Red Sky Mods - Part Two

[Capt' Brian]

According to this video
A PBusardo Review - The Opus D & The DNA-20 - YouTube
around the 25:30 mark he fires a .7x ohm RSST on his Opus D no problem.
As or the battery life I havn't owned a dna 20D mod yet but I do know I was very suprised by my old Darwin's battery life. Which is the main reason my dream RSM would be a dna 20D Feeder with dual 1200 or 1500 mah battery packs. Now a 26650 might just fit the bill or dual 18650 (parallell) would be great also. But battery life and no feeder option are my main 2 reasons I doubt I will ever own an Opus.

Very informative video, thanks for posting. Kinda pricey imho though, but I could be wrong and maybe people are right that I am still undervaluing my work too much. I've said it before, but I think the dollar has more value the older you are in life.....

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Ahoy all!

Well, I like the DNA20 option more and more and it gives me more flexibility in construction planning. I just wish I liked the way the OLED screen is mounted to the PCB better. As for the battery packs, I've always steered clear of them due to the fact that they will eventually die.

With replaceable cylindrical batteries that will never be a issue that will sideline a mod until the battery is desoldered and a new one soldered in place. Besides, any battery pack I have seen myself has merely been cylindrical batteries mounted inside a square box. The common 9v battery and laptop battery packs are good examples of that.

I know size is an issue, it always is, but If I go with a 26650 battery for longer life, the dimensions must increase somewhere. If anyone has ever opened up a RSM they can see that I don't waste much space, just enough extra wood to support covers, lids, magnets and screw holes.

I've got a lot to think about, but, time to get to work again on the batch. Have a nice day

arrr

 

[fright88]

Very informative video, thanks for posting. Kinda pricey imho though, but I could be wrong and maybe people are right that I am still undervaluing my work too much. I've said it before, but I think the dollar has more value the older you are in life.....

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Ahoy all!

Well, I like the DNA20 option more and more and it gives me more flexibility in construction planning. I just wish I liked the way the OLED screen is mounted to the PCB better. As for the battery packs, I've always steered clear of them due to the fact that they will eventually die.

With replaceable cylindrical batteries that will never be a issue that will sideline a mod until the battery is desoldered and a new one soldered in place. Besides, any battery pack I have seen myself has merely been cylindrical batteries mounted inside a square box. The common 9v battery and laptop battery packs are good examples of that.

I know size is an issue, it always is, but If I go with a 26650 battery for longer life, the dimensions must increase somewhere. If anyone has ever opened up a RSM they can see that I don't waste much space, just enough extra wood to support covers, lids, magnets and screw holes.

I've got a lot to think about, but, time to get to work again on the batch. Have a nice day

arrr

Cappy your mods are great and for being hand crafted quality wood the price isn't bad at all. I would say you are priced low to middle of the pack for quality stuff. As for the DNA 20D stuff from what I have seen it looks like they will all be in the 200-300 price range.

As for batteries if you are going to make a tank inset mod to accomodate a 23mm tank the size wouldn't have to increase much for a 26mm battery. For the feeder version you could either make it a 26650 or an alternative could be a dual 18650 in parallel that would keep the depth the same and only increase the width by about 2 cm The + side to that would be you could run it with 1 battery if you wanted or put a pair of 18650 batts in it for a total of up to 4500 mah total capacity

 

[fright88]

Been a little dead around here this weekend. Hope everyone is having fun!!

 

[rtrain99]

Ahoy Cappy,
Been catching up with the thread. This goes to my original idea of a King kong monkeboxx sized RSM

 

[rtrain99]

It sure would be bigger, catch a lot if attention, and be a great conversional piece. That would be fun to have. Bottom feeder or otherwise, you can count me in.

 

[rtrain99]

To refresh everyone's memory I suggested a KKVv sized RSM, 20 ml feeder bottle, stacked 26550, DNA 20. The problem with the KKVv was the huge catch cup. Replace that with a standard catch cup and there you go an RSM Galleon. Easily can be converted to a 22mm hole for new age tanks, with room to spare.

 

[Capt' Brian]

Ahoy, happy Monday!

Well rt, I can avoid the monster size of a huge mod by using just a wider battery like the 26650. I originally thought it taller too but have been corrected so have been playing with designs as time permits.

The long layout of the DNA20 board will make it difficult to use in other than a Destroyer type body. I can extend the DNA20 board the whole length of one side of a Destroyer with room for a 1" diameter inset tank to a depth of 1".

For a Cutlass model the current design won't work if I want to place the controls and screen inside the box, but the smaller footprint of the Vamo board would fit with some adjustments. It might be necessary to use both of these board types to keep the current designs and only make them a bit bigger to fit the fatter battery. At all costs I want to avoid a 'monster' mod if I can.

 

[rtrain99]

Looking forward to seeing the prototypes nonetheless. It will be intrigued in what you come up with. Although the Sea Monster does raise my ire. I realize the practicality issues, but would love to see/ have one one day.

