That is what We have been saying
Yeah... I was Posting it more for the People who are Visual Learners. And who's Eyes kinda Glass Over reading all this and not being able to Visualize it.
Rig Mod Explodes
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Yeah... I was Posting it more for the People who are Visual Learners. And who's Eyes kinda Glass Over reading all this and not being able to Visualize it.
When the positive terminal of the battery is dead shorted to the negative
terminal of the battery the switch and load become irrelevant.
Everything on the negative side of the switch is negative. When you close the switch
the entire switch becomes negative. This allows current to flow through the circuit(load)
to the positive terminal. Anything on the positive side of the circuit for all intents and
purposes is the positive terminal of the battery. Anything on the negative side of the
circuit is potentially the negative terminal of the battery. When the switch is closed
everything on the negative side of the circuit for all intents and purposes is the negative
battery terminal. A switch is just an easy way to remove direct power from a circuit
instead of manually disconnecting a wire or removing a battery.
Regards
Mike
No - A mod is neither Negative or positive - it is a Conductor. Flow or Polarity are dictated by Power(battery) not conductor(Tube)
You are over thinking the purpose of the container.
As for this - also wrong:
Cars went to all Negative ground to reduce cost of Electrical component manufacturing. Alternators, Radios - later computerized components. Two different systems would require 2 complete sets of components.
Bulbs would always light regardless, if simple filament.
Over 40 years in automotive/DC electronics.
* and I have installed 12v positive radios in 12v Positive ground Trucks
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My point is below.
Now, invert that battery and have a bad wrap on the battery. Is the battery now not in contact with the side of the mod? Is the side of the mod not positively charged? Is this not a dead short? As in the same as clamping it in a vise with a cable connected on both ends?
Jump start a car sometime, hook the leads negative to positive, let me know how that works out. I give up.
No - A mod is neither Negative or positive - it is a Conductor. Flow or Polarity are dictated by Power(battery) not conductor(Tube)
You are over thinking the purpose of the container.
Not the way that mod is made, most mods are positively charged, meaning the battery is in constant contact with the positive pin with the positive button of the battery pushed on it. Push the battery up, it makes a circuit by completing the negative side.
This mod seems to be negatively charged, the switch and side of the mod are in constant contact with the negative post of the battery, then push the battery up to complete the circuit. All mods, all circuits, anything with anything to do with electricity works this way! The light switch in your house, the light always has a ground, it's just waiting for the positive connection to be made. Your car, it's waiting to be started, all you have to do is make the positive connection on the starter solenoid to complete the circuit.
This is basic stuff guys.
Giving up.
I will say this - unless there is a design defect:
After inspecting and verifying design,
I guarantee I can place a Battery(My choice) in the Rig mod - Positive down and NOT Hard Short the mod. - v1 or v2
You can figure out how I do it.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!
I fear you are right, even those of us that agree are arguing among ourselves because we can't get others to understand the simplicity of mech mods.
I just don't understand all the assumptions.
Folks are assuming the battery was put in upside down.
Others are assuming the battery had a damaged wrapper.
Well show me proof of that. (not just hearsay)
Facts are simple ... the mod exploded ... end of story.
Someone did something stupid ... or it wouldn't have happened.
Many on this forum have engineering or IT degrees .... we know how a switch works for hells sake!
Folks are assuming the battery was put in upside down.
Others are assuming the battery had a damaged wrapper.
Well show me proof of that. (not just hearsay)
Facts are simple ... the mod exploded ... end of story.
Someone did something stupid ... or it wouldn't have happened.
Many on this forum have engineering or IT degrees .... we know how a switch works for hells sake!
and with that, I'm done
Oh, and even though it was never mentioned:
Always check a Battery that has been dropped. A damaged positive end could be a short waiting to happen.
........and with that, I'm done
and with that, I'm done
Oh, and even though it was never mentioned:
Always check a Battery that has been dropped. A damaged positive end could be a short waiting to happen.
........and with that, I'm done
Except we should remember that there are also many on here that think that button on the dash starts their car.
.............................let them.Except we should remember that there are also many on here that think that button on the dash starts their car.
Except we should remember that there are also many on here that think that button on the dash starts their car.
How does it not energize the starter? It's pretty basic, until you add in all the computers now days. Used to be a pretty simple thing to hot wire a car. Power to the coil, energize the starter solenoid, and you were off. Did it several times getting a stranded car home without the keys.
Either way, as I say, everything with electricity is about completing a circuit. Either you have a constant hot and switch on the ground, or a constant ground and switch on the hot. How is it I can put a ground for a test light on a car, then touch a hot circuit and it lights up without a switch involved? How is it I can touch two points, the hot on the solenoid, and the exciter on the solenoid and make the starter kick in? Because there is a constant ground.
