SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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littlewierdo

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well that summed it up nicely :D

hope you find what your looking for with another mod

if set to high its like racing around in too low a gear on the highway, having to keep slamming on the brakes instead of sitting back and enjoying the ride with the cruise control on

So after making this comment above, you're going to tell me I dont understand temp control?

Have you actually set your mod to 40 joules at 400 degrees and compare to 15 joules at 400 degrees? If you did, especially after they fixed the higher joule setting in the 2.21 firmware, youd realize the vape is exactly identical, the only difference being the coil takes 2 seconds to heat up at 15 joules versus 40 joules where it is (practically) instantly at temp.

Try it, put your Joules at 15-20, fire until the temp is where you set it and THEN take a hit. Then set your Joules to 40, fire until the temp is where you set it and THEN take a hit. Its identical. THAT is how temp control works, that is how it is supposed to work. Joules is not complicated and ffs, it isnt helping anyone to define this any differently. Its making this more complicated than it really is and frankly, its misinformation.

If we HAVE to use the car analogy, it doesnt exactly fit, but its pretty close, Joules is merely the amount of gas you feed to the engine (this is different from watts which would be more closely defined in this analogy to acceleration, ie. 1-60 in x seconds) and your temp is your desired speed. The more fuel spent, the faster the car reaches speed, ie. the more power transferred from the battery to the coil, the faster the coil reaches your set temp.

Once you hit your set speed, your cruise control kicks in, ie. it adjusts down the amount of fuel fed to the engine and constantly changes the fuel spending based on resistances, that might be road type, incline / decline, wind resistance, wet / dry conditions, etc.

The vaporizer 'cruise control' works much the same way accept there is far fewer factors that change resistance but it works much the same way. At 400 degrees on a .09 ohm cold coil, the device literally only puts out 8 Joules or so to maintain the 400 degrees, which, to be technical, actually, its maintaining the coil resistance while its under load (on a .09 ohm cold coil, its around .12 ohms while under load) which is why the car analogy doesnt quite fit. But, I tried.

Back to the menu system, this is a frequent conversation in our local vape shop where pretty much everyone has an SX Mini and everyone there has said the same thing I did above regarding menu changes.

Conveniently, most of the reviews have also stated that the menu system is convoluted, clunky, and with this current change, even adds redundant settings.

Ive even seen comments in this very thread making statements like 'once you get used to the menu system'. Why? Oh right, its perfectly fine, people are just saying it just because, no reason.

The very definition of fanboyism. *sigh*

The device works fine once youve navigated the clunky ui, in fact, I like it for the most part more than the Evolv chips.

That isnt to say that its perfect, no device is, the menu system is clunky (this is coming from someone who designs UI's for a living so Im not just talking out of my ... here) and could use some reworking.

Personally? I would change the entire system, hide the UI elements you never need to see a second time in a second menu accessed with a different button combination, say Power + down held for 5 seconds, note that unlike the current setup, as soon as the device recognizes you are pressing the down button WITH the Power button, it would stop firing the atty. In here, Id put the following menu options:

Temperature Unit (C/F)
Display (Left/Right/Auto)
Sensor (On/Off)
ADD Screen Timeout (1s-60s)
Link (On/Off)
Exit (On/Off)

Note that a Screen Timeout setting would be added in this menu.

Tapping the fire button five times would cycle between the following:

Coil Select (Ni200/Titanium/Non-TC)
Joules/Watts (5-40)
Temp (212-572) (100-300)
Exit (On/Off)
System (On/Off)

REMOVE the Power & Joule setting all together because we set that in the coil select menu setting above.

Unfortunately, the device is limited because we only have three buttons and the two small buttons when pressed together set your resistance, so the only other combo we can use is the fire button and the up or down button.
 
