Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

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forg1vn

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No mod leaves some time to figure out the magnetic switch....the first round turned out pretty good I think....I used some 1/2" od x 1/4" id x 1/16" magnets I had.










alrite bap, where did the rest of those parts come from and what are they? you gonna need to do a more detailed write-up, unless you're cheating and making your own parts :p
 

the4thpower3

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Did the soak in hoppe's work?

No. It didnt work. Not for me anyhow.
I stuck it it there, pushed the button in a couple times. Left it for a couple hours. Nothing.
I see someone else posted about using alcohol and had some luck a few pages back.
Sorry, I wanted to be helpful and see about a clean way of getting it apart without destroying the magnet...
I'm just too impatient.

My impatience/frustration led me to just cut the magnet and use a flat head with the button in a vice; just like I did my last one.
Then wack the crap out of the magnet till its gone. Then drill and tap the post for a thumb screw.
 

the4thpower3

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I wanted my 19's to be truly two-tone: so I gave up on the hoppe's soak and did it caveman style.
The button and the spring on my 19E look exactly the same as the 19B.
So I'm still confused about the arcing problem.
I haven't gotten my magnets yet for my other button - but I switched up parts to make the two-tone anyways.
So one is using custom magnet set up, the other is using stock spring. Both have been short stroked.
So here's the interesting part. Before my 19b was arcing at the switch button - like crazy (no real hot button, just little sparks); and the brand new 19E was not. Now that I've swapped parts around - neither button arcs. Weird.

EDIT: it was not arcing for a little; but I kept trying - and the one with the magnets is still arcing.
It is the one with the brass housing, brass button and steel ring. I'm gonna swap the magnets and spring and see if it still arcs.

EDIT: I broke one of these magnets again (don't know how); so I'm back to using springs.

EDIT: I did notice when putting the springs back that the one that came out of the 19B looks shiny and the one out of the 19E looks dull (could have been from the Hoppe's soak). Maybe it is a different spring. Size and shape all looks the same. No arcing from either button now...hmmm.

Of course I'm posting pics of the complete two-tones.
The 19brothers with their cousin (ehpro shipwreck).
SDC11097.jpg


SDC11103.jpg


SDC11099.jpg


SDC11104.jpg


Sorry, I don't have any real cool toppers or SG-1/hybrid drop yet.
 
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wacko78

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the first i tried was to slot the magnet and try to unscrew it. the magnet broke apart but the damn post didn't budge.

No. It didnt work. Not for me anyhow.
I stuck it it there, pushed the button in a couple times. Left it for a couple hours. Nothing.
I see someone else posted about using alcohol and had some luck a few pages back.
Sorry, I wanted to be helpful and see about a clean way of getting it apart without destroying the magnet...
I'm just too impatient.

My impatience/frustration led me to just cut the magnet and use a flat head with the button in a vice; just like I did my last one.
Then wack the crap out of the magnet till its gone. Then drill and tap the post for a thumb screw.
 

the4thpower3

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the first i tried was to slot the magnet and try to unscrew it. the magnet broke apart but the damn post didn't budge.

damn man! sorry to hear that.

try this?
Ok, so I have read through the entire thread at this point and figured I would throw in my experience. I got the 19 v2 with both heads from ExhaleVapors. I immediately removed the spring and screw from the stock top cap, but left the spring and screw on the Nzonic head. With the screw and spring removed, the 18350 will not fire. With the spring in place, it will tear into your batteries.

My button was glued on, so I soaked it for a little over 1 hour in a shot glass full of 91% alcohol. I made sure to depress the switch a few times, with the button on the bottom of the glass, to make sure as much of the alcohol got to the button as possible. If no more bubbles come up, it should be full. I pulled it out and drained all of the alcohol out of it. I then used a pair of needle nosed pliers on the magnet, and a larger set of pliers on the button. The magnet did not fair too well, but there are no marks on the button. They came apart quite easily using this process.

I am not concerned with the magnet as I never liked the "thunk" with which it connects and plan on making this a magnetic switch once I get the ring magnets ordered; so I removed it by heat. Using the large pair of pliers I had used on the button, I held the brass center pin and started heating it with the girlfriends crazy kitchen torch (it had butane). I heated it for about 30 seconds and then dropped it into cool water. Hissing, but no pop. I then added ice cubes to the water and did it again for about the same 30 seconds (looked like those CG scenes of the moon capsules on re-entry). Once again, hiss, but no pop. On the third try, I heated it for at least 1 minute 30 seconds. The magnet popped out as soon as it hit the water.

Hope that helps anyone still fighting with the button and magnet :)
 

bapgood

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alrite bap, where did the rest of those parts come from and what are they? you gonna need to do a more detailed write-up, unless you're cheating and making your own parts :p

Yes sorry I'm cheating....but I'm liking the feel of the magnetic button but I won't know how well it really feels works until I pick up another mod....or two after seeing the two tone above....I think some flame colored ss mixed with some aged brass will look great.
 
