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avid vapor has them at 1.5, 2.0, and 2.5... but they are very over-priced $2.49 each. Someone said nhaler has them at 2.0 ohm. 2.0 ohm should be fine, its only the super LR that pull so many amps and kick the cirucuit protection. 2.0 ohm you should be able to take up to almost 5 volts. 2.5 would hit 6 easy with no problems.
Higher ohm DCs don't make much sense to me. I suppose it's good that people with amp limited devices will be able to fire them, but they will never achieve the watts of vaping power that make these things so good.
At 6.0v, a 1.5 ohm DC is producing 24 watts of vaping power and pulling 4 amps
At 6.0v, a 2.5 ohm DC is producing 14.4 watts of vaping power and pulling 2.4 amps
To put it in perspective for those who can do 5.0v: At 5.0v a 1.5 ohm is generating 16 watts of vaping power and pulling 3.33 amps, so a 5.0v set up with a 1.5 ohm DC is producing a watt and a half more vaping power than a 2.5 ohm at 6.0v
At 6.0v, a 1.5 ohm DC is producing 24 watts of vaping power and pulling 4 amps
At 6.0v, a 2.5 ohm DC is producing 14.4 watts of vaping power and pulling 2.4 amps
To put it in perspective for those who can do 5.0v: At 5.0v a 1.5 ohm is generating 16 watts of vaping power and pulling 3.33 amps, so a 5.0v set up with a 1.5 ohm DC is producing a watt and a half more vaping power than a 2.5 ohm at 6.0v
six, All this is true for a single coil atty......
These are a different beast.
You have two high resistance coils running in parallel, and the two combined bring down the 'total resistance' so all the math is going to be quite different when it comes to figuring out the actual heat produced by each coil. Ya got two 3.something coils pulling amps off the same battery.
So far it seems to me that these are fairly cool hitting cartos...the difference is they are vertical mounted, have two coils...so more surface area to juice = more vape. Since your draw comes right up through the coils it comes off as being nice and warm as well. Folks are having a hard time 'burning them up' because the whole system just runs cooler than a single coil. Kinda like putting one 80 watt bulb in a lamp designed for two 40w bulbs can cook the guts out of it. Put two 40w bulbs in that same lamp and it doesn't get cooked. One 80w bulb is hotter, more efficient, while two 40w bulbs disperse heat differently and run at much cooler temps.
In theory, running the stuff at higher voltages makes it more efficient, and much less dangerous to your battery/switches/other electronics.
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Yep, people got all hung up on watts as if that was the determining factor in your vaping experience, doesn't apply universally. 12 watts on a 2.5 ohm is not the same experience as 12 watts on a 1.5 ohm. Also 12 watts on a 306 is not the same as on a 510, 12 watts on a failomizer=burnt rubber taste in your mouth, ect.. ect... Watts is only one other factor to consider when trying to nail down that perfect vaping experience.
Just turn the volts up or down till you find that happy spot that blows your mind, thats what counts. Only time the ohms counts is when you are on a fixed volt mod or circuit protection is kicking in on a VV.
Just turn the volts up or down till you find that happy spot that blows your mind, thats what counts. Only time the ohms counts is when you are on a fixed volt mod or circuit protection is kicking in on a VV.
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12 watts on a CE2 would give me 2nd degree burns and blisters! If it were a clearo it'd probably melt it too.
I generally run these at half that I do anything else...the coils are right at your lips. It's literally scorching your tongue and cooking off taste-buds at 12w (tank might be different if you've got a tube of some sort extending the thing). CE2 is much better at lower temps...great flavor...less TH tho'...unless you find a way to get more air into the draw. Poly-fill cartos have a different TH because they pull in and warm extra air that the CE2 does not.
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Okay, now I'm worried, did I order the right ones? I don't know much about ohms and mahs and volts. I have 2 750mah Riva's and one 1100mah Riva. I ordered these from Madvapes '10476 Dual Coil 510 Mega Cartomizer, 5 Pack'. Will these work for me?
I think they'll most likely work. You got the 1.5 ohm ones right? If they didn't say, they probably are.
Anyone have the direct link to the 2.5 ohm dual coils on madvapes? All im seeing is the megas, and the megas are not dual coils unless stated. Smoketech makes a regular single coil large capacity carto that madvapes is callin the "mega".
Ohms law is the same no matter the number of resistors (though it's harder to figure out individual resistance if the resistors are different and you don't already know the values, but that does not apply to this situation). Ohms law is Ohms law.
If the supply of power is the constant, increase resistance, decrease thermal energy. If the resistance is the constant, decrease power and decrease thermal energy. If the thermal energy is the constant - so is everything else.
