I switched to KGD from rayon the last few days and I like it a lot. Sticking to KGD. Also, I fear my K4 is lost in customs hell or something. It has said "sent to country of destination" for the last few days.
SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I switched to KGD from rayon the last few days and I like it a lot. Sticking to KGD. Also, I fear my K4 is lost in customs hell or something. It has said "sent to country of destination" for the last few days.
I think you need to be a verified member to open things there. Just click to get verfied but might take a day or two after you give them your e mail address if i remember right.
Mine said that for quite some time as well. Then is said "Entered Country of Destination". I figured it'd have to go through customs and then onto some distribution center, then to my local post office and then delivered to me. To my surprise, after my status changed to "Entered", I got it the very next day. Very strange.
The scanner if hand held has to be placed in it's dock to download the scanned items at the end of whatever on the older scanners
Mine said "sent to country of destination" for 21 days. Once it finally made it to Chicago it only took 2 days to make it to my door. PostNL tracking never updated, USPS tracking took over after it cleared customs.
No no, it wicks just fine, as far as I can tell. I'm just not used to RTAs. Rayon is on the way (Thanks, Qorax!), will try.
The derlin insulator for the bottom screw does not want to come out, cant get to the airfow screw with the tools I have.. and I don't want to damage anything..
R
Hopefully it doesn't take a month. Oh well, at least it should get here at some point.
You can get to the Air Regulation Screw with it apart, but you really need it all together to adjust it. And even if you take it apart, you'll still need a really small screwdriver to turn it.
Thanks both
Nope, a bit loose 2.5mm ID. A noob with a drill bit, so to say.
Don't have ceramic tweezers yet, so I'm working with pliers after heating it up.
Now I have 0.30mm, 6 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 1.4 Ohms with a The O.B. 70/30juice 3mg, trying to get the watts right. Gurgling a bit...
Have to get used to the taste. It's different to to the BVC. Maybe its the KGD..
R
In my opinion, you did a fantastic job with that build. Looks like s vet did it. I'm looking forward to more of your thoughts and build info.
Nope.. no P3 connector for me today... apparently..
Let's build another coil.
R
Let's build another coil.
R
Thanks.
Gonna try 28awg 6 and 7 wraps around 2.5mm instead of 8.
28awg with the 100VG was better than 29awg with 70/30.
R
EDIT: I seem not to be able to hold A3 strong enough to loosen A9 UC counter screw. It's a new rig. I had to use pliers on the C33 top counter nut...
I almost gave up on trying to find a satisfying Ni200 build for my K4. I like 100vg dual Kanthal builds at around 20-30 watts, and I just couldn't get that Vape with this tank.
It turns out that the smaller diameter in the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" was hitting my wicks and pushing them away from the top of the coil! I had to shorten the "Center Post" by 1mm+ so that I could lower my 3.2mm coil closer to the deck (I'm not sure why they made the center post so long to begin with) Now my coil sticks out about half way above the "Congestion Ring" and it clears the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" just fine.
I noticed that it would vape the first tank just fine, but when I closed the juice Control to refill it was smashing the wicks, because when you close the Juice control, you raise the deck, and there wasn't room to do that with my build. (I'm really surprised the coil didn't short out) There's very little room in the chamber once it's all put together....but that's probably why these things taste so damn good!
It turns out that the smaller diameter in the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" was hitting my wicks and pushing them away from the top of the coil! I had to shorten the "Center Post" by 1mm+ so that I could lower my 3.2mm coil closer to the deck (I'm not sure why they made the center post so long to begin with) Now my coil sticks out about half way above the "Congestion Ring" and it clears the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" just fine.
I noticed that it would vape the first tank just fine, but when I closed the juice Control to refill it was smashing the wicks, because when you close the Juice control, you raise the deck, and there wasn't room to do that with my build. (I'm really surprised the coil didn't short out) There's very little room in the chamber once it's all put together....but that's probably why these things taste so damn good!
