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Capt' Brian

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Hmmm, I will wait for a bit more feedback on the DIY kit, then decide on a plan of attack. I can always alter the kit if people have some good suggestions later on.

Today went awesome in the shop, the tweaked design is going well. I brought my oldest son aboard and am showing him what is what and am teaching him how to use the shop tools, he's doing well so far. He's been a consultant for awhile, but now he is gonna assist in the tasks as well. Things are looking up me lads!

The two completed Mark-IV's are drying, they were a bit tacky today so another day to dry more. They came out a bit more glossy than I like but are looking good. The new mark-IV design will be a tad bit more narrow but no radical changes.

Arrr, things aren't sometimes always what they don't seem not to be! And you can take that to the bank ...

P.S., just noticed my new tag, 'not as good as i thought', someones been talking to my ex-wife!

Fair winds me hearties
 
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jcamacho

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I need some input. I believe I can now offer DIY kits, but I am unsure of the state of the parts I should supply. With a plastic kit, you have to cut wires, solder, bore holes (sometimes) and install the guts.

The less I do to the wood and parts, the less the cost will be. If I cut the parts to size, cut out the inside of the box, routed in all end cap edges, bored the button and atty hole, then stopped, would that be too much? Too little? The DIY person would have to do alot of sanding, and careful fitting of the parts then put on their own choice of finish.

As for the guts, again the less I have to do, so If I supply the basic hardware, wire, atty, metal and flex tubing, pushbutton, battery contacts and let the DIY person do all the cutting, sizing, soldering and assembly, would that be good? Bad?

Naturally I will supply a clear instruction sheet on how *I* would size and assemble parts as a guideline, but they could do as they please of course.

I would probably not offer a kit with exotic/toxic wood. It would keep the price down and simple precautions such as a dust mask would be adequate for working the wood.

When I personally buy a kit, I want to do as much as I can myself. I want all the major parts rough cut and I will do the rest.


Looking forward to your thoughts on this, Yar!!
You lost me already lol. If I could do all that, I would build my own mods and save a ton of money.
 

billherbst

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Oct 21, 2010
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I need some input. I believe I can now offer DIY kits, but I am unsure of the state of the parts I should supply. With a plastic kit, you have to cut wires, solder, bore holes (sometimes) and install the guts.

The less I do to the wood and parts, the less the cost will be. If I cut the parts to size, cut out the inside of the box, routed in all end cap edges, bored the button and atty hole, then stopped, would that be too much? Too little? The DIY person would have to do alot of sanding, and careful fitting of the parts then put on their own choice of finish.

As for the guts, again the less I have to do, so If I supply the basic hardware, wire, atty, metal and flex tubing, pushbutton, battery contacts and let the DIY person do all the cutting, sizing, soldering and assembly, would that be good? Bad?

Naturally I will supply a clear instruction sheet on how *I* would size and assemble parts as a guideline, but they could do as they please of course.

I would probably not offer a kit with exotic/toxic wood. It would keep the price down and simple precautions such as a dust mask would be adequate for working the wood.

When I personally buy a kit, I want to do as much as I can myself. I want all the major parts rough cut and I will do the rest.


Looking forward to your thoughts on this, Yar!!

Brian,

I think this is probably a trial-and-error "run it up the flagpole and see who salutes" kind of thing. Not that input during R&D isn't valuable (it is, and you have all of us shipmates to offer opinions), but my best guess is that whatever DIY kit you make available will 1) sell like hotcakes, 2) get lots of rave reviews, and 3) also provoke some not-altogether-positive feedback from landlubbers who want the kits to be different for one reason or another.

That is---as I'm sure you're well aware---the reality of the marketplace: We can't please all the people all the time.

I, for one, would be very willing to buy a kit from you no matter how you offer it---rough, nearly finished, whatever. Though I haven't yet bought a mod kit or put together a mod from scratch, I do enjoy DIYing much of what I buy. For instance, I considered getting a 2AA box 3.7V kit, but ended up buying 2 pre-made 2AA boxes during a sale at a new supplier website. Cost was $15 each shipped, versus $12 shipped for the kit. So for me, it'll come down to price.

Yesterday, one of your recent Scallywag feeders was up for sale in the classifieds at a nicely reduced price (by someone who clearly loves your work and is keeping one of your Mark II non-feeders). I almost pulled the trigger, but the woods weren't really what I wanted, so I passed. Today the ad is gone (at least I can't find it), so it must have sold very quickly, as we would expect, given the high quality of your work and steadily increasing fan base.

$3/hour profit, eh? Well, don't worry; soon you'll be pulling in big bucks ($5/hour, LOL). As someone who's been self-employed for 40 years, I truly hope this becomes a viable livelihood for you. Lord knows, you're a nice enough guy with all the requisite skills. The only caveat is the likelihood of harsh economic times ahead as the global economy goes belly up, causing supply chains to fail. Might be a wise plan to stock up now on parts---wood, connectors, wire, etc. No matter what comes down, though, more and more people will want to vape, so you'll probably have a market, and handmade products will almost surely be a big part of our collective future.
 

Capt' Brian

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Agree, well said Bill. I suppose you are correct, I will put together a kit that I would like to buy, and I have bought many many in my life time. I've said before, If I could have bought a DIY kit, I would have never been motivated to start doing it all myself.

