SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4
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I am thinking ~ should I rebuild my K4 with Ni200 or not
Yeah, but try to stay classy - find some toothpicks.
R
I'll decide for you. Do it!
I knew it... Knew that the General will be giving me some backup support
lol True.
Have you done a Ni200 build on the KF4 yet, qorax? I can't remember.
Have you done a Ni200 build on the KF4 yet, qorax? I can't remember.
Not yet. Was thinking ~ and Bronze's support might see me doing it tonight!
I knew it... Knew that the General will be giving me some backup support
Gotta have some fun, right?
Or rather, should I revisit one of my KFLs / R91s with a Ni build? They are collecting dust for a while now
Or rather, should I revisit one of my KFLs / R91s with a Ni build? They are collecting dust for a while now
I say go with the K4. Many people have tried and failed/struggled with the K4. Maybe, just maybe you can uncover some of the mysteries.
Nah brother. Those are 2mm ~ I've since graduated to 2.4mm
Ah, that's too bad. The wood added an element of austerity. Rip toothpick and welcome the industrialized, mechanical screwdriver.
I say go with the K4. Many people have tried and failed/struggled with the K4. Maybe, just maybe you can uncover some of the mysteries.
Good call. If you can nail a build and how-to, you would be helping many with the V4.
I am thinking ~ should I rebuild my K4 with Ni200 or not
As long as you remember that the K4 wasn't designed with Ni200 builds in mind...
I know some folks have had great success with them, but it seems like those are isolated cases.
Or rather, should I revisit one of my KFLs / R91s with a Ni build? They are collecting dust for a while now
I gave them several tries, when they work they work PERFECT for about a day.... Then something goes wonky in that adjustable screw and no bueno.
Neither the erlkonigin or the kfl were but they work...
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I have had absolutely no problem at all with the K4 and Ni200. Back a bit I expressed the same hesitancy as others, likely in the dna 40, NR, Nickel Builds Thread). Jumped in, with the experience building Ni200 I already had, and built without any preconceived notions.
@qorax: I would jump immediately to 3 mm. And as an initial test use KGD. (I know how much you love rayon and have perfected your cut away wick technique
.)(1) Cut a piece of KGD about 2.5 mm thick,
(2) as usual remove the two stiff facings,
(3) twist the end and insert.
(4) If you feel there's too much wick, pinch a bit off.
(5) As usual, there should be slight tension when pulling the KGD through the coil but not so much that the wraps deform. (No need for "double-insertion.
) Good luck!
@junny89 and anyone else afraid of the K4 spring: Although the upper part of the base (parts14-24) seems to fit the lower (parts 1-11) in two ways it is like best to try both ways to see whether one screws down more smoothly. Thus, trial and error on this point may have a payoff. IOW screw the upper parts down (part way) notice how smooth the JC plate goes down to its resting point. If not smooth try the other direction.
I've been using a black Tobeco clone with ni200 since I got it and have had no issues with it. The resistance can fluctuate a bit when you close the JC to refill but it's usually within .01Ω if not spot on when you open the JC again. I think I'm on my 4th or 5th tank and the coil is working great.
No resistance fluctuation for me KTMRider.
That was the first thing I checked after watching a ridiculous YouTube video where the resistance varied by 0.70, or more. (Bad clone I am certain.) A search on that reference would help to locate my earlier post on this subject. (All three DNA 40 threads I post to show up in my search, but I know I spoke to this issue.)
ETA: post # 3708 begins my K4 experience, # 5898 continues with a follow up at post # 6014
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