So I disassembled the #19 brass/copper bottom cap. I have to say that it was harder than disassembling the #19v2. I dunno if they used a different type of glue, but it was harder to remove and it's a different color

First, I boiled it in water for 30 minutes.

Second I soaked it in 99% isopropyl for 30 minutes

Third, I slotted the magnet to fit a flat head.

Fourth, mounted the bottom cap on a vice-grip; used a kitchen glove for grip/protection.

Fifth, Used a electric drill with a flat-head screwdriver bit to undo the bolt from the button, it popped out in 3 seconds. (I tried unscrewing by hand but it wouldn't budge).

8DVNDUe.jpg


lQcxvSN.jpg


xsbiSnJ.jpg

(different glue, red loctite?)

I'm not sure if the alcohol did anything this time, since there was so much glue still left.

I really wanted to try hoppes #9 but I've read that it is a brass solvent, and they didn't carry it at my local walmart (damn walmart).

nXfKr4n.jpg


Didn't like the stock finish so i brushed and polished it
 
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Still haven't fired mine since I don't have batteries yet, but I don't understand how people are getting shocked from their mods at ~4V. That isn't enough voltage to get through the human skin resistance unless maybe you have open wounds all over your hands. The only possibility I can think is that the springs inside are acting as an inductor and any break in the contact causes inductive kickback which spikes the voltage higher. But a spring with just a couple turns and air core wouldn't have much inductance at all so I'm not sure that's it either.

Also I doubt its the button spring, since the current should mostly go from the bost to the button to the locking ring and doesn't need to go through the button spring which is resting on a non-conductive delrin cup. That just leaves the battery spring. Has anyone found a correlation to the shocking and whether or not the battery spring is there?
 

Zak Rabbit

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Yes sorry I'm cheating....but I'm liking the feel of the magnetic button but I won't know how well it really feels works until I pick up another mod....or two after seeing the two tone above....I think some flame colored ss mixed with some aged brass will look great.

Looks fantastic! I completely screwed up my delrin cup when I heated the button so I'm watching this closely as I have access to a lathe.
What are you using for the threads into the switch itself? M6 x 1.0 or 0.5? I don't know if it was the thread lock they used or if it was cross threaded, but the post was buggered up when I finally got it out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
 
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minimalsaint

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Yes sorry I'm cheating....but I'm liking the feel of the magnetic button but I won't know how well it really feels works until I pick up another mod....or two after seeing the two tone above....I think some flame colored ss mixed with some aged brass will look great.

Hopefully USPS will have that problem solved by Wednesday!
 
Removing the magnet from the button was harder than I had originally thought.

For those having trouble removing the brass and don't mind replacing with a bolt or tapping the original, try a square screw extractor.

A few minutes of drilling, couple taps from a hammer, and remove with a vice and crescent wrench.

Now to find a bolt that fits the original threads. Can anyone verify a bolt/screw that fits into the button?
 

the4thpower3

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Removing the magnet from the button was harder than I had originally thought.

For those having trouble removing the brass and don't mind replacing with a bolt or tapping the original, try a square screw extractor.

A few minutes of drilling, couple taps from a hammer, and remove with a vice and crescent wrench.

Now to find a bolt that fits the original threads. Can anyone verify a bolt/screw that fits into the button?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/420420-sigelei-19-tips-tricks-donts-67.html

m6 x .75
 

eHuman

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This is how my nzonic top cap looks when screw down all the way. It has a huge gap, none like the ones i've seen on here. Does anyone else have this problem?

View attachment 228663
Similar issues here:
I have a SS 19b with nzonic cap and a 19 copper (brass) with nzonic cap. What I noticed when swapping parts for two-tone effect, the brass head has two threads on it and the SS one has three threads on it.

The brass one with shorter threads will fit on the SS inner sleeve as it's female threads run deeper, but the SS cap with longer threads will not sit flush on the brass inner sleeve as it's female threads run shallower.

I don't think it is as easy as grabbing the right tap and cutting the threads deeper. there is a shoulder that acts as a positive stop for the nzonic head. Proper fix is to cut the shoulder down to the right depth and complete the threading, alas I don't have a mill/lathe to do it right, so I had to compromise and only sway the middle tubes to get a two-toned effect.
 

minimalsaint

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Similar issues here:
I have a SS 19b with nzonic cap and a 19 copper (brass) with nzonic cap. What I noticed when swapping parts for two-tone effect, the brass head has two threads on it and the SS one has three threads on it.

The brass one with shorter threads will fit on the SS inner sleeve as it's female threads run deeper, but the SS cap with longer threads will not sit flush on the brass inner sleeve as it's female threads run shallower.

I don't think it is as easy as grabbing the right tap and cutting the threads deeper. there is a shoulder that acts as a positive stop for the nzonic head. Proper fix is to cut the shoulder down to the right depth and complete the threading, alas I don't have a mill/lathe to do it right, so I had to compromise and only sway the middle tubes to get a two-toned effect.

If you flip the tubes (vent holes at the bottom) then the nzonic cap will thread into the top tube. Otherwise I had the exact same problem.
 
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