SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[raitizz]

I almost gave up on trying to find a satisfying Ni200 build for my K4. I like 100vg dual Kanthal builds at around 20-30 watts, and I just couldn't get that Vape with this tank.

It turns out that the smaller diameter in the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" was hitting my wicks and pushing them away from the top of the coil! I had to shorten the "Center Post" by 1mm+ so that I could lower my 3.2mm coil closer to the deck (I'm not sure why they made the center post so long to begin with) Now my coil sticks out about half way above the "Congestion Ring" and it clears the top of the "Evaporation Chamber" just fine.

I noticed that it would vape the first tank just fine, but when I closed the juice Control to refill it was smashing the wicks, because when you close the juice control, you raise the deck, and there wasn't room to do that with my build. (I'm really surprised the coil didn't short out) There's very little room in the chamber once it's all put together....but that's probably why these things taste so damn good!

Coil too high and too much wick? The vets will probably explain it better...

Help!
I got two dry hits this past week. What causes the liquid to not hit the wick, and yes the juice control is open?
Thanks

P.S. I just got another one took apart and my KGD was split in half under the coil. Any thoughts? Was it too loose?
Thanks

I got one dry hit an hour ago ( ), because I played wit the wattage and went to see how high can I get with that particular coil. It was a 1.6 on 15W and 100VG, chain vape, all in a noob build.
Too much wick blocks the holes.
Split KGD - too much wick too hot?

FT has some wire ceramic tweezers cheap, I have a couple of pairs around 6 bucks each if I remember correctly. Only downside is shipping time as usual. Saw some nice ones on Amazon too.

Thanks. FT ceramics are already on the way, ordered a few days ago. ~2 weeks to get here.

R

 

[raitizz]

..the other funny thing is - I'll probably will have to fall in love with lung hits on the V4, as I am yet not been able to turn the air control down to a comfortable mouth to lung hit. Yet.

R

 

[BNEAT]

Coil too high and too much wick? The vets will probably explain it better

Coil too big, there for, too high. After I shortened the center post I had room to lower that big coil

...too much wick, pfff. I am the Rayon wicking master!!!

 

[MattB101]

I must be the unluckiest person when it comes to Kayfuns. I had this problem with my original KFL as well. So I finally opened my KF4 after Christmas, and I've been struggling with leaking seals. And I can't understand what's causing it. The top and bottom threads where the tank sections attach to the chimney, I get liquid slowly seeping through the threads and past the o ring (the threads where the bottom tank section screws on the chimney, and the top cap threads). I've tried everything. I replaced both O rings with several different o rings. First I replaced them with replacement o rings that came with my KFL, which feel like exactly the same o rings. I had the same issue. Now I've replaced the KFL o rings with o rings that came with my Russian 91%, which actually feel a little different. They're not as tight to screw on to, and feel a little more flexible. Well these o rings work way better, but if I run my finger across the seam, there will always be just a smidgen of juice at the seam. I've tried using the included M-tank instead of the 3 piece tank sections, and it leaks even WORSE with the M-tank.

I don't understand what could be the issue. I've inspected the threads and fit/finish of the tank sections, and while there are disappointingly some rough spots on these threads, there's nothing that looks like it should prevent a seal. I'm stumped. And this is exactly what happened with my KFL when I first got it. It would leak out of the threads of the included M-tank, so I replaced it with the M-tank that came with my R91 and that stopped the leaking.

With these R91 o rings, it works well enough that I can actually use and enjoy the tank, I just need to occasionally dry off the seam. And I've been thoroughly impressed with the performance of this tank. I really don't know what to do, I don't think I should accept this on a $180 atty. I guess I'll just keep trying every single spare o ring I have on hand and see if I eventually get lucky, otherwise I'm going to see how well Svoemesto does with their warranty.

How well did you clean it when you got it?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[raitizz]

Coil too big, there for, too high. After I shortened the center post I had room to lower that big coil

...too much wick, pfff. I am the Rayon wicking master!!!

..which only means, that when I get the Rayon, I'm gonna bother not only Qorax, but you too

R

 

[Millah]

How well did you clean it when you got it?

