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I just ordered my sigelei 19 v2 from richmanvapors.com! YES I said it v2 (version 2) instead of a magnet on each side it has the original magnet switch in the bottom and a spring and brass screw center post on the top cap. I haven't had any miss fires at all. I think they fixed the conductivity problem.
Day two with my 19. Lots of misfires today 
Still hits like a truck when it hits but I'm finding if the button is perfectly centered in the lock ring when pressed it doesn't fire. So I've been pressing in and top the side, which works but is irritating. I haven't been shocked by it but if I turn it upside down and move the button around while I'm firing it I can see little arcs of electricity between the button and lock ring as it makes and breaks contact.
Still hits like a truck when it hits but I'm finding if the button is perfectly centered in the lock ring when pressed it doesn't fire. So I've been pressing in and top the side, which works but is irritating. I haven't been shocked by it but if I turn it upside down and move the button around while I'm firing it I can see little arcs of electricity between the button and lock ring as it makes and breaks contact.
Day two with my 19. Lots of misfires today
As much as I enjoy electric lightshows, the button mod for the 19 is so simple and makes the device shine (even with the magnets)... What is holding ya back?
Studiovap nailed this ~two weeks ago.
Link to post here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724
I hadn't seen that yet. Thanks!!
lol.. I do have to agree though the light show its kind of fun to watch
edit- done.. night and day..
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Were did you get the braided copper? I get my #19 tomorrow and Nzonic head. Im guessing ill need to do this fix... Im using the GG KTS and it feels like with a .9ohm coil and a fresh charged battery... its just not enough
If you are talking about the link above....It was just an old braided ground wire I had laying around, any twisted copper will work, make sure you size it for a nice compression fit between the lock cap and delrin insulator lip.
I found an old desk lamp in the garage that still needs to be repaired (after spending about 10 years out there, lol).. that's where I got my copper wire. The power cord for it is 18g copper
I bought a #19 a few days ago and also had issues with voltage drop - .7v on a .8 ohm coil with Panasonic CGR18650CH's.
I removed the magnets and gain a few 10th's. I also tried the copper wire mod from this thread, but didn't like how it affected the throw and it made the switch feel like it was grinding. I remember I bought this and never used it a few months ago: Hakko Cleaning Wire, For 599B Tip Cleaner - Amazon.com
They sell something similar at Radioshack for $10. I cut a piece off and shoved it into the switch -
Voltage drop is now .3v which is right in line with my other mods and the battery spec. The switch throw is the same and it feels smooth.
I removed the magnets and gain a few 10th's. I also tried the copper wire mod from this thread, but didn't like how it affected the throw and it made the switch feel like it was grinding. I remember I bought this and never used it a few months ago: Hakko Cleaning Wire, For 599B Tip Cleaner - Amazon.com
They sell something similar at Radioshack for $10. I cut a piece off and shoved it into the switch -
Voltage drop is now .3v which is right in line with my other mods and the battery spec. The switch throw is the same and it feels smooth.
I bought a #19 a few days ago and also had issues with voltage drop - .7v on a .8 ohm coil with Panasonic CGR18650CH's.
I removed the magnets and gain a few 10th's. I also tried the copper wire mod from this thread, but didn't like how it affected the throw and it made the switch feel like it was grinding. I remember I bought this and never used it a few months ago: Hakko Cleaning Wire, For 599B Tip Cleaner - Amazon.com
They sell something similar at Radioshack for $10. I cut a piece off and shoved it into the switch -
Voltage drop is now .3v which is right in line with my other mods and the battery spec. The switch throw is the same and it feels smooth.
Meatsneakers - Nice!
I have a copper wire in mine and dont get grinding, I but I like your find. I assume that is brass? I gonna pack that stuff into my #8 switch.
Yea I forgot to mention it's basically just brass wool. I used a tiny fraction of the pad for this switch, I'll see if any other mods would benefit from some. It's very springy so it stays pressed tightly against everything without binding.
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This is the same thing from RadioShack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=15693336
They carry it in most of the stores, just check the local stock.
edit-
This is the same thing from RadioShack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=15693336
They carry it in most of the stores, just check the local stock.
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Measure the battery by itself, then measure at the posts of the atty while firing. I'm done modding mechanicals when the voltage drop is inline with what the battery is capable of: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Callies Kustoms 2250mAh (Grey) UK.html
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This is the best fix right here... came up at work yesterday. Fellow co-worker / homie had extra amp wire in his ride. Knew it! Dude likes to bump. Bass be bangin' when he rolls up. lol
Thanks gdeal!
Just got my 19 today from exhale, top cap with spring and magnet on the switch. Also got the nzonic head to go along but with a magnetic post. Took the spring from the original cap and transferred it to the nzonic head. Not a big fan of the magnet on the switch so I took it out and de-magnetized it lol I just heated it up and now its non magnetic, sanded it a bit and checked the resistance and got 0.0Ω installed back to the switch. I'll eventually drill, tap, and install a brass screw on it but so far the 19 hits hard! I'm already in love with it, no misfires working fantastic. I wanted to check the resistance of the mod and my results are I would say pretty good. I found a post on the "ask the vets" thread on how to check internal resistance and just followed that.
multimeter Innova 3320 auto ranging, internal resistance 0Ω, mock battery (wooden dowel wrapped in foil)
mock battery, resistance check
igo-l @ 0.6Ω switch open
switched closed or awesome vape mode
multimeter Innova 3320 auto ranging, internal resistance 0Ω, mock battery (wooden dowel wrapped in foil)
mock battery, resistance check
igo-l @ 0.6Ω switch open
switched closed or awesome vape mode
That method doesn't really tell you much about the resistance of the mod as the multimeter won't be able to accurately measure such low ohms. http://www.robotroom.com/Measuring-Low-Resistances.html has a good guide.
Check the voltage of your battery with no load, then the voltage at the atty while firing.
Check the voltage of your battery with no load, then the voltage at the atty while firing.
Except this doesn't take the battery's internal resistance into account.
If the mod itself offers no resistance then how could it possibly contribute to voltage loss? If the resistance is so low it can't be read by a dmm then how could that translate to a measurable voltage loss?
I agree with statistic. Too many variables like internal resistance of the batt, quality of the battery, current level... I read atmizoo's blog on voltage drop testing and the reason why I just did the resistance test, quick and easy for a cheap mechanical mod. From what I gathered around a resistance of 0.1 ohm is acceptable. I was just curious on how good the connections are after sanding and playing around with the mod. I did check my k100 and that one is showing around 0.2ohm I have to sand the switch and positive connection to expose more brass.
If you are looking to unglue the bottom cap of the #19 v.2 maybe this can help:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-bottom-cap-firing-mechanism-disassembly.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-bottom-cap-firing-mechanism-disassembly.html
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