So, what I'm saying is this: if you have an amp limited device, you will never achieve the same performance with the DCs just by using one that has higher resistance, because: to get to the same thermal energy output, you'll have to increase the voltage to the point you're pulling the same number of amps it took to limit you out before. You can't make more thermal energy while staying inside the amp limit by increasing resistance. Increase the resistance, and you have to feed more power to achieve the same thermal energy. Feeding more power means pushing more amps. More amps means you're back in the same boat. Anyone with an amp limited device will never be able to experience what the DCs are actually capable of. Ohms law is Ohms law. It is what it is.
I don't expect other people to vape exactly the way I like to vape. I'm sure plenty of people are perfectly content with the DCs even as low as 3.2v. - However, I have to seriously doubt anyone who is running a nice VV mod is doing so only to be able to vape at or below 3.7v (as an example only - I know stownz got to 4.5 with his provari, but others in this thread only got to 3.6 with thiers) and I have to think that those who are running a regulated 5.0v mod could be at all happy to have to decrease thermal energy to operate the DCs (some 5.0v regulated are amp limited and won't even fire the 1.5s). I'm thinking VV and 5.0v regulated users were all looking for warmer vapor, tuned flavors, and tuned TH or else why did they buy a VV or 5.0v? - Increasing the ohms only serves to be able to operate the DC with such devices. It does nothing to aid performance except to make them go from not working or barely workable to operational but not at full performance.
I think we're mostly agreed that there is a balancing act.
Ohms law is ohms law...for 'each coil'.
Each coil is at least 3 ohms....
So in short...these are kind of like sucking on two standard KR808D-1 cartos at once
Stack two vertical coil KRs end on end...and there ya go.I got the 2ohm ones on a Darwin and they do fine at 5v.
Mind you it says 12.5 watts which I doubt is truly accurate in terms of heat intensity given off from the coils. Probaly more like something between 4 and 6 watts 'per coil'. 12w is hot enough to solder with
So, yeah, maybe close to 12w total draw from the battery, but neither coil is letting off 12w worth of heat by itself.I suppose it is possible they could put in a circuit that pulses the full wattage to each coil in short quick bursts (alternating between coils at full power). If these don't do that, a future version probably will
If one pulsed like this...You'd be able to crank it up full on a Vari or Darwin.Opinion: Some flavors are great on these...others...not so good to me.
I can see why some folks are liking these alot. Tons of vapor......easy to fill.....decent life-span.
I can also see where some might not. Tons of vapor...They do like the juice and go through it twice as fast.
It rocks that we have so many decent choices these days and that they're all selling pretty well and constantly getting better with every shipment...
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My initial purchase of a VV was to turn down the voltage. I vape to hard for a regular 1.5 ohm atty, and I run it dry in a couple of drags and burn the juice. Failomizers I would get 1 drag, then 2nd one was burnt rubber. Boges were good for a couple of hits. Everyone was saying LRs were the bomb, so I kept buying them thinking it was just a crappy brand or something. No, it was the 3.7 volts my little Screwdriver was hitting them with. When the provari came in, I turned all the 1.5 ohm stuff down to 3.3 and they were fine, just that small .4 ohm difference did the trick. Since those days, and my love affair with the GGTS, I don't really need VV like I once did. 2.0 ohm is perfect for me at 3.7V, 4.0 ohm is perfect at 6V. Dual coils (1.5) are perfect at 5. I sold the darwin, as I only needed 1 VV to experiment with, and find that perfect ohm for whatever juice ratio I mix for the week on a particular atty or carto. The ratio's on the mix play just as much a part of the equation as watts does now. High VG stuff, when I want to vape cloud, I have to crank up because VG mutes the hell out of flavors. If I'm using Everclear, I can turn it down. If I'm using bunches of Tobacco Absolute or Extract, I prefer higher ohm cartos/attys and subsequent volts to keep the flavor true.
In short, always remember there are MANY factors to consider, and don't limit yourself. Get a VV unit, mix your own juice, experiment a bit. Even dual coils, as bad ... as they are, can be bad also if you load it with skunkjuice that is thicker then tar...... no matter how many volts you throw at it. Likewise, your perfectly blended juice tailored to your desires can make your little Ego then end all of end all in the PV world. Performance is always relative, but you really have to have some options to work with. DIY juice, with lots of experiments + VV + carto/atty that doesn't rape your mix=win.
The law applies to the circuit no matter if there's one or one million resistors.
