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jaxgator

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BNEAT

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BNEAT

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I'm loving my Kayfun 4 but having issues with the airflow in that I like a fairly tight draw but over time the airflow screw comes loose and opens up. I think this could be due to opening and closing the juice control but has anyone got any ideas on how to keep the airflow constant?

I tangled a few strands of cotton around the threads on mine, and it snugged it enough to keep it from wondering around. I would like to suggest Teflon plumbers tape around the threads, but I'm not sure how the vape community will react to that: a stray piece of Teflon sticking to your coil surely wouldn't be a good thing.
 

raitizz

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Airflow comes loose.

I'm loving my Kayfun 4 but having issues with the airflow in that I like a fairly tight draw but over time the airflow screw comes loose and opens up. I think this could be due to opening and closing the juice control but has anyone got any ideas on how to keep the airflow constant?

I wanted a tighter draw too, but once I screw the screw in a bit, the draw became louder and kind of wet, I don't know, how to explain, so I just left it wide open, then it's smooth.
Didn't you experience this?

R
 

HBcorpse

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Did another quick build - 28awg Kanthal D, 2.4mm screwdriver, 8 wraps, comes out around 1.4-1.5 Ohms (jumps around on the P3, probably due to condensate in the spring chamber). Quick KGD wick, textbook. Works great, wicks that 100VG well.

R

It would wick that thick 100% VG even better with a 2.8mm coil...
You could do 5-6 wraps of 28awg...bigger diameter coil makes the extra airflow work better.
 

raitizz

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It would wick that thick 100% VG even better with a 2.8mm coil...
You could do 5-6 wraps of 28awg...bigger diameter coil makes the extra airflow work better.

Thanks. My options for a bigger coil would be 2.5 and then 3mm. I'll check that. Haven't tried 3mm yet.
I'd like to be able to adjust the air flow for a tighter draw and for it to be smooth, too.

R
 

RickCain

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See post #2180

yes this is a "workaround" for sure but will still create resistance variances once moisture is introduced and open/closed a few times. My goal is to reduce the amount of connections between the battery and coil.

Point is this is a trade off for having juice control. Since I never close my juice control when filling I vote SM remove this feature which will fix the problem and reduce the height considerably. :)
 

qorax

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yes this is a "workaround" for sure but will still create resistance variances once moisture is introduced and open/closed a few times. My goal is to reduce the amount of connections between the battery and coil.

Point is this is a trade off for having juice control. Since I never close my juice control when filling I vote SM remove this feature which will fix the problem and reduce the height considerably. :)

(1)No juice control. (2)Fill it from the juice inlet holes on the chimney. Yes, ''removable deck while tank's full'' feature remains! (3)No replaceable 510 connectors. But separate deck bases available for P3, Semovar, M20/1 and Nemi. Size 9% reduced. KF4-LITE!
 

macpeace

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Having to send my Provari 3 in for warranty repair. The Red O-ring came off that surrounds the Pin. I tried like hell to get it back on but eventually broke the thing. I think part of the ring goes along the sides of the pin and down into the unit. Sigh... I am wondering if I had this issues because I am using the P3 connector on my Kayfun 4. Anyone else noticing anything strange under their atty? Thanks
 

HBcorpse

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Having to send my Provari 3 in for warranty repair. The Red O-ring came off that surrounds the Pin. I tried like hell to get it back on but eventually broke the thing. I think part of the ring goes along the sides of the pin and down into the unit. Sigh... I am wondering if I had this issues because I am using the P3 connector on my Kayfun 4. Anyone else noticing anything strange under their atty? Thanks

No problems here...
I don't know that it would have anything to do with the KF4 P3 connector...
Not that it isn't possible...just highly unlikely.
With the machining tolerances between Provari and SvoëMesto, you'd be hard pressed to find a problem.
 

BNEAT

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yes this is a "workaround" for sure but will still create resistance variances once moisture is introduced and open/closed a few times. My goal is to reduce the amount of connections between the battery and coil.

Point is this is a trade off for having juice control. Since I never close my juice control when filling I vote SM remove this feature which will fix the problem and reduce the height considerably. :)

I don't see where fewer connections will help anything, as long as they repeat. I guess if you were to use this on a Mech you might be worried about voltage drop, but who does that anymore?

My guess is the whole idea behind the juice control is for the top fill. Every tank I've tried to fill from the top flooded, including the K4 (when the JC was open) so I doubt a company like SmoëMesto would market a tank with top fill without a way to shut off the juice. like I've said before, without the Juice Control, this tank is nothing new at all. The deck and chamber design is same-old same-old.
 

d.g.

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Thanks. My options for a bigger coil would be 2.5 and then 3mm. I'll check that. Haven't tried 3mm yet.
I'd like to be able to adjust the air flow for a tighter draw and for it to be smooth, too.