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

Thoroughly for several hours. Twice. Which was another disappointment, because the entire base assembly portion was covered in thick grease. I'm obsessive about cleaning my tanks. I also spent hours inspecting and mentally-absorbing the whole assembly and engineering behind the tank before I started using it, which is another thing I also do. I like to have my head fully wrapped around something before using it. I like to understand why something was designed a certain way.

I just think I'm an unlucky ....... when it comes to Kayfuns. I don't think my issues indicate a general problem with the K4, or indicate poor quality. I just think I got unlucky twice now with Kayfun components, lol. I'm sure I'll eventually fix the miniscule leaking thats left. My KFL was easily fixed with just a replacement middle section, so if I can't get this thing fixed on my own I'm going to see how well SM warranties their products. I just needed to vent after spending $180 and expecting zero flaws.

 

[Mtek]

Just scored my second auth from classies, I love this forum. When it gets here I'll be able to build my first ever ni build for the VS. Some of the comments have me thinking this isn't the best unit for a DNA40, but I'm hoping more will chime in with their experience.

 

[Bronze]

Just scored my second auth from classies, I love this forum. When it gets here I'll be able to build my first ever ni build for the VS. Some of the comments have me thinking this isn't the best unit for a DNA40, but I'm hoping more will chime in with their experience.

Give it a shot Mtek.

 

[Mtek]

Give it a shot Mtek.

I will when it arrives, but you all have always walked me through builds. This one may be a train wreck.

 

[Bronze]

I will when it arrives, but you all have always walked me through builds. This one may be a train wreck.

There are a few on here who have built nickel coils so the path has been laid.

 

[sedge]

Just accessed the link from the above post, seems I'm not verified.
No option to get verified though?
Where do i click?

Thanks

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/announcements-news/283955-how-become-verified-member.html

 

[raitizz]

FYI bottom pin problems with KFL and KF4 on P3:

Anyone notice their center pin getting chewed up? My KFL contact pin is grinding away at the P3's center pin. Each time I screw it down, it doesn't just contact it and stop like it did on the 2.5, but instead it keeps turning to compress down a little and as it turns, its eating away at the P3 center pin like an end mill. I polished and smoothed the KFL pin as much as possible, but its still grinding away.

I'm getting a little Moon. I wouldn't categorize it as "chewed up" but there are some grooves on it. I use authentic KFLs. Likely the slot for the screwdriver is acting like an endmill. Perhaps take a small file and touch the edges of that slot a little. Think I'll do the same. Good observation.

Yep, some tiny grooves after a few hours of a KF4 on and off. Same screw/screwdriver slot, like Bronze said.

R

Despite polishing the bottom pin on the KFL and rounding the edges, it still eats away at the P3 slowly. This is because the P3 pin moves down, allowing the pins to rotate after making contact. I think the best solution is to shorten the KFL pin to where it barely contacts the P3, as well as polish it and rounding the edges as much as possible. I can't stand seeing circles and grooves being "machined" into the P3. This is OCD hell.

Sadly, the center pin is not adjustable on the KFL (without a lot of modding). They are on the 3.1's and I believe they are on the K4's but don't quote me on the 4's.

That's how it is with the 510 on a KF4. Sits tight. Have yet not been able to put on the P3 connector and test it, damn shiny thingy is too slippery to hold it tight enough to open the base and put the P3 connector on...(I'm too weak today after spending blood )

View attachment 402437 View attachment 402438

R

Addition - The P3 before cleaning:
View attachment 402477
..and the KF4 bad-boy:
View attachment 402478

It could be possible to polish ALL the sharp edges of the screw with a very fine file...

R

That's with the 510. The P3 connector would use the same screw.

View attachment 402483

Now I've filed the screw a bit with a very fine glass file:

View attachment 402484

Not a thing one wishes to do on the 1st day getting a premium RTA. Will see, if it works.
Gonna post this under Kayfun V4 (etc.) too. This is a concern for me...now.
R

You only see it when you remowe the 510 and the beauty ring.
Its a sharp edge SS screw, tightened and turning, we're talking about here. Definitely a design flaw.

R

 

[raitizz]

Phew... Pliers with tape on 'em, bicycle rubber tube around the V4 base and it gave up... And no gap.



