Sigelei 75w Temp Control
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So I just put my Subtank Plus 25mm on this tiny mod........and it doesn't look half bad. Of course I don't think I look half bad..............
.10 build @ 50watts @445F.
.10 build @ 50watts @445F.
Is it both of your doors or just the vented one? My vented door panel moves as well and I believe it's because the mold isn't perfect. Compared to the right side panel that sits flush my vented side sticks out a couple of mm's....didn't even notice till I took off the silicone.
Honestly I have no idea why you're having so many problems. When your first sig 75 broke was it in your pocket? When you leave your vape unattended you should just put it into lock mode or just turn it off. I have not experienced the wattage changing problem but that is so easily solved by bringing it back to the shop you bought it from and exchange for a new one or the IPV D2.
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Its the door with the logo on it that gives me problems. I too suspect a slight imperfection in the molding, but time and use should solve the problem. Im really dissapointed with the wattage kick down and that the mod only drains my batteries to 3.5v when other mods go lower. I know its less stress on the batteries but i still dont like it.
How did it pass 10sec cutoff and the High temp warning turn off. 20 sec in cutoff in temp mode And you saying it fire for 30mins huh....
obviously because it malfunctioned! the button was in fact not stuck. the thing just went haywire. I swear this is true. it is not like other people have not ha issues with this mod. the new one, I already exchanged today as you said. it appears to be fine thus far. I think perhaps at this price point in china qc might be an issue. I have no idea. I am not bashing it. it is what it is. I honestly wanted this mod to be spectacular. I love the design. perhaps some of the chips have defects I have no idea. the latest one is good thus far. only had it about 10 hours. I hope third time is a charm because i really do like this. I have no idea why it fired. it was really strange. my coil was not even hot it just became an open circuit. very strange and I do not at all have any idea what happened there. I absolutely did not make this up whether you choose to believe me or not. I do agree, from now on I will lock my mods. what happened is I fell asleep and woke up to the aroma. then I saw a full battery was nearly drained and the thing was firing by itself. I mean I do know something about electronics but what occurred there is anyone's guess. when things malfunction they can exhibit any kind of odd behavior. obviously why it passed the cutoff and temp limit. what is so strange is the coil was not even hot. however I do not know how long ago it had become an open circuit. luckily the vapor shark coil saved my .... big time.
my first one may have been questionable as others mentioned having purchased it for $55. now I see it for $50. the one from the b&m had a much less serious problem and the replacement seems to be alright thus far. I really hope so. the body of this thing is great imo. Interestingly none of mine suffered bent doors. clicked right on. so I am being honest. the frames have been great to me. I just had some bad luck. not really though as that coil saved me big time. the changing wattage was not like continuously scrolling. it was like I put it at 36 and ten minutes later it would be 36.2 untouched. that is not even a very big deal and is in fact explainable. the runaway firing has no reasonable explanation but I swear it really happened. it upsets me that you think I am a troll arch. that is not my style. I know you did not say that but it appears to be what you are insinuating.
my first one may have been questionable as others mentioned having purchased it for $55. now I see it for $50. the one from the b&m had a much less serious problem and the replacement seems to be alright thus far. I really hope so. the body of this thing is great imo. Interestingly none of mine suffered bent doors. clicked right on. so I am being honest. the frames have been great to me. I just had some bad luck. not really though as that coil saved me big time. the changing wattage was not like continuously scrolling. it was like I put it at 36 and ten minutes later it would be 36.2 untouched. that is not even a very big deal and is in fact explainable. the runaway firing has no reasonable explanation but I swear it really happened. it upsets me that you think I am a troll arch. that is not my style. I know you did not say that but it appears to be what you are insinuating.
With my tc build on my stm single coil @ .11 30w I had great batt life, and it dropped down to 3.2 before change batt kicked in. I tried a kanthal dual coil twisted 28 @ .46 35-40w on a dripper and got horrible batt life and cut off at 3.5 in power mode. Guess I shouldn't be surprised, It's firing two coils at higher watts. The cut off at 3.5 in power opposed to 3.2 in tc I though was strange.
So I decided to see if I could squeeze a bit more battery life out of the mod. At 45 watts, the battery was cutting off around 3.5 volts. I dropped the wattage setting to 35 watts and now the battery is cutting off at around 3.3 volts.
I have one on the way and shall report back, but I've noticed even with my Snow Wolf 200w that around 3.6v batt level seems to be where I naturally want to take them out replace with fresh.
There is a noticeable drop in temperature at the coils even in TC. It can be somewhat compensated for by dialing up the temp, but it's still not the same as fresh.
