lol...yep, sorry. Guess measuring roofs all day confuses what intellect I have left.
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lol...yep, sorry. Guess measuring roofs all day confuses what intellect I have left.
For those of you without star bit tools, here are the dimensions of the same size hole using drill bits. You won't have to spin them to make them perfectly round, but wont' work if you want the star shape (depending on what you are trying)
#20 star = 1/8" drill bit
#15 star = 3/32" drill bit
#10 star = 5/64 drill bit
I'm actually trying to carve a small piece with wood to get that square top with the right size "peg" so that when I do get this exactly right, it will be easy to replicate.
#20 star = 1/8" drill bit
#15 star = 3/32" drill bit
#10 star = 5/64 drill bit
I'm actually trying to carve a small piece with wood to get that square top with the right size "peg" so that when I do get this exactly right, it will be easy to replicate.
Very true! I have a #2 (S02?) square bit that is 1/8 inch (or the size of the #20 star). I just made a 1/8 drill hole on that was only about 1mm from the top of the cart and it actually has worked the best for me. I did have to tap it down or take the cart off when it got dry so apparently it was locking up for no air flow. I just made another one with a paperclip hole beside it to see if that helps. NOW I'm getting excited because that 1/8" whole worked VERY well except I had to let air in every once in a while. Hoping the paper clip hole works and it doesn't leak.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I went out and bought this stuff at Michaels. Cost me over $20! I've made 2 so far and both times it's dumped everything straight into the atty. The hole I have looks smaller than the one in the pics here. Don't get me wrong, this stuff molds great! I just can't seem to get the hole done correctly. I'll keep trying.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I went out and bought this stuff at Michaels. Cost me over $20! I've made 2 so far and both times it's dumped everything straight into the atty. The hole I have looks smaller than the one in the pics here. Don't get me wrong, this stuff molds great! I just can't seem to get the hole done correctly. I'll keep trying.
Does your atty have an off-center or "weird" bridge tip? That can cause grief with this type of mod.
I tried to center it as best I could. I just think I need to make an adjustment to the size hole. I have one curing right now. I'm actually using a small wood screw to make the hole. It works well in that you screw it into the mold and when dry, you just unscrew it.
We'll see.
We'll see.
Pete,
It just like the ZFM, u know when you get it right! Try to explain what I do to the T.
I stick the star tool in and stretch it to look like a funnel, the bottom isnt funneled just a hole. I insert it into my cart after its completely cured with the funnel on top of the cart. It works perfect, I have made 3 of them that way and they r all not exact measures, but all work in the same.
Maybe I will measure the hole on top and give a precise measurement. U will know once you get it. Then u can make them perfect repeatedly in about 3 minutes.
It just like the ZFM, u know when you get it right! Try to explain what I do to the T.
I stick the star tool in and stretch it to look like a funnel, the bottom isnt funneled just a hole. I insert it into my cart after its completely cured with the funnel on top of the cart. It works perfect, I have made 3 of them that way and they r all not exact measures, but all work in the same.
Maybe I will measure the hole on top and give a precise measurement. U will know once you get it. Then u can make them perfect repeatedly in about 3 minutes.
This is the correct way to get things to cure quicker - although 350 may be too high. Dropping things you want to cure into hot water adds moisture to the material which in turn SLOWS down the overall curing process.
FYI - I am involved in MIL-SPEC materials and many othem them require secondary testing to ensure they meet military specifications. These tests require cure times that sometimes go for 2 days or longer. Best thing to do is either set them aside and let them cure over time or place in an oven at no higher than 275-300 degrees.
TC
Strange that you would say that. Generally speaking, moisture is an accelerant for silicone based RTV materials.
For clarification it is moisture in the AIR that accelerates SOME types of silicone based materials.
Please tell me you know what "RTV" stands for. If you don't ask and I'll let ya know.
Thanks...
TC
Don't play stupid games with me. They don't end well.
RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanization.
A trick in the industry for about the last 30 years has been to add some water to RTV silicone in order to get it to kick and cure faster.
I don;t want to sidetrack this thread and this will be my last post regarding you coming off like a know it all. Look - URETHANE type RTV can be helped to cure with hot water. SILICONE type RTV is akin to the stuff you caulk your shower and other bathroom fixtures with should not be gotten wet until they are fully cured.
That's all I was trying to advised people of - but keep on with your bad self scott.
...appreciate your snideness.
TC
That's all I was trying to advised people of - but keep on with your bad self scott.
...appreciate your snideness.
TC
Oh come on ... let's not have a pissing contest. This mod is da bomb and I don't want people to get thrown off by all of this technical stuff (I didn't know what it meant BTW) BTW = By The Way
Anyway, I finally have one working. Let me run down a quick list so anyone looking for quick list stuff.
