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HBcorpse

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I'm dyslexic as hell, so it took me some time to get the juice control orientation, even with the Busardo video (SV should pay Phil for making a training video on their product).

So once I stopped dumping juice through my airholes, it took me several builds to figure out that small diameter microcoils won't work in this device. Finally went to 2.8mm ID with .28g kanthal with 7 wraps - comes out to 1.5ohm juiced and it finally works as advertised.

Like my Orchid V4, there is a learning curve on what builds work, and this rebuildable is definitely a challenge to get used to initially. Still working on flavor, its a little more muted that my Kayfun 3.1's and the Kanger Mini with the OCC 1+ ohm heads still beat the flavorpants off the Kayfun V4, but, I also find the Kanger Mini can sometimes be too "juicy" if that makes sense - its almost like its spitting unatomized juice up the chimney somehow.

Got a reliable build formula, now working on flavor improvement.

My flavor is great, and the only thing I've done differently than you is: 5 wraps instead of 7...
That puts me at about 1.3 ohms, and I run that at 10 watts on my P3...it is a flavor volcano!
 

BraveNewWorld

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Been running 26ga, 8 wraps for about 1.2ohms at 14-16 watts. It seems to produce more vapor than my standard 28ga build and this one seems to provide a more full mouth to lung inhale. This has more airflow than the KFL, and I think this larger, more powerful build fills the volume better.

what is your ID with the 26 g 1.2ohms? I used 26 g thinking the same concept as you did with respect to the airflow and a higher g build but i think my ID was too small so i went back to 28 g at 3mm ID for the time being until i thought about it a little more.
 

Light Seeker

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it took me several builds to figure out that small diameter microcoils won't work in this device. Finally went to 2.8mm ID with .28g kanthal with 7 wraps - comes out to 1.5ohm juiced and it finally works as advertised.

Hmmmm .... very interesting.
I've been using a 14 gauge loc-luer needle to build 8 or 9 wraps of 28g kanthal, this needle size is 2.1mm od. Been wicking with rayon. Have had no dry hits, no wicking issues, plenty of taste & vape .... all in all, a very satisfactory experience.

Yet a quick read, seems most are wrapping larger coils.

Guess I'll have to try a 2.8 coil next build, see if it improves flavor. Not sure how though, I'm a happy camper now.:p
 

Moonbogg

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what is your ID with the 26 g 1.2ohms? I used 26 g thinking the same concept as you did with respect to the airflow and a higher g build but i think my ID was too small so i went back to 28 g at 3mm ID for the time being until i thought about it a little more.

Right around 2.5mm using a screw driver. I go for 1ohm with 8 wraps but it always comes out higher. No dry hits and works well at the higher wattages.

Also, I have the airflow screw installed. Its opened all the way, but I leave it in because when I had it out the draw was a little too loose for a decent mouth to lung. Having it in provides a better mouth to lung air flow IMO.
 

kas122461

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Angibe was not kidding about getting this V4 apart, what a pain, that last piece, had to be frozen before I got it apart, and the little Part number C33 nut that holds the chimney on was also stuck. I am cleaning it now, looks like building on it, is going to have to wait till tomorrow, but I have one now! :)

KAS
 

AngiBe

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Angibe was not kidding about getting this V4 apart, what a pain, that last piece, had to be frozen before I got it apart, and the little Part number C33 nut that holds the chimney on was also stuck. I am cleaning it now, looks like building on it, is going to have to wait till tomorrow, but I have one now! :)

KAS

DAYUM straight! It was a bear getting those two specific pieces apart. Seriously thought I was gonna chuck it out the window! Glad you got it and can't wait to hear what you think.

I just had to play around for like 10-15 mins to properly take the deck out to rewick and made a slight mess. Seems these rotating/moving parts like to stick on occasion so I'm slowly learning not to accidentally over tighten anything. Had a few dry hits on the rewick (OUCH..not fun) so this has been a learning curve since I've never had a Kayfun.

Vaping good now tho.
 

