Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[CountSmackula]

Finally got my button loose!

I used the thinnest flat screwdriver on my multi-tool, wedged it between the brass shaft & the delrin. Then I grabbed the button with my 2nd largest pair of channel-locks & twisted (and twisted, and twisted) the button until it came off.

Using 99% isopropyl to dissolve the glue & scraping the residue out with a dental pick. Need to either heat the stock spring or find a softer replacement.
The only pisser is that I need to buff out the scratches the pliers left on the button.

 

[goonie]

If you don't want to sand down the the top cap or buy the SG-1 kit, you can try the SG-FREE mod (not my original idea, but another smart board member's idea)

.

 

[the4thpower3]

Has anyone drilled holes in their top cap for air flow?
I still like using carto tanks - but flush mounted on the Nzonic head, they don't get enough airflow for me. (I shaved down the 510 connector to flush mount btw.)

I got an AGR tank and the base does help with airflow - but it adds alot to the total device - unnecessary if I can drill airholes in the top cap.

I want to get the standard 19 top cap to drill. Anyone know where to find one?

 

[nz1001]

Having the brass version on order, I went ahead and got the SS – ready for 2-tone double up.

I had hard time getting the magnet off. While putting it to the dremel, I stopped midway and tried this...
The wire came from an old PC power supply, it should be thick enough to make contact to the battery no matter the angle.
Torched a paperclip and stick through the delrin just under the lip, and trap the wire beneath.
I cut/reduced the original spring by about 1 ½ turns, which was a bit too much, had to replace it.



Working really well, the throw is just under 1mm, fully fires no matter which part of the button gets pushed.
After adding tiny bit of ox-guard (or noalox, yes it'll make a difference) to all the threads, a quick measure showed ~10% v-drop on a 0.8 ohm.

 

[goonie]

I want to get the standard 19 top cap to drill. Anyone know where to find one?

exhale vapors.... Damn I've been getting them a lot of business, I want my cut!

 

[pastubbs]

If your battery vents in your face don't say you weren't warned.

You do know that in a mechanical mod flipping the battery has no affect.

Edit:

You are correct, the tube becomes positive if you insert the battery the wrong way. The metal case of the battery (which is insulated by the plastic wrapping on the battery) is always negative. IF the plastic battery skin ever becomes damaged and the metal battery casing contacts the inside of the tube then you will have a hard short in your hand.

Unlikely? Maybe.

Completely avoidable? Yes.

I am not saying inserting your battery the wrong way means certain and instant doom... but hard shorts are ugly (I know you know this) and in regards to battery orientation they are avoidable.

Never really though about the wrapping on the battery I definitely don't want to have a mod in my hand with a hard short. I knew this but I guess it just went over my head. Thanks for backing up your statement and reminding me of the fact.

 

[pastubbs]

Hey is it weird that my bottom cap won't thread into the top of the mod? I've seen people reversing the caps, but it won't work on mine. The threads get stuck half way. Like really stuck. Interestingly, the top (nzonic) cap will still thread into the bottom.

Its the same on the one I received today different from the first one I got.

 

[pastubbs]

I though I'd give an up date on the current Sigelei #19 they have at Exhale Vapors

None of the parts are glued everything screwed right apart.

One end of the spring is wider then the other my guess is to give the switch more contact with the body of the mod also its not as stiff.

So at this point I put it all back together with a 18350 battery and it fires just as good as my modified Sigelei #19
The only thing I would do to the current release is put an o-ring in the switch to shorting the throw No need to flip your baatteries.
I guess Sigelei has been reading the forums and decided to fix some of the issues.
I got this one from Exhale Vapors, they also have replacement caps $5 for the standard and $6 for the Nzonic. Both caps work for the #8, #13 and #19

 

[CountSmackula]

Finally got my button loose!

I used the thinnest flat screwdriver on my multi-tool, wedged it between the brass shaft & the delrin. Then I grabbed the button with my 2nd largest pair of channel-locks & twisted (and twisted, and twisted) the button until it came off.

Using 99% isopropyl to dissolve the glue & scraping the residue out with a dental pick. Need to either heat the stock spring or find a softer replacement.
The only pisser is that I need to buff out the scratches the pliers left on the button.

