Oh yeah, The resistance dropped by .008-.010 ohms by switching between the spring and my new bushing. I switched them several times to confirm this.
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I couldn't find a suitable piece of copper in the shop, so I just used brass for this one.
A person could unscrew their "Air Regulation Screw" and accomplish the same thing. You would probably have to take it apart several times to insure that it is making contact with the "510 Contact Screw" without limiting the movement of the juice control by too much. A good starting point would be to back the adjuster out of the "Center Post" by .6-.7mm and then check the gap with the juice control opened. This method obviously won't work if you have the S-kit installed.
A person could unscrew their "Air Regulation Screw" and accomplish the same thing. You would probably have to take it apart several times to insure that it is making contact with the "510 Contact Screw" without limiting the movement of the juice control by too much. A good starting point would be to back the adjuster out of the "Center Post" by .6-.7mm and then check the gap with the juice control opened. This method obviously won't work if you have the S-kit installed.
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I tried that sometime back. Nope, nada. I had the AFC bolt touching the 510 screw's tail - but the K4 didn't fire. I think I'll've to revisit the system and tinker more.
I made the Flange .63mm x 5mm dia (.025" x .200") The post is about 3mm long, any longer than that and it would block the air holes.
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The hole in the middle isn't needed. The piece of brass I had was already drilled.
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The hole in the middle isn't needed. The piece of brass I had was already drilled.
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Did you mill the whole thing yourself, or did you modify an off the shelf piece?
For some reason when I unscrew the air control screw it doesn't stop and falls out from the nut. Is it confirmed that it should stop?
I turned it on a lathe from a piece bar stock we had in the shop. (I own a Tool & Die shop)
Thanks just re confirming. I thought someone said it stopped at some point before.
Yes it will fall right out. You'll have to leave the 510 secured and separate your tank above the Juice control ring, remove the deck, then adjust the Air Regulation Screw with it apart. Then put the deck back on and check continuity and check the gap with the Juice control opened.
I'd leave the spring out for this
edit: I'd throw the spring in the garbage!
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You own a tool and die shop? It's like getting your drivers license when you already own a car dealership! Cool.
For that method to work, the 510 would have to be tight enough that it doesn't spin like some people are reporting. If it were to spin freely, then it would also spin the Air flow Regulator and you would lose continuity.
Yep that could work if I didn't like a tight draw
If there is a spare Air Regulation Screw in you spare parts bag you can use both of them. Screw the first one all the way in, then back it out to adjust your draw. Then screw the second one in and use it for a contact. (I tried it in my original Center post, and it worked fine)
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When I get a little more spare time (laugh) I'm going to make a tubular spacer so people with the original Center post can still utilize their Air Regulation Screw. I may be able to find suitable copper tubing that would only require cutting to length!
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