Could it be that the Sigelei's cutoff is a feature in disguise? Prizing strict quality (accuracy) over graceful degradation?
I'm quite curious, are those with regulated mods that can go lower in volts before cutting off, really getting the same quality vape?
In other words, are those mods really boosting well enough to maintain the set wattage (or temp) at the coil head on one 18650 at around 3.3?
Or, is it that the mods gracefully degrade (just deliver what they can) and that is the desire here.
I'm pretty new to this and don't have as many mods as most of you to compare.
If the answer is: "Yeah, the other mods do fizzle out when it drops that low, but I still like that I can vape." then I think I'm okay with the cutoff issue, cuz I'll be replacing them naturally before it gets to that point anyway.
There is a noticeable drop in temperature at the coils even in TC. It can be somewhat compensated for by dialing up the temp, but it's still not the same as fresh.
Could it be that the Sigelei's cutoff is a feature in disguise? Prizing strict quality (accuracy) over graceful degradation?
I'm quite curious, are those with regulated mods that can go lower in volts before cutting off, really getting the same quality vape?
In other words, are those mods really boosting well enough to maintain the set wattage (or temp) at the coil head on one 18650 at around 3.3?
Or, is it that the mods gracefully degrade (just deliver what they can) and that is the desire here.
I'm pretty new to this and don't have as many mods as most of you to compare.
If the answer is: "Yeah, the other mods do fizzle out when it drops that low, but I still like that I can vape." then I think I'm okay with the cutoff issue, cuz I'll be replacing them naturally before it gets to that point anyway.
I do notice that with my Snow Wolf and the SX Mini, when the battery drops fairly low, but still before the low battery warning comes on, the vape becomes noticeably weaker. That definitely gives me a heads up that I will need to replace the battery within the next 15 minutes to half an hour.
Thanks. Good to know. I wonder if with the Sigelei it was a deliberate decision, in firmware, to maintain accuracy.
I could be wrong, but it doesn't seem like there is a lot of room in a chipset or even subpar components to outweigh the raw physics of a powerful 30amp battery, and steal power where it shouldn't go.
I would think most of that power has to end up at the coil, one way, or another (over the course of its drain). Otherwise, the internals would be getting nearly as hot as the coils (it would have to go somewhere as heat).
So I don't think it's a battery efficiency issue.
It's got to be either an accuracy issue; too hot, compared to its setting, during the first series of vapes. Or, a deliberate "when to cut off" issue.
If that's at all correct, then a PBusardo graph of the wattage accuracy might tell the story (not the whole story across the battery states, but at least if the initial fully-charged state is putting out too much).
If the wattage is accurate, then it's probably just the "when to cut off" decision the firmware is set to.
Hopefully, it's just that. I'd rather have a consistent vape than have to set it low at the beginning and dial up every few vapes.
It would be great if PBusardo added a test that shows accuracy of wattage (and temp) over the course of battery state.
Update: I just noticed my SW200w shows 50% when the cells are at 3.76. Putting fresh in noticeably makes the vape stronger/warmer. Dual Ni200 0.06 build at 50 watts, 405F. And that's two cells in serial.
A 75W capable device with only one cell going down to around 3.5v seems pretty darn good to my noob sensibilities.
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Mine came in today. No ni200 in hand until tomorrow due to some poor planning on my part, so running it in power mode tonight. Feels very well made, battery doors make a nice connection and and the buttons have a nice firm click to them. Coming from my IPV Mini 2, the corners are a bit more pronounced, and I think the rounded back on the IPV is nicer in the hand. The sleeve helps with that, though does not eliminate it. Not terrible, or painful, but a nit to pick.
I have my Delta 2 on there now, and ti has the slightest gap between the base of the tank and the flat top of the mod. Less pronounced than the same tank on the IPV. I threw my Goliath on for a quick look and it seemed to also have a bit of a gap, where as it sits flush on the IPV. Also, not a deal breaker, and it seems to be an even space on the Sig, unlike the IPV. I would prefer the 510 be closer to the center on the Sig, as the tank hangs over the rounded portion of the top of the mod. Not much, just a mm or 2would make it sit better to my eye, but it's still a thing.
Overall, I like it at first blush. Definitely feels better constructed than my IPV over all. I picked up the Sig in silver, and it looks fantastic in my opinion, slight tank overhangs not withstanding. My IPV and I have had a good run together so far, and if it wasn't for wanting to try TC, I'd probably stay with it for a while longer. I seldom go above 40 watts, so the extra output of the Sig doesn't factor in. But TC is a thing, and it's a thing my IPV doesn't do, so new toy it is! I'll see how the battery life is in power mode, and try my hand at nickle coils this weekend to see how TC works for me before passing any serious judgement.
