Sparkplug .........

[h8isgr8]

you said it works with the 801 atty - so the only other idea i had is that your carto might not be compatible. post your brand here and see if anybody else is using them successfully with an adapter. mine are ce2s, those work without a glitch

I think that might have something to do with the adapter center post. I can reproduce problem this with some CE2 R2's.

Adapters are designed with the center post being tapered on one end and flat on the other. I believe this is done so when they are assembled the tapered end allows it to be pushed into place easier. You notice on regular 510 devices the battery center post is flat.

With some CE2's this can cause a problem as the center conductor of the carto is reverse tapered. So it's kind of like.....

battery-> >-carto

.... with the carto side ">" possibly not extending down far enough to get a good contact.

You can try taking the adapter center post out and flipping it around so the flat side faces the carto. Be aware that the diameter of the flat side of the center post is really close to the size of the threaded connector of a carto/atty. This could potentially cause a short circuit, especially if the carto center conductor is not sticking out far enough (got pushed flush with the threads). That said, this is how I've had mine since day one and have not had any issues.

A note for flipping the adapter center post around: After you push the center post out, take the silicone insulator off of it (remembering it's orientation) and put it back in the hole in the adapter BEFORE pushing the center post back in.

Here is a pic of before and after.....





If anyone else is having firing issues that they think is not related to the above problem, I have solution for a possible button contact problem.

 

[skydragon]

for a goodsized picture you need to host it first on something like tinypic.com, they will provide you with an url to post the picture here.
but look at your sp one more time. as h8 said it's all mechanical - there need to be 2 contact points made and that's it. on the bottom it's the button that needs to touch the battery, on top the stem of the brass pin needs to touch the carto for the atty to fire.
you said it works with the 801 atty - so the only other idea i had is that your carto might not be compatible. post your brand here and see if anybody else is using them successfully with an adapter.
mine are ce2s, those work without a glitch

The only 801 stuff I have is the two cartos I bought from MadVapes. Other than the atty that came with it. The reason I am thinking it might be the threading is because the carto won't screw down tight (leaves a space about the size of a dime) and that is after I kind of force it a little. It actually leaves what looks like little metal shavings and black "powder". The adapter will only screw on about three turns comfortably. Then I again have to force it but it will not go past about a third of the way.

I think someone else bought cartos from MadVapes as I followed their link. I don't recall whom.

Now............ I don't know if it should still be working better even with that gap. I did look at the button cap and yes it barely pushes past the washer. But is it touching the battery to where it gets a good connection? I have no clue. How can you tell since you can't see it once the cap is screwed on?

 

[Eighttrucktires]

I have decided the 801 cartos from Madvapes are less than satisfying. To cool a vape and not the hit I need. they do hold a ton of liquid though. I wondered about the connection but, that's not it. I prefer to screw down the end caps first then, the carto/atty. They won't go down all the way but they do connect. The atty cart - combo hits very good and I'll keep those big 801 cartomizers for back up. Now i have some of these little guys coming Tuesday or Wednesday.....
DSE801/Joye302/BE112 LR Cartomizer (5pk)
I got two packs to get free shipping. Anybody tried them on their spark plug?
Take care,

 

[JimmyJet]

Small word of warning. I decided to try a type-a eGo-t atty with the 510 adapter. The type-a atty fits the sparkplug well, vapes well, and looks nice, with only a very small gap.

One small problem, though. When I removed the atty from the sparkplug, the 510 adapter came off with it. Now the adapter is buried inside the atty cone and I see no easy way to extract it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, JJ

 

[h8isgr8]

Now............ I don't know if it should still be working better even with that gap. I did look at the button cap and yes it barely pushes past the washer. But is it touching the battery to where it gets a good connection? I have no clue. How can you tell since you can't see it once the cap is screwed on?

Have you tried assembling it all from the top down, tailcap

last?

Screw in the carto, then the top cap, then insert the battery, then screw on the tailcap. The tailcap/tube might have a gap, but it should still be working.

If you want to mod the the tailcap/switch so that the inner contact area pushes in a little further, do this......

1) Remove the top and the battery, leaving just the tailcap and tube together.
2) Put the tube, tailcap up, on a hard surface.
3) Use a stiff non-marring object like a pen to press firmly on the button until the nylon insert, spring, and button pop out.
4) Bend the end of both side of the springs like in the pic below (careful, it can easily puncture your skin).....



5) Reassemble

That will allow the spring to compress further allowing the button end to stick out a little more, like this......

