SvoёMesto KAYFUN 4

[tchavei]

Well the truth is that when a spring connection is well designed, it should work well even if the current goes through it.

There are hundreds of heavy duty spring connectors out there that rely on the spring itself pass current and they work no?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheoGR]

Hey guys I need your help... I have the kayfun 4 but I am having some troubles... First of all I have tried many builds, all the same 28awg kanthal, 1,6ohm with Koh Gen Doh. I have tried putting a lot of cotton, I have tried putting a little bit but it's always the same.
First 20-30 puffs are awesome... But then the flavor gets kinda muted. Not a dry hit, it just loses the flavor it had in the beginning. This happens with every e-liquid I have tried.

Also, is it normal to see air bubbles only from one side when you open the liquid channels?
Thank you

 

[Kaoself]

What's your coil diameter and wick length, Theo?
Most people find a larger ID coil such as 2.4mm-3mm works best in the KF4. Generally larger diameter than previous KF's due to the larger diameter centre post. I personally use 3mm coils.
Wick length i find about 3mm-4mm beyond the congestion ring works for me. I have rounded shoulders on my wicks, so if you stuff yours down a bit more, you may want to cut your wicks a little shorter.

 

[dems86]

What's your coil diameter and wick length, Theo?
Most people find a larger ID coil such as 2.4mm-3mm works best in the KF4. Generally larger diameter than previous KF's due to the larger diameter centre post. I personally use 3mm coils.
Wick length i find about 3mm-4mm beyond the congestion ring works for me. I have rounded shoulders on my wicks, so if you stuff yours down a bit more, you may want to cut your wicks a little shorter.

I learned a great trick for the rounded shoulders and making sure the ends of the wick hit the juice channels.

Take a really small hex or allen key and place it underneath the wick right next to coil. Then slowly lift it up until you can't point the wick end straight down at the channels.

Works wonderfully and reminds me of Designing Women, from a time when wimmenz loved their big, bulky shoulder pads

 

[stanleybb50]

Hey guys I need your help... I have the kayfun 4 but I am having some troubles... First of all I have tried many builds, all the same 28awg kanthal, 1,6ohm with Koh Gen Doh. I have tried putting a lot of cotton, I have tried putting a little bit but it's always the same.
First 20-30 puffs are awesome... But then the flavor gets kinda muted. Not a dry hit, it just loses the flavor it had in the beginning. This happens with every e-liquid I have tried.

Also, is it normal to see air bubbles only from one side when you open the liquid channels?
Thank you

Is yours authentic or clone? Think you're getting enough juice (wicking well?) When running "close to dry" the flavor starts to get muted, but still puts put vapor.

And I believe that's pretty normal on the bubbles due to the fact that the bubbles only have those extra 6 holes in the chimney piece to come out of. So they collect and then peek out from one hole/side.

That's how I see it at least.


-Sent via Tapatalk

 

[Kaoself]

I learned a great trick for the rounded shoulders and making sure the ends of the wick hit the juice channels.

Take a really small hex or allen key and place it underneath the wick right next to coil. Then slowly lift it up until you can't point the wick end straight down at the channels.

Works wonderfully and reminds me of Designing Women, from a time when wimmenz loved their big, bulky shoulder pads

That's what I do! I use a small screwdriver to make sure the centre for the wicks lift as I push the ends towards the coil and down towards the juice holes.

 

[thmstwwng]

I learned a great trick for the rounded shoulders and making sure the ends of the wick hit the juice channels.

Take a really small hex or allen key and place it underneath the wick right next to coil. Then slowly lift it up until you can't point the wick end straight down at the channels.

Works wonderfully and reminds me of Designing Women, from a time when wimmenz loved their big, bulky shoulder pads

I normally place the wick in place (with shoulder) before screwing in the 'congestion ring'.

 

[thmstwwng]

My authentic K4 resistance fluctuate a lot according to my P3! When JC close I get 1.52. When open I get 1.42. As I vape along the day, the 1.42 will increase. Sometimes when I get too high resistance reading, I just close open close open the JC until I get 1.4x.
Another weird thing that happen when I swap a new spring (spare kit 1), I get higher resistance reading when JC is close than open. I took out the new spring and use back the old ones.

 

[qorax]

I normally place the wick in place (with shoulder) before screwing in the 'congestion ring'.

That's how I did it with KFLs / R91s. Not anymore with the K4. Imho K4 works better with a bit more and fluffed up wick tails ~ thus 'pushing' the tails down after the chamber well / ring is placed seems to be a better method for many of us. YMMV.

 

[raitizz]

I learned a great trick for the rounded shoulders and making sure the ends of the wick hit the juice channels.
Take a really small hex or allen key and place it underneath the wick right next to coil. Then slowly lift it up until you can't point the wick end straight down at the channels.
Works wonderfully and reminds me of Designing Women, from a time when wimmenz loved their big, bulky shoulder pads

That's what I do! I use a small screwdriver to make sure the centre for the wicks lift as I push the ends towards the coil and down towards the juice holes.

