I got got 1/4-28 brass bolt and tried it, it only threads about 1/2 turn before binding.
I got got 1/4-28 brass bolt and tried it, it only threads about 1/2 turn before binding.
Did you re-tap the hole in your button for 1/4-28? I wouldn't think that would work out very well with the existing threads there.
Update: FINALLY! Got my old boss, a vise, some clamps, 2 grinders, 2 boils, 2 freezes, a 12+ hour acetone bath, back to the grinder/vise/screwdriver and bam. Im so excited
Now my delrins got a few notches from having to grind way in... im unsure whether I should sand it all flat or rebuild with glue. Also my brass cup has a couple tiny notches in the sides... hopefully that wont matter. Might sand those so it looks not crummy. Now to start stuffing copper.
Thanks for the help guys, I reqlly appreciate it. This is my second mechanical and my first time tearing one apart so ill be around
Sent from my Note 2 on Tapatalk 4
Solid brass firing pin for the #19![]()
http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/Segelei_solid_brass_firing_pin_x_1/p2086842_10150530.aspx
![]()
Nice! I ordered the regular pin, they didn't have the solid brass at the time. Gary is a nice fellow btw and they do ship in the U.S.A.
Quick question. Will the gold spring from a vamo or #20 in thr button housing upside down work to stop the spark throwing?
It makes perfect contact all the way around and if I cut the nubbin off itll wrap nicely on the button.
I have copper wire, but im trying to avoid that
Sent from my Note 2 on Tapatalk 4
Wouldn't a true "hot spring" (one that's built to collapse when a certain amount of current is passed through it) be detrimental for use within the switch? I mean, if the spring did collapse wouldn't it have the opposite effect - continuously firing rather than breaking contact with the battery.