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Hrmmmm.....No dice. I tried with all my (admittedly meager) strength to unscrew the post but it would not budge. Again, feel free to talk to me like I'm a simpleton, because when it comes to things like this, I most certainly AM. 
Maybe these photos will be....useful?
Maybe these photos will be....useful?
....Hrmmmm.....No dice. I tried with all my (admittedly meager) strength to unscrew the post but it would not budge. Again, feel free to talk to me like I'm a simpleton, because when it comes to things like this, I most certainly AM.
Maybe these photos will be....useful?
The center pin can sometimes be pretty snug the first time you unscrew it, but it's easy after you first get it loose. The part you want to turn is the little gold disk that the small silver Phillips-head screws into - that's the backside of your positive pin. If you have a set of needle-nose pliers, you should be able to grab that pin & turn it (counterclockwise).
BTW - Make sure the atty in NOT in the head the first time you do this - otherwise, you will be fighting the friction of the atty as well as the Delrin. Once you get it started, you can usually turn it the rest of the way with your fingers.
Good luck...
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The best thing I can think to do is grab the white plastic insulator with a pair of pliers like the pic or take the phillips screw out and remove the spring and then grab the brass head with pliers and unscrew.
Thanks folks! My hands are shot for today so I might tackle this tomorrow.
That gap DOES irritate me ever so much.....
That gap DOES irritate me ever so much.....
I don't have a depth caliper handy, hopefully someone already knows. If I file the 510 connector down flush so the atty sits flush, will I need to file the delrin down so the atty doesn't bottom out before fitting flush? I'll probably do it tomorrow at work and just want an idea what to expect.
I am guessing that would depend on you atty 510 pin... you can always unscrew the delrin a bit to adjust the 510 mod pin a bit..
I don't have a 19e but on the b, the top cap's 510 connector didn't come with a flush fit. There was a similarly noticeable gap between the atty and the head that was being caused by the tube sticking up too far on both the original and nzonic heads. The only way to remove the gap was to grind the top of the cap down with a dremel or similar grinder. It doesn't take long but hopefully that's not the issue with the current problem.
If you unscrew the delrin sleeve off, screw the IgoL on and see if it fits flush before you put anything back together - y'know, just in case...
If you unscrew the delrin sleeve off, screw the IgoL on and see if it fits flush before you put anything back together - y'know, just in case...
Yep. The stupid 510 connector sits about 2mm above the top of the cap. I had ground mine down the hard way (sandpaper) because I didn't trust myself with a grinder of any sort for the job. Keep in mind that if you do grind the connector flush, the delrin & positive pin will be too high in the connector, so adjustments need to be made to that as well. I just sliced a little bit off of the delrin and adjusted the pin back so the atty would screw in and sit flush.
Oh, the things we do LOL.
wait- does your have the nzonic cap or the one with the deep well?
Thank you, but let's pretend I never asked. Once I read those replies I realized I was over thinking it. I was thinking I would need a set of depth calipers, do a bit of math, adjust it accordingly. I guess the easy way would work too. Try it, see if it fits, adjust. I'm done for the day, I'm going to bed.
Mine is not the nzonic, it's the one with the deep well. Which leads me to another question. At the moment, I only have iclear30's which have the air hole on the 510 threading. To use these, I'll need the notches in the top of the connector, correct? Instead of notches, can I drill holes (like 4 1/32 holes) through the delrin between the cap and center pin? Is it a bad idea to draw air from the battery tube?
Mmmmmmm I would not suggest it for the sake of weakening the delrin. I suppose I'm in the mindset of my genesis with a top cap airflow. The only thing I can think of would be to sand or grind the cap flat, then use a file or hacksaw blade to cut airflow channels into the top of the cap and connector- read: "X".
I suppose it is all dependent on how involved you want to get. My frequently mentioned OCD just couldn't deal with the gap, so it had to go. If you can deal with it, the best way would be just to leave it alone.
I've used the iclear 30 on a Vamo V2 with a well similar to your mech mod. The air holes are just above the 510 threading of the iclear. I haven't had any airflow issues on the Vamo, so I would try it first without worrying about the airflow and see if there really is a problem to solve.
Not a good idea. If your battery starts to vent...you're going to be inhaling some pretty toxic stuff. Even batteries that don't go into full-vent will sometimes release nasty gasses if they start to overheat..
A better idea is to cut a notch or two into the sanded top cap - look at the top of an 8w or a 13...the notched caps can look pretty good. All your really need is a few seconds with a Dremel & a cut-off wheel....the notches don't need to be very large or deep to be effective.
Good luck
Whooo. And you thought dry hits were bad. Makes my lungs scream just thinking about it.
My fear with the notches on the cap is that mine is fully polished and I know I don't have the most steady hand with a dremel. I may try making a jig to hold it vertical and put it on the band saw, it should do a pretty clean cut.
I modded my sigelei 19b switch. I used braided copper to ground the switch to the tube. I took out the magnet and replaced it with braided copper. I basically un-braided the copper into a big pile and formed a tight cylindrical shape and pressure fitted it into where the magnet use to sit. I sanded the bottom of my RSST positive post. Sanded out that point and made a larger surface area. I did nothing to the spring
Here's my problem with a slightly used efest 18650 at 4v, I am getting a voltage drop off of 0.5v. I wrapped a 0.8ohm with a twisted 28guage kanthal. I used my handy dandy multimeter and measured at the posts. I get no voltage drop off unloaded. As soon as I put the rsst on, It drops to 3.5v (at the posts).
What are you guys getting? And if its in the 0 to .25 range, any suggestions?
I basically read this entire post and I tried almost everything. I like the pressure fitted braided copper. i took it from a computer power cord.
I appreciate any help and ideas.
Here's my problem with a slightly used efest 18650 at 4v, I am getting a voltage drop off of 0.5v. I wrapped a 0.8ohm with a twisted 28guage kanthal. I used my handy dandy multimeter and measured at the posts. I get no voltage drop off unloaded. As soon as I put the rsst on, It drops to 3.5v (at the posts).
What are you guys getting? And if its in the 0 to .25 range, any suggestions?
I basically read this entire post and I tried almost everything. I like the pressure fitted braided copper. i took it from a computer power cord.
I appreciate any help and ideas.
I think you are close.
From your numbers, your should see ~3.9v at posts if you build the RSST to 1.5Ω and fully charged the battery to 4.2v.
I would recommend adding a bit noalox or ox-guard to the mod threads.
For a more convincing result,
Try a Panasonic or AW battery if you have one
Use a more simply constructed RBA such as igo-L
From your numbers, your should see ~3.9v at posts if you build the RSST to 1.5Ω and fully charged the battery to 4.2v.
I would recommend adding a bit noalox or ox-guard to the mod threads.
For a more convincing result,
Try a Panasonic or AW battery if you have one
Use a more simply constructed RBA such as igo-L
You can't completely get rid of voltage drop, and most of that drop is probably happening inside the battery, since all batteries have their own internal resistance. The more current you draw the more drop you will get.
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