I will start with a Mark-III kit and see how it goes, and try to keep the cost way down.

Thanks for the input, valuable input is always appreciated especially when I can directly apply it to my own situation.

Thanks again, Brian
 

Capt' Brian

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Avast! Here are the finished Mark-IV prototypes, the first two I would consider ready for sale.

Sorry for the delay, I had a two day pause in production for updating designs, maintenance on equipment, updating website and adding order functionality, cleaning and sorting. Lots of great new wood has come in, I'm looking forward to building with the new exotic woods.

The first is for Azzifel, Mahogany body and end caps with a large Melokhia inlay. I also gave it a semi-gloss finish.

Why do pics turn out pink when I take pics of mahogany? Arrrr....

Mark-IV Prototype #401



This one is intended for Jcamacho and is Black Walnut body with Yaya (white wenge) end caps, also a semi-gloss finish.

Mark-IV Prototype #P402



Both units have dual magnets and drip well inset around atty.

If either of these two salty dogs pass on the mods they will go up on the website for sale. Normal price for the Mark-4 will be $140, these two are $110 as they are prototypes and production units will be even better construction.

Mark-IV's are quite a bit harder to make, but the ol' Lady grabbed the rejected Monkey pod wood Mark-IV and has been using it for her drive to work... whatever makes her happy...

Yar!!

Oh yeah, don't forget, here is the website URL; Red Sky Mods
 
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Capt' Brian

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I know! It looks absolutely pink on my monitor. Don't know why the red saturates my camera like that. The actual color is a very deep dark red with lighter shadings of red running through it.

If you and azzifel still want them, shoot me a PM with your E-mail address and I shall send an invoice and get em shipped off for you two. If you would rather wait for the next build I understand, and I can build another just like it but with the slightly new 'tweaked' style of box.

Later, Yar...
 

Capt' Brian

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Well, end of another day. Two prototype Buccaneers ready to ship, 8 scallywag bottom feeders half done. Tomorrow I'm going to see what parts I need to stockpile and put together a half dozen scallywag DIY kits and see how that goes too.

Thinking about it, you know the design of a box mod is absurdly simple, you need a enclosure, access door, atty, switch and battery contact. The layouts you have are very limited, I mean, how many different ways can you mount a door? How creative can you be when mounting a switch? It's hard to do something new so the next best thing is do what is far from original in the best manner you can manage.

In just a few months I've gone from dreaming about making a wood mod for myself, to trying to provide mods to other people. I'm really very happy that now I have some firm designs that should no longer need altering, I wish they could be more original but what can you do.

I want to thank again the first people who bought my mods, the 'plank owners' so to speak, for trusting that I knew what the hell I was doing. I think the mods I have sold so far were as good as I could make, and are good, but the future ones will be even better. (I'm not touching the Mark-II design, its lovely already IMHO).

Sign up for another hitch me laddies, this ship is headin out for a grand tour, Yarrrr!

Night!
 

Capt' Brian

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G'day Drottwiler, hey all!

With 5 volts, I am using a 'standard' atty, when I vape 3.7V I use a lower resistance atty to better simulate a 5v vape.

Here is a little list I got off ECF previously, I don't remember where I got it tho.

3.7v w/ 3.2 ohm atty = 4.28 watts
3.7v w/ 2.5 ohm "standard" atty = 5.48 watts
3.7v w/ 1.7 ohm LR atty = 8.05 watts
3.7v w/ 3.2 ohm atty = 4.28 watts
3.7v w/ 2.5 ohm "standard" atty = 5.48 watts
3.7v w/ 1.7 ohm LR atty = 8.05 watts

5v w/ 2.5 ohm "standard" atty = 10 watts

6v w/ 2.5 ohm "standard" atty = 14.4 watts
6v w/ 3.2 ohm atty = 11.25 watts
6v w/ 4.5 ohm HV atty = 8 watts
 

spike39

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Jan 23, 2011
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Ok guys I have a ? I'm thinking about trying a 5vt what kind of addys are you all using on them?

I'm getting great performance with a 3 ohm MAP tank on my 5 v pine Red Sky (my very first mod) that Brian graciously gave me a deal on. I load it up with the thicker juices.. right now, BWB malty. I know you mentioned attys, but point being.. if you use 2.8 ohm and above, it should work depending on your preference for throat hit.
 

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Capt' Brian

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Nice looking mods! I enjoyed reading the process from the start of this thread till the end the tweaking and user feedback....

Looking good you Scallywagging sea dwelling Mod making Buccaneer....lol my piratese needs brushing up

Avast, Tis a right pleasure bein' able ta be understandin' mosta what done been said! Arrrrrr!!

Arrrr!

P.S., Yarrrrrr!!
 

Drottwiler

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I'm getting great performance with a 3 ohm MAP tank on my 5 v pine Red Sky (my very first mod) that Brian graciously gave me a deal on. I load it up with the thicker juices.. right now, BWB malty. I know you mentioned attys, but point being.. if you use 2.8 ohm and above, it should work depending on your preference for throat hit.

Hi spike
I don't know ohm or watts.Just stupid in that area.Is a regular 510 to low?ty for the help.
 
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