Works on every Harley I've ever owned....
"As my grandmother used to say, anything mechanical, give it a good bash." CMDR. COLIN MAUD, Royal Navy on D-Day - Sword Beach
From "THE LONGEST DAY" (1962): Sword Beach - YouTube
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Works on every Harley I've ever owned....
"As my grandmother used to say, anything mechanical, give it a good bash." CMDR. COLIN MAUD, Royal Navy on D-Day - Sword Beach
From "THE LONGEST DAY" (1962): Sword Beach - YouTube
I heard it "hits harder", I don't agree. I do it to shorten the throw equal to the length of the button.
I just finished modding mine up. At first i was getting the miss fires and so-so performance out of it. At first i was getting almost 1 volt of voltage drop with my efest 18350's. All i did was sand down my bottom magnet enough so it was flush (mine was glued in at an angle), put an oring around the brass bolt to shorten the throw, noaloxed the whole mech, and i just sreached out the bottom coil or so on the button sprin so it would stay in contact all around the lock ring inner walls. This fixed the problem. down to .5v drop, not to bad. At first i had the spring to tight against the walls in the lock ring and the spring would pop out of it and wedge against the delrin when i would lock the device. I mellowed out the spring a bit so it would sit in there a little tight yet, but loose enough to not pop out up against the delrin. i can now use my lockring and i have no misfires or fluctuation of voltage! The only mods that really needs to be done is the spring fix and noalox, then this device should work as good as it looks.
I am NOT arguing with you on this as I don't recommend it either. However, simply reversing the battery polarity in a mechanical mod has no affect on its operation or likelihood of a battery venting.
The mod tube would then be positive rather than ground. (Orion mods) Again, I am not arguing as I am one of the larger advocates of using the proper battery the proper way to prevent any negative news media coverage. If you have solid information I'd like to read it as there are more and more folks needed to be properly trained.
You are correct, the tube becomes positive if you insert the battery the wrong way. The metal case of the battery (which is insulated by the plastic wrapping on the battery) is always negative. IF the plastic battery skin ever becomes damaged and the metal battery casing contacts the inside of the tube then you will have a hard short in your hand.
Unlikely? Maybe.
Completely avoidable? Yes.
I am not saying inserting your battery the wrong way means certain and instant doom... but hard shorts are ugly (I know you know this) and in regards to battery orientation they are avoidable.
Agreed 100%! These devices are really safe if used the proper way, and REALLY dangerous if not! I used a "shortstop" for a while just to be extra cautious but I swear it causes voltage drop. Maybe just in my head as I never tested it.
I just did the button fix on my #19 and it seems like it might be hitting a little harder. I removed the magnet and replaced it with a brass screw by drilling a hole down the center of the firing pin and tapping it. I also used the copper wire between the locking ring and part that threads into the bottom of the mod and ran an end to the threads on the firing pin where the button screws on. Pretty happy with the fix. Also, to get it apart I cut a slot in the magnet with a dremel and then held the button in a vise and used a screw driver to get it apart. Just thought I would share.
I removed the magnet on my first 19, and polished the magnet on this second 19. I honestly cant tell a difference but they both work like a champ.
... and you still don't know better than to invert your batteries
Vape your way at your own risk. If you're going to advise people that inverting batteries, for whatever reason, is a good idea the least you could do is also mention the avoidable risk they are accepting by doing so.
Not to be the father here, but let's not turn this into a pissing match and kill this thread.
My attempt at a u-turn:
Been loving the 19 with my AGI- 19e should be arriving tomorrow! Stoked!
My attempt at a u-turn:
Been loving the 19 with my AGI- 19e should be arriving tomorrow! Stoked!
My 19 could whoop your 19
Sorry....I had to.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
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Hey is it weird that my bottom cap won't thread into the top of the mod? I've seen people reversing the caps, but it won't work on mine. The threads get stuck half way. Like really stuck. Interestingly, the top (nzonic) cap will still thread into the bottom.
That does look nice - I think I'll have to pick up an AGI as well.
Mine does; but I think there aren't enough thread cut into the top of the tube for the switch to screw all the way down (mine comes close, but about 0.5 mm from flush).
This whole battery upside down crap is still bothering me though.
I don't understand what you are saying?
The tube becomes positive? what does that mean?
I'm not an electrical engineer or proclaim to know anything, but, from what I understand...
Electrons from the battery only flow negative.
Electrons must flow through the tube/body (regardless of orientation) which is a conductor/resistor.
Electrons flow from the battery from the "negative" anode - through your conductor/resistor - back to the "positive" cathode of the battery. Right?
If anything - those people who say it hits harder with the battery "upside down" may be correct if they are running a stainless steel MOD because the negative electrons start current from the "negative" anode which must pass through (usually) a brass or copper contact which offers less resistance than steel - to get to the heater coil, then back to the "positive" cathode.
Otherwise - with the battery cathode up - the current must flow down through the switch, pass through the steel body (add resistance), then hit your coil (more resistance), and back to the positive side of the battery.
Which is another reason why people feel brass body mods have less "voltage drop" - they mean less resistance; no?
Regardless of that, I'm still not understanding why the orientation of the battery in a 2 way switched mechanical mod makes a difference?
What does that have to do with a short?
Anyways - what do I know, please correct me if I am wrong. I'll research it or find someone who really knows.
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... and you still don't know better than to invert your batteries
Vape your way at your own risk. If you're going to advise people that inverting batteries, for whatever reason, is a good idea the least you could do is also mention the avoidable risk they are accepting by doing so.
I've been vaping away at my own risk for over 4 years now, electronics has been my field for over a decade. Risk involves uncertainty, if I know what I am doing then where is my risk?
I did not mention the consequence caused from neglecting the "vape commandment" you boldly stated because I failed to realize that there are people who lack common sense and use batteries with damaged wraps. I apologize.
I'm all for keeping it safe, especially for the newbies, but you make it sound like a normal battery wrap can somehow magically damage itself while inside a mod to cause this short. Maybe the battery was ...... off because it was removed from the charger at 4V and decided to play a prank by undoing itself. Maybe the battery was jealous because it was getting less run time than its partner. All I know is that i've done short circuit tests on my older IMR's (AW,EH) and by the time the wrapping was damaged the battery had nothing left in it which brings me to the main point...
Instead of stating this "golden rule" of "positive always up, ALWAYS" (even though there are mods designed to use batteries + down, nope positive up, always) we should be saying Do not use batteries with damaged wraps AND regularly inspect your battery wrap for damage and fix/discard accordingly. If people can understand that, then how is this "Thou shalt not place thine battery positive down" risk even possible????
Placing a battery upside down is not the problem, a damaged wrap is. If you keep that in check there will be no "hard short", no "venting in your face", none of that bull..... I guess I should have said "use a fuse"
wait wut?
Basically if any of the covering on your battery comes off, the whole case is negative so if it contacts the case of the mod or side of the tube, when you press the button you get a hard short and the battery will heat up and either vent or explode. So basically when you hit the button, the positive completes through the switch and the exposed part of the case is touching the side of the mod so it will take the path of least resistance and the power will go from the tube to the neg part of the battery touching the tube and cause the battery to heat up/vent/explode.
Basically it's like taking two wires, one on the neg end and one on the pos end and touching them together. The switch is basically the ends of the wires and when you press it, it is the two wires touching together. Hope this makes sense. Usually the mod will get really hot and you would probably feel it before it starts venting or exploding but might not be the case.
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this is an old mspaint pic (lol) I did a while back. As you can see, when the battery is reversed, its shell which is negative can short to the mod tube which is positive. This is only if the insulating wrap is damaged enough to make a connection.
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