Solved my softer spring 'issue'. I used the spring that came with my #20 in place of the original 19B spring. I installed it fat coil up - seated against the locking ring. No more misfires. This'll do until I can order some more helix hot springs. Especially since I have the 19E on the way.

 

[CountSmackula]

Hey is it weird that my bottom cap won't thread into the top of the mod? I've seen people reversing the caps, but it won't work on mine. The threads get stuck half way. Like really stuck. Interestingly, the top (nzonic) cap will still thread into the bottom.

Odd... Mine swaps end for end, no problem. Maybe a buggered thread?

I like my tube flipped. In the standard orientation, the edge of the fat tube was uncomfortable against the side of my finger. Also, the vents are now at the bottom.

 

[CountSmackula]

If you don't want to sand down the the top cap or buy the SG-1 kit, you can try the SG-FREE mod (not my original idea, but another smart board member's idea)

Please explain to the slow kid in the class how this works, since I don't have one of the original caps to look at. I get cutting off the surround, and flipping over the threaded part (I guess?), but how do you deal with the long original 510 connector & making the connection to the battery?

Thanks!

 

[gdeal]

I though I'd give an up date on the current Sigelei #19 they have at Exhale Vapors

None of the parts are glued everything screwed right apart.

Thanks for that update. Guess they ran out of switch glue building the 19E. My switch is locked in tighter than...(fill in best quote). I might do a Countsmackula tonight. I got the Robogrips on the table.

 

[goonie]

Please explain to the slow kid in the class how this works, since I don't have one of the original caps to look at. I get cutting off the surround, and flipping over the threaded part (I guess?), but how do you deal with the long original 510 connector & making the connection to the battery?

Thanks!

Option 1: You do nothing to the long original connector, and only use the device in 18350 mode while telescoped out a bit. This means that it will no longer fit an 18650 at full length.

Option 2: You simply cut the connector down to size making it the original distance from positive the battery connector. I measure the exact distance but cut slightly less, and made up for it with an alternative brass screw that I also chopped up. Original delrin was reused.

The original post is found here

 

[CountSmackula]

Thanks for the response! So option 2 it'll have to be since I don't own/use 18350s.

Oh, and thanks for the link!

 

[doook]

Not sure if this has been posted already but i fixed my buddies #19 today using my old k100 button. Just screw on the button assembly to the skinnier end of the #19 and it works amazing! never misses a beat!

 

[Fullknight]

I can reverse my bottom & top cap on my #19.


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[the4thpower3]

Modified.

I though I'd give an up date on the current Sigelei #19 they have at Exhale Vapors

None of the parts are glued everything screwed right apart.

I got this one from Exhale Vapors, they also have replacement caps $5 for the standard and $6 for the Nzonic. Both caps work for the #8, #13 and #19

Did your 19 come with a magnet head or spring?
I'm thinking - I'd prefer the magnet head. Better, solid connection, easier to modify (if the magnet comes out).
Glad to hear yours came apart easily. I believe the first generation of them with the magnet heads came apart easily.

Thanks for the links. They are sold out of the standard 19 heads though

Btw. Nice ZT 0550 - I only have clones Kershaw Cryo.
Wish I could afford a real Hinderer or at least a ZT.

 

[Bmays]

^ This would happen regardless of battery orientation (in a dc circuit mechanical mod). It does not "turn the tube positive" - whatever that means.

Deleted to keep peace

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[pastubbs]

Modified.



Did your 19 come with a magnet head or spring?
I'm thinking - I'd prefer the magnet head. Better, solid connection, easier to modify (if the magnet comes out).
Glad to hear yours came apart easily. I believe the first generation of them with the magnet heads came apart easily.

Thanks for the links. They are sold out of the standard 19 heads though

Btw. Nice ZT 0550 - I only have clones Kershaw Cryo.
Wish I could afford a real Hinderer or at least a ZT.

Mine came with the spring head I think there easier to modify because all you have to do is remove the screw holding the spring and replace it wit a longer brass screw.

Oh and I have several ZTs I think there the best production knives out there.

 

[the4thpower3]

Cool.
The only reason I thought the top magnet would work to mod is if the magnet came out. Then drill and tap the brass center post with a smaller brass screw into that - then have a double adjustable for battery size/atomizer fitment.
I think I saw someone do that with the bottom switch magnet - but magnet won't come out. Maybe i'll try harder later.