only creating the safer chromium oxides by heating the mesh.
only creating the safer chromium oxides by heating the mesh.
I just bought it. I'll try it on pieces of mesh flame heated and coil heated. Looks like the kit should give an approximate concentration depending on how the sample is tested. I'll have to put some thought into the sample preparation.
I appreciate the investigation. I just didn't like the post about enemies without tellin your friends details of what you found!
I do suspect based on the digging I have done, that the temps necessary to get Cr(VI) are much higher than the normal service temperatures of stainless steel, i.e. it isn't mentioned anywhere because at the temps required to create Cr(VI) the stainless fails for other reasons and is not usable.
Of course, the service temps are below melting, and we know that Cr(VI) forms when stainless is melted. Therefore, my suspicion is that as long as we stay below the service temps for stainless, we are OK. That number appears to be north of 1700F, maybe significantly north.
But, we do want to be safe, so just keep in mind that there appears to be evidence that 1700F is tolerable. At the same time, there is no need to hit the wick with a butane or propane torch. For me, I will continue to use it but will only do juice burns and work a little harder to get a working coil.
I used a Diphenylcarbohydrazide chemical method test for trace amounts of CRVI. The problem is that the test doesn't tell me if it's 1 µg/L or a million.
If you want to try it yourself: Hanna Instruments HI3846 Chromium VI Test Kit for 100 Tests: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Likely you will need to test your water while you are at it. I guess it is in a lot of drinking water.
Is it possible to somehow put the layer of aluminum oxide to work at insulating from SS mesh?
So I've read. I'll definitely test my water while I'm at it.
Not really but you could make a Aluminum mesh wick and anodize it. It would be chemically inert and non conductive.
It also forms when brazing is performed, the temperature range for that is 1000°F to 1700°F depending on filler material. For NI brazing of SS the temp is 1225-1500degF.
Hey Junkman,
You are absolutely correct. I do have evidence and information but not enough, that is why I started this thread and why I am sending more samples to a lab. What I do know is enough to make me cautious and I would not recommend to anyone, even my enemy, the use of a heavily oxidized SS wick at this time.
I am sorry that people are getting so jumpy but there is nothing I can do about that.
I do not like being the bearer of possible bad news... Quite frankly this sucks. The problem is that I can't do this alone. So here I am sticking my head out on the chopping block. I will be very happy if the results come back negative and I am wrong or if someone can prove me wrong. I actively seek that.
I'm still waiting for the second batch of lab results to come in. I fear that a sample size that would be conclusive and comprehensive under all the possible variations of alloy and temperature treatments is too large for me to afford. At 200$ american per sample this is getting pricy. What I do know is that the chemical composition of the oxides on the outside of the mesh is primarily composed of CRIV CRV and CRVI.
Understand that I am heating each wick then rolling it in my fingers like you would to tighten it up a bit, this provides enough friction to loosen some of the oxide in powder form into the liquid. Try it, torch a wick then over a piece of clean paper roll it a bit and see what comes off. (Do not inhale any of the powder that comes off, I am wearing a mask for this experiment)
View attachment 175653
Here I took the same piece of mesh and re-torched it, rolled it in my fingers for about 2 seconds and put some distilled water on it, the pics speak for themselves.
View attachment 175652
View attachment 175651
You couldn't pay me enough to vape that liquid.
The temperature to which the mesh is heated is directly proportional to the amount of each oxide that shows up in each sample. I've found no CRVI in samples that I heated in a oven at 600degF for 20 min. That seems to work the best and is the safest bet so far. Samples I heated to glowing red (+1300degF)... I wouldn't give to my enemies.
Another thing I'm testing is after oxidizing the wick, soaking the wick in vinegar for a few days then rinsing in distilled water. This should reduce any CRVI to one of the lower oxide states.
Honestly, I'm done with SS mesh, It's just not worth it and some of the ceramic and glass fiber options are just as good and without a doubt safer.
If anyone has any ideas please post them. I'm actually thinking of getting some aluminum mesh rolling it up and anodizing it. Theoretically it should be almost perfect non conductive mesh.
A.Jay,
Aluminum is only reactive in the presence of a relatively strong acid or base, weak organic acids such as those found in foods generally have little or no effect on aluminum. E liquid is pretty PH neutral so no worries there. Think of all the aluminum beer cans out there. Ever used aluminum foil? Alloys 1200, 3003 and 5005 Aluminum are food safe.
When I dry burn my coil, I leave the wick in place, and it glows orangeAfter googling a bit, my take is that I'm only creating the safer chromium oxides by heating the mesh. I'm looking forward to the test results!
If my mesh tests positive for hexavalent chromium, I'll just have to switch to platinum mesh![]()
Good point and thread Boden.
I noticed that "material" coming off my wicks when I first started gennys and doing a full oxidation process (torch,quench, torch quench, burn juice, rinse...repeat, etc.). I stop that practice when I saw degradation of the wick material. I now do not really oxide my wicks at all. I do torch lightly, (more for removing any residual oils after washing), but based upon your chart it seems to only be around the purple level. My wick color left me scratching my head until I saw your chart. lol
Unfortunately there is "consensus" that you need to oxidize the @#$ out of the wick in order to eliminate shorts. This is really just a band-aid that can be eliminated with good technique and practice.
Here is recent setup I put together about a month ago The second picture is after 75mls and full clean (dry burn and quick brush off), still dry. I just did another clean tonight after another 50 mls on top of that 75 but started vaping on it as a read this thread. After each cleaning, my wick still looks the same and shows no signs of kicking off that material you showed earlier. I think you can click on them to see a higher resolution version.
Looking forward to seeing addition lab results.
Initial:
After 75 mls:
After 125 mls:
![]()
When I dry burn my coil, I leave the wick in place, and it glows orangeAfter googling a bit, my take is that I'm only creating the safer chromium oxides by heating the mesh. I'm looking forward to the test results!
Carbon Platinum Mesh, Titanium Tungsten Mesh, Chrome Mesh... did I miss anything? This is pretty Meshed Up.
Yet another unknown - Platinum Mesh. ..Platinum... ..Would you please share what you know about Platinum Mesh?... as related to a Torch Burn for Oxidation, anyone else ever using it for a Wick, and any other Knowns or UnKnowns for this Potential Wick Material?
I just get the Willies every time someone talks about (or mentions) yet another possible material to use as a Wick.
I can't send you a PM. ..I can't post a Visitor Message to your Profile Page. ..Hmmmm.
So I have to do it here (since you mentioned it here). ...I hate the thought of Derailing this thread, but you opened that door. You'd be welcome to PM Me, but I wouln't be able to PM back, and since my request might make others curious also, you can answer as you will... if you will.
If you have experience with Platinum Mesh, especially as applied to E-Cigs as a Wick, then maybe you should start a New Thread.
Carbon Platinum Mesh, Titanium Tungsten Mesh, Chrome Mesh... did I miss anything? This is pretty Meshed Up.