I have a Marquis but have yet to try it with nickel. If I ever do, I will build it like the following...
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
- Thread starter JeremyR
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I have a Marquis but have yet to try it with nickel. If I ever do, I will build it like the following...
I have a Marquis but have yet to try it with nickel. If I ever do, I will build it like the following...
JAX,
For a dripper that looks like the most efficient way to build it. Actually looking at that build makes me want to go out and buy one. The only thing holding me back is I don't want to get into a competition with AMD's collection.
JAX,
For a dripper that looks like the most efficient way to build it. Actually looking at that build makes me want to go out and buy one. The only thing holding me back is I don't want to get into a competition with AMD's collection.
Come on, it is all about good sport. You know, you want it
Come on, it is all about good sport. You know, you want it
Ah - what can I say. You are right I do want it but you could have let me live in my dream world and put the blame on you as the reason I don't have one.
Actually every time someone post a picture of the Marquis it makes me want one even more. It just looks like a (in the words of Rip Tripper) a "Cloud Chucker".
Actually every time someone post a picture of the Marquis it makes me want one even more. It just looks like a (in the words of Rip Tripper) a "Cloud Chucker".
It's not really a cloud chucker per se. The Marquis is supposed to be more of a flavor chaser's atty. Unfortunately, I have been unsuccessful building it in that regard thus far. I prefer my Hobo so far but haven't put enough builds on the Marquis to be sure.
I'm finding out that with my PT2 coil heads, if I distort the coil little bit during wicking and the spacing of the wraps are not uniform, gunk starts forming between the wraps that are spaced closer to each other.
When the coil gets distorted a bit, some of the spacing goes down to 1 mm and that 1 mm between the wraps seems to promote faster gunking. I'll shoot for 3 mm if I can.
I think the juice between the two closely spaced wraps cooks the juice to a higher degree temperature and causes the gunk form in between them.
If I try to force the wick too much through the coil, it tends to enlarge the first wrap of the coil. That extra length of the coil is "generated" by reducing the spacing between some the wraps.
To increase spacing between the wraps, I dropped from seven to six wraps and I think the coil is performing better in terms of gunking. I might even go down to five wraps with more spacing between the wraps and see if the coil lasts longer.
When the coil gets distorted a bit, some of the spacing goes down to 1 mm and that 1 mm between the wraps seems to promote faster gunking. I'll shoot for 3 mm if I can.
I think the juice between the two closely spaced wraps cooks the juice to a higher degree temperature and causes the gunk form in between them.
If I try to force the wick too much through the coil, it tends to enlarge the first wrap of the coil. That extra length of the coil is "generated" by reducing the spacing between some the wraps.
To increase spacing between the wraps, I dropped from seven to six wraps and I think the coil is performing better in terms of gunking. I might even go down to five wraps with more spacing between the wraps and see if the coil lasts longer.
Ah - what can I say. You are right I do want it but you could have let me live in my dream world and put the blame on you as the reason I don't have one.
Actually every time someone post a picture of the Marquis it makes me want one even more. It just looks like a (in the words of Rip Tripper) a "Cloud Chucker".
I thought you meant these words:
I usually reposition the wraps with a needle after wicking if they become uneven... It helps if, when the wick stops on the first normal pull; to stretch from the other end while at the same time pulling it through. It will start to move through the coil again when its at a good density.
This effectively creates the density needed for me during the wicking process instead of trying to guess before hand... Before hand I just make sure I have plenty available to pull down the density. I don't worry about waste.
Last edited:
I usually reposition the wraps with a needle after wicking if they become uneven... It helps if, when the wick stops on the first normal pull; to stretch from the other end while at the same time pulling it through. It will start to move through the coil again when its at a good density.
This effectively creates the density needed for me during the wicking process instead of trying to guess before hand... Before hand I just make sure I have plenty available to pull down the density. I don't worry about waste.
Thanks. I also reposition the wraps with a toothpick. It definitely helps but in some cases, I can't recover the original shape of the coil due to the distorted outer wraps.
I think also the long coil legs are causing the distortion. I mean the coil has too many degrees of freedom with these thin legs. If I were using an RTA with a coil with almost no legs, then some of this distortion wouldn't happen.
Make use of the edges of the juice channels to help stabilize the coil while you're wicking (pretend your wick is a mandrel). That way, your coil only moves laterally, not all cockeyed or up and down, mangling your legs. It definitely needs to be finessed in there - you can't go all man on it.
Also, a needle has a better point and less give than a toothpick, so you might have better control with it when you're repositioning.
Last edited:
Make use of the edges of the juice channels to help stabilize the coil while you're wicking (pretend your wick is a mandrel). That way, your coil only moves laterally, not all cockeyed or up and down, mangling your legs. It definitely needs to be finessed in there - you can't go all man on it.
Thank you very much. These are great tips. I'll try to use the juice channels next time.
I also need to "clean" the rayon from any "fiber disconnects", making sure that I'm only using long strands of continuous fiber.
Where do you rest the coil head when wicking? I can't screw it in the base+battery since the head sinks into the base. I hold it in my hand which restricts my dexterity during wicking. I think I might need something like "Helping Hands".
Ah, that's why...it's that kind of head...I don't think I'd be able to wick with one hand.
I had the old-school universal Evod/PT2 type heads, so they were still exposed when I screwed them into the base. How about one of these?
Last edited:
Ah, that's why...it's that kind of head...I don't think I'd be able to wick with one hand.
I had the old-school universal Evod/PT2 type heads, so they were still exposed when I screwed them into the base. How about one of these?
That should do it, very robustly
I was thinking about these too, but less robust
http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
That should do it, very robustly
I was thinking about these too, but less robust
http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
Chinook,
I have used those and they are not very strong in the sense that the joints won't take very much pressure without slipping. Actually my opinion is they will drive you crazy because they can never be tightened down enough to stay put.
Get Cindy's table vice and a magnifier head band.
That should do it, very robustly
I was thinking about these too, but less robust
http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html
Those aluminum mini-vises are tinier than they look in the pic. (click on the pic, it'll take you to the eBay listing for specs) Just like pics of coils and atties - they look huge, then you get them in your hand and they're microscopic.
I don't think you'd be able to get enough tension with the helping hands (I have one, it's sitting in a drawer). I think those teeth were designed to hold wire in place as you're soldering - other than that, they're pretty flimsy.When you get into modding your atties and drilling airholes bigger than your head,
that vise will come in handy.
Last edited:
Chinook,
I have used those and they are not very strong in the sense that the joints won't take very much pressure without slipping. Actually my opinion is they will drive you crazy because they can never be tightened down enough to stay put.
Get Cindy's table vice and a magnifier head band.
haha I've been using 3.5x magnifying reading glasses from the dollar store. That's after I knelt on the magnifier lens on my visor and snapped it in half.
Ah, that's why...it's that kind of head...I don't think I'd be able to wick with one hand.
I had the old-school universal Evod/PT2 type heads, so they were still exposed when I screwed them into the base. How about one of these?
If you have lowes close by they have these and are a wonderful 3rd hand
Chinook,
I have used those and they are not very strong in the sense that the joints won't take very much pressure without slipping. Actually my opinion is they will drive you crazy because they can never be tightened down enough to stay put.
Get Cindy's table vice and a magnifier head band.
Thank you
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
