Agreed!
When I'm "working on" an atty.... if I can't get it to glow red in about a second or less, then I know I'm "not there" yet.
Removing the wick
- Thread starter phee
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Agreed!
When I'm "working on" an atty.... if I can't get it to glow red in about a second or less, then I know I'm "not there" yet.
good video! I don't even have an e-cig yet, but.. it is good to be informed about the anatomy of the atomizer. That might sound weird, but I'm a mechanic, so I prefer to know how things that I own work.
Ok, my oppinion. I was told a month ago by amanda at totally wicked that this works- removing the wick. My first try didnt work because I did it to an already burned up atty. I decided to try again becuase my 5v would NOT work with a 510..period. Once I removed the wick, it works like a champ. And I DO use carts..no need to drip anymore either. Doesnt leak much either, if at all. I also did this for my atty on teh titan. Both work better without wick than they ever did with. And both, I use carts. Just be sure you get ALL the wick out. If you get any stragler fibers, burnt taste will abound. If you get it done right, GOODBYE burnt taste..cause nothing to burn but bridge, which is metal...Just works like a charm...But You WILL be refilling carts, not topping off. Fluid flows much better. Now its 7 or 8 drops, not 2 or 3...No turning back for me. I like my wick free 510s
I did this on accident because i thought something had got in the atomizer. I dont see alot of difference really.
i had some extra 510 attys laying around and decided to give both removing the wick and bridge. . wow what a difference. . . working great so far. Though i have to say it is intimidating to actually see the coil heat up lol, gives you a better idea of how "fragile" it is.
But as a testament to the 510's . . i had my Spade in my pocket at work, the way i was sitting, the pocket was really tight and unknown to me the button was being pressed. I didn't notice it until i started feeling the "burn", and it hurt. So i pulled it out of my pocket, atty was hot, the body around the battery was hot, i could barely hold the thing. I thought it was gonna be dead after that. but after it cooled off everything was fine and it still worked
But as a testament to the 510's . . i had my Spade in my pocket at work, the way i was sitting, the pocket was really tight and unknown to me the button was being pressed. I didn't notice it until i started feeling the "burn", and it hurt. So i pulled it out of my pocket, atty was hot, the body around the battery was hot, i could barely hold the thing. I thought it was gonna be dead after that. but after it cooled off everything was fine and it still worked
I did this last night on a spare atomizer and it works great so far. The airflow seems a tad better. I have only tried a thicker custom VG /PG mix so far and had no flooding issues. The actual process was much harder for me than what I saw in the video. For once, this wick seemed perfectly packed under the bridge. Simply had to make a small hook on the end of a paper clip. Took a while but I didn't want to break the heating coil so I was taking extreme caution. I'll update in about 2 weeks.
I get that funky burnt taste with my BLU after a while. Until then, I love it - so no ragging on the BLU. Yes, a boiled down teakettle discribes it perfectly. I couldn't find any threads in the atty. When I poked it with a paperclip, it was metal on metal. I can only assume that not all atties have the strings.
And how do you manage to get all the way down into an RN4072 atty?
~A
And how do you manage to get all the way down into an RN4072 atty?
~A
i just think you should leave Blu i dont think that it even has threads but as for the RN4072 i've found it to be a bit harder to do but oddly (this may just be my experience) the RN4072 and the DSE801 don't seem to have the threads either
so i guess u couldnt benefit from it. i found that removing the wick most benefits 510 users =] hope that helps
I shouldn't have tried this with my very last, well-used 901 atty. I must have broken the coil. Sad face.
I yanked the threads out and then the bridge without reading this. The whole unit came really far up, but then i jammed it back down in with tweezers, and I can say it seems to have significantly improved both taste and vapor.
Is there any issue with the liquid getting past the coil/area when it has been dislodged and pushed back into place?
Edit: Also, removing the wick and the bridge should make it easier to transition flavors in the same atty since there is less "holding in" the flavor right?
Is there any issue with the liquid getting past the coil/area when it has been dislodged and pushed back into place?
Edit: Also, removing the wick and the bridge should make it easier to transition flavors in the same atty since there is less "holding in" the flavor right?
Remember that the mesh that you see on the bridge is only a small percentage of the total mesh in the atty. There is a lot more around the sides of the coil pot and underneath of it. All of this mesh holds some liquid.
Hi phee, the dse 801 does have the threads. I just removed them from 1 of mine.i just think you should leave Blu i dont think that it even has threads but as for the RN4072 i've found it to be a bit harder to do but oddly (this may just be my experience) the RN4072 and the DSE801 don't seem to have the threads either
Hey, phee, do you think the bend in these tweezers would make removing wicks a little easier? (from Roboz)
Maybe a curved "probe" would be better...
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there's much less of the "burnt taste" issue on the 801s but you can definitely do it but like i said: for some reason some of my fresh brand new 801s dont have threads - either that or i'm going blind! hahahaha but yeah, i take the last post back some of my 801s have threads and some don't - weird...
there's always risk of the liquid getting pass the main body of the atty which is why drippers all like 'sealed' batteries but as long as you're not overdoing it it'll be fine.
as for the flavor switching: yes you'll be changing flavors easier but keep in mind that the mesh lays throughout the inner lining of the atomizer so there's still quite a bit of mesh left even after removing the bridge.
yeah, the further down the tweezer that there's a bend would make removing the wick much easier but since its more of a DiY thing i just wanted to make use of tools that are most accessible to the common household so that anyone can do it. like a pair of tweezers that bend at 45º at the very very very tip with only a length of a few mm would be ideal but with a bit of faness anyone should be able to do it with a simple toothpick =]
there's always risk of the liquid getting pass the main body of the atty which is why drippers all like 'sealed' batteries but as long as you're not overdoing it it'll be fine.
as for the flavor switching: yes you'll be changing flavors easier but keep in mind that the mesh lays throughout the inner lining of the atomizer so there's still quite a bit of mesh left even after removing the bridge.
yeah, the further down the tweezer that there's a bend would make removing the wick much easier but since its more of a DiY thing i just wanted to make use of tools that are most accessible to the common household so that anyone can do it. like a pair of tweezers that bend at 45º at the very very very tip with only a length of a few mm would be ideal but with a bit of faness anyone should be able to do it with a simple toothpick =]
Yeah I am noticing that now with changing flavors, but it seems to have helped some.
I notice that Im having to drip a lot more, or at least I think I am... I understand the wick holding some extra but with the same number of drops Id think it would last similar amount of time, unless its burning off thicker since there is more directly on it?
Either way I like this modification, thanks for the vids!
Removing the threads did not work for me after i did this i was getting one good drag out of like 5-10. very inconsistant most drags were almost no vapor and atty is now getting extremely warm even after one 5 sec drag. Do you think i broke it by hitting the coil or is there a way to fix this issue?
hmm... sounds like either your atty's got one foot in the grave or you really did hit the coil unfortunately i am unsure of what the situation is because there's so many possibilities.
Well since it wasnt working i removed the bridge and it was getting red hot every once in a while but then just stopped....its getting hot but the coil is not turning red so i just ordered a bunch of atty's i will mess with and try to be careful thanks for everything
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