6.25 watts each. 6.25+6.25=12.5
Without knowing exactly what the resistance is with your (presumably) full-of-juice carto, it's tough to show you, but an unloaded (not full) carto with a 3.2 ohm coil - 5volts divided by 3.2ohms = 1.56 amps. Then P= I squared times resistance for a total of 7.78 watts. Times two = a little over 15 watts. Throw some juice in it to add resistance, and if yours are like mine you're now really close to 3.6 ohms resistance per coil (1.8 total), then we come up with 6.18 watts times two equals 12.36 watts. ---- You said 12.5, so I guess we are there with either a minor variance in ohms or a minor variance of how many amps you can push. I can't say which without metering them myself... but it's so close that it doesn't matter which. Figure it with one coil and multiply by the number of coils and you have it.
I do agree with that for sure. My first couple of boxes of DCs had some serious QC issues. The last box and so far the one I'm in now have been perfect. I've bought a lot of vaping gear over the last year or so. The quality of all of it seems to improve and there's a lot of good gear out there to be had now that wasn't around even 6 months ago... Or maybe I'm getting wiser and finding myself more able to avoid junk. At the very least, I've only had a couple of disappointments since I started reading ECF and a couple of other forums. Other people have certainly been a big factor in my ability to find quality gear.
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Can't speak for getting better. I'm still on my first 5 and have 1 left in the box after 5 weeks.
I ruined one. A second failed from the start, and 2 more have been running hard and long. No sign of dying yet.
I run on standard 510 batteries so it's 3.2v or so. They probably think they have a great thing going at that voltage and hang in well.
I did get a 1.25 ohm dc in the mail and haven't bothered with it yet.
When my inhales are light and basically match that of a real cig (i still smoke and can judge that), these don't even consider getting warm, and yet surpass the vapor (smoke) of a real cig.
I think these will be the carto's that allow me to put down the cigs for good. They act like the real thing which is what I was after. I use straight VG or a VG PG 50/50% mix and the fluid isn't hard on carto's like some I've used in the past that were carto killers.
Great units, and up there with the Boge LR's on a 510 or Bloog, LR's on my 808's. QC isn't the best on these first units, but worth a few defects to enjoy what they can do.
Pig
I ruined one. A second failed from the start, and 2 more have been running hard and long. No sign of dying yet.
I run on standard 510 batteries so it's 3.2v or so. They probably think they have a great thing going at that voltage and hang in well.
I did get a 1.25 ohm dc in the mail and haven't bothered with it yet.
When my inhales are light and basically match that of a real cig (i still smoke and can judge that), these don't even consider getting warm, and yet surpass the vapor (smoke) of a real cig.
I think these will be the carto's that allow me to put down the cigs for good. They act like the real thing which is what I was after. I use straight VG or a VG PG 50/50% mix and the fluid isn't hard on carto's like some I've used in the past that were carto killers.
Great units, and up there with the Boge LR's on a 510 or Bloog, LR's on my 808's. QC isn't the best on these first units, but worth a few defects to enjoy what they can do.
Pig
For purposes of this discussion, lets assume 6.25 watts for each coil.
If I take 2 heating elements and run 6.25 watts into each, it is not equivalent to one heating element running at 12.5 watts. Im not exactly sure of the science / electronics involved, I just know this simply isnt the way it works.
If I take a 12 inch dual coil speaker and compare it to (using the same brand name and from the same series of speaker) a 12 inch single coil speaker, one is not twice as loud as the other.
If I take two heating elements and touch them together while they are heated, the temp. doesnt double.
I think it is important the distinction is made. Dual coils are NOT equivalent to single coils.
In other words, 1x12.5 watt heating element is not the same as 2x6.25 heating elements running in parallel. If they were, we wouldnt have both single and dual coils. There is a definite difference between the two.
As I said, I just dont know the science behind it (its escaping my small brain at the moment, maybe it will come to me tomorrow).
If I take 2 heating elements and run 6.25 watts into each, it is not equivalent to one heating element running at 12.5 watts. Im not exactly sure of the science / electronics involved, I just know this simply isnt the way it works.
If I take a 12 inch dual coil speaker and compare it to (using the same brand name and from the same series of speaker) a 12 inch single coil speaker, one is not twice as loud as the other.
If I take two heating elements and touch them together while they are heated, the temp. doesnt double.
I think it is important the distinction is made. Dual coils are NOT equivalent to single coils.
In other words, 1x12.5 watt heating element is not the same as 2x6.25 heating elements running in parallel. If they were, we wouldnt have both single and dual coils. There is a definite difference between the two.
As I said, I just dont know the science behind it (its escaping my small brain at the moment, maybe it will come to me tomorrow).
I won an additional five of these from Bruce in a contest.
To amend my prior short remarks:
There are some juices that these things rock on. Others not so much. But I like them a bit more than before since I've got a menthol that rocks on them.
To amend my prior short remarks:
There are some juices that these things rock on. Others not so much. But I like them a bit more than before since I've got a menthol that rocks on them.
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