Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

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tA71ana

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Don't worry about using the larger sized batteries. Here is the guideline I use for sizes larger than 18350.

1. Remove the battery cap.
2. Remove the battery.
3. Insert the new battery.
4. Adjust the battery tube so that 1/8" of the battery is sticking out past the threaded end of the tube.
5. Screw on the battery cap.

Thanks Yzer! :thumbs::toast:
That is a great rule of thumb to use!
 

Odysseus

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OMG, ok...I had it set to VV...now that I've switched it to VW, I'm liking it much much better!

So, you like VW better? The only people that will disagree are the Provari boys. (I'm not talking about the Italian kids that live down the block.) Some or them prefer to do the math every time they switch attys. Others just like the trial and error tweaking when they switch, even others simply deny its usefulness simply because they are using a Provari.
 

stillnotsmoking

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I ordered mine from varitube also because of the 90 day warranty, I'll gladly pay a little more for a better warranty given the track record with Chinese mods, YMMV. I believe I got the partial kit with chargers batteries and a case for $75 shipped using coupon code "varitube10" I'm happy with that price, could be had a little cheaper if you got the mod only but I needed the batteries.
 

Tanks

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One thing I did notice and am wondering if all of these are like this ....
On my Vamo and Varimax the lo batt reading is at 3.4-3.5v.
The SigZ Tele goes all the way down to 3.2v.
Is anyone else's going down to 3.2v before it reads low?

My Sigelei and my Provari both cut off at 3.2v (may be why they recommend using AW IMR protected batteries in both)
 

Indyiam

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My Zmax V3 issues:
1.) Within first couple days i started getting Low laod errors with iClear30s and other clearos. Usually replacing clearos and heads would work but i had to replace heads quite often than i liked. Maybe 12 W for dual coil 2.0 is too much? Anything lower doesn't do it for me. Prolly not a Zmax issue but same brand clearos on vamo seem to last longer...could be just luck when using Vamo. COntinued to keep going since i still loved it.

2.) Fire button lost it consistency after couple weeks -From Day 1 i have been pressing it in firmly like it should be and no issues until couple weeks later where it would just go into the Menu automatically while vaping. Initially i thought maybe i was losing hold on the button but No. I usually take 6-8 sec long drags w/o letting the button go and it goes into Menu anymore w/o me letting it go. Prolly was the warning to have it exchanged and it didn't bother me much as i would normally release pressure after 5 secs or so for fraction of sec and continue vaping if needed.

3.) Short - Now all i see is Short with or w/o clearo/cartos (tried 510 and ego both) everytime i press fire button. It doesn't show 9.9 ohms anymore when nothing attached..just shows SHORT no matter what. Changed batteries and left it off for a while too and nothing helps. Guess soemthing inside the Mod got shorted randomly.

So i guess my Zmax journey is over unless i get a replacement Or some genious here can help fix it?

Hope it continues to work great for you guys.
 
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aussiedog61

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Before you give up try a couple of things first.

1) Clean all contacts and use Noalox or Vaseline on the threads.
2) Stretch the spring.

There may be other suggestions, but at least try those first.

Also, I am not too familiar with dual coils, but 12 watts seems pretty high to me for any set up. YMMV
 
So, you like VW better? The only people that will disagree are the Provari boys. (I'm not talking about the Italian kids that live down the block.) Some or them prefer to do the math every time they switch attys. Others just like the trial and error tweaking when they switch, even others simply deny its usefulness simply because they are using a Provari.

Yes, absolutely like VW better! I just set the watts and get a consistent vape. I find myself tweaking it once in awhile--sometimes I like a hotter vape--but mostly I just set it and forget it. I've never really understood the whole ohms, volts, watts thing, and I'm sorta "math dyslexic" (numbers and symbols confuse the hell out of me), so doing mathematical calculations to vape is not my thing lol.
 

GRH8095

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My Zmax V3 issues:
1.) Within first couple days i started getting Low laod errors with iClear30s and other clearos. Usually replacing clearos and heads would work but i had to replace heads quite often than i liked. Maybe 12 W for dual coil 2.0 is too much? Anything lower doesn't do it for me. Prolly not a Zmax issue but same brand clearos on vamo seem to last longer...could be just luck when using Vamo. COntinued to keep going since i still loved it.

