SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[jaxgator]

What upsets me that i c'ant make it work right (kayfun V4) with Ni200 on my dna 40 box mod. I have built the coil perfect, in all possible ways.
I set 16 Watts, but when i push the fire button, after a secound or two, the watts jump at 39, and then i got a very hot vape, and stay there for a 1-2 sec, then returns to the set value, 16 W and stay there for the rest of puff.
With Kanthal, works great.
With V4A SS (AISI 316L) works excelent (better taste, IMO), but noticed that coil is constant change -0,25 <-> +0,25 ohm.

HBcorpse is correct stating that the KF4 was designed prior to the introduction of TP vaping. Unfortunately, they used a spring in their conductivity path that can cause issues.

I am one of the people HBcorpse mentions that isn't having any issues with the KF4 using TP. Here's what I've found: Since Ni200 is super low resistance, it is very sensitive. All connection points must be very secure. This includes the coil mounts, the 510 connection and with the KF4, the spring compression (JC fully opened). I really tighten down my leads as much as possible, make sure that my 510 is tightened properly into the atty and that my JC is wide open. I don't know if this matters or not but I have my AFC screw completely removed as well.

dwcraig1 has created a fix for the spring issue that he posted in the KF4 clone thread. He is using a piece of brass tubing in place of the spring. It is just long enough so that it makes the connection only when the JC is in the open position I believe.

The DNA40 is designed so that it will reach within 100 degrees of your temperature setting within 1-2 seconds. It does this with a boost function. From my experience, if you are getting a very hot vape, this would indicate one of a couple things; hot leg and/or coil, or poor wicking. I have found spaced coils to perform much better than compressed coils. With compressed coils, I was getting exactly as you described; that very hot vape. After switching over to spaced coils and dry buring them prior to wicking, I no longer get the very hot vape.

 

[RickCain]

What upsets me that i c'ant make it work right (Kayfun V4) with Ni200 on my DNA 40 box mod. I have built the coil perfect, in all possible ways.
I set 16 Watts, but when i push the fire button, after a secound or two, the watts jump at 39, and then i got a very hot vape, and stay there for a 1-2 sec, then returns to the set value, 16 W and stay there for the rest of puff.
With Kanthal, works great.
With V4A SS (AISI 316L) works excelent (better taste, IMO), but noticed that coil is constant change -0,25 +0,25 ohm.

Join the club

The spring is killing the performance when used with a device that is reading the resistance very quickly - mainly temp control mode.

One person (BNEAT) here made a sleeve to remove the need for a spring as well as a guy on YouTube is creating a modified post that will not use a spring.

Personally I don't think removing the spring will make it rock solid since there are still far too many points of connection (each one is a source of failure)

Give it some time and we should see some aftermarket fixes to help make it more likely to work in temp control mode. Meanwhile enjoy the excellent performance with kanthal.

Edit: for those who think SM made this before TC and is the reason for not fishing it, I call BS. SM is clearly smart enough to know better than relying on a spring to pass voltage from one point to another. I am already seeing fried springs posted on the internet which leads me to believe the problem isn't solely a DNA40 problem. A >.5 ohm Kanthal coil with a resistance problem will take out the weakest link - the spring.

Vape it at 1.5ohm with 15 watts and you'll never see the weakness. Run it hard and the failure points become more obvious.


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[dwcraig1]

The resistance displayed on the screen is the standing resistance (not fired) when you fire it that same ohm reading stays on the screen but it is actually changing quite drastically as the nickel heats. The spring while not under load appears OK but when loaded the resistance varies a lot causing the board to apply more voltage.

 

[MattB101]

It seems that there is a prejudice against using the words SvoëMesto and poor design in the same sentence but, I think from reading the posts here that use of the spring in the connection path was a mistake. Everybody makes them and if SvoëMesto stays true to form any "errors" in design will be corrected very quickly.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[MattB101]

That said is is eminently usable in the configuration and within the specs stated in the instructions.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

 

[AngiBe]

Heya Ang...
If you wouldn't mind listing all those differences you find, I feel it would be beneficial to those of us who wish to avoid the clones and counterfeits...
I know some others don't mind buying the clones, but I'm pretty sure nobody supports the counterfeits, as we've all basically stated that those are theft.
I would also like to invite anyone else who has an authentic and non-authentic to list the differences they notice.
Even though clones are supposed to be 1:1 copies, I know sometimes they are definite changes made.
For example, the EHPro KFL+ V2 has two air holes and two "control" screws on the bottom. While that is a beneficial change (for some), other differences might be detrimental to its performance.

No problem and will do. Unfortunatley, I don't own an authentic yet. But I'm taking a ton of pics/video on this counterfeit and will post. At least with this one I have, I can play around with different builds and stuff since this is my very first "Kayfun"

 

[raitizz]

It seems that there is a prejudice against using the words SvoëMesto and poor design in the same sentence but, I think from reading the posts here that use of the spring in the connection path was a mistake. Everybody makes them and if SvoëMesto stays true to form any "errors" in design will be corrected very quickly.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

I'd say the sharp-edged SS bottom screw eating away brass connection pins of devices is also a small, but a design flaw (had some posts about it).