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Hitcat44

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Individual Opinions regarding UI and what is "best" or would be "better" in general are both as Valid & Invalid as anyone/everyone else's.
Subjectivity, by definition, is neither Absolute nor is it Debatable. Arguing such is Stup,,,,, well let's just say it's a Waste of everyone's time and a Intellectual Crime against Bandwidth.
But, it is kinda fun to watch at times ;)

I'll leave the Mechanics of TC and practical application of the Theory thereof to those more knowledgeable, experienced, and proven regarding such which when combined yields Wisdom.
I personally am not qualified (as defined above) so I defer and cede to those who are indeed Wise.

Back to your Regularly Scheduled Program.
 
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dannyben

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Sorry, but you're just giving another example of illegal price-fixing. If dealers convince the OEM to change it's pricing policy to harm another dealer, then it is no longer a unilateral pricing policy. There's more than one way to conspire to fix prices. ;)

@Yozhik is 100% correct in all his examples. It is perfectly legal for any manufacturer to impose a Minimum Advertised Price (MAP). In this case, I am sure Yihi enters into a sellers agreement with all dealers prior to their initial order. We've already seen examples of NON warranty for purchases over ebay and Amazon (even OVER MAP pricing)

Can they punish the consumer? Good question. But even if they can't, as pointed out, they will still be "punished". What would likely occur is the dealer selling below MAP will get closed -- there are 100+ authorized dealers who will all be reporting him, and YiHi will not take units back from them. Perhaps you could circumvent that by making a deal with another vendor (if the serial numbers aren't logged), but try returning to Yihi and they will surely ask for a bill of sale.... not to mention the return & reshipping costs involved.

We've seen a large known vendor selling Rose units a short while back in this thread on a Memorial Day sale. Coincidentally(???), they are no longer offering Yihi on their site. Perhaps just a coincidence or blowing out units they didn't want to carry any longer, but try doing a warranty claim with them, and I am sure you'll be OOL, unless they decide to "eat it" as good will.

Heres a basic article of the differences between MSRP and MAP. Manufacturer Suggest Retail Price (MSRP) vs Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) - Explained | Nuvonium
 

2legsshrt

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Another question. I normally cut my kanthal and nickel with scissors. Am I going to be able to cut 26awg Ti with scissors or is it too strong to do that. I have a small set that is curved that I cut the excess off after placing it because I can get very close with them. Don't know anything about Ti strength is it similar to kanthal in the way it cuts.
 

Yozhik

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Another question. I normally cut my kanthal and nickel with scissors. Am I going to be able to cut 26awg Ti with scissors or is it too strong to do that. I have a small set that is curved that I cut the excess off after placing it because I can get very close with them. Don't know anything about Ti strength is it similar to kanthal in the way it cuts.

Probably depends on the quality of your scissors, but I'd suspect tougher metals will quickly dull the blade. I just use a pair of flush cutters for wire.

$2.65 PLATO [HASHTAG]#170[/HASHTAG] Flush Cutter for Rebuildable Atomizers - max.040" (1mm) dia copper Wire at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
 
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2legsshrt

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I'll tell you I am so confused about Ti that I am almost considering not trying it. I really want to but everyone has a different opinion. Nobody really knows the best place to get the wire for starters. I'm not going to pay over $1 a foot for it but I also don't want to get something I have to spend 2 hours cleaning it. IDK if one wire is better then another for vaping it is very confusing. I've never had bad nickel wire been using Lightning Vapes since I got the SX with the rDNA I did use Stealth Vapes tempered because of the crazy way you had to build a coil for it. I went to one place that makes Titan Wire and it is cheap I found an American site that sells it for $1 a foot. The place that makes it sells it for about 20cents a foot. Sweet Spot sells it for 60cents a foot not Titan wire but they say its made from medical grade titanium not that the wire is medical grade and according to them it is the best you can get. I was real tempted to get 50' from them but I don't know if what they say is true or not. Maybe I am analyzing this too much but can't even make up my mind on the wire to get. One person says get the cheapest the other says get the most expensive, should it be shiny or dull. I just want to have a good experience from the start. Sweet Spot is supposed to have the best quality but I can't find one person who has actually used it. Oh and I though vacuum annealing was a big deal then I find out it is all