Randall.K

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HBcorpse

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Mtek

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It's really too bad they don't ship to the U.S.!!!!

Cloud9 and Intaste will have them soon I think bud.

I plan to pair the long chimney with a threaded "slim mode" tank. Also, hope they come out with a diff juice control ring...just because I think it could be done a bit nicer.

A lot of engineering went into this, I kind of think it was planned as they want to sell accessories that even clone buyers can get. Kind of like Zen works on zna clones. Perhaps they will continue to release diff designed pieces.
 

Kaoself

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Intaste are bound to have the new accessories soon. Yes, I just had a look with the intent to order.

I wonder how it will wick in 6.5ml mode, it looks as though the extended chimney section just sits on top of the standard evaporation chamber.
Like some others, I find wicking is better as the juice level depletes. That scored SS tank section looks horrible though, but I'm looking forward to some more quality after market KF4 accessories.
 

HBcorpse

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CAN ANYONE TELL ME, RIGHT NOW, WHY THE KF4 CHIMNEY WON'T WORK ON THE KFL?
(Also tell me how to take my CAPS lock off! :wink: )
What I mean is, I've got mine threaded on a KFL base right now...and it fits...
So what would keep it from functioning?
It's essentially the same as the KF4, just minus the Juice Control...right?
 

HBcorpse

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Kfl barrel is part of the chimney, v4 isn't? Is airflow the issue?

I don't know...I'm still pondering it.
Although I can already see that bottom filling would be out of the question...
Needle tip filling through the KF4 chimney holes would be the route to take, but not sure if removing the chimney/tank assembly would function the same as removing it from the KF4...
I mean, the juice control is open when you take the chimney/tank assembly off, and there's no need to plug any air holes to avoid flooding...so wouldn't the same go for doing that with the KF4 chim/tank on a KFL base/deck?

I guess the only way to tell is to sacrifice some juice/time cleaning parts if it leaks/floods...
P.S. I'm also having this conversation in the KFL thread, in case anyone notices the dual posts...
 

HBcorpse

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UMMMM...
While Googling all this, and a few other KFL related things...I came across this little gem of an idea...this person was talking about threaded chimney tops, screwing into the top cap, and mentioned this crazy (but seemingly feasible) idea...
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1423721030.411145.jpg

The chimney on a KFL is/can be used as a JUICE CONTROL???
Holy SHET!!!!
 

Kaoself

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Hmm, the KF3.1 / L chimney section screws down and rotates as the top cap is screwed on, so something needs to be done to make the threads stiffer, or a kind of thin steel ring that screws onto the deck with a couple of bits sticking up to create a gap. Would an adjustable reverse threaded ring under the KFL / 3.1 chimney section work?

The major issue I see is that regardless of how much the horizontal juice channels are exposed, the limiting factor to juice flow are the vertical channels. Raising the chimney section will still have the same circumference around the vertical juice channels, and thus the same juice flow to the deck.

I suppose one could dremel out the vertical channels on an angle, so that they were deeper the more they were exposed by the chimney?
 
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HBcorpse

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Hmm, the KF3.1 / L chimney section screws down and rotates as the top cap is screwed on, so something needs to be done to make the threads stiffer, or a kind of thin steel ring that screws onto the deck with a couple of bits sticking up to create a gap. Would an adjustable reverse threaded ring under the KFL / 3.1 chimney section work?

The major issue I see is that regardless of how much the horizontal juice channels are exposed, the limiting factor to juice flow are the vertical channels. Raising the chimney section will still have the same circumference around the vertical juice channels, and thus the same juice flow to the deck.

I suppose one could dremel out the vertical channels on an angle, so that they were deeper the more they were exposed by the chimney?

Precisely what I was thinking...
But, as that quoted/screenshot is from another forum, I was able to read the rest of their conversation about this...
The general consensus seems to be that it WILL and DOES work as a means of allowing more juice to the wick...which does seem to go against our normal thinking.
I guess, until trying it, I will have no actual proof. However, I can imagine it would work very well for high VG juices...
 
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