I have my Delta 2 on there now, and ti has the slightest gap between the base of the tank and the flat top of the mod. Less pronounced than the same tank on the IPV. I threw my Goliath on for a quick look and it seemed to also have a bit of a gap, where as it sits flush on the IPV. Also, not a deal breaker, and it seems to be an even space on the Sig, unlike the IPV. I would prefer the 510 be closer to the center on the Sig, as the tank hangs over the rounded portion of the top of the mod. Not much, just a mm or 2would make it sit better to my eye, but it's still a thing.
Overall, I like it at first blush. Definitely feels better constructed than my IPV over all. I picked up the Sig in silver, and it looks fantastic in my opinion, slight tank overhangs not withstanding. My IPV and I have had a good run together so far, and if it wasn't for wanting to try TC, I'd probably stay with it for a while longer. I seldom go above 40 watts, so the extra output of the Sig doesn't factor in. But TC is a thing, and it's a thing my IPV doesn't do, so new toy it is! I'll see how the battery life is in power mode, and try my hand at nickle coils this weekend to see how TC works for me before passing any serious judgement.
i love my sigelei 75 watt but this thing goes through batteries faster than any mod i own- regardless of the battery (i have sony vtc5, lg he2 and he4, and samsung) used it seems to just soak up the power very quickly. i am using both kanger and atlantis pre-made coils- makes no difference , i find myself changing batteries much faster than any other mod. luckily, i have lots of batteries and changing is quick and easy for me. just an observation- i have no way to test anything. still love the feel of the mod and i have no issues with the fire button or either door. so i will keep a lot of batteries handy and enjoy the vape but i thought i would throw this out and see if anyone else is having the same issue....
With mine if I go close to 50 watts it chews up batteries and won't fire when they're below 3.6.
i am setting mine at 420 degrees and 23 watts- still goes through batteries like crazy. is this normal? same settings on my other mods and none of them goes through batteries as fast as the sigelei......
My Sigelei 75 Watt Temperature Control box mod in black arrived today (came with the white/translucent/frosted version of the silicone sleeve). Initial unboxing impressions:
I thought I was prepared for how small it would be, but it exceeded my expectations when actually holding it in my hand. It's really compact, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
The box it came in was very nice and smaller than the SauceCode atomizer packaging I bought with it!
The design is great. Very minimal and clean.
The materials are cheap, however.
The side panels are a light, low quality brushed nickel (or something similar) with some sort of very thin clear laminate. I suspect it will wear off and create shiny areas that show wear; time will tell. They are not stainless steel, nor are they aluminum. It's a material trying to look like something it isn't. It is, however, a metal alloy and not plastic, so that's good.
The box frame appears to be painted aluminum (black version). I don't think it's anodized. Hopefully, it's a harder ceramic paint. Time will tell.
The internals are some sort of polymer, not sure if it's Delrin or heat-safe, but assume it's acceptable. It looks nice and clean, sturdy and unobjectionable inside.
The copper, spring loaded 510 connection was oxidized and needed a quick cleaning with a micro fiberglass scratch pen. Ditto for the copper battery contacts. It took 5 seconds and now all is well. I did this even before putting the first battery in.
The 510 top-ring and threading looks cheap. I have no idea what the alloy is. I'm getting the same resistance readings as on my Snow Wolf 200w, both in power and temp modes, so there appears to be no conductivity issues.
The fit of the side panels is okay. No rattle, but the logo-side door has a very slight fitting gap in one of its diagonal axes, that can only be noticed if pressing one of the two affected corners; the opposite corner will raise slightly (~0.5mm). Some may call this a "rattle," but it doesn't rattle in use, when holding with one hand, or even when shaking. It only moves if a corner is deliberately pressed while inspecting with two hands.
I was worried the quality of the Sigelei logo sticker-stamp would be cheap, plastic and bubble-like, but it's not! it's actually really nice. It's hardly raised at all and looks great. That said, it does feel like it could catch and peel up over time (on one side). The edge can be felt with a finger on one side. They should have carved out a tiny bit more for the stamp to sit more flush into. No biggie, it's actually a lot higher quality than I expected. And is smaller than I expected, too. Very tastefully done (unlike the massive, shameful "SNOW WOLF 200W" banner laser etching on my SW).
When it comes to branding, less is more. Other OEMs should take note.