1. 1/8 hole, no vent (paper clip) worked but had to vent air when the atty started drying
2. 3/32 hole with vent (paper clip) wouldn't wick
3. 1/8 hole with 1/16 vent leaked, but was working
4. 1/8 hole with paper clip still wouldn't wick, but see below
I ended up making one that had 1/8 hole (or #20 star for those using that) and a paper clip vent pretty much like the the original but bigger hole. This wasn't working, but the reason was the juice just could not get to the atty and it seemed because there was an air pocket between the atty and the juice where the hole was. I ended up making a bridge shape out of that one by cutting out pieces on the side of the 1/8 hole leaving about 1-2 mm of space between the juice and the atty but left the two sides on so it wouldn't slip into the cart. As of right now (and we know these things change), I've vaped 2 carts dry. Having to wait a bit to try more because it's 26mg juice
TIP: I'm actually letting mine bulge over the top and bottom while making it and wait 1 minute after I've inserted the paper clip and drill bit to take them out by twisting. This lets it start setting and makes it VERY easy to cut with a razer to make them perfectly straight across the top and bottom (fully cured works, but a little harder to shave). Mine also sits 1 mm from the top of the cart and I've even tried turning the atty short ways instead of long ways when inserting to try avoiding blocking the vent hole. That might not work for HV but it's not melting anything on 3.7v
I'm also just placing mine in almost boiling water for 5-10 minutes right after making it and it seems to fully cure it (or at least seems to)
So, this is just another shot for anyone else having some problems.
Anyway, I finally have one working. Let me run down a quick list so anyone looking for quick list stuff.
1. 1/8 hole, no vent (paper clip) worked but had to vent air when the atty started drying
2. 3/32 hole with vent (paper clip) wouldn't wick
3. 1/8 hole with 1/16 vent leaked, but was working
4. 1/8 hole with paper clip still wouldn't wick, but see below
I ended up making one that had 1/8 hole (or #20 star for those using that) and a paper clip vent pretty much like the the original but bigger hole. This wasn't working, but the reason was the juice just could not get to the atty and it seemed because there was an air pocket between the atty and the juice where the hole was. I ended up making a bridge shape out of that one by cutting out pieces on the side of the 1/8 hole leaving about 1-2 mm of space between the juice and the atty but left the two sides on so it wouldn't slip into the cart. As of right now (and we know these things change), I've vaped 2 carts dry. Having to wait a bit to try more because it's 26mg juice
TIP: I'm actually letting mine bulge over the top and bottom while making it and wait 1 minute after I've inserted the paper clip and drill bit to take them out by twisting. This lets it start setting and makes it VERY easy to cut with a razer to make them perfectly straight across the top and bottom (fully cured works, but a little harder to shave). Mine also sits 1 mm from the top of the cart and I've even tried turning the atty short ways instead of long ways when inserting to try avoiding blocking the vent hole. That might not work for HV but it's not melting anything on 3.7v
I'm also just placing mine in almost boiling water for 5-10 minutes right after making it and it seems to fully cure it (or at least seems to)
So, this is just another shot for anyone else having some problems.
Your advice would be fine if it wasn't wrong and you weren't adamant about it.
Look up Dow Corning RTV silicone. Please to note that it is MOISTURE CURE. Moisture.. ie H2O is the catalyst for the curing reaction. Not only is it desired, it is absolutely necessary.
Look up Dow Corning RTV silicone. Please to note that it is MOISTURE CURE. Moisture.. ie H2O is the catalyst for the curing reaction. Not only is it desired, it is absolutely necessary.
i know from experience that RTV can be "flash cured on the outer most layer of the exposed area with ICE the water keeps it from sticking to your hands as you smooth it into the area you're using it on... the ice makes it harden ON THE OUTSIDE ONLY... but that was military RTV the stuff you're using might have a different make up
Oh come on ... let's not have a pissing contest. This mod is da bomb and I don't want people to get thrown off by all of this technical stuff (I didn't know what it meant BTW) BTW = By The Way
Anyway, I finally have one working. Let me run down a quick list so anyone looking for quick list stuff.
1. 1/8 hole, no vent (paper clip) worked but had to vent air when the atty started drying
2. 3/32 hole with vent (paper clip) wouldn't wick
3. 1/8 hole with 1/16 vent leaked, but was working
4. 1/8 hole with paper clip still wouldn't wick, but see below
I ended up making one that had 1/8 hole (or #20 star for those using that) and a paper clip vent pretty much like the the original but bigger hole. This wasn't working, but the reason was the juice just could not get to the atty and it seemed because there was an air pocket between the atty and the juice where the hole was. I ended up making a bridge shape out of that one by cutting out pieces on the side of the 1/8 hole leaving about 1-2 mm of space between the juice and the atty but left the two sides on so it wouldn't slip into the cart. As of right now (and we know these things change), I've vaped 2 carts dry. Having to wait a bit to try more because it's 26mg juice
TIP: I'm actually letting mine bulge over the top and bottom while making it and wait 1 minute after I've inserted the paper clip and drill bit to take them out by twisting. This lets it start setting and makes it VERY easy to cut with a razer to make them perfectly straight across the top and bottom (fully cured works, but a little harder to shave). Mine also sits 1 mm from the top of the cart and I've even tried turning the atty short ways instead of long ways when inserting to try avoiding blocking the vent hole. That might not work for HV but it's not melting anything on 3.7v
I'm also just placing mine in almost boiling water for 5-10 minutes right after making it and it seems to fully cure it (or at least seems to)
So, this is just another shot for anyone else having some problems.
Nice! pics seem to work better for some people. Visualization is key, can u post?
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