Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[Statistic]

There are a lot of people vaping that know little to nothing about electricity, many of them gravitate towards sub one ohm. Battery casings can shrink from overheating inside the mod before you even see it. Some people may not realize that if this happens, and the positive post of the battery is pointed any direction other than away from the largest mass it is near when inserted into the mod (for most human beings this will be the Earth) the atomizer will be bypassed and they will be holding a complete circuit with almost no resistance. They also probably do not realize that if this happens they could accidentally decimate a city block, or ruin their equipment and maybe burn their hand.

 

[rolbyroland]

Does anyone know where I can buy a bottom switch for Sigelei 19b? Or someone can give me the measures ? I got a sigelei 19b without the bottom switch and I want to ask a friend to make me one.

Thank you!

 

[whit77]

Does anyone know where I can buy a bottom switch for Sigelei 19b? Or someone can give me the measures ? I got a sigelei 19b without the bottom switch and I want to ask a friend to make me one.

Thank you!

Vapegear uk

http://www.vapegear.co.uk/product/19btn

 

[rolbyroland]

Vapegear uk

Sigelei Telescope

THANK YOU! I looked on that site already and I have not seen...

Edit: out of stock

 

[whit77]

THANK YOU! I looked on that site already and I have not seen...

Edit: out of stock

Really that's a shame, they had hundreds the other week

 

[CountSmackula]

I spoke to Gary @ Celtic Vapes today & he's supposed to be getting some in very soon. He'll list them here (sigelei spares) when they come in.

 

[jhjohnson123]

Polished body with original brushed end caps. I removed the spring from the top cap and fattened up the switch spring so it is now always in contact with the wall of the locking ring. I like the longer throw so no o ring. Works great now.

 

[corpus]

Hey is it weird that my bottom cap won't thread into the top of the mod? I've seen people reversing the caps, but it won't work on mine. The threads get stuck half way. Like really stuck. Interestingly, the top (nzonic) cap will still thread into the bottom.

I had this issue at first.. a bit of vazeline and twisting got it working...still feels like it catches somewhere..
i use a button from another mod though, but it worked on one tube and got stuck on the other..

 

[RPadTV]

There are a lot of people vaping that know little to nothing about electricity, many of them gravitate towards sub one ohm.

I'd like to think that everyone here knows at least something about electricity...or at least acknowledges its existence.

 

[NamVet68]

Got the new #19e all back together after modifying the button assy (copper-wire mod & replaced the spring with two opposing ring magnets - NO spring in the button assembly now). Nice light button push with only about a 2mm throw, but won't auto-fire even with an Oddy on it. Polished up the top & bottom but left the tubes brushed-finish. I was thinking of polishing up the whole thing, but I'm kinda liking the current look, so I might just keep it as-is.

Hits like a Mack truck...my new favorite mechanical. Kudos to Sigelei on this one.....

 

[shihchuansun]

Here's my variation of the #19 modifications.

Filed down original cap to flush with grinding stone mounted on drill press, then finished with 100 & 200 grit sand paper for brushed look.

Removed Spring and using just the brass screw for battery contact.

Because of how much I filed away from the top cap, the terminal connection actually needs to be backed out quite a bit.

Bottom button modified for shortened throw, fixed misfires, and lowered resistance.

Here are all the parts to my bottom button.

The original brass post is modded to have a brass screw as contacts, 2 o-rings and a plastic washer as spacers to shorten throw.

The post was tapped to fit the screw, but it ended up being too loose for some reason. The o-ring and washer combo made the screw more rigid and level.

You can see that the distance between the insulating cup and the top of the brass post is about 1mm, that space is the button throw

A washer was added below the insulating cup to give a better conductivity for the spring instead of just the sidewalls

Unfortunately the added space of the washer meant that the insulating cup would not screw down all the way.

This caused a problem because if I loosened the lock ring, the insulating cup would loosen and either cause battery rattle or mess up the spacing for the lock ring. This was fixed by adding an o-ring to the insulating cup to compensate the space taken by the added washer.

Here is the finished button in all its glory

All put together with RSST running dual coil with stainless rope and mesh liner setup at .4 ohms vaping 100% VG Hanami Sado (Personal mix)

 

[BWhare]

Got the new #19e all back together after modifying the button assy (copper-wire mod & replaced the spring with two opposing ring magnets - NO spring in the button assembly now). Nice light button push with only about a 2mm throw, but won't auto-fire even with an Oddy on it. Polished up the top & bottom but left the tubes brushed-finish. I was thinking of polishing up the whole thing, but I'm kinda liking the current look, so I might just keep it as-is.

Hits like a Mack truck...my new favorite mechanical. Kudos to Sigelei on this one.....

View attachment 227283 View attachment 227285 View attachment 227284

I'd love to see pics of a breakdown of your switch assembly. Any chance?

 

[NamVet68]

I'd love to see pics of a breakdown of your switch assembly. Any chance?