Magnets on the doors are plenty strong for me. The vent pattern is minimal and very nice/futuristic looking.
The slight overhang on the side panels is very subtle. I suspect it's there to protect the finish of the frame both from atomizer screwing-unscrewing and from bottom wear-and-tear while sitting on a table. If so, a clever and sneaky way to circumvent the painted finish of the frame (if it's indeed painted; pretty sure it is).
The fitting of the side panel overhang, from the perspective of how they line up when sitting on a table is perfect and flush; nothing wobbly there.
Buttons are cheap chrome plated plastic, made to look metallic, but have no rattle and have a nice action/click.
I hate chrome veneer. If it's not real metal, just let it be plastic. "Truth in materials," and all that.
Screen is awesome. Huge, crisp and high contrast. The display is a nice, clean, minimal pure white (no blue colored display to clash with the rest of the color-free industrial design). Centering was good and nothing cut off. Fonts are pixel-perfect crisp and nice.
The slight mirror finish on the display is also nice. It's doesn't seem to inhibit the readability, but I have not tried outdoors yet, so will withhold full judgment.
The fact even 22mm atomizers overhang ever-so-slightly where the frame rounds does not bug me, as the whole finished package is slightly "overhang-y" anyway. It actually kinda seems to match the build aesthetic. And I like how the atomizer is visually left justified because of this. If it were moved more toward the center to avoid the small overhang/gap, then the atomizer would not visually look as flush with the edge. As a designer, this would bug me more than the small gap at the rounded corner. I know I'm in the minority on this detail.
Overall, for the money, I feel the design, build quality and fit-and-finish is pretty darn good. It feels pretty heavy in the hand and doesn't feel cheap, but it also doesn't feel super premium like the SW's 304 grade stainless and gorilla glass, nor an iPhone, not even as nice as a last generation iPod classic with its premium anodized aluminum, glass and stainless steel back. But it's a fraction of the price, so it's to be expected.
A premium version of this Sig might have a higher quality anodized frame, true stainless steel doors, real stainless CNC'd buttons and a beefier 510 connection.
Those are my initial build quality observations.
So far, it vapes like a dream both in power and temp mode!
I'm getting a nice, smooth, consistent and warm vape on a 0.06 dual Ni200 Goblin Mini build (air wide open) with a high VG liquid at 40W, 420F with a 90% charged IMR 40amp AWT battery.
In fact, I think I like the temp mode better than my Snow Wolf. It seems really smooth, steady and "finely granular" in how it ramps and delivers the vape. It seems less sporadic and spikey when controlling the temp. No peaks, valleys or noticeable dips (so far). Less rattle-snake, crackles and sputtering. Just smoother, somehow.
Nothing scientific yet, and it could just be beginner's luck with the settings I landed on. The Snow Wolf can deliver this experience, too, when dialed in perfectly with a perfect tank build.
Love that it doesn't time-out after 30 minutes like my SW, too (sorry for the apples to oranges comparisons, but it's the only other TC regulated mod I own right now).
More on the vape, menu and battery life after I've used it for a bit.
It's good value and I'm quite happy. So far, I would buy again if I lost it.
Okay, back to work for me. I'm all set for a nicotine-infused coding session today, for sure!
I thought I was prepared for how small it would be, but it exceeded my expectations when actually holding it in my hand. It's really compact, which is exactly what I was hoping for.
The box it came in was very nice and smaller than the SauceCode atomizer packaging I bought with it!
The design is great. Very minimal and clean.
The materials are cheap, however.
The side panels are a light, low quality brushed nickel (or something similar) with some sort of very thin clear laminate. I suspect it will wear off and create shiny areas that show wear; time will tell. They are not stainless steel, nor are they aluminum. It's a material trying to look like something it isn't. It is, however, a metal alloy and not plastic, so that's good.
The box frame appears to be painted aluminum (black version). I don't think it's anodized. Hopefully, it's a harder ceramic paint. Time will tell.
The internals are some sort of polymer, not sure if it's Delrin or heat-safe, but assume it's acceptable. It looks nice and clean, sturdy and unobjectionable inside.
The copper, spring loaded 510 connection was oxidized and needed a quick cleaning with a micro fiberglass scratch pen. Ditto for the copper battery contacts. It took 5 seconds and now all is well. I did this even before putting the first battery in.
The 510 top-ring and threading looks cheap. I have no idea what the alloy is. I'm getting the same resistance readings as on my Snow Wolf 200w, both in power and temp modes, so there appears to be no conductivity issues.
