Sigelei #19 Tips, tricks, and DON'Ts

[juicefreak]

I used a piece of non-resistance wire, wrapped it around the spring and stuffed it under the lip that the button pushes up against when pressed all the way down. I was finding that I would get misfires or shocks unless I made sure to push the firing button to the side. I don't know the engineering on why it works, maybe because the NR wire helps to conduct current to the tube body to complete the connection.
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michiu, i've seen your fix before and i'm not sure what NR wire is. That's not kanthal or nicochrome is it? is it house wiring? we have plenty of that in the garage from remodeling our 100 yr old house. I also have some enamel coated magnetic wire from radio shack that i bought to mod several years ago.

would any of these work? I wish the spring was designed to actually seat in the button so it doesn't move all over the place when you screw the button on. Kinda like the puresmoker legacy had in it's first design.

so no hot button or shocks after using your wire fix? i found when i push the button longer, that's when i get hot button now after my other adjustments. i have COPD so i take short drags and usually hit the button several times per drag, but this morning i held it longer, because i don't want to wear the button out, and that's when i got hot button again. I've also had hot button on my P18 at times, but that's usually a short somewhere. I'm afraid of shorts lol

very strange design by Sig. it looks beefy which is what attracted me to the device, and being stainless, because i drop stuff all the time, but the shocks and hot button are a pita. sometimes i can feel the button pulsing when i push it too. i don't know if that's the sig K volt board i'm using in it, the neuropathy in my hands, or something else.

thank you so much guys for all your help. i ask a lot of questions i know ;-)

 

[juicefreak]

to fix the misfires all i did was take some pliers and widen one end of the spring in the button so that it fits snug and makes constant contact with the button housing. Pretty simple to do, but if you havent taken the button apart yet and its glued then thats gonna be a pain.

ooh i'm going to try that! i can see how it would work, because that spring is all over the place when i put the button back on. i even had trouble screwing the button on because crap keeps moving under it. hard to get it started on the threads.

 

[Lhartman89]

michiu, i've seen your fix before and i'm not sure what NR wire is. That's not kanthal or nicochrome is it? is it house wiring? we have plenty of that in the garage from remodeling our 100 yr old house. I also have some enamel coated magnetic wire from radio shack that i bought to mod several years ago.

NR is No-Resistance wire.

 

[juicefreak]

i think stretching the spring helped! i'm going to see how this does first, before adding the NR wire, once i find out what that is ;-)

 

[juicefreak]

NR is No-Resistance wire.

yes i understand that part, i just don't know where to get it or if i already have it

 

[juicefreak]

ok i think the magnetic wire i have is NR wire. this is what i have 315-Ft. Magnet Wire Set : Wire Sets | RadioShack.com

 

[Lhartman89]

yes i understand that part, i just don't know where to get it or if i already have it

Really, any wire will work. Some people have even used speaker wire. All it is doing is making a solid connection from the button/firing pin to the end cap to help complete the circuit. Hope this makes sense.

 

[NamVet68]

ok i think the magnetic wire i have is NR wire. this is what i have 315-Ft. Magnet Wire Set : Wire Sets | RadioShack.com

That will work fine, but you will have to remove the coating off the parts that will come into contact with the spring & the housing in order to make good contact. Since it's enamel coated, just scrape it off with a knife until you get it down to bare wire (or an emery board would work too )
Good luck

 

[Lhartman89]

That will work fine, but you will have to remove the coating off the parts that will come into contact with the spring & the housing in order to make good contact. Since it's enamel coated, just scrape it off with a knife until you get it down to bare wire (or an emery board would work too )
Good luck

I agree. I would use the 22ga as it's thicker wire. Also, you might be able to heat the wire to get the coating off, then wipe it away. You might also be able to use paint stripper or something to but the easiest is what NamVet said.

 

[michliu]

The NR wire I used was just nickel wire I use with my Oddy clone. I've also tried silver wire and that works but has less spring in it than nickel.

 

[juicefreak]

thank you so much guys. i'm glad i have what i need here already. So far stretching the spring has done the trick. That spring is too narrow in the 19 so it just flops around. It's now easier to screw in the bottom button also.

i really appreciate all your help and tips

 

[juicefreak]

to fix the misfires all i did was take some pliers and widen one end of the spring in the button so that it fits snug and makes constant contact with the button housing. Pretty simple to do, but if you havent taken the button apart yet and its glued then thats gonna be a pain.

oh yeah this is an amazing tweak. that you waanngg!

 

[juicefreak]

The issue with the 19 switch is that stock spring contact is poor at the button and inside at the base. Could be either that the spring is not sitting well when compressed or that oxidation occurred. Both can create focal points for current which create the spark/hot spot effect.

The fix is simple. Just eliminate the spring from the path of current by using either NR wire (see michliu post) or the copper wire mod posted earlier here (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...78-sigelei-mechnical-mods-42.html#post9614724)

Or you can buy a better spring...per namvet69

thank you for that explanation and tips. I'll watch for oxidation on the spring. I wouldn't have thought of that. I did try my precise P18 extra spring in there, but it was smaller diameter. i didn't actually fire it up. I might try that again. I have about 3 of those springs HD, and stock. I may also give those a light sand for oxidation. They are about 3 yrs old.

 

[Statistic]

Finally got around to polishing my 19

 

[Bmays]

Finally got around to polishing my 19

Wow, I normally dont like polished mods but that looks great. Thanks for the picture!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[NamVet68]

Finally got around to polishing my 19

Looks Great! I'm still debating whether I want to polish my Brass #19e when it arrives....

 

[whit77]

Finally got around to polishing my 19

Wow what did you use to get it that mirror finish

Good job man

 

[gdeal]

Finally got around to polishing my 19

Wow. Nice Job! I can almost see you in that reflection taking the picture.

 

[Statistic]

Wow, I normally dont like polished mods but that looks great. Thanks for the picture!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

Thank you

Looks Great! I'm still debating whether I want to polish my Brass #19e when it arrives....

I am just about to order one and will without a doubt be shining it up. I think that mod will look amazing polished.

Wow what did you use to get it that mirror finish

Good job man

Thanks

Sandpaper from Autozone. 400, 600, 1000, 2000, 2000 wet.

Wow. Nice Job! I can almost see you in that reflection taking the picture.

Ha yeah. It took two rounds of polishing, after the first go I could still see the machine marks from the original finish. I am really tempted to polish my Terminator-C to match.

 

[NamVet68]

Thank you
..... I am really tempted to polish my Terminator-C to match.

They look pretty good polished up (Ody Clone - I still need more work on the drip-tip/juice adjuster & tank):