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MattB101

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If i understand correctly, this is only needed to make TC work with a nickel 200 coil?

R

Pretty much my understanding too. I am building a dna-40 mod but, am now wondering if the hassle with TC is worth it. Nickel is a pain in the pooter to work with and TC doesn't work well with the latest kayfun. I am DEFINITELY a kayfun fan and want the latest without the hassle.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

buffalofloyd

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It's kinda sad when you have to modify a $180 atomizer to make it work properly or to get the most out of it. To be fair, this design was probably in the works before the introduction or knowledge of the DNA40, so it's not really Svoe Mesto's fault although they probably could have used something other than a spring, I dunno. The spring does seem to be the weakest part of the unit but if you are on a regulated device and using kanthal this should not be a major issue, right? I didn't seem to have an issue when I used some kanthal but I had a unpleasant experience overall with my K4 and sold it off to someone else who is enjoying the hell out of it. I definitely had a few issues when using my DNA40 in TC mode and decided to K4 wasn't for me right now, went back to my K-Lite+v2 and it works wonderfully.

It will be interesting to see if Svoe Mesto comes up with a fix or modification in favor of using the spring. The K5 should be interesting, or K4.1, or K4v2, or K4+ ;)
 

laurie9300

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Maybe we could use one of those 20A sprung contact probes we use in 510s?
Mouser has a whole range..........
ADF1EF43-8559-40DC-A0DC-D3F33F8EE50B_zpszgfzfh7e.jpg
 

qorax

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It's kinda sad when you have to modify a $180 atomizer to make it work properly or to get the most out of it. To be fair, this design was probably in the works before the introduction or knowledge of the DNA40, so it's not really Svoe Mesto's fault although they probably could have used something other than a spring, I dunno. The spring does seem to be the weakest part of the unit but if you are on a regulated device and using kanthal this should not be a major issue, right? I didn't seem to have an issue when I used some kanthal but I had a unpleasant experience overall with my K4 and sold it off to someone else who is enjoying the hell out of it. I definitely had a few issues when using my DNA40 in TC mode and decided to K4 wasn't for me right now, went back to my K-Lite+v2 and it works wonderfully.

It will be interesting to see if Svoe Mesto comes up with a fix or modification in favor of using the spring. The K5 should be interesting, or K4.1, or K4v2, or K4+ ;)

Yes, probably SM wasn't aware of the upcoming TCV, thus no thought was given towards that. Incidentally the spring isn't causing any issue whatsoever with my regular wire builds. No significant voltage drop too while on mechs.

And since I don't have a DNA40 device yet, besides when I have one I'd not be using my K4 for a Ni200 build in any case, thus the spring is a non-issue to me. And w/out that mode I've just no complaints on my K4. In fact it vapes tremendously well ~ way better than my KFLs. Which makes me a very happy camper!
 

BNEAT

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I'd be interested in the contamination of your body with brass.

It shouldn't be an issue: it's no where near the atomization chamber, and is never in contact with your juice. It's not directly in the air stream, either.

Nice work BNEAT! I'm interested in how it affects consistency in TP mode.

To be honest, I don't know that I was having a problem with the spring to begin with. I was definitely having teething issues with my Ni200 coils and the DNA40 in general. I know people were saying it could be a problem, or trying to blame their problems on it. So I decided to rule it out completely.

I will say this: it hasn't bumped the temp rev-limiter since I modified it. Before, it seemed like the vape would wonder around from strong to weak, sometimes hitting temp control, sometimes going for hours without.
 

dwcraig1

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I just finished replacing my spring, I used a piece of telescopic antenna from a long gone remote controlled toy. Choose the appropriate size, cut it off with a tubing cutter about 4.5 mm long and placed it in there. I have about the same gap remaining as BNEAT. Works good but still Nichrome at the moment, I may get around to doing a nickel build here in a bit.
Me, I ain't throwing that spring away, I just paid $32 at Vaperev for 2 #1 kits just to get the springs but good thing 'cause while I have a whopper of an o-ring assortment I have very few that are 1.5 mm CS

Just want to add that I swear it's hitting way harder, I would have had to take voltage readings off the 2 screws on the deck before and after as just resistance unless under load isn't going to tell much. My unloaded resistance stayed the same, it's on a Taifun Eye which only reads it before you hit it.
Wait, I think I posted the resistance yesterday with it open and on my DNA 40, I'll chck that.

OK, it was 1.18Ω now it reads 1.05Ω for whatever that's worth, maybe I got a couple of coils stuck together but I doubt it. LOL
 
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Mark Denison

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Yes, probably SM wasn't aware of the upcoming TCV, thus no thought was given towards that. Incidentally the spring isn't causing any issue whatsoever with my regular wire builds. No significant voltage drop too while on mechs.

And since I don't have a DNA40 device yet, besides when I have one I'd not be using my K4 for a Ni200 build in any case, thus the spring is a non-issue to me. And w/out that mode I've just no complaints on my K4. In fact it vapes tremendously well ~ way better than my KFLs. Which makes me a very happy camper!
There isn't a problem using ni200 wire in the K4. It's the only wire I've used in mine! Mine can't be the only one that works. And I'm not any kind of expert at building nickel coils. At all!
 
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dwcraig1

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I'm not sure if what I did was smart or stupid, I don't know, they both start with "s".Anyway I've been asking my self that question all my life and I'm getting pretty old.
Here's what I did. So tempered Ni200 is the way to go I'm to understand but all I have is a bunch of annealed so I turn off the TP and set it to 10 watts, get the mounted glowing right then fired it till red and quinced just the mounted coil in water. I have no idea if it added any body to the coil but it is now operating at a steady 0.11Ω set at 450F and 20 watts.
28 gauge nickel and CC, coil is about 2.5 mm id and 11/12 wraps.
 

dwcraig1

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There isn't a problem using ni200 wire in the K4. It's the only wire I've used in mine! Mine can't be the only one that works. And I'm not any kind of expert at building nickel coils. At all!

I guess it would certainly be easy enough for me to put the spring back in, maybe I'll do that tomorrow and see if anything changes.
This is my first nickel build on the K4 BTW
 

AstroTurf

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BNEAT, I'd buy some spring replacements too if you started selling some. Get on to it before SvoeMesto decide they need to copy you!

Too Late...

The Clowners have been taking notes and now all of the 20 dollar versions will have this upgrade.

Oh, and for free the Clowners are adding a brass chimney section too!!!

LOLz, Jim
 

BNEAT

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There isn't a problem using ni200 wire in the K4. It's the only wire I've used in mine! Mine can't be the only one that works. And I'm not any kind of expert at building nickel coils. At all!

I'll agree, the spring works.

But when you open and close the Juice control and watch the resistance change and not repeat exactly when opened, then there's room for improvement.
 

dwcraig1

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Too Late...

The Clowners have been taking notes and now all of the 20 dollar versions will have this upgrade.

Oh, and for free the Clowners are adding a brass chimney section too!!!

LOLz, Jim

Yummy, brass taste, right up there with machine oil.
 
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