R

I only use 3mm screwdriver for the last 3 weeks or so and it works great. I use Koh Gen Do to wick it. What I generally do is getting ris of the most one or two layers of the cotton, then cut 2 thin strips. I learned this from qorax and basically by using this method you have 4 cotton tips right on top of 4 juice channels and it wicks perfectly.
For the last week or so I have been using 100% VG only - no dry hits or anything. My airflow is not loose but not too tight neither. I do not know how to explain it:) All I can say is you can't lung inhale it the way I use it.

The only problem I have at this moment is that Boba's Bounty basically kills the coil so quickly. Seriously, you can't even rewick it without changing the coils every 5-10ml or so. I had a 50/50 pg vg where I had to rewick it every 15ml and build a new coil every 30ml or so.
 

MattB101

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I only use 3mm screwdriver for the last 3 weeks or so and it works great. I use Koh Gen Do to wick it. What I generally do is getting ris of the most one or two layers of the cotton, then cut 2 thin strips. I learned this from qorax and basically by using this method you have 4 cotton tips right on top of 4 juice channels and it wicks perfectly.
For the last week or so I have been using 100% VG only - no dry hits or anything. My airflow is not loose but not too tight neither. I do not know how to explain it:) All I can say is you can't lung inhale it the way I use it.

The only problem I have at this moment is that Boba's Bounty basically kills the coil so quickly. Seriously, you can't even rewick it without changing the coils every 5-10ml or so. I had a 50/50 pg vg where I had to rewick it every 15ml and build a new coil every 30ml or so.

Something isn't right. No matter what you're vaping it should last longer than that.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

Junny89

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Ok so my k4 is really annoying me at the moment.
Rebuilt it yesterday with a new coil etc new ... cotton.
Now it just keeps leaking from the air flow holes. initially i thought i had used less cotton. Put a new wick in, still leaking. So i rewicked it again, same issue.
So again this morning i took the old wick out and did it again. Followed Qorax steps exactly, frayed at the edges etc and felt my pocket was wet. It all leaked. Tried vaping it, tank was flooded.
I haven't played around with the juice control or anything, no slight movements either.

I have no idea why. It's so annoying coz all i want to do is vape with out leaks!!

Any ideas why this is happening??

Coil is 2.5mm id, 1.3ohm. With authentic ... cotton.
 

qorax

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Ok so my k4 is really annoying me at the moment.
Rebuilt it yesterday with a new coil etc new ... cotton.
Now it just keeps leaking from the air flow holes. initially i thought i had used less cotton. Put a new wick in, still leaking. So i rewicked it again, same issue.
So again this morning i took the old wick out and did it again. Followed Qorax steps exactly, frayed at the edges etc and felt my pocket was wet. It all leaked. Tried vaping it, tank was flooded.
I haven't played around with the juice control or anything, no slight movements either.

I have no idea why. It's so annoying coz all i want to do is vape with out leaks!!

Any ideas why this is happening??

Coil is 2.5mm id, 1.3ohm. With authentic ... cotton.

Preface:
1. I'm sure you're keeping the JC closed while refilling from top.
2. I hope you're not using the 4S kit, or AFC bolt isn't completely out.
3. I'm sure you're not moving between different altitudes.
4. Neither moving frequently between different temp. zones.
5. Hope you've removed the base connector and wiped off the juice before re-wicking.

Reason:
As you're saying that your tails are frayed so flooding from the deck's juice holes could be negated. That leaves us with two possible causes. (1)Poor density of cotton inside the coil (aka less cotton). Which is leaving behind un-atomized juice after your draws - and that extra wicking is slowly dropping juice down the base's air channel. Or (2)You're vaping at low wattages vis-a-vis the resistance. Which is doing the same error - i.e. leaving excess juice behind.

Bottomline:
Your case seems to be of "over-wicking w.r.t. atomization".
 

Junny89

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Preface:
1. I'm sure you're keeping the JC closed while refilling from top. (yep)
2. I hope you're not using the 4S kit, or AFC bolt isn't completely out. (nope)
3. I'm sure you're not moving between different altitudes.(nope)
4. Neither moving frequently between different temp. zones. (nope)
5. Hope you've removed the base connector and wiped off the juice before re-wicking. (always do this)

Reason:
As you're saying that your tails are frayed so flooding from the deck's juice holes could be negated. That leaves us with two possible causes. (1)Poor density of cotton inside the coil (aka less cotton). Which is leaving behind un-atomized juice after your draws - and that extra wicking is slowly dropping juice down the base's air channel. Or (2)You're vaping at low wattages vis-a-vis the resistance. Which is doing the same error - i.e. leaving excess juice behind.

Bottomline:
Your case seems to be of "over-wicking w.r.t. atomization".

So i should try using more wick? Will try it again...was getting dry hits as i used too much cotton before. So before i left i cut a bit off each end. Got to work and it started leaking.
 

qorax

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So i should try using more wick? Will try it again...was getting dry hits as i used too much cotton before. So before i left i cut a bit off each end. Got to work and it started leaking.

With cotton remember that "not too tight - not too loose" is the key. When you insert cotton into the micro coil you should have some resistance. It should not be free flowing. And once you feel the resistance just move it back & forth a couple of times so that the cotton sits nicely and softly inside the coil.
 
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