But you both are obviously way smarter than I'll ever be.
Yeah, I don't have a PHD, so I'm not worth the time.
So, IF the mod was set up right, from what I've seen, the nipple on an 18650 would be mighty close to, if not touching the contact on the switch, even with the lip for the battery stop. So it's possible it was making contact with the switch. The way the mod is made, I don't see any insulation in it, we can pretty safely assume that it, like most mods, is in constant contact with the sides of the mod. I don't have one here to test, but most of my mechs are that way. Constant contact all the time, it's not until the switch is pushed in to make contact with the battery it completes the circuit with the positive side already in contact of the 510 pin.
Now, IF there was something wrong with the wrap on the battery, is it not feasible that the battery is now making negative contact with the side of the mod? No matter what?
So IF the battery was installed upside down, and IF the tip of the battery was long enough to make contact with the switch, and IF the missing wrap made contact with the side of the mod, do we not have a complete circuit that amounts to a full short circuit?
I wasn't there, I didn't see the battery, I don't know the mod, other than the vids, and I don't for sure know what happened. But I have played with, and fixed enough electrical problems, without a PHD, to see this is a PLAUSIBLE explanation. It is a mech after all, not one of them there fancy new fangled regulated do dads that I can't wrap my pea sized brain around, because I don't have a PHD and never been to AA. They tried to make me go to rehab, but I said "No, No, No".
Lots of "IF's" and assumption, I agree. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I can certainly see where @Badninja gets his summation and I can't see many other ways for it to have happened.
But I don't have a PHD, and obviously don't understand electron flow and have never had a grasp of what a dead short can/could do. So please ignore my ramblings as there are others that are much smarter than I here to assure me of that fact and eager to show the errors of my ways.
So, IF the mod was set up right, from what I've seen, the nipple on an 18650 would be mighty close to, if not touching the contact on the switch, even with the lip for the battery stop. So it's possible it was making contact with the switch. The way the mod is made, I don't see any insulation in it, we can pretty safely assume that it, like most mods, is in constant contact with the sides of the mod. I don't have one here to test, but most of my mechs are that way. Constant contact all the time, it's not until the switch is pushed in to make contact with the battery it completes the circuit with the positive side already in contact of the 510 pin.
Now, IF there was something wrong with the wrap on the battery, is it not feasible that the battery is now making negative contact with the side of the mod? No matter what?
So IF the battery was installed upside down, and IF the tip of the battery was long enough to make contact with the switch, and IF the missing wrap made contact with the side of the mod, do we not have a complete circuit that amounts to a full short circuit?
I wasn't there, I didn't see the battery, I don't know the mod, other than the vids, and I don't for sure know what happened. But I have played with, and fixed enough electrical problems, without a PHD, to see this is a PLAUSIBLE explanation. It is a mech after all, not one of them there fancy new fangled regulated do dads that I can't wrap my pea sized brain around, because I don't have a PHD and never been to AA. They tried to make me go to rehab, but I said "No, No, No".
Lots of "IF's" and assumption, I agree. I'm not saying that's what happened, but I can certainly see where @Badninja gets his summation and I can't see many other ways for it to have happened.
But I don't have a PHD, and obviously don't understand electron flow and have never had a grasp of what a dead short can/could do. So please ignore my ramblings as there are others that are much smarter than I here to assure me of that fact and eager to show the errors of my ways.
As I had mentioned before I already said with an open switch if the battery is inserted backwards
and the mod immediately shorted a torn wrap was the most likely cause.This assumes all other
components of the mod are correctly installed and in good working order.
My point is the switch is the most unlikely source of a dead short as it is in series with the load.
The only shorted condition a switch could have would be an always closed position which would
just fire up the coil. That's not good either but it's not a dead short.(direct positive to negative terminal.)
Mike
Let me explain it this way, because it's easier:
Does the horn button honk the horn? The answer is NO, it would require more amps than the switch could handle. The horn button energizes the coil of the horn relay and the contacts of the relay honk the horn.
Now you know how a mosfet works.
Let me explain it this way, because it's easier:
Does the horn button honk the horn? The answer is NO, it would require more amps than the switch could handle. The horn button energizes the coil of the horn relay and the contacts of the relay honk the horn.
Now you know how a mosfet works.
I'm fully aware of how a Mosfet, or actually in that case, a Bosh style relay, works. It's the same instance as solenoid on a starter, hit the switch, it energizes the starter without burning up the ignition switch. But in a mech mod, there are NO electronics. There is a battery, a tube and a mechanical switch. The only protection is between your ears. The "Rig" mod is not a regulated mod, there isn't any more to it than the basic components.
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