Smok XPro M80 Plus - new version, v6 firmware: temperature control testing results

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DatguyRay

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Will you send yours back to your vendor for a replacement? Have you contacted them?

I did already, but after hearing (So much) and giving the device a try. I'll think I'll pass on this one.
I'll pay a bit more and get the Sigelei (150)Watts as replacement for the smok M80.

I might give smok M80 a try again when all the failure rate may have declined with the upcoming version v6 boards.
It was my first and only device, just getting into vaping and stuff. Would I already own some other devices I think I would have had just got a replacement for the Smok M80 and gave it another try.
 

TheBloke

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I did already, but after hearing (So much) and giving the device a try. I'll think I'll pass on this one.
I'll pay a bit more and get the Sigelei (150)Watts as replacement for the Smok M80.

I might give Smok M80 a try again when all the failure rate may have declined with the upcoming version v6 boards.
It was my first and only device, just getting into vaping and stuff. Woulld I already own some other devices I think I would have had just got a replacement for the Smok M80 and give it another try.

Yeah I wouldn't want a Smok M80 as my only device!

So you regularly use very high watts? If not, the iStick 50W is an excellent device. It is the device I would recommend to people for their first/only mod. Personally I almost never go above 50W - I got the M80 so that I had the chance to try up to 80W, but in practice I never do it. The other day I did 60W for a bit on a 0.33 ohm dual coil, but not for long, it was too hot for me and I preferred 50W.

But if you are regularly using those high watts, then yes a Sigelei is good. Or if you could wait a bit, the new IPV4 will do up to 100W and it includes (real!) temperature control, which is a very nice thing to have. But it is not out yet, it has been delayed several times already. Maybe by early May.
 

DatguyRay

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Mar 11, 2015
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Thanks TheBloke,
that's the same question I asked myself. A hard one not sure what to get an IStick 50w or the Sigelei 150w.

No I don't vape that high, the most I did on the Smok M80 was 17-25watts with the pre built Lemo and the pre built Delta 2 coils.

The IPV4 has been delayed unfortunately (tho it's max voltage is somehwere 7.5, I thought that might be to little for such a device, sigelei 150 does 8.4v and max. 30/40amps draw in series mode, I think) and the YiHi SX350 mini is out of stock everywhere I looked.

Smok M80 was my first device, came from the old e-go ecig era. So i thought I need to jump also on these sub ohm train hype :) and I really liked it. On the first day vaping on the smoke M80 I lost the urgency and need to vape because it's so much more powerful than an ego device with only 7watt.

said 17-21 watts was more than enough I think,. I can't say for sure because the Smok M80 wasn't reliable because the ohms were jumping 0,5prebuilt up to 2,6Ohm and fluctuating heavy. that gave me instant dry hits therefore I haven't tried more than 25watts on this device.

I currently only have this two aromizers/cartomizers the Eleaf Lemo and Delta 2. Would that be an overkill for a Sigelei 150watt?
I'm not sure but i think i can say that I don't need more than 80-90watts. Haven't tried it tho.

What's important to me is a solid and reliable device with a long battery life expectancy.
 

TheBloke

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You normally fire at max 21 watts.. yes 150W is overkill :D

Seriously, the iStick 50W is an awesome mod. Great battery life (4400mah internal fixed), beautifully smooth 510 connection (all tanks screw down dead easy, some so easily that I can just spin it with my finger until tight - compare that to the M80 where you have to crunch it down hard), it is easy to use, it does 50W which is more than enough for your tanks (you can only get single coil in the Lemo so you are unlikely to be doing super sub ohm like 0.2)

The only advantage that a mod like the Siegeli has is that it has removable batteries. This also makes it more expensive, but it does mean you can buy four batteries and a dual-battery charger, and then when you are out of charge, you can just swap batteries and carry on vaping immediately without waiting for it to charge (or without vaping while plugged in.)

But that costs you more money - the extra price of the mod + the cost of four batteries + the cost of a charger. For all that extra money, you could buy two iStick 50Ws, and then you can use device 2 while device 1 charges :)

I understand the interest in high watts, I had the same which is why I bought the M80 as my second mod. But so far I have not used that power. 35W is where I tend to vape these days.

I would say that your choice should be between the iStick 50W, or a temperature control device like the IPV4 (remembering that it is not out yet and so is unproven, we don't know if it is as good as hoped). Or there is the new Heatvape Invader Mini, which is a DNA40-style temperature control mod at 50W, which is also water resistant and shock proof. Those are some nice features, but it also looks very ugly, and has no sprung pin in the 510 (because of water resistance.) Or then there is the new Kangxin Mini VF, same 50W TC chip as the Heatvape, and it includes a flashlight/torch. But it is not out yet and might at first only be available from China - also, its build quality is unknown.

In my view, the only "no brainer" is the iStick 50W. I can guarantee it will do the vaping you are currently doing, and do it very well. Also, the iStick 50W is nice and cheap - cheaper than the M80 even. You could have the iStick 50W + another atty to go with it. (Or buy two! There is a lot of advantage in having two mods : use one while the other charges; use one while you do a build on the other; keep one in the car, one in your pocket; etc etc.)

Get the basics right first is my opinion - find a mod that does what you know you already need, and does it perfectly.

Then you can think about fancier things, and higher wattages, for your second mod.
 

DatguyRay

Senior Member
Mar 11, 2015
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Thanks TheBloke appreciate your time and effort.

In my view, the only "no brainer" is the iStick 50W
the Sigelei 150watts, I guess :)

Get the basics right first is my opinion - find a mod that does what you know you already need, and does it perfectly.
that perfectly answered. yeah thats usually.the case. But can sometimes be hard when your new to these kind of things.

I see, the IStick should suit my needs, if theres no more difference than the removable batterys, than it might be even wiser to get 2 ISticks 50watts for the price of one like you said. Haven't thought about that possibility.
 

TheBloke

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Thanks TheBloke appreciate your time and effort.
Pleasure!

the Sigelei 150watts, I guess :)

No, the iStick - sorry, "no brainer" probably does not translate :) It means "I do not need to use my brain to make this decision - because it is so obviously the right choice"

i.e. the iStick 50W is the only mod that I can easily see is ideal, all the others have question marks (too expensive; paying for stuff you don't need; not out yet; not as easy to use; etc.)

that perfectly answered. yeah thats usually.the case. But can sometimes be hard when your new to these kind of things.

Absolutely, I was in the same position just a couple of months ago. I got lucky and chose the iStick 50W because it was getting good reviews at the time, I did not at that time appreciate all the many ways that it was ideal; I had no idea about stuff like good 510 connection, or that it is particularly small and convenient.

Actually I came close to buying the M80 back then - but then I saw DJLbs first videos where two of them died on him. I still thought about it hard, because I thought maybe he just had bad ones. But then it was out of stock everywhere so my decision became easy for the iStick, which was lucky for me.

I also considered briefly the Innokin MVP 3.0, but in the end I decided it was better to get 50W than 30W because I did not yet know if I might want to go over 30W. Again that worked out, because I now often vape at 35W. Though for my first 4-6 weeks it was usually never higher than 30W, it has only been since I use RTAs all the time that I sometimes go above 30W. Still, the decision paid off, because when I did get there, I had the iStick capable of doing it.

I see, the IStick should suit my needs, if theres no more difference than the removable batterys, than it might be even wiser to get 2 ISticks 50watts for the price of one like you said. Haven't thought about that possibility.


Yeah, two mods really are better than one. In fact that is 90% of the reason I got the M80 - because after one month I could see that a second mod would be really useful. I decided to get the M80 because if I got a second mod, I wanted to try something different to the first, and also because I thought maybe I would go above 50W.

In fact, I now rather wish I had just got a second iStick 50W, because the only thing the M80 has really done for me is helped me appreciate how great the iStick is! :) Well, I suppose it was useful to me to try >50W just so I know that I don't need it at this time. But really now all I do is use the M80 exactly the same as the iStick, except it is bigger, uglier, has a much harder 510, and has questions as to whether it will work for a long time.

Note that I am certainly not saying that the iStick will be the best mod forever. Just I think it is the best mod to get as your first mod (well, first mod for second time!) when you will have only one. If you get the vaping 'bug' in a big way then you will want to try other things and by then there will be 10 new great mods to try, probably all with Temp Control. But you will always still have your simple-but-effective iStick to keep using as you try other things as well.

In my view, after you get your new mod, the most important thing to try next is new attys - get some new tanks, try an RDA or too. Ultimately the mod is just a big power supply, most of the difference in vape quality comes from the atty and there are hundreds to try! (Of course Temp Control is one exception to this rule)

I highly recommend the Aqua v2 - it is my favourite RTA by far, and I now have four of them. But it is also an RDA, it has separate pieces for RTA and RDA mode. So if you don't yet have an RDA, you get to try that as well with one new device. And it has two types of tank in RTA mode, stainless and PMMA/plastic.

The original is very expensive, but you can buy a clone for as little as $20 - in the UK I pay £20 each, about $30, but they are cheaper in the States or if you order from China. Get the Tobeco or Infinite clone if you do try it.
 

DatguyRay

Senior Member
Mar 11, 2015
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What a nice guy you are, I can finally order one IStick 50 Watts with a good feeling that this time around it would/could be the perfect device for me.
A no-brainer is what I need, than its all fine, thats what I was searching after in the first place. But got too excited about [more] more watts etc for the same price.
But as they say sometimes less is more.

I still thought about it hard, because I thought maybe he just had bad ones. But then it was out of stock everywhere so my decision became easy for the iStick, which was lucky for me.

I had to laugh, i did the same watched DJLsb reviews but for some reasons I really wanted to give it a try. Basically the shop were I ordered one had only one Smok M80 left in stock, I said to myself if it won't sell after 2-3 hours I'll buy it and thought really hard in the meantime what to get as my first device.
Unfortunately the first batch had high failure rates. Even tho I knew the IStick was the better device I just somehow wanted to try the Smoke M80 myself but that didn't last long.

I will also be on the lookout for the Aqua v2. thanks for the tip.
 

dr g

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Just got a M80 with an order from smok for S&Gs and here's my initial take on it. It's a v0006 unit.

EDIT: This implementation appears to not be reading live resistance and therefore is not doing real temperature control. Coil material does affect performance, naturally, because of the ramping resistance of nickel.

Seems to work fine as an 80w non-tc mod, and has a hot mech dyno feature.

I guess this confirms most of what is already known. It is indeed kind of embarrassing that Smok released this as TC. Though they could have legitimately called it a joules mode ;)
 
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eLefAdEr

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Mine may have just kicked the bucket. The board, at least.

I was using it to set up a dual coil in my Big Buddha Evil Eye and adjusting position when an outside negative post screw got too close to the inside positive post screw and caused a hard short. It still reads resistance of attached attys for about 0.5 seconds, and accurately, but it won't fire. Display shows "check atomizer."

And for the past week, I couldn't get it to go above 3.7 volts, no matter the mode (mech and wattage). If I dialed up the wattage too high, it would just kick it down to around 3.0 volts. Condensation or leaked juice might be the cause there. I won't really know until I decide to crack it open.

I'm open to suggestions, and I've already tried the usual (power up, power down, reset).

Don't know if it matters but mine is still on the 0004 firmware.
 

TheBloke

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How are the v6 revisions holding up thus far? I wouldn't go near an older one, but am curious if the v6 is any better. Not interested in the psuedo TC, but rather a compact-ish box mod with good battery life.

It seems to be variable. Overall, I am not disappointed with mine. It's purpose for me has been "to be another mod", not for any unique benefit the M80 has, and it's done that OK. I could recommend it if I didn't know that other people are reporting it dying on them.

I have been using mine mostly daily for the month-ish that I've had it. It's never the mod I'd choose to use, but I regularly use it because I like to have three or four different flavour tanks on the go, and be able to just pick up a tank and vape on it without having to switch out what's on a given device.

