FWIW I dry burn (at 600 and with no TP) and re-wick 28awg Tempco Ni200 regularly. Last coil was wicked 8 times before it snapped.
Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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FWIW I dry burn (at 600 and with no TP) and re-wick 28awg Tempco Ni200 regularly. Last coil was wicked 8 times before it snapped.
Tempered ni 200?
Spaced or contact?
Not sure annealed ni behaves the same. I just reported what happened to my wire and it becomes brittle as you can tear it apart with you bare fingers.
8 times huh? That's great
Regards
Tony
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Spaced or contact?
Not sure annealed ni behaves the same. I just reported what happened to my wire and it becomes brittle as you can tear it apart with you bare fingers.
8 times huh? That's great
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Anyone know how long the current turnaround time is for rma dna40 boards sent into evolve right now, one of mine nerds to go back? ..thanks guys
Hey, AMD, thanks again for the drill press hint. It got here Thursday, after the blizzard that wasn't, and for a "cheapie" it seems really decent. I've already used it to modify air flow on an Aspire, trying to get a decent vape off of it, and it handles a semi-dull bit and drilling chromed brass very nicely. I'm waiting for the vice before I try working on the Fogger base, I don't want it walking or squirming.
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I bought mines from Protovapor. One was defective. They issued RMA (with paid shipping label). They sent me a new replacement DNA40 board on the same day I shipped the defective one back to them. After that, they fixed my defective board and offered it back to me for $40.00 as refurbished. That's the one you saw in my home-made flask right now. Over-all, even that Protovapor is NOT the cheapest place to get DNA40, but I am very pleased with their service.
The other board will go in my new project. I'm trying to make a 18650 DNA40 Tube mod. I'm making a detachable head for Nemesis Mod. Sort of like Cyborg or Big Nasty. Only not as big and/or nasty as this one:
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You are very welcome, sir.
Just, please make sure you are using new, sharp Cobalt drill bits when you are drilling stainless.
I have a fresh package of new cobalt bits just itching to be chucked and reserved for that purpose only.
Tempered ni 200?
Spaced or contact?
Not sure annealed ni behaves the same. I just reported what happened to my wire and it becomes brittle as you can tear it apart with you bare fingers.
8 times huh? That's great
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Tempered and spaced. Rayon wick of course. Maybe I just got lucky, however that is the first coil that broke, others were changed while still functional.
Yes. My previous kanthal 32 gauge coil lasted 3 months before being replaced with a ni and it was still fine when I removed it. Yours probably became brittle too but not enough to snap after the first dry burn. I admit I did mess a little with the shape as I wanted to align it better with the air hole and albeit I didn't move the coil much, it was enough for it to snap so it had lost at least part of its resilience.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Regards
Tony
Sent from my phone through a keyboard (or something like that)
Yeah kanthal is tougher... I`m going to keep doing what I`m doing for now. In a few months I may have a clue.
OK guys. Here is how I make my Ribbon coils. As you all know, if you make a perfect ribbon coil, attach it to your wire posts and dry fire - it will get warped. Some winds will contract and some will expend. It is going to be a mess. In order for that not to happen. After I wind my coil, I would torch it a little bit (not to red-hot) allowing it to settle down and hold it's own shape without any support from the wire posts. And if my ribbon coil can hold it's shape while being heated on it's own, then It will not change it's shape when I attach it to the device and dry fire it. Only then I put it on my atomizer.
Example:
The reason that I brought it up is that I'm going to try to use the Tempered Ni200 just the same way and will see what happens.
Example:
The reason that I brought it up is that I'm going to try to use the Tempered Ni200 just the same way and will see what happens.
I have a question:
Now, that I have my Foxnovo D4S charger that is capable of Charging then Discharging, then Charging again to measure the battery's actual capacity in mAH.
I ran bunch of batteries through it. Most of them the mAH was right on the money. So I know - it is somewhat accurate.
Yesterday, I received four new Sony US18650VTC5 batteries. The vendor swore that they are authentic VTC5's from his old stock. I ran them through my charger and all four of them showed 1600 - 1700 mAH.
I used the web authenticity visual identifier and they look to be an authentic Sony batteries.
Do the Li-Ion batteries need to be Charged - Discharged several times in order for them to gain their maximum mAH capacity?
Because I think I've been sold re-printed VTC3 batteries of 1600 mAH.
Any input before I make a stink with that vendor?
Thanks.
Mike.
Now, that I have my Foxnovo D4S charger that is capable of Charging then Discharging, then Charging again to measure the battery's actual capacity in mAH.
I ran bunch of batteries through it. Most of them the mAH was right on the money. So I know - it is somewhat accurate.
Yesterday, I received four new Sony US18650VTC5 batteries. The vendor swore that they are authentic VTC5's from his old stock. I ran them through my charger and all four of them showed 1600 - 1700 mAH.
I used the web authenticity visual identifier and they look to be an authentic Sony batteries.
Do the Li-Ion batteries need to be Charged - Discharged several times in order for them to gain their maximum mAH capacity?
Because I think I've been sold re-printed VTC3 batteries of 1600 mAH.
Any input before I make a stink with that vendor?
Thanks.
Mike.
I think that's exactly what happened, could be worse, at least you got vtc 3s ....who is the vendor? I believe it's your duty to out them. .
AMD, I suspect they may be re-wraps but that is just a guess.
As far as cycling to reach full capacity is concerned, I am not an expert on batteries but it is my understanding that lithium based based batteries do go through a "break-in" period before they reach full, rated, capacity. I have no direct reference for that, but it seems to be true from tests performed by a friend with a computer based battery analyzer. Whether it is true for every permutation of lithium chemistries is yet another variable.
As far as cycling to reach full capacity is concerned, I am not an expert on batteries but it is my understanding that lithium based based batteries do go through a "break-in" period before they reach full, rated, capacity. I have no direct reference for that, but it seems to be true from tests performed by a friend with a computer based battery analyzer. Whether it is true for every permutation of lithium chemistries is yet another variable.
Batteries, these cells in particular, definitely have a break in period, but it would never be that far off, not even close. Who was the vendor?
I drilled out the top caps on my AGA T2s today, sorta
I had one drilled out but feared I wouldn't like them all done. After months of one, my wife's RSST adjustable caps wide open, and now the Rogue, I needed to open up the rest.
I drilled the first one with a variable speed drill and regular bit months ago. Didn't seem hard. Batteries won't charge so I got out the Dremel. Burned up the first bit. Second bit wasn't doing it. Got out the round ball grinders from the Dremel. Chamfered the holes with the big one and went through with the small one. No idea what size it is but it works.
Guess I do need better bits in the future.
I had one drilled out but feared I wouldn't like them all done. After months of one, my wife's RSST adjustable caps wide open, and now the Rogue, I needed to open up the rest.
I drilled the first one with a variable speed drill and regular bit months ago. Didn't seem hard. Batteries won't charge so I got out the Dremel. Burned up the first bit. Second bit wasn't doing it. Got out the round ball grinders from the Dremel. Chamfered the holes with the big one and went through with the small one. No idea what size it is but it works.
Guess I do need better bits in the future.
Let me run yet another test overnight, you will see the results tomorrow.
Then I will know foe sure and reveal the vendor.
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