I used the same technique that Gdeal came up with here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...8-sigelei-mechnical-mods-221.html#post9896490

In his write up, he stated that he had to open up the magnets to fit on the button post, but the ring magnets I got were a perfect fit...as if they were made specifically for this purpose... These:
SuperMagnetMan

I used a slightly different method of wrapping the wire, but essentially it's the same as Gdeal's concept. I also didn't remove the bottom magnet but used a 14mm copper washer on top of it, so I didn't need the o-ring spacer to shorten the throw. The next time I take the switch apart I'll take some pictures if necessary, but I've got a lot of other projects that need done right now, so it will have to wait...

Great mod though... it works beautifully. It feels like no other button I've ever tried...smooth as silk, and no gritty feel at all...it's spoiling me.

 

[gdeal]

Ok...this g..d... switch wont budge. Hammer time didn't work (but it felt good taking out a little aggression...), gripper didnt work.....anybody got a Plan "B"...Did an acetone bath work?

OK Chirren... I got the switch apart on the #19e, and it wasn't too difficult in the long run (though I tried many techniques that have worked for me getting frozen-together Motorcycle parts apart - no joy). I almost used the old-cut-a-slot-in-the-magnet trick, but I wanted to keep the bottom magnet intact (I kind of like it now), and I didn't want to mar the brass button of at all possible.

What finally worked was placing the button on top of my padded vice (any sturdy flat surface with a bit of thin padding will work), pushed the button down so the magnet/cup was above the surface of the Delrin cup, and gave it a couple of good bashes with a nylon-faced hammer (you could also use a piece of plastic/wood/etc and a regular small hammer). Then I just grabbed a pair of my gripper disks (those rubber disks used to help open jars - my new favorite tool for getting stuck MODs apart), put them on either end of the switch and placed it in the heels of the palms of my hands & twisted in opposite directions - came apart as clean as can be.

There was absolutely NO glue on the button or post (at least in mine), but brass has a habit of "gripping" to itself much better than most other metals (galling). The force of the blows seemed to have been enough to break their bond so they could be twisted apart...whatever, the switch is fully dissasembled now without any damage or marks whatsoever ...

Let the modding begin!

Good luck

EDIT: On closer inspection, there was a very small amount of something in the threads of the fire button, but I don't know if it was really glue, or just general crud from the manufacturing process....since there was such a small amount, I doubt it was actually glue.....and remember - the button & post are functionally part of the switch, so they need to have good conductivity between themselves.

 

[Stoneface]

Ok...this g..d... switch wont budge. Hammer time didn't work (but it felt good taking out a little aggression...), gripper didnt work.....anybody got a Plan "B"...Did an acetone bath work?

Same here...I'm still at the back of the short bus



EDIT: I haven't tried boiling yet, I'm a little chicken to try it. I don't want to melt the delrin...

 

[DkGanz]

I did a little modification on my #19e today. Nothing new. I did the o-ring to shorten the button throw. Spread the button spring so it touches the sidewall. Noaloxed all the threads. Did voltage tests with two different multimeters. Both show less than a tenth drop in voltage. So I think I'll just leave the button magnet in place for now. I also bent the very tip of the top spring down because it was drilling a hole into my battery. Doesn't seem to be causing any more damage, yet. I've been considering taking a brass thumbtack, cutting off the pin, and soldering the cap of the tack to the top spring so it makes a nice, smooth contact surface. I gotta check into whether that's a viable solution as of yet. But, I am considering it. Other than that, the device is working quite well.

 

[CountSmackula]

EDIT: I haven't tried boiling yet, I'm a little chicken to try it. I don't want to melt the delrin...

Delrin's melting point is ~350° (F), so I think boiling it shouldn't present a problem.

 

[Bmays]

Ok...this g..d... switch wont budge. Hammer time didn't work (but it felt good taking out a little aggression...), gripper didnt work.....anybody got a Plan "B"...Did an acetone bath work?

Do what I did. Concentrate the torch flame to right dead center of the bottom button long enough to heat it, but not near hot enough to melt the derlin. That loosed up the adhesive enough to get the button off (worked fast) and there were no adverse affects from the heat.

 

[gdeal]

Do what I did. Concentrate the torch flame to right dead center of the bottom button long enough to heat it, but not near hot enough to melt the derlin. That loosed up the adhesive enough to get the button off (worked fast) and there were no adverse affects from the heat.

Thanks for the tip, but it was a no-go. That button is fused on. I hit the button with a torch three separate times, then tried Nam's hammer fix again. ugh...Tomorrow is another day, of course I am not giving up, I just want to vape this thing.

So since there really is nothing really wrong with the switch, my temp mod is adding a brass nut centered and secured in a custom plastic washer and then filed it down to tune the length of the throw. The brass/plastic washer sits comfortably in the delrin on top of the magnet so that I now have about a .5mm to 1mm throw. V drop from stock was another .05v, so not too bad. Now I gotta go polish this tarnish monster up.

 

[Stoneface]

Delrin's melting point is ~350° (F), so I think boiling it shouldn't present a problem.

Thanks for the melting point, I didn't know...but following up with a dummy question(s)...Doesn't the pan get hotter than that to get the water to boil? And is that heat transferred to the switch since metal is a good conductor of heat? Just checking... I just don't want to ruin the switch when replacements are only available from the UK. I tried soaking it in alcohol, and my magnet reacted to the alcohol (it's now pocked).