2.) Fire button lost it consistency after couple weeks -From Day 1 i have been pressing it in firmly like it should be and no issues until couple weeks later where it would just go into the Menu automatically while vaping. Initially i thought maybe i was losing hold on the button but No. I usually take 6-8 sec long drags w/o letting the button go and it goes into Menu anymore w/o me letting it go. Prolly was the warning to have it exchanged and it didn't bother me much as i would normally release pressure after 5 secs or so for fraction of sec and continue vaping if needed.

3.) Short - Now all i see is Short with or w/o clearo/cartos (tried 510 and ego both) everytime i press fire button. It doesn't show 9.9 ohms anymore when nothing attached..just shows SHORT no matter what. Changed batteries and left it off for a while too and nothing helps. Guess soemthing inside the Mod got shorted randomly.

So i guess my Zmax journey is over unless i get a replacement Or some genious here can help fix it?

Hope it continues to work great for you guys.

***

No idea if this suggestion will fix all the problems with your zmax, but it can't hurt things ...

Alcohol bath ... checkout Page 21 Post 206
 

Indyiam

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May 24, 2013
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***

No idea if this suggestion will fix all the problems with your zmax, but it can't hurt things ...

Alcohol bath ... checkout Page 21 Post 206

Thanks for the suggestions. I cleaned the contacts and everything else. Also alchohol bath didn't do anything. Has anyone tried to unscrew the top head? Seems quite tight.
 

yzer

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Check post #169 in this thread. ram007 posted some photos showing that the top section is press fitted, not threaded. The challenge is to loosen this up without damaging the finish. Twisting this part may break the wire connection. If that wire connection has broken loose somehow and flopping around inside it could be causing the short. You may be able to loosen it a little by applying pressure with your thumbs to the sides to get a little wiggle. You may have to protect the top section by wrapping with leather or some other material and using a clamp or wrench for removal.

Is the inside of the drip well dry?
 

CheriePie

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However, after reading the above post, it certainly would sway me even more to purchase at varitube instead, spend a bit more outright and get a 90 day warranty with them for it. From what I have read in a review for this product on their site, it seems like the folks at varitube may be checking these units out for functionality and lubing up the threading before shipping them out. That kind of service and a 90 day warranty may very possibly get my business.

Yeah, I mentioned that in this thread as well. I purchased mine from Varitube and was happy to see the note on my enclosed invoice that they test fired it and applied Noalox to the threads as well before sending it out. I'm not sure if it's still current, but I used the coupon code varitube10 for an additional 10% off the sale price for the kit. And Perry at Varitube was super responsive with a couple questions I threw his way afterwards too. Great customer service!


One thing I hadn't checked on mine was how it works with my evods. Well, mine isn't loose like yours and I can attach an evod and fire it - so, I assume it's working as intended. However, I don't really like how deep it sits in the recess. The evod's base is entirely covered by the outer body of the zMax. I can foresee getting a base stuck down in the well if you are not careful with how much you tighten it down when putting it on. Also, I think it would be best to unscrew the evod off the unit with everything upside down to avoid spilling juice everywhere in the event that the base sticks to the Ego threads. Fortunately for me, I have very little cause to use it with anything Ego threaded. But, I can see that this could be a considerable downside for those who do intend to use the Ego threading.

Yup, been there, done that! LOL :laugh: Twice now I've attempted to unscrew an EVOD only to discover that the base was still screwed in, and I was only screwing off the top part. Whoops! Juice everywhere. And yet, I did it a second time too (same EVOD too, even though I have 3 of them). I won't let there be a 3rd time! Definitely going to be screwing those EVODs back off upside down from now on... just hope I remember to do so!
 

HOPS

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Yup, been there, done that! LOL :laugh: Twice now I've attempted to unscrew an EVOD only to discover that the base was still screwed in, and I was only screwing off the top part. Whoops! Juice everywhere. And yet, I did it a second time too (same EVOD too, even though I have 3 of them). I won't let there be a 3rd time! Definitely going to be screwing those EVODs back off upside down from now on... just hope I remember to do so!
Since over tightening a device onto a mod is something one shouldn't do (and I'm sure most people don't), and considering many devices these days have the drip-wells, it would be nice to see someone make a tank with a reverse-threaded base.?
 

nz1001

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i've had these about 2 months. all 3 been working flawlessly. pic w/ 18350, 490, and 650
IMG_7794 (494x1024).jpg

recently i am digging 18490/500 mode, good battery time and only 8mm longer than 18350 mode. :2cool:

another 18490/500 mode with k100 sleeve, 2mm longer than the rubber ring setup.
IMG_7798 (433x800).jpg
 
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