That's how I did it with KFLs / R91s. Not anymore with the K4. Imho K4 works better with a bit more and fluffed up wick tails ~ thus 'pushing' the tails down after the chamber well / ring is placed seems to be a better method for many of us. YMMV.

I do that too on the V4 - take the smallest drill-bit, push up, then bend down the wick to the holes.

On aside note, a question to you KFL+ users - what's your preffered build? I cleaned and built my KFL+ clown last night, turned out OK on the first shot, but fine-tuning in build, build height, wicking definitely needed. The crackling is loud (but the walls are thinner than on the V4, therefore...).

Thanks,
R

 

[Chris863]

Im considering buying a kayfun v4 tobeco clone, that includes a sub ohm kit.

I cant sub ohm though on an ego battery. Can someone please tell me if this kayfun will work well enough on a regulated 3.7 volt ego? I would like around 1.5-1.8 ohms to vape. Also I use 70 % VG juice. I have 26 gauge kanthal and some labo japanese cotton to build with. Does everything sound like a go to buy one of these? They look real nice!

thanks

 

[qorax]

^It might be worthwhile to note that the K4 is a seriously 'heavy' atty.

 

[raitizz]

Im considering buying a kayfun v4 tobeco clone, that includes a sub ohm kit.

I cant sub ohm though on an ego battery. Can someone please tell me if this kayfun will work well enough on a regulated 3.7 volt ego? I would like around 1.5-1.8 ohms to vape. Also I use 70 % VG juice. I have 26 gauge kanthal and some labo japanese cotton to build with. Does everything sound like a go to buy one of these? They look real nice!

thanks

Apart from the fact, that the V4 being a heavy 22mm+ atty would make your eGo/V4 setup a small mallet (see pic), I don't think the 3.7V would fire your 26ga 1.5-1.8 Ohm build hot enough - only 7.5-9 W (not even mentioning the rampup time..), which would not give much satisfaction.
Short version - I suggest a decent mod for the V4, or another atty for the eGo.



R

 

[Kaoself]

Im considering buying a kayfun v4 tobeco clone, that includes a sub ohm kit.

I cant sub ohm though on an ego battery. Can someone please tell me if this kayfun will work well enough on a regulated 3.7 volt ego? I would like around 1.5-1.8 ohms to vape. Also I use 70 % VG juice. I have 26 gauge kanthal and some labo japanese cotton to build with. Does everything sound like a go to buy one of these? They look real nice!

thanks

You may want to pick up a suitable mod, and some 28g kanthal as well.
If you're unsure of what to get, or if money is tight at the moment; pick up a clone mech, some decent 18650 batteries such as an AW 2200, Sony VTC4 or 5, Samsung 25R, or whatever is quality and available where you are, and a charger. The batteries and charger will be useful regardless of which mod, mechanical or vv / vw, you use them with. If the mech is not to your taste after a while, it's not a big loss and you can even sell it second hand.

 

[qorax]

^Or a genuine Vapor Shark DNA30, which is just $70 now Built-in battery. Battery & charging cable included.

Genuine Vapor Shark DNA30 now $70 only

Now it's not only the size which is pocket friendly it's even the price as well! By far this is the most inexpensive "authentic" regulated mod in the globe today. With these prices is it worth seeking a clone / counterfeit anymore?

Vapor Shark DNA Batteries and Accessories | VaporShark.com

 

[Chris863]

the dna30 is definitely nice mod. Im close to buying the sigelei 150w though. It was 90 dollars over on ebay, alittle more now but not much more than the dna30(although i like the usb charging that the dna has)

Just having some issues doing my first ever rebuilds on kangerheads and figuring a rebuildable tank will give more room for error as well as just literally more room to build coil!

seeming though ill have to get a mod to use a rebuildable tank... wanna make the right choice.

 

[raitizz]

the dna30 is definitely nice mod. Im close to buying the sigelei 150w though. Its 90 dollars over on ebay.

Just having some issues doing my first ever rebuilds on kangerheads and figuring a rebuildable tank will give more room for error as well as just literally more room to build coil!

seeming though ill have to get a mod to use a rebuildable tank... wanna make the right choice.

Be cautious with Ebay.
Some online vendors have 'em for 95 USD.

R

 

[Chris863]

thanks for the warning I know lots of clones. they do have honest people though and can find some rock bottom prices. is their any type of serial number verification with the sigelei's anyone knows of?

Also fasttech they have authenic Sigelei's might go with them... I know shipping is long but I can be patient.

 

[raitizz]

thanks for the warning I know lots of clones. they do have honest people though and can find some rock bottom prices. is their any type of serial number verification with the sigelei's anyone knows of?

Also fasttech they have authenic Sigelei's might go with them... I know shipping is long but I can be patient.

Dunno about verification. Check some reviews on YT with unboxing, maybe something is mentioned.

FT has them for 97 $, if I searched correctly.

But then there's this.
Can't comment on the vendor, though.

R

 

[MattB101]

Hey Bronze, you get much snow down there. We have about 8" and it's still coming down here in Hampton, VA.

Sent while sitting on my busted ..... Stay off the ice if you can't skate. I can't and didn't.