R

 

[MattB101]

Just scored my second auth from classies, I love this forum. When it gets here I'll be able to build my first ever ni build for the VS. Some of the comments have me thinking this isn't the best unit for a DNA40, but I'm hoping more will chime in with their experience.

I'm of the same opinion on the V4 with the DNA40. I think it's the spring that's causing all the trouble. I think it was a mistake on SvoëMesto's part but, in their defense, I don't think they anticipated the DNA40. Works fine with kanthal builds.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[HBcorpse]

Well, SvoëMesto has already said that the KF4 was designed before temp-control builds became a thing...therefore it wasn't intended to run temp-control nickel builds.
I've read several people say they are running it fine, and some people having nightmares with it...
Based on all I've learned in 4.5 years of vaping, and what is available to read on the ECF, I can only conclude that the problems are coming from the DNA boards...
With the successful users posting their exact method, and those methods being followed by others who end up with nightmares, the KF4 doesn't seem to be the actual problem...
But, I don't own any DNA devices, nor do I build with nickel...so this is just my hypothesis.

 

[jaxgator]

Thanks, man. Update: watched pbusardo's rw for the 5th time, put the coil a bit higher, is better now ,as far as I can tell. Probably too much wick anyhow.
very loud draw, though (again - no reference point. just seems loud).

R

Ha! You want to hear a loud draw? Try an Erlk with 2mm posi pole installed and the AFC removed. My KF4 is super quiet compared to that.

Just scored my second auth from classies, I love this forum. When it gets here I'll be able to build my first ever ni build for the VS. Some of the comments have me thinking this isn't the best unit for a DNA40, but I'm hoping more will chime in with their experience.

After I figured out that the KF4 uses the spring for conductivity and changes the resistance depending on whether the JC is open or closed, I haven't had any issues running it in temp mode on my Flask.

Just make sure that your coil is connected very securely. I crank down on the coil mounting screws.

Also, make sure that the JC is in the open position when you put it on the device so that it reads the base resistance properly.

 

[RickCain]

Well, SvoëMesto has already said that the KF4 was designed before temp-control builds became a thing...therefore it wasn't intended to run temp-control nickel builds.
Based on all I've learned in 4.5 years of vaping, and what is available to read on the ECF, I can only conclude that the problems are coming from the DNA boards...
With the successful users posting their exact method, and those methods being followed by others who end up with nightmares, the KF4 doesn't seem to be the actual problem...
But, I don't own any DNA devices, nor do I build with nickel...so this is just my hypothesis.

In my 27+ years of working on electrical circuits, I would never intentionally use a spring and expect a consistent result - I would expect terrible results when moisture is added to the variable. It was a clear flaw/shortcoming in the design to use a spring to carry voltage from one piece of the RTA to another, it is asking for issues.

The DNA40 only exposed it and is not the cause or reason.

My personal view is SM wanted the KF4 to be the most over engineered, or most feature rich, RTA ever developed - mission accomplished. Now that they own that crown they can make a version that works with today's technology [emoji12]

Still happily use my KF4 daily but the spring does limit its use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BNEAT]

In my 27+ years of working on electrical circuits, I would never intentionally use a spring and expect a consistent result - I would expect terrible results when moisture is added to the variable. It was a clear flaw/shortcoming in the design to use a spring to carry voltage from one piece of the RTA to another, it is asking for issues.

The DNA40 only exposed it and is not the cause or reason.

My personal view is SM wanted the KF4 to be the most over engineered, or most feature rich, RTA ever developed - mission accomplished. Now that they own that crown they can make a version that works with today's technology [emoji12]

Still happily use my KF4 daily but the spring does limit its use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See post #2180

 

[HBcorpse]

See post #2180

Could you please link it? My TapaTalk app thinks 2180 is a different post...?
Unless you're talking about the post made by Qorax, saying "Happy 2015 Year of the regulated"...?

 

[qorax]

Could you please link it? My TapaTalk app thinks 2180 is a different post...?
Unless you're talking about the post made by Qorax, saying "Happy 2015 Year of the regulated"...?

This one (post #2180): http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...77-svo-mesto-kayfun-4-a-218.html#post14927810