SXK's self-branded TC mod - Nebula 50/60; TC with TCR adjustment; Big Screen; C/F temps
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I just tried the Aspire SS coils with this mod in TC. Set the "nickel purity" to 10 and to 210°C. Works somehow, takes long to reach Temp protect and then shuts of quite hard. So not really good TC but some dry hit protection if you like. Will play with the settings.
Can someone point me to this big TC Thread where the nickel purity and the settings are discussed? Cant find it.. I am still a bit lost in this forum here
Can someone point me to this big TC Thread where the nickel purity and the settings are discussed? Cant find it.. I am still a bit lost in this forum here
By the name, sounds like it was only available in the 1600's, LOL. No I have never heard of or tried it. I'm ok with the look it's taking on over time with just lite cleaning.
I've noticed that also with the TC shutter. It's quite aggressive with it cutting wattage when your temp is reached. Here's that link TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of ResistanceI just tried the Aspire SS coils with this mod in TC. Set the "nickel purity" to 10 and to 210°C. Works somehow, takes long to reach Temp protect and then shuts of quite hard. So not really good TC but some dry hit protection if you like. Will play with the settings.
Can someone point me to this big TC Thread where the nickel purity and the settings are discussed? Cant find it.. I am still a bit lost in this forum here
Yeah the TC on the SXK mods is probably the weakest of the commonly known TC mods around at the moment. Very 'cut and dried' / 'on and off'. It's probably unable to read resistance at the same time as firing, hence the sort of pulsing it does. That may be true of a number of other (cheap and/or clone) TC devices, but it seems particularly bad on the SXKs.
Regarding Stainless Steel, it's never going to be amazingly good because it's right at the lower limit of the accuracy. I would think NP of 11 or 12 would be more accurate - meaning it would reach TP later.
Another factor is that coil heads are always known to be less reliable/stable than rebuildable coils. So SS heads is a combination of a coil wire that's right at the lower end of accuracy, combined with coil heads which are usually not very accurate/stable anyway. And then vaping it on a relatively poor TC implementation (SXK). So all this combined is definitely not going to give the best vape I'd think.
Do we know what kind of Stainless Steel is used in the Aspire SS coils? SS317 is what I tested with. SS316 should work similarly. I guess it's probably one of those.
I haven't tested SS for some time now, I keep meaning to go back to try it again.
Regarding Stainless Steel, it's never going to be amazingly good because it's right at the lower limit of the accuracy. I would think NP of 11 or 12 would be more accurate - meaning it would reach TP later.
Another factor is that coil heads are always known to be less reliable/stable than rebuildable coils. So SS heads is a combination of a coil wire that's right at the lower end of accuracy, combined with coil heads which are usually not very accurate/stable anyway. And then vaping it on a relatively poor TC implementation (SXK). So all this combined is definitely not going to give the best vape I'd think.
Do we know what kind of Stainless Steel is used in the Aspire SS coils? SS317 is what I tested with. SS316 should work similarly. I guess it's probably one of those.
I haven't tested SS for some time now, I keep meaning to go back to try it again.
The corpse of @TheBloke arises! Good to have around again, dude. Yea I'm trying to get my Nebula at a somewhat stable vape even when TP hits. For me I set the temp take puff and see at what wattage TP kicks in, then back the wattage down by tiny increments until it just about hits TP. What do you do to avoid that aggressive wattage cut when TP kicks in? Gotta say tho since they fixed the ohm reading problem this mod is still nice. I've got my NP value at 35-40 for my Ti from Envy and 60-70 for my Ni from Lightening Vapes.
I have my np at 45, temp at 420, wattage at 30 on a .30 ohm Ti coil in a kayfun v4....vape is very smooth, no aggressive tp
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
With your NP setting at 45 and a temp of 420 I'd imagine you're not hitting TP very often or at all. I have a coil of the same wire, and resistance, kinda (.50) in my Kayfun monster v2 and I can pull on it for a long drag before TP kicks in. But when I do get TP it's still choppy.I have my np at 45, temp at 420, wattage at 30 on a .30 ohm Ti coil in a kayfun v4....vape is very smooth, no aggressive tp
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
I've been reusing the pre made Kanger occ heads and drilling out the juice holes to 4 mm, throwing a 7 wrap 26 gauge Ti build in there .5 ohms and rewicking with rayon. More airflow than the rba base, IMO.