The fit of the side panels is okay. No rattle, but the logo-side door has a very slight fitting gap in one of its diagonal axes, that can only be noticed if pressing one of the two affected corners; the opposite corner will raise slightly (~0.5mm). Some may call this a "rattle," but it doesn't rattle in use, when holding with one hand, or even when shaking. It only moves if a corner is deliberately pressed while inspecting with two hands.
I was worried the quality of the Sigelei logo sticker-stamp would be cheap, plastic and bubble-like, but it's not! it's actually really nice. It's hardly raised at all and looks great. That said, it does feel like it could catch and peel up over time (on one side). The edge can be felt with a finger on one side. They should have carved out a tiny bit more for the stamp to sit more flush into. No biggie, it's actually a lot higher quality than I expected. And is smaller than I expected, too. Very tastefully done (unlike the massive, shameful "SNOW WOLF 200W" banner laser etching on my SW).
When it comes to branding, less is more. Other OEMs should take note.
Magnets on the doors are plenty strong for me. The vent pattern is minimal and very nice/futuristic looking.
The slight overhang on the side panels is very subtle. I suspect it's there to protect the finish of the frame both from atomizer screwing-unscrewing and from bottom wear-and-tear while sitting on a table. If so, a clever and sneaky way to circumvent the painted finish of the frame (if it's indeed painted; pretty sure it is).
The fitting of the side panel overhang, from the perspective of how they line up when sitting on a table is perfect and flush; nothing wobbly there.
Buttons are cheap chrome plated plastic, made to look metallic, but have no rattle and have a nice action/click.
I hate chrome veneer. If it's not real metal, just let it be plastic. "Truth in materials," and all that.
Screen is awesome. Huge, crisp and high contrast. The display is a nice, clean, minimal pure white (no blue colored display to clash with the rest of the color-free industrial design). Centering was good and nothing cut off. Fonts are pixel-perfect crisp and nice.
The slight mirror finish on the display is also nice. It's doesn't seem to inhibit the readability, but I have not tried outdoors yet, so will withhold full judgment.
The fact even 22mm atomizers overhang ever-so-slightly where the frame rounds does not bug me, as the whole finished package is slightly "overhang-y" anyway. It actually kinda seems to match the build aesthetic. And I like how the atomizer is visually left justified because of this. If it were moved more toward the center to avoid the small overhang/gap, then the atomizer would not visually look as flush with the edge. As a designer, this would bug me more than the small gap at the rounded corner. I know I'm in the minority on this detail.
Overall, for the money, I feel the design, build quality and fit-and-finish is pretty darn good. It feels pretty heavy in the hand and doesn't feel cheap, but it also doesn't feel super premium like the SW's 304 grade stainless and gorilla glass, nor an iPhone, not even as nice as a last generation iPod classic with its premium anodized aluminum, glass and stainless steel back. But it's a fraction of the price, so it's to be expected.
A premium version of this Sig might have a higher quality anodized frame, true stainless steel doors, real stainless CNC'd buttons and a beefier 510 connection.
Those are my initial build quality observations.
So far, it vapes like a dream both in power and temp mode!
I'm getting a nice, smooth, consistent and warm vape on a 0.06 dual Ni200 Goblin Mini build (air wide open) with a high VG liquid at 40W, 420F with a 90% charged IMR 40amp AWT battery.
In fact, I think I like the temp mode better than my Snow Wolf. It seems really smooth, steady and "finely granular" in how it ramps and delivers the vape. It seems less sporadic and spikey when controlling the temp. No peaks, valleys or noticeable dips (so far). Less rattle-snake, crackles and sputtering. Just smoother, somehow.
Nothing scientific yet, and it could just be beginner's luck with the settings I landed on. The Snow Wolf can deliver this experience, too, when dialed in perfectly with a perfect tank build.
Love that it doesn't time-out after 30 minutes like my SW, too (sorry for the apples to oranges comparisons, but it's the only other TC regulated mod I own right now).
More on the vape, menu and battery life after I've used it for a bit.
It's good value and I'm quite happy. So far, I would buy again if I lost it.
Okay, back to work for me.
I'm all set for a nicotine-infused coding session today, for sure!
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When I was using it at 45 watts, the mod would stop firing if the battery dropped near 3.5 volts. I've since lowered the wattage to 35 watts and now it is a bit better....it works down to 3.35 volts.
I bought the Sigelei 75 watt and two Sony VTC4 batteries from a reputable battery company and the mod burns through batteries like crazy. I have never seen anything like it BUT this is my first mod with replaceable batteries so I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Is anyone else experiencing it? Is this normal?
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