Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[Statistic]

The top magnet was actually really easy to get out, on mine that is.

It wasn't glued in. All i had to do was grip the top of the positive post with needle nose pliers and turn it clockwise until it pushed the magnet out of the insulator. Pics in THIS POST

I fit the magnet in a washer (that I made) and used it to make the switch action truly magnetic (no spring in my switch now) BUT to do this the magnet sticks to the bottom of the battery... kind of a pain in the .... to have to move the magnet to a new battery every time I swap out batteries. It does work though, quite well, and I didn't have to buy any extra parts or modify any of the parts I have. I could put the mod back to stock condition (except for the polished finish it has now )

I REALLY like GDEALs Magnetic Switch Mod more than any other I've seen. The ring magnets he used are all contained inside the switch, really cool idea there.

 

[the4thpower3]

thanks for the info Stat.

I think I'm gonna go with some brass thumb screws in the top.
like these Brass Thumb Screw, Knurled Head, 0.562" Length, Fully Threaded, #6-32 UNC Threads, Made in US (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
maybe even drill and tap those with a small #4 for an adjustable.

Maybe get rid of the bottom magnet and drill and tap that brass cup too - to make it adjustable as well.

I do like the idea of a true magnetic switch. Still debating on how to do it cheaply and easily.

 

[Zencoder]

All, If you really want a nice 19... the SG-1 Fusion Kit is back in stick. Here is a video to show you in action.

 

[the4thpower3]

I'm still considering it.
If it was $15 I'd buy 2 right now.
$25 seems like a lot...
I'm cheap.
lol

 

[Gummy Bare]

Hey guys, I follow this thread here and there and it help me fix the #19 switch when I got it. I'm a little behind on all the pages so I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet... but has anyone got the brass/copper #19 yet? I got one coming in the mail soon, just wondering if it's actually brass and if they changed anything (like fix the misfire issues).

Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna mix and match the pieces to have two "two tone" #19's.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

 

[Stoneface]

Hey guys, I follow this thread here and there and it help me fix the #19 switch when I got it. I'm a little behind on all the pages so I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet... but has anyone got the brass/copper #19 yet? I got one coming in the mail soon, just wondering if it's actually brass and if they changed anything (like fix the misfire issues).

Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna mix and match the pieces to have two "two tone" #19's.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

Nam got his: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...elei-19-tips-tricks-donts-45.html#post9978059
And a few others I think...I'm still waiting on mine.

 

[ricericerice]

Hey guys, I follow this thread here and there and it help me fix the #19 switch when I got it. I'm a little behind on all the pages so I'm not sure if this has been mentioned yet... but has anyone got the brass/copper #19 yet? I got one coming in the mail soon, just wondering if it's actually brass and if they changed anything (like fix the misfire issues).

Thanks for the info. I think I'm gonna mix and match the pieces to have two "two tone" #19's.

:: sent from android with tapatalk ::

Im on the preorder group 2 on vaportek, it's still in processing for me. Haven't receive any email updates either.

thanks for the info Stat.

I think I'm gonna go with some brass thumb screws in the top.
like these Brass Thumb Screw, Knurled Head, 0.562" Length, Fully Threaded, #6-32 UNC Threads, Made in US (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
maybe even drill and tap those with a small #4 for an adjustable.

Maybe get rid of the bottom magnet and drill and tap that brass cup too - to make it adjustable as well.

I do like the idea of a true magnetic switch. Still debating on how to do it cheaply and easily.

is 6-32 the real thread size for the delrin in the top cap? I like that thumb screw

 

[the4thpower3]

is 6-32 the real thread size for the delrin in the top cap? I like that thumb screw

Seems to be. If it's close it should work fine threading into delrin.
I noticed that link I posted the head size is quite big (head height) - and they are out of stock.
So I ordered these Brass Thumb Screw, Knurled Head, 0.5" Length, Fully Threaded, #6-32 UNC Threads, Made in US (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
But now those are out of stock.

