KGD in the drippers that I own, just because I recently purchased more Japanese cotton just before I picked up the rayon wick. I'll keep the rayon wick for the RTAs, which I use on more of a daily basis, and which need the improved circulation.
And I see absolutely nothing wrong w/that. Because in the bigger scheme of things the most important thing is that we're vaping, not smoking tobacco! Besides there's always the option for further experimentation w/rayon wicks in other attys as time permits and needs dictate.I am really, really liking the rayon wick
All 3 of my first builds have been... flawless. Flavor, performance, wicking: the best I have experienced since starting to rebuild. The true test is when I rewick my Fogger V2 later on tonight. That one has always had wicking issues, and it took the longest to "get right" even with cotton; it either leaks or burns. After nearly 8 months, I had finally perfected my wicking with cotton. And now I am ready to change it up to rayon wick.
I'm stil planning on using KGD in the drippers that I own, just because I recently purchased more Japanese cotton just before I picked up the rayon wick. I'll keep the rayon wick for the RTAs, which I use on more of a daily basis, and which need the improved circulation.
I've never actually used cotton, the "cotton" I thought I was using came from a vitamin bottle as the packing and I thought it was cotton only to later learn it was rayon all along. That said, I did have a learning curve but I would have had that, regardless of whether I was using cotton or rayon. And actually by not having to 'unlearn' cotton, I only went through it once.
Hardest thing to get my head around was how thin the tails can, and should, be. Just seems counterintuitive, but all I do know is it works really, really well.
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I am really, really liking the rayon wick
All 3 of my first builds have been... flawless. Flavor, performance, wicking: the best I have experienced since starting to rebuild. The true test is when I rewick my Fogger V2 later on tonight. That one has always had wicking issues, and it took the longest to "get right" even with cotton; it either leaks or burns. After nearly 8 months, I had finally perfected my wicking with cotton. And now I am ready to change it up to rayon wick.
I'm stil planning on using KGD in the drippers that I own, just because I recently purchased more Japanese cotton just before I picked up the rayon wick. I'll keep the rayon wick for the RTAs, which I use on more of a daily basis, and which need the improved circulation.
jefsview don't wick that Fogger the same way you have been with cotton! I had trouble with my Fogger with rayon, I kept making the tails too thick and I was shoving them into the juice channels. Thin at least 75% off the tails and cut them so them just rest on top of the juice channels, don't tuck them in. My tails end up very thinned and very short, once trimmed I'll wet them and lay them against the posts so they are out of the way and don't get caught in the threads when I screw the chimney body on. Once the chimney body is on I'll take a very fine needle and gently slide the ends of the tails so the set over the tops of the channels and I'm done messing with it. For me, that's what has worked best in my Fogger and I don't get any flooding. Let us know how you make out with it, when you get it right that Fogger is great.
jefsview don't wick that Fogger the same way you have been with cotton! I had trouble with my Fogger with rayon, I kept making the tails too thick and I was shoving them into the juice channels. Thin at least 75% off the tails and cut them so them just rest on top of the juice channels, don't tuck them in. My tails end up very thinned and very short, once trimmed I'll wet them and lay them against the posts so they are out of the way and don't get caught in the threads when I screw the chimney body on. Once the chimney body is on I'll take a very fine needle and gently slide the ends of the tails so the set over the tops of the channels and I'm done messing with it. For me, that's what has worked best in my Fogger and I don't get any flooding. Let us know how you make out with it, when you get it right that Fogger is great.
Thanks. Yes, that was what I had planned to do... and how it was eventually undertaken. So far, working well. Had a bit of leakage after filling, as per usual with the Fogger, but it was easily and quickly vaped off. There isn't a lot of room in the Fogger V1/2 base section, but my new precision scissors and tiny jeweler's screwdriver were able to fit and trim.
I have 8 total RTA's in circulation, and have only 2 left to rewick with the rayon wick now. The Fogger was the hard one, and it worked on the first try. Wicking with rayon just makes me feel good
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It's actually the best performance I've experienced with it. Once installed, the rayon wick just seems to keep on giving
I ordered this from http://www.mielkesfarm.com/manmadef.htm
I'm hoping I got the right stuff. From the description it looks like it.
Tencel Top: White. "TENCEL®, made from wood pulp cellulose, offers a unique combination of the most desirable properties of man made and natural fibers: soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool and as absorbent as cotton. TENCEL® absorbs excess liquid and quickly releases it again into the atmosphere. In contrast to synthetic fibers, with reduced wicking properties, TENCEL® offers unique moisture transport. The completely new nano technology of TENCEL® supports this natural fiber property, guaranteeing optimum conditions for the skin. Synthetic fibers cannot absorb moisture into the inside of the fiber. In contrast to cotton and Modal fibers, TENCEL® controls and regularly absorbs moisture. Also TENCEL® absorbs 50 % more moisture than cotton. By contrast polyester does not absorb moisture. Compared to other fibers, TENCEL® features the highest moisture absorption-rate: with air humidity at 65 %, TENCEL® still has unused capacity to absorb moisture. TENCEL® is a godsend for anyone with sensitive skin. TENCEL® is chemical free, an important factor for sensitive skin and another asset in comparison to other fibers of a natural origin. TENCEL® knows no limits. 100 % Organic. The basis is a natural raw material. TENCEL® is extracted from wood pulp and is 100 % biodegradable. The wood used comes from tree farms that practice sustainability. Wearing TENCEL® makes you feel good."
TENCEL Top, $10.00 per 1/2lb. #119112
I'm hoping I got the right stuff. From the description it looks like it.
Tencel Top: White. "TENCEL®, made from wood pulp cellulose, offers a unique combination of the most desirable properties of man made and natural fibers: soft as silk, strong as polyester, cool as linen, warm as wool and as absorbent as cotton. TENCEL® absorbs excess liquid and quickly releases it again into the atmosphere. In contrast to synthetic fibers, with reduced wicking properties, TENCEL® offers unique moisture transport. The completely new nano technology of TENCEL® supports this natural fiber property, guaranteeing optimum conditions for the skin. Synthetic fibers cannot absorb moisture into the inside of the fiber. In contrast to cotton and Modal fibers, TENCEL® controls and regularly absorbs moisture. Also TENCEL® absorbs 50 % more moisture than cotton. By contrast polyester does not absorb moisture. Compared to other fibers, TENCEL® features the highest moisture absorption-rate: with air humidity at 65 %, TENCEL® still has unused capacity to absorb moisture. TENCEL® is a godsend for anyone with sensitive skin. TENCEL® is chemical free, an important factor for sensitive skin and another asset in comparison to other fibers of a natural origin. TENCEL® knows no limits. 100 % Organic. The basis is a natural raw material. TENCEL® is extracted from wood pulp and is 100 % biodegradable. The wood used comes from tree farms that practice sustainability. Wearing TENCEL® makes you feel good."
TENCEL Top, $10.00 per 1/2lb. #119112
Damn, I ordered going off of this post. Is the Tencel no good?
I use Tencel and like it a lot.
All the different names are pretty much the same thing. The names change depending on the process used to make it. Some processes are a little more environmentally friendly than others but the end product is pretty much the same.
By the way the Tencel I am using was sent to me by JeremyR.
All the different names are pretty much the same thing. The names change depending on the process used to make it. Some processes are a little more environmentally friendly than others but the end product is pretty much the same.
By the way the Tencel I am using was sent to me by JeremyR.
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