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Thanks, I think my friend is gonna be happy. Now I'm planning to torch the tube of my #8, I really like the blue.
Yeah I like the blue also. Might try that on my 8. We have a few different torches at work. just need to get another mod so I can play with it. Giving my backup natural to my Father in law next weekend. been meaning to get a 19, just cant catch the b version in stock yet.
Here is a coulpe tweeks I did to mine, Nzonic top cap sanded down the delrin, removed the magnet. Bottom switch, added the washer to the post and then used the smok telescope spring because its soft and short in the. Removed the magnet and added a brass nut with a TINY TINY bit of super glue to hold it in place.
I have a little tighter nut im going to dremel the corners tonight to were it just pushes in very snug
I have a little tighter nut im going to dremel the corners tonight to were it just pushes in very snug
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i cannot for the life of me take the bottom button apart.
i tried holding one side and twisting the button.. does not work.. anyone else can give me some advice..
i want to lower the resistance of the button.. seems to hard to press.
btw the 19b i got.. tested it.. fires everytime.. straight out of the box too.
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nvm, found out its glued..
i tried holding one side and twisting the button.. does not work.. anyone else can give me some advice..
i want to lower the resistance of the button.. seems to hard to press.
btw the 19b i got.. tested it.. fires everytime.. straight out of the box too.
edit:
nvm, found out its glued..
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A solution was posted a few post back, but soak it in 99% rubbing alcohol for 30-1hr and try it again
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I thought mine was glued BUT after messing with it for an hour it finally popped off and came apart..... Also if you twist off the ring on the bottom until its snug and then after that keep applying presure after that it also loosens it up.
How did you blue the tube?
Just modded a sigelei #19 V2 that a friend gave me to play with. When I got the mod the top spring had already been taken out. I removed the magnet in the bottom and replaced it with three brass disks soldered together in a stack. The positive connection had a steel screw in it which I removed, and I filled the resulting hole with silver solder. I also replaced the bottom spring and made the throw shorter by adding an o-ring to the switch, it's nice and soft but doesn't fire if set upright on a table. And I blued the tube, this is 18650 mode.
Got my nzonic cap in today. I don't have pretty pics to share (yet.. very tempted to polish this thing), just a little reduction from the top so my attys will sit flush 
oh i was going to do that.. mine doesnt sit flush.. how did you do that? by hand? or with a dremel with a sanding bit?
Dremel
I used a real heavy grit cylinder bit to grind the connector down rough (it was REALLY rough, lol) then cut some 400 sandpaper and put it on the dremel to clean it up.
I used a real heavy grit cylinder bit to grind the connector down rough (it was REALLY rough, lol) then cut some 400 sandpaper and put it on the dremel to clean it up.
I just grinded down my connector by hand to get it to sit flush. It really doesnt take very long at all. I just laid down a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper flat on the table and ran the connector on the top cap across it until it was flush. It maybe took 10 mins.
I did all this with the brss nut and conductive glue. It worked great when i put it all back together but when i took it aprt again to adjust the spring for a smoother throw. It stopped working when put back together again. I pulled the spring out several times to adjust it but cant get it to fireNext up was the spring in the switch. I'd still love to find a brass/copper "hot spring" to try here but I've found that even the steel spring that it comes with can be tweaked to work better. I actually used a spring I found at my local hardware store that is *identical* to th stock one, except it is perhaps 1/4 of an inch longer. I think this would work with the stock one too, in a pinch.
I took a pair of needle nose pliers and stretched the top most coils, furthest from the bottom, in effect making the top half of the spring slightly wider. It takes physical effort now to insert the spring inside the button assembly... not much but it's now large enough that at least part of the spring is *always* in solid contact with the locking ring and thus the rest of the button assembly. This worked great and got rid of the occasional "hot button" and misfires I was having. The only problem I ran into is that if I used the lock sometimes the very top most coil would then get trapped between the lock and the delrin, preventing the lock from screwing all the way back in again. A little more work with the pliers and I fixed that too. The spring is now sort of egg shaped, a bit wider in the mid section than at either end. I smeared a dab of Ox-Gard on the inside face of the locking ring as well:
Sero started heat treatment thread, it might give some ideas and includes a link to another RBA heat treatment thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-torching-color-stainless-steel-titanium.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-torching-color-stainless-steel-titanium.html
I just picked up a 19b. Its spring loaded on top instead of having a magnet. How do I use this with a kick?
i followed this guys instructions and now i modded my 19b into a hybrid w/o the sg1 kit
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