I must be the unluckiest person when it comes to Kayfuns. I had this problem with my original KFL as well. So I finally opened my KF4 after Christmas, and I've been struggling with leaking seals. And I can't understand what's causing it. The top and bottom threads where the tank sections attach to the chimney, I get liquid slowly seeping through the threads and past the o ring (the threads where the bottom tank section screws on the chimney, and the top cap threads). I've tried everything. I replaced both O rings with several different o rings. First I replaced them with replacement o rings that came with my KFL, which feel like exactly the same o rings. I had the same issue. Now I've replaced the KFL o rings with o rings that came with my Russian 91%, which actually feel a little different. They're not as tight to screw on to, and feel a little more flexible. Well these o rings work way better, but if I run my finger across the seam, there will always be just a smidgen of juice at the seam. I've tried using the included M-tank instead of the 3 piece tank sections, and it leaks even WORSE with the M-tank.
I don't understand what could be the issue. I've inspected the threads and fit/finish of the tank sections, and while there are disappointingly some rough spots on these threads, there's nothing that looks like it should prevent a seal. I'm stumped. And this is exactly what happened with my KFL when I first got it. It would leak out of the threads of the included M-tank, so I replaced it with the M-tank that came with my R91 and that stopped the leaking.
With these R91 o rings, it works well enough that I can actually use and enjoy the tank, I just need to occasionally dry off the seam. And I've been thoroughly impressed with the performance of this tank. I really don't know what to do, I don't think I should accept this on a $180 atty. I guess I'll just keep trying every single spare o ring I have on hand and see if I eventually get lucky, otherwise I'm going to see how well Svoemesto does with their warranty.
I don't understand what could be the issue. I've inspected the threads and fit/finish of the tank sections, and while there are disappointingly some rough spots on these threads, there's nothing that looks like it should prevent a seal. I'm stumped. And this is exactly what happened with my KFL when I first got it. It would leak out of the threads of the included M-tank, so I replaced it with the M-tank that came with my R91 and that stopped the leaking.
With these R91 o rings, it works well enough that I can actually use and enjoy the tank, I just need to occasionally dry off the seam. And I've been thoroughly impressed with the performance of this tank. I really don't know what to do, I don't think I should accept this on a $180 atty. I guess I'll just keep trying every single spare o ring I have on hand and see if I eventually get lucky, otherwise I'm going to see how well Svoemesto does with their warranty.
So.. 28agw, 7 wraps on a 2.5mm bit, 1.3 Ohms. Playing with juice control, @14W. Back to the 100VG. Turned down JC a bit, gurgling decreased. Suggestions?
There is definitely a learning curve here.
Thanks,
R
There is definitely a learning curve here.
Thanks,
R
Mine got here today, so far no leaking, everything sits flush and tight, even too tight (A9 !!!!!!!).. Sorry to hear about your troubles..
Thanks, man. Update: watched pbusardo's rw for the 5th time, put the coil a bit higher, is better now ,as far as I can tell. Probably too much wick anyhow.
very loud draw, though (again - no reference point. just seems loud).
R
Just accessed the link from the above post, seems I'm not verified.
No option to get verified though?
Where do i click?
Thanks
Help!
I got two dry hits this past week. What causes the liquid to not hit the wick, and yes the juice control is open?
Thanks
P.S. I just got another one took apart and my KGD was split in half under the coil. Any thoughts? Was it too loose?
Thanks
I got two dry hits this past week. What causes the liquid to not hit the wick, and yes the juice control is open?
Thanks
P.S. I just got another one took apart and my KGD was split in half under the coil. Any thoughts? Was it too loose?
Thanks
Last edited:
Thanks both
Nope, a bit loose 2.5mm ID. A noob with a drill bit, so to say.
Don't have ceramic tweezers yet, so I'm working with pliers after heating it up.
Now I have 0.30mm, 6 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 1.4 Ohms with a The O.B. 70/30juice 3mg, trying to get the watts right. Gurgling a bit...
Have to get used to the taste. It's different to to the BVC. Maybe its the KGD..
R
FT has some wire ceramic tweezers cheap, I have a couple of pairs around 6 bucks each if I remember correctly. Only downside is shipping time as usual. Saw some nice ones on Amazon too.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
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