 

[Waho]

You can definitely count me in for a dna20 destroyer xl, I've got some 22mm attys forced to be on metal tubes! That's no way to vape!

 

[fright88]

Just my .02 I would love a DNA20D Cutlass but would probably hold off on a Vamo powered one. The sub ohm compatability is the killer for me.

 

[Capt' Brian]

Just my .02 I would love a DNA20D Cutlass but would probably hold off on a Vamo powered one. The sub ohm compatability is the killer for me.

Hmm, I'm not sure how I could mount a DNA board into a cutlass. The length of the board plus ribbon cable and display is well over 2 inches long I think (sitting in bed with my laptop, cant check). No way it would fit unless i folded the display back on itself to make the length half of what it currently is. Possible though, I'll play with it and see if it can be done.

 

[fright88]

Hmm, I'm not sure how I could mount a DNA board into a cutlass. The length of the board plus ribbon cable and display is well over 2 inches long I think (sitting in bed with my laptop, cant check). No way it would fit unless i folded the display back on itself to make the length half of what it currently is. Possible though, I'll play with it and see if it can be done.

Seems to me like a lot of the modders do fold it back on itself. So I don't think that would be much of an issue. I am however just one person so maybe others might want to chime in on their thoughts.

 

[Waho]

I can remember one mod specifically (with instructions to build it yourself) that has the screen folded over and attached to the board. It did say be very careful as the the cable is fragile though.

 

[chet]

my 2 cent is... that... I HAVE NO IDEA!

 

[Capt' Brian]

Ahoy. Here we go, another day on the high seas ..

Just my .02 I would love a DNA20D Cutlass but would probably hold off on a Vamo powered one. The sub ohm compatability is the killer for me.

What is the advantage of the very low ohm coils compared to the traditional coils that run around 2 ohms? It seems to me that the more wraps of wire around the wick the better the surface contact with the juice that has saturated it.

How many wraps does a sub ohm coil have on the wick usually? I'm trying to see the advantage of them?

 

[2423kids]

Ahoy. Here we go, another day on the high seas ..




What is the advantage of the very low ohm coils compared to the traditional coils that run around 2 ohms? It seems to me that the more wraps of wire around the wick the better the surface contact with the juice that has saturated it.

How many wraps does a sub ohm coil have on the wick usually? I'm trying to see the advantage of them?

AGREE!!! Not sure WHY all this sub-ohm stuff ????

 

[fright88]

Ahoy. Here we go, another day on the high seas ..




What is the advantage of the very low ohm coils compared to the traditional coils that run around 2 ohms? It seems to me that the more wraps of wire around the wick the better the surface contact with the juice that has saturated it.

How many wraps does a sub ohm coil have on the wick usually? I'm trying to see the advantage of them?

Most people that are using low ohm stuff are doing it on mechanicals or un regulated devices. Typically you are using a much thicker guage wire to do it so you still get your wrap amount just at a lower ohm. The advantage for a VV/VW device that accepts sub ohm coils is the ability to take one rba off a mechanical mod and putting it directly onto the regulated device.

Obviously people have been ok without sub ohm regulated devices for a long time now but it would be a nice feature.

 

[Waho]

That's how I do it as well, many wraps of a larger gauge to attain higher (but still pretty low) resistance.

7 or 8 wraps of 30 gauge gets me to around 1.5 ohms, and has a hell of a lot of surface area. I have a drip atty setup with dual such coils and it vaporizes the heck out out some juice at 0.7 ohms.

 

[Waho]

Ahoy and good morning crew!

The countdown to my sister in laws wedding is drawing to a close, she gets married on Saturday. Things are pretty hectic getting the last minute things accomplished.

 

[aidreon]

Ahoy Crew!
Sub-ohm is only a good thing to have in a mech mod if you ask me, being able to get 20W+ out of a fresh battery using a 0.8ohms coil, and still getting around 12W out of a 3.4V battery, that's the only positive point. No need for that with a VW/VV mod
I'm personaly using some Ribbon 0.5, 3 wraps on a Kayfun 3.1 and a Paps, the vape is excellent and with this sub-ohm coil, I don't really feel the limitation of an unregulated mod. It hits like a freight train from the start and vapes at my exact personal sweet spot in the end

So basilcally, to me, I really don't care about a board that would accept sub-ohm coils. I think the DNA20 is ok with a 1.1(?), which is pretty low anyway, but I never ever made such a low coil on my VV devices, I usually get around 2 ohms with some .3 ribbon wire, that lets me go up and down easily and get the vape I like whenever I feel like it. Soft in the morning, strong in the evening (unlike my coffee!)
As for the Vamo board, one thing I don't really like about the way it vapes is that kind of snake rattle thing... the vape is not as smooth as the one you can get out of of DNA I believe. It vapes ok (I own a VAMO V2...use it to check my weird coils from time to time and make sure it doesn't short on my precious mods ), but I'm not really a big fan of the vaping experience it brings.

As for the DNA20 ribbon cable...they are quite fragile. they can handle a couple twist and you can fold them ok, but you'll have one or two that breaks from time to time for sure doing so.