 

[tiburonfirst]

Small word of warning. I decided to try a type-a eGo-t atty with the 510 adapter. The type-a atty fits the sparkplug well, vapes well, and looks nice, with only a very small gap.

One small problem, though. When I removed the atty from the sparkplug, the 510 adapter came off with it. Now the adapter is buried inside the atty cone and I see no easy way to extract it.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, JJ

is there a way to hold the atty in place with pliers so you can unscrew the adapter? you might have to wrap the atty to protect against plier marks.
i'm off to visit mil, bbl

fingers crossed, sky!!!!

 

[JimmyJet]

is there a way to hold the atty in place with pliers so you can unscrew the adapter? you might have to wrap the atty to protect against plier marks.
i'm off to visit mil, bbl

fingers crossed, sky!!!!

The space between the outside of the 510 adapter and the inside of the cone is very small. In other words, the cone just barely fits over the adapter. There is only space for surgical type tools.

Honestly at this point I'd rather lose the atty than the adapter. I have lots of attys but only one adapter.

I'll keep brainstorming. JJ

 

[sophie_lapin]

Sky, you are just having the same problem most of us had with the adaptor...
Like mentioned right above,
1. Put your atty/carto onto the adaptor.
2. Put the assembled adaptor onto the top cap.
3. Put the top cap onto the SP2 tube.
4. Put your battery into the tube.
5. Put your end cap on (this is now where your gap will be BUT you shouldnt have any firing problems).

To fill the gap, you can buy a pack of Black O Rings Size 10 from Home Depot, but you don't have to.
That size works using the original battery. If you bought another type of battery, the size of it will be slightly different even though it is not supposed to vary. In that case, you will need to try a different sized O-
ring.

The only 801 stuff I have is the two cartos I bought from MadVapes. Other than the atty that came with it. The reason I am thinking it might be the threading is because the carto won't screw down tight (leaves a space about the size of a dime) and that is after I kind of force it a little. It actually leaves what looks like little metal shavings and black "powder". The adapter will only screw on about three turns comfortably. Then I again have to force it but it will not go past about a third of the way.

I think someone else bought cartos from MadVapes as I followed their link. I don't recall whom.

Now............ I don't know if it should still be working better even with that gap. I did look at the button cap and yes it barely pushes past the washer. But is it touching the battery to where it gets a good connection? I have no clue. How can you tell since you can't see it once the cap is screwed on?

 

[tiburonfirst]

sophie, sky's problem is a little different, what all of us experienced with the gap was just a cosmetic issue. but sky is not getting any vapor, ie it does not fire up.

 

[skydragon]

Have you tried assembling it all from the top down, tailcap

last?

Screw in the carto, then the top cap, then insert the battery, then screw on the tailcap. The tailcap/tube might have a gap, but it should still be working.

If you want to mod the the tailcap/switch so that the inner contact area pushes in a little further, do this......

1) Remove the top and the battery, leaving just the tailcap and tube together.
2) Put the tube, tailcap up, on a hard surface.
3) Use a stiff non-marring object like a pen to press firmly on the button until the nylon insert, spring, and button pop out.
4) Bend the end of both side of the springs like in the pic below (careful, it can easily puncture your skin).....

View attachment 37178

5) Reassemble

That will allow the spring to compress further allowing the button end to stick out a little more, like this......

View attachment 37179

I did try that h8isgr8. I'm a little leery to try messing with the spring because if I screw something up, I'm guessing I can't return it. But....in case I decide to try (which stupid me probably will and void the warranty) what exactly am I bending the ends of the springs to? As in, what configuration?

fingers crossed, sky!!!!

Don't cross your eyes tib. I have a feeling they may get stuck in that position. Remember when your parents always said not to do that for very long or they would get stuck like that? lol

Sky, you are just having the same problem most of us had with the adaptor...
Like mentioned right above,
1. Put your atty/carto onto the adaptor.
2. Put the assembled adaptor onto the top cap.
3. Put the top cap onto the SP2 tube.
4. Put your battery into the tube.
5. Put your end cap on (this is now where your gap will be BUT you shouldnt have any firing problems).

To fill the gap, you can buy a pack of Black O Rings Size 10 from Home Depot, but you don't have to.
That size works using the original battery. If you bought another type of battery, the size of it will be slightly different even though it is not supposed to vary. In that case, you will need to try a different sized O-
ring.

Hi sophie,

I did try that as well. When I do it in that sequence I do get the gap (which I couldn't care less about) and nothing happens. No vapor, nothing.

