RichMan RBA

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madicen

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I have a couple questions for anyone who has one.

1) How are the o-rings for the top cap? Is it more secure than the AGA-T's?
2) Will an AGA-T2 tube work in the Richman? I tend to drop things, so I have spare tubes for my AGA already.


Yes. Almost too tight in the ones I have...but not. Very snug fit.

Yes. Same tank.
 

wiizy

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thanks for this info I was about to purchase one of these but not now my Igo L's airhole is below the wick and it bugs me

only one glaring flaw has made me regret the purchase. the airhole is below the coil area. and any lower it would be below the deck. i will try to fill it and drill my own but this kind of "miss" on the details is why i will always recommend top shelf products.[/QUOTE]
 

Thrasher

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What problems does the low air hole cause?

in an atomizer, vapor production as well as flavor comes from the air passing directly over the coil. vapor and flavor are diminished when it is not. the richman works ok but pulling the cap almost off to put the airflow in the middle of the coil wraps produces much more vaper and a better flavor. while it works as is i would prefer it works as intended. any of the better atty's when looking at them all have the airflow directly on the coil to produce maximum vapor and flavor.

in the one i have the flavor is overpowering as im blowing on a part of the wick that is just wet and taste more like the juice smells in the bottle, not the way it tastes fully vaporized.
 

Vault

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Interesting. That makes me wonder how it would work to have one tiny hole down low, and a bigger one up higher. Maybe .25mm and 1mm. That's one thing I miss with gennys so far, is that fresh juice taste/smell.

A good point and one that`s been passed over a lot of the time (except for posts stating to drill the existing hole).
There might be room for improvement here, rather than one large hole in line (roughly) with the coils a better idea might be two or even three smaller holes running vertically in line with the coils.
I`ve got a TIG welder and some micro drill bits so will have a play with this idea on the RSST as the cap is less complex and has no grooves like my AGA-T2.
 
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rnln

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I hope you guys don't mind I have couple silly questions. I am new to all this vaping, and of course new to genesis type tank. I do have an rsst and an Aga T2. After a lot of trials, I could be able to make ss rope wicks work on them.

What I see is that making ss wick on the RSST is much easier than on the Aga T2 because the wick hole has the insulation. Also, with this insulation, the whole can be a lot cooler compare to the Aga T2. I do pay attention to many genesis type pics on here and have not seen any other tank has the insulator like the RSST. Since this insulation thing make it's so important to many people, while it is not that important to many other, but still make thing a lot easier and not as hot as other tanks, why don't other manufactures make it that way? Do you guys find that is as important?
 
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madicen

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You know, I hadnt even noticed the lower placement of the airhole until it was mentioned. Im pretty .... about the size of mine, so the first thing I do with new RBAs is head to the workshop with the caps (when they are on the small side, like these were) and drill them out.

To be honest I never noticed till I went an looked..and low and behold they are a little lower. Performance has been spot on with what I like (good little fog machine), with great flavor. This is more than likely due to the bigger air hole that I prefer though. At the end of the day it doesent really bother me...no matter what mod or rba/rda it is, I tend to mod them to my liking anyhow.
 

jcarax

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I personally don't care about the insulation one way or the other. I think at this point, most people are either oxidizing their wick with a torch, or doing the pulse method on a mechanical? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I just oxidize on my gas stove, and have never had any problems once I started folding over the outer edge of the wick. Once in awhile I'll have a small short on an unoxidized patch, probably from scraping as I adjust my coil. A couple quick pulses before my Provari detects the short takes care of it. No insulation required.
 

jcarax

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Basically, just some quick pulses of the power button to make the coils glow. It oxidizes the mesh around the coils. Some people use that method entirely to oxidize their mesh, you can look up the Petar K Method on youtube for more on it. I oxidize my mesh, and then if I have a short from prodding the coil to adjust it (I use a syringe tip, so I inevitably scrape the wick), a few pulses takes care of it.

How to rebuild a Genesis RBA: Petar K method - YouTube
 
The only thing I don't like about the Petar K method is it seems to give you a somewhat loose contact between wick and wire. It may just be me, but I think a firm fit is crucial to building a good wick/coil assembly.

Basically, just some quick pulses of the power button to make the coils glow. It oxidizes the mesh around the coils. Some people use that method entirely to oxidize their mesh, you can look up the Petar K Method on youtube for more on it. I oxidize my mesh, and then if I have a short from prodding the coil to adjust it (I use a syringe tip, so I inevitably scrape the wick), a few pulses takes care of it.

How to rebuild a Genesis RBA: Petar K method - YouTube
 

rnln

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Thanks jcarax, I do that too, just didn't know that's what it called.
Thanks.

Basically, just some quick pulses of the power button to make the coils glow. It oxidizes the mesh around the coils. Some people use that method entirely to oxidize their mesh, you can look up the Petar K Method on youtube for more on it. I oxidize my mesh, and then if I have a short from prodding the coil to adjust it (I use a syringe tip, so I inevitably scrape the wick), a few pulses takes care of it.

How to rebuild a Genesis RBA: Petar K method - YouTube
 

Cifitzu

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Like the atomizer over all however a mini version with the same diameter just much shorter would be a atomizer be better suited for 18350 22mm mods. I would be happy if they would just come out with one that is an accessory to decrease its length....maybe 20-35mm in length would be great. It's yet to be done by even the high end addy makers. No one makes a rba that has a tank to sit flush with a 22mm diameter mod. I realize that it wouldn't hold much but it would be better than a dripper and make 18350 mods look right. Not a mod with a hat bigger than what it sits on. Sorry about the rant but seriously guys someone needs to make this happen.
 
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