Thanks Cyrus, I will have to try this method. I am spreading the word on this thread. I think this is something all Genesis users should be aware of. I am also going to be trying out some of the new ceramic wicks.
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Cool stuff, please keep everyone posted. I'm shocked that this thread hasn't been engaged more
I just posted the link in the I hybrid thread and the DID thread, I am sure there will be some more conversation too. I am also going to post links in other forums.
Thanks for the link, AtlantisBoy, to this interesting thread. I've subscribed & am now bookmarking.
If the black dust is rolled onto the papertowel, doesn't this relieve the excess off the wick? I've had wicks that were nasty, and others that were sweet and clean. I oxidize them all. The nasty ones I've even taken a paper towel to clean, and when handled again they don't shed. The longer in between cleanings I go, the nastier they get... maybe all we need to do is to clean our wicks more often. ?
With that in mind, wouldn't the "quench" method shock the excess oxide off as well?
So many questions, to fit alongside the various ways we prep and use our wicks.
I appreciate this testing, and hope there are ways to avoid any possible problems.
If the black dust is rolled onto the papertowel, doesn't this relieve the excess off the wick? I've had wicks that were nasty, and others that were sweet and clean. I oxidize them all. The nasty ones I've even taken a paper towel to clean, and when handled again they don't shed. The longer in between cleanings I go, the nastier they get... maybe all we need to do is to clean our wicks more often. ?
With that in mind, wouldn't the "quench" method shock the excess oxide off as well?
So many questions, to fit alongside the various ways we prep and use our wicks.
I appreciate this testing, and hope there are ways to avoid any possible problems.
Iron-chromium-aluminium (FeCrAl) wire alloys
This is the wire alot are currently using, Kanthal A-1, starts out as chromium. Why would this not be included??
This is the wire alot are currently using, Kanthal A-1, starts out as chromium. Why would this not be included??
There are several methods avoiding the oxidation of SS mesh. See e.g. the threads:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/363175-petar-k-method-hybrid-wick.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/362729-ceramic-coated-coil.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/363175-petar-k-method-hybrid-wick.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/362729-ceramic-coated-coil.html
Makes you want to give ceramic a try afterall maybe.
I am definitely going to be trying ceramic, has anyone done a tutorial showing the best way to coil one?
Perhaps someone can take some relevant info from here: http://www.stainless-steel-tube.org/309S-1.4833-Elevated-Temperature-Oxidation-Resistance.htm
Main question that comes to mind is: Is that "dust" composed of chromium oxides or breakaway iron oxide?
Note: I personally don't use ss meshes because the oxidation process does produce breakaway materials and I don't know what they are. (And I know the components in SS)
Hope this discussion helps getting some information about the subject.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
Main question that comes to mind is: Is that "dust" composed of chromium oxides or breakaway iron oxide?
Note: I personally don't use ss meshes because the oxidation process does produce breakaway materials and I don't know what they are. (And I know the components in SS)
Hope this discussion helps getting some information about the subject.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
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Everyone hurry up with your unoxidized set ups so we can compare notes
Please note the wick will absorb secretions, dead skin and nacho cheese from your fingers with a vengeance, and without a torch involved the only way to get rid of this is to vape through it, flush the living crap out of your wick before installing or to hopefully avoid it from happening it all by wearing gloves
Don't want anyone feeling like they have a short when in fact all they have is vaporized keratin
Please note the wick will absorb secretions, dead skin and nacho cheese from your fingers with a vengeance, and without a torch involved the only way to get rid of this is to vape through it, flush the living crap out of your wick before installing or to hopefully avoid it from happening it all by wearing gloves
Don't want anyone feeling like they have a short when in fact all they have is vaporized keratin
Just keep to the smaller tanks. They're empty before they darken, more often than not. At least my Mini DID does. Perhaps that's why the flavors stay fresher longer too.I hope so too Uma because right now I am paranoid using my Gennies
Caught wind of this thread last night, had to finish today. Very interested to see where this all leads. How much real risk is presented, etc.
Just keep in mind any other material will eventually find some minute to major possible risk.
Ceramic dust is just as bad. Some ceramic wicks being used have been sprayed with anti-fungal chemicals. Food for thought.
There's more Cr(VI) laying around you than you might realize. True it's more a problem if inhaled than ingested, but keep that in mind. It very well could be in your drinking water.
It's all relevant info to some degree...
Be interested in finding out how this pans out and this post also helps ensure I keep up with the thread.
Just keep in mind any other material will eventually find some minute to major possible risk.
Ceramic dust is just as bad. Some ceramic wicks being used have been sprayed with anti-fungal chemicals. Food for thought.
There's more Cr(VI) laying around you than you might realize. True it's more a problem if inhaled than ingested, but keep that in mind. It very well could be in your drinking water.
It's all relevant info to some degree...
Be interested in finding out how this pans out and this post also helps ensure I keep up with the thread.
So I just pulled one of my drill-bit formed coil set up using a modified Petar K technique. I had been using this with an un-oxidized mesh for a couple of weeks with no shorting issues. After a bit of cleaning, I tested the outer and inner surfaces for electrical continuity. I could not get any conductance from either surface of the coil. There is a distinct patina on the coil portion vs the tail of the wire which doesn't see heat. Is this what aluminum oxide looks like on Kanthal D?
So I just pulled one of my drill-bit formed coil set up using a modified Petar K technique. I had been using this with an un-oxidized mesh for a couple of weeks with no shorting issues. After a bit of cleaning, I tested the outer and inner surfaces for electrical continuity. I could not get any conductance from either surface of the coil. There is a distinct patina on the coil portion vs the tail of the wire which doesn't see heat. Is this what aluminum oxide looks like on Kanthal D?
The layer that forms on the outside of SS that has not been heated above 700degF is CR2O3. No worries about that stuff.
I suspect most of that patina is baked on Glucose.
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what kind of wire is that? not Kanthal A1? it looks so flat; i'd have thought it was more round.... or did i miss somehting? thanks
So I just pulled one of my drill-bit formed coil set up using a modified Petar K technique. I had been using this with an un-oxidized mesh for a couple of weeks with no shorting issues. After a bit of cleaning, I tested the outer and inner surfaces for electrical continuity. I could not get any conductance from either surface of the coil. There is a distinct patina on the coil portion vs the tail of the wire which doesn't see heat. Is this what aluminum oxide looks like on Kanthal D?
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