 

[sophie_lapin]

Sky,
I had to push the brass pin plunger down on my top cap before I did anything at all.
My brass pin was stuck. Have you pushed it down with your finger so that it is flush with the aluminum threads?
Once you do that, the adaptor screws on without any probs.

Im out of ideas after this, lol.

 

[webbcm127]

you could also find a washer so the bat could make the connection, make sure its a nickle plated or somthing so the eclectricity can flow threw it tho, just a thought not 100%

 

[tiburonfirst]

a very strange thing just happened to me ..... i changed my battery and doing that i left the little trim ring on the endcap when i took that off. i screwed it back on and hardly any vapor!!!!!!
removed the trim ring and tightened the end cap a little more - voila, the vapor was back.
apparently, it takes very little to break the connection. mine couldn't have been more than an eighth of a turn; i was really surprised.
please, check that you are not leaving anything just a little loose ......

 

[skydragon]

Sky,
I had to push the brass pin plunger down on my top cap before I did anything at all.
My brass pin was stuck. Have you pushed it down with your finger so that it is flush with the aluminum threads?
Once you do that, the adaptor screws on without any probs.


Im out of ideas after this, lol.

I did that and it fell through. I didn't learn the first time. Had to do it twice. Try dropping it back in so the pin goes back through the hole.

a very strange thing just happened to me ..... i changed my battery and doing that i left the little trim ring on the endcap when i took that off. i screwed it back on and hardly any vapor!!!!!!
removed the trim ring and tightened the end cap a little more - voila, the vapor was back.
apparently, it takes very little to break the connection. mine couldn't have been more than an eighth of a turn; i was really surprised.
please, check that you are not leaving anything just a little loose ......

tib............I'm not positive what you mean about the trim ring. I assume you are talking about the white ring around the inside of the button cap. If so, it is not at all loose.

BUT...........I might have found at least one problem. I was playing with the button cap, pushing it in etc and as I said before, it hardly came out. Well, the more I played with it the more it kind of seemed like it was hanging up or something. Pushed it really hard, heard a loud clicking sound and the pin or whatever it is came out further. So now sometimes it will push further out and sometimes it still seems to get caught but I did get a few good hits off of it. If you take yours off, does it make a loud clicking noise when you push the button?


Even though it still isn't working as anticipated, I want to say Thank You to everyone for your suggestions and help. I do appreciate it. Maybe we are on the right track now.

 

[h8isgr8]

BUT...........I might have found at least one problem. I was playing with the button cap, pushing it in etc and as I said before, it hardly came out. Well, the more I played with it the more it kind of seemed like it was hanging up or something. Pushed it really hard, heard a loud clicking sound and the pin or whatever it is came out further. So now sometimes it will push further out and sometimes it still seems to get caught but I did get a few good hits off of it. If you take yours off, does it make a loud clicking noise when you push the button?

Well, there really isn't anything in the button to "click", there is only a spring inside. If you press hard and make it "click", which in turn causes the button contact to extend further; it simply means you caused the spring coils to overlap each other.

Like I said earlier, if you think the button travel isn't enough the simple fix is to bend the spring like I clearly showed in the pic I posted.

 

[Ghetto_Cowgirl]

H8 I love you! I was having a bit of an issue with it being picky and not wanting to always fire up, unless I pushed that button in as hard as I could, which hurts I pulled the spring out and stretched it, now she's firing just perfect every time again. Thanks!!

 

[h8isgr8]

H8 I love you! I was having a bit of an issue with it being picky and not wanting to always fire up, unless I pushed that button in as hard as I could, which hurts I pulled the spring out and stretched it, now she's firing just perfect every time again. Thanks!!

Anything for you sleeping beauty.

 

[Ghetto_Cowgirl]

Sleeping beauty? I've been awake at 4am every single freaking morning this week! WHY?!?! Ugh!

 

[h8isgr8]

Sleeping beauty? I've been awake at 4am every single freaking morning this week! WHY?!?! Ugh!

You and kitty look comfy in your avatar at least.

I'm awake at 4AM every morning, but that just goes with working a night shift.

 

[tiburonfirst]

sky wrote: tib............I'm not positive what you mean about the trim ring. I assume you are talking about the white ring around the inside of the button cap. If so, it is not at all loose.

no, not the washer ...... to hide the gap between the body and endcap i found some pretty colored rings which i use to hide that gap. that is what i left on when screwing the endcap back on after switching out the battery.
what surprised me was that just a tiny missing part of a turn stopped the sp2 from firing.