R

 

[RickCain]

It seems that there is a prejudice against using the words SvoëMesto and poor design in the same sentence but, I think from reading the posts here that use of the spring in the connection path was a mistake. Everybody makes them and if SvoëMesto stays true to form any "errors" in design will be corrected very quickly.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!

You are mistaking prejudice and constructive criticism. I don't think there is one person in this thread that doesn't like the KF4, including me.

If this was SM first attempt at a RTA it would be one thing but this isn't their first rodeo. While it is true that the DNA40 wasn't out before it release, the need for more airflow and ability to run at a lower resistance was (hence a S4 kit). With a lower ohm build comes higher current which will exploit any weakness in the path. Just so happens more people are buying this to put on DNA40 device than the guys that will run >.5 ohm builds.

Do I wish the KF4 didn't utilize a spring to pass positive voltage? Hell yes! Does that mean it is a POS? Hell no!


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[RickCain]

Heya Ang...
If you wouldn't mind listing all those differences you find, I feel it would be beneficial to those of us who wish to avoid the clones and counterfeits...
I know some others don't mind buying the clones, but I'm pretty sure nobody supports the counterfeits, as we've all basically stated that those are theft.
I would also like to invite anyone else who has an authentic and non-authentic to list the differences they notice.
Even though clones are supposed to be 1:1 copies, I know sometimes they are definite changes made.
For example, the EHPro KFL+ V2 has two air holes and two "control" screws on the bottom. While that is a beneficial change (for some), other differences might be detrimental to its performance.

I'm not Ang but can add some color to the differences as I have the both a real one and Topeco clone.

Finish - hands down the clones are not nearly as smooth as the real thing. From five foot away it isn't noticeable but up close they are.

Tolerance/Fit - the clone wobbles more than the real thing. Upon closer inspection of the internals there are shortcuts on the quality of metals used. Close the juice control and it feels like it will come apart. Threading is much much much smoother in the real one.

Vape quality - It will pass any blind vape test IMHO

I always buy a clone of any RDA/RTA that I really like and use them while traveling and for all outdoor activities. There is nothing worse than destroying a 200 tank out in the desert or worse yet TSA decide they want to keep mine.




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[Mtek]

Don't blame you and I've learned a big lesson. My next K4 will only be purchased by Authorized dealers. I'm going to take pics of my counterfeit (seller refunded me a bunch of money to clone price-I wanted to keep it just to play around with it till I can get an authentic) and write down all the differences I can find between the counterfeit and the authentic.

The packaging is super close, but have found a few differences already just by checking out YT and pictures over the net. Unfortunately, many of these differences I wouldn't have been able to tell without having this one in my hands.

I have a ton of pics and notes too, and an auth, it will be interesting to see what you find.

 

[Eric in NJ]

Heya Ang...
If you wouldn't mind listing all those differences you find, I feel it would be beneficial to those of us who wish to avoid the clones and counterfeits...
I know some others don't mind buying the clones, but I'm pretty sure nobody supports the counterfeits, as we've all basically stated that those are theft.
I would also like to invite anyone else who has an authentic and non-authentic to list the differences they notice.
Even though clones are supposed to be 1:1 copies, I know sometimes they are definite changes made.
For example, the EHPro KFL+ V2 has two air holes and two "control" screws on the bottom. While that is a beneficial change (for some), other differences might be detrimental to its performance.

I just got the Ephro Kayfun v4 clone and that thing is a pile of shiz. The top cap you remove to fill the tank has no flat spots for air to escape after filling so it floods, the drip tip is plastic or delrin unlike the authentic which is ss, I can't get a stable ohm reading with nickel or kanthal with the clone, every pull is really hot and the power seems to spike up and down. The bottom square nut that is pressed into the insulator seems to be jammed and I can't get the insulator out. The nut came out but the insulator just will not come out to fully get the bottom disassembled. The clone has a strong taste of machine oil even after two soaks in alcohol and two warm water bath's. Its now a Kayfun paper weight.

 

[Monotremata]

I'm not Ang but can add some color to the differences as I have the both a real one and Topeco clone.

Finish - hands down the clones are not nearly as smooth as the real thing. From five foot away it isn't noticeable but up close they are.

Tolerance/Fit - the clone wobbles more than the real thing. Upon closer inspection of the internals there are shortcuts on the quality of metals used. Close the juice control and it feels like it will come apart. Threading is much much much smoother in the real one.

Vape quality - It will pass any blind vape test IMHO

I always buy a clone of any RDA/RTA that I really like and use them while traveling and for all outdoor activities. There is nothing worse than destroying a 200 tank out in the desert or worse yet TSA decide they want to keep mine.




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For the wobbling JC, check the inside of the JC where the 510 goes in. There are two circular threaded pieces under the spring that hold the pin. If you take the 510 out its possible it can push these pieces up and it won't actually thread in. My Tobeco got the gap and wobbling after I messed with it, because of this. I took it apart the other night and those two pieces just fell out, the whole time my 510 was just sitting there floating (hence some minor ohm fluctuations as well). Tightened it all back up and now the wobbling is gone!

EDIT: I finally got the parts diagram.. It was part #s 9 and 10/11 that came off mine just to clarify.

 

[AngiBe]

I haven't even opened the package yet but trying to give people help that pay for authentic but get counterfeit and try to recognize it BEFORE they open the box or buy it. If someone wants a clone and knowingly buys one, that's their choice.

I'm talking about wanting to buy an authentic and get a counterfeit- big difference. Here's some pics of the packaging:

From what I can tell through tons of vids and pictures I have gone through on the net and very HARD to tell unless you have it in your hands, the sticker on this counterfeit unlike authentic is NOT a hologram/holographic. If anyone has an authentic and your sticker is not a hologram, please post. All the authentics I've seen on the net seem to be holograms

And the counterfeits even have this:

But they do NOT have (at least not the one that I got) a hologram sticker on the side of the box w/SvoeMesto logo and serial number. Also, I sent pictures from the classie ad when I bought it, both packaged like my pictures and opened to SvoeMesto and VaperRev (separate emails) Both said I got a counterfeit. Neither said what tipped them off (which irritated me).

 

[Mtek]

Heya Ang...
If you wouldn't mind listing all those differences you find, I feel it would be beneficial to those of us who wish to avoid the clones and counterfeits...
I know some others don't mind buying the clones, but I'm pretty sure nobody supports the counterfeits, as we've all basically stated that those are theft.
I would also like to invite anyone else who has an authentic and non-authentic to list the differences they notice.
Even though clones are supposed to be 1:1 copies, I know sometimes they are definite changes made.
For example, the EHPro KFL+ V2 has two air holes and two "control" screws on the bottom. While that is a beneficial change (for some), other differences might be detrimental to its performance.

HB, I've got pics and notes I will put together and share too. I'm sure others may pick up on some diff things than I. Maybe in the next day or so I'll put together a post. This is important as those who don't have an auth may not ever know the differences, but they are apparent in both looks, feel, and even function. I don't have time today, but I'll post something up and I hope others do too.

 

[BNEAT]

My authentic didn't come shrink-wrapped. Are they coming that way now?

 

[Mtek]

Authentic Svoemesto sticker from first batch. Very thin sticker that doesn't stick well, it has cuts built in, designed to tear and be destroyed very easily... Box not shrink wrapped.

 

[AngiBe]

My authentic didn't come shrink-wrapped. Are they coming that way now?

LOLOL...remember, mine is a counterfeit. I asked several times on here before I knew that if anyone got an authentic shrink wrapped. I never got a reply so I took it as no.

 

[AngiBe]

Mtek...is that stick a hologram?

 

[jaxgator]

You are mistaking prejudice and constructive criticism. I don't think there is one person in this thread that doesn't like the KF4, including me.

If this was SM first attempt at a RTA it would be one thing but this isn't their first rodeo. While it is true that the DNA40 wasn't out before it release, the need for more airflow and ability to run at a lower resistance was (hence a S4 kit). With a lower ohm build comes higher current which will exploit any weakness in the path. Just so happens more people are buying this to put on DNA40 device than the guys that will run >.5 ohm builds.

Do I wish the KF4 didn't utilize a spring to pass positive voltage? Hell yes! Does that mean it is a POS? Hell no!

Now that you put it that way, you are absolutely correct and I fully agree. SM should have known better than to use a spring for conductivity regardless of whether they designed it before or after the introduction of the DNA40. Although, I am suspecting that that is the only way that they could figure out how to implement JC.

But they do NOT have (at least not the one that I got) a hologram sticker on the side of the box w/SvoeMesto logo and serial number. Also, I sent pictures from the classie ad when I bought it, both packaged like my pictures and opened to SvoeMesto and VaperRev (separate emails) Both said I got a counterfeit. Neither said what tipped them off (which irritated me).

Yours didn't but I have read in the KF4 clone thread where others have received a clone with a serial number sticker on the outside of the box.

 

[Moonbogg]

I haven't even opened the package yet but trying to give people help that pay for authentic but get counterfeit and try to recognize it BEFORE they open the box or buy it. If someone wants a clone and knowingly buys one, that's their choice.

I'm talking about wanting to buy an authentic and get a counterfeit- big difference. Here's some pics of the packaging:

From what I can tell through tons of vids and pictures I have gone through on the net and very HARD to tell unless you have it in your hands, the sticker on this counterfeit unlike authentic is NOT a hologram/holographic. If anyone has an authentic and your sticker is not a hologram, please post. All the authentics I've seen on the net seem to be holograms

And the counterfeits even have this:

But they do NOT have (at least not the one that I got) a hologram sticker on the side of the box w/SvoeMesto logo and serial number. Also, I sent pictures from the classie ad when I bought it, both packaged like my pictures and opened to SvoeMesto and VaperRev (separate emails) Both said I got a counterfeit. Neither said what tipped them off (which irritated me).

Sorry if I missed it, but where did you buy your supposedly authentic K4? You emailed VapeRev, did you buy from them?