I'll post back if/when I work something out. They may wind up being a little short for the 19 alone.
My plan was to drill and tap it with a smaller #4 thumb screw to have double adjustment (for atty height and battery rattle).
I just like tinkering and I don't like that spring. That spring is gouging my batteries - partially my fault too, I like everything tight and snug and it tough to tell when there's enough tension on that spring. Not as much of an issue in 18350 mode.

 

[CountSmackula]

The delrin, like the rest of the mod is metric threaded. All the 1 to 3mm stuff has a 0.5 thread pitch, the 4mm can have either 0.5 or 0.7 threads (for no rhyme or reason, except possibly price/availability).

 

[st0nedpenguin]

I didn't see much point in adding adjustable contacts, shortening the tube length to fit an 18350 worked perfectly for me since it telescopes for other battery sizes anyway.

 

[Nostalgic Hero]

This is how my nzonic top cap looks when screw down all the way. It has a huge gap, none like the ones i've seen on here. Does anyone else have this problem?

 

[Nostalgic Hero]

BTW the stock cap sits flush just fine.

 

[whit77]

BTW the stock cap sits flush just fine.

Check the 19b threads are clean, also compare both caps side by side to see if the threads run the same length, also have you tried the 19b cap without a battery in

 

[Nostalgic Hero]

Check the 19b threads are clean, also compare both caps side by side to see if the threads run the same length, also have you tried the 19b cap without a battery in

Threads are clean and run about the same length as far as the eye can see. I also followed the threads with my finger nails on both cap to see if there were any indifference's but none that i notice. Also the pic is without any battery in the device.

I suspect that where the thread ends, it doesn't have a good finishing cut. if you know what i'm trying to describe.

I notified the vendor and they are convinced that the cap is within "normal tolerance" if it fires and will settle with further use.

 

[whit77]

Threads are clean and run about the same length as far as the eye can see. I also followed the threads with my finger nails on both cap to see if there were any indifference's but none that i notice. Also the pic is without any battery in the device.

I suspect that where the thread ends, it doesn't have a good finishing cut. if you know what i'm trying to describe.

I notified the vendor and they are convinced that the cap is within "normal tolerance" if it fires and will settle with further use.

So the vendor reckons that's fine, total bull crap mate, mine screws all the way down no problem at all, something definitely wrong on yours

 

[Stoneface]

Threads are clean and run about the same length as far as the eye can see. I also followed the threads with my finger nails on both cap to see if there were any indifference's but none that i notice. Also the pic is without any battery in the device.

I suspect that where the thread ends, it doesn't have a good finishing cut. if you know what i'm trying to describe.

I notified the vendor and they are convinced that the cap is within "normal tolerance" if it fires and will settle with further use.

Send them that photo and see what they say...Whit77 is right, IMO...

 

[Been_Verbed]

After viewing the posts on modifying the switch, I noticed there wasn't a post on replacing the brass/copper bolt with the magnet attached.

Are the threads not a standard metric? I wanted to know what type of bolt would thread into the actual button.

Before ordering, I would like to know if I could mod the switch with a few washers/nuts and bolt, without the use of a drill press and tap set.

 

[Nostalgic Hero]

Send them that photo and see what they say...Whit77 is right, IMO...

I've submitted several tickets with exhalevapors. Even sent them this photo just to have them tell me that as long as it fires everything is fine. They even sent me a link of this post which is why im here. And I hate to throw them under the bus for this but looks like i'm ..... out of luck.

 

[Been_Verbed]

Does anyone know what type of threads are used on the bottom button ? [ part where brass screws into button ]

 

[Stoneface]

I've submitted several tickets with exhalevapors. Even sent them this photo just to have them tell me that as long as it fires everything is fine. They even sent me a link of this post which is why im here. And I hate to throw them under the bus for this but looks like i'm ..... out of luck.

You are not throwing them under the bus, they are doing it to themselves. There is clearly something wrong with either the threading on your cap or the threading on the tube. They should attempt to help you, IMO. If they don't, they've lost me as a customer too...I wouldn't want that to happen to me.