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It hits tp at about 4 seconds into the hit, but doesn't bounce off it.... And I tend to do about 5 second drags
Ok I think I figured this out. I'm not getting the choppy TP when I use a thicker TC wire. I've noticed with my 26 gauge Ti, when I hit my temp it's a lot smoother than if I were using a smaller gauge of the same wire or even nickel. I'm guessing the thicker wire holds the heat longer. So when I do hit my temp limit the device still does a poor job of regulating the temp, but I just don't notice as much because of the heavier wire gauge. I'm guessing the 26 gauge is less sensitive to choppy wattage. I'm still messing and tinkering with my Nebby. Maybe you got a newer board than me @USMCotaku? What's your serial number?
I guess this one is next on my list: 2015 infinite newest original capricorn box mod, View Infinite box mod , Infinite Product Details from Shenzhen Infinite Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
might be similar to the sxk nebula (most infinite stuff is manufactured by sxk what I know). Display looks a bit different with the "watt" on it.
might be similar to the sxk nebula (most infinite stuff is manufactured by sxk what I know). Display looks a bit different with the "watt" on it.
Good to be back
And they fixed the low resistance finally? Great news! I am behind. When did that happen exactly?
And now the NP settings are what you'd expect? 62-65 for Ni, 35 for Titanium?
Can it still go down to 0.06Ω? There was a question mark as to whether the low resistance was a deliberate con to mean they could say it could do 0.06Ω when in fact it could only do 0.10Ω like the others. I never thought it was deliberate as such, but it did mean that it never actually reached 0.06Ω and therefore they might have thought it could do 0.06Ω when in fact it was doing 0.10Ω.
Anyway glad to know it's reading correctly now. How accurate are the ohms readings compared to other mods?
Ok here we go............. when they exactly fixed the ohm issue, I don't know. I can say however, my serial number is 138. And it reads any build I put on it pretty accurately. It's within a 2-3% tolerance. So let's say a .15 coil reads .16 on my VS DNA, on my Nebby it'll read .15. My Yihi IPV 4 reads a .15 coil around .13-.12. Funny you ask if it will still do the advertised ohm limit, I had a .07 ohm dual Ni coil in my Velocity clone and sometimes it would fire it and sometimes say "ohms too low" and not fire. As long as I stayed above .08, .09 it fired every time. As for the NP setting, I concur with your above assumptions. I usually set my NP value to 60-65 for my spool of 28 gauge Ni and 35-40 for my spool of 26 gauge Ti. Since you have more experience with SXK chips, what's a good way to get around or avoid that choppy, aggressive wattage cut when you reach your set temp? It feels like a super dirty PWM signal when you're bouncing off the set temp.Good to be back
And they fixed the low resistance finally? Great news! I am behind. When did that happen exactly?
And now the NP settings are what you'd expect? 62-65 for Ni, 35 for Titanium?
Can it still go down to 0.06Ω? There was a question mark as to whether the low resistance was a deliberate con to mean they could say it could do 0.06Ω when in fact it could only do 0.10Ω like the others. I never thought it was deliberate as such, but it did mean that it never actually reached 0.06Ω and therefore they might have thought it could do 0.06Ω when in fact it was doing 0.10Ω.
Anyway glad to know it's reading correctly now. How accurate are the ohms readings compared to other mods?
soooo, got my silver SXK Nebula today! As good as the black one. Black is 087, silver is 084. Somehow my black shorts out when screwing on the zephyrus tight, the silver one doesn't... no idea.
Ohm read with zeph .3 coil. Black: 0.32, Silver: 0.29. So I am fine with that. Like both and currently my all day mods!
Ohm read with zeph .3 coil. Black: 0.32, Silver: 0.29. So I am fine with that. Like both and currently my all day mods!
Take your battery door off and watch your 510 positive pin inside the Nebby as u screw down the zepherus. Make sure it's not shorting out on something. Is the zepherus 510 connection a Long one with an adjustable pin? Maybe screw it in a bit.
will do. The 510 pin in the zephyrus is quite loose, and if you push it hard it can go sideways and short out on the threads. I thought that maybe this happened, but will take a look inside the nebula, thx
Ya that's no good. Anyway to fix the pin on your zepherus? Is it just bad machining, bad insulator, or bent positive pin screw? Does it short out yer new Nebby?will do. The 510 pin in the zephyrus is quite loose, and if you push it hard it can go sideways and short out on the threads. I thought that maybe this happened, but will take a look inside the nebula, thx
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