So in that capacity, it works just fine. I almost never go above even 40W, and never above 50, so I didn't end up needing an 80W device like I thought I might. The battery life is OK and exactly as you'd expect from 2 x 2200mah 18650s in parallel - because that's literally what it is. Unlike most other fixed battery mods, they are literally 18650s fixed in place, rather than a single internal battery like a mod such as the iStick uses.

It has 2A charging, so that's a big boon if you have a 2A charger, but I don't (I have multiple 1As, and a 2.5A which I can't use with any mod.) That said, you might not want to test that too hard, for the reason I'll come to in a second..

So batteries are good and bad: good: no extra cost of batteries; bad, as that also means you can't use higher capacity. Good: no need to charge externally if you have a 2A charger; but bad, slower charging if you don't. Bad: no option to have multiple sets of batteries and swap out immediately for freshly charged. Bad: eventually they'll lose capacity/die and then technically the mod is dead (no doubt it's not hard to go inside and put in new ones, though I don't know if it requires soldering to your batteries or not.)

So overall it's all OK, except when, for some people, it's terrible: it seems I'm lucky (so far), as there are now a number of reports of dead M80s. Several in this thread in fact. The YT reviewer DJ Lsb has had four devices die. Admittedly the first two were v4/v5s, and also he heavily stress tests them, so that doesn't represent normal usage. But people in this thread are using them normally, and they've still stopped working.

On that basis it's a little hard to recommend. If I hadn't heard those reports, I would recommend it as a basic, cheap device (doubly so as no batteries required - as long as you're cool with that) with a high max wattage and good resistance range. With those reports, well - caveat emptor I guess! :)

While I'm here, things I don't like:
  • No settings-only lock, only a "whole device" lock which I hate - as you'll know if you reached that part of my IPV4 review! :) - because it's no different to turning it off so why bother?
  • The up/down scroll speed is annoying; too fast or too slow. Though not as bad as the IPV4 as there's no delay on it.
  • Charger port is on the bottom, meaning you can't stand it up to charge - annoying both if you want to charge-and-vape (unlikely given you have multiple mods), and because it's a pain if you have a tank on it that leaks on its side (eg most Lemo builds)
  • Looks crap
  • Fire button jiggles a bit
  • It could be easier than some/many mods at taking in liquid, as there's clear seams top and bottom. Unlike my iStick and IPV4 where the top has no seams.
All fairly minor as you can see - while actually vaping, it'sfine.
 
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RaptorD.Meezus

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I'm still not having any problems with mine. *knocks on wood* I have, however, had a problem with the Arctic I've been using on it lately. It seems that they device isn't reading it purposely for some reason; the resistance on it jumps around, forcing it to go to reduced power, or making it say "check atomizer". It's only this tank though. All my others, tanks and RDAs, work just fine.
 

RaptorD.Meezus

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How on earth did you manage that? Were you using the FW updater tool? Or you're saying it randomly downgraded on its own?

Anyway, the Smok website has the latest FW, v006-1 available for download. Download that and apply it in the usual way. In the meantime, your up button has likely stopped working?
No idea how it happened. I plugged it in to charge it and it randomly reset itself, displaying v00005. I got it at v00006, so I'm kind of confused. I just went through the upgrade process, but when it finished it didn't show v00006-1 like it should. I think that, because it was reset to v5, it won't let me upgrade to v6-1, since I don't have v6 on it.

Edit: Just hit the reset button to check it and it is, in fact, on v6-1. Coolio.
 

MagicJosh

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I just bought this Smok m80 plus and have been more then happy with it. The Goliath works perfect with it. I noticed the temp control DOES work perfect on the new hardware and upgraded software on the mother board. I use Kanthal because i can't stand nickel wire A hate it. But when I use the temp control I notice I never get a burnt hit.The wattage fluxuates, Even with Kanthal wire. Thats all I want from Temp control. People that dis and put this device down and say all that harsh .... about it need to look at this thing again. (If you seen some of the videos on youtube).
FYI: The perfect fit for this device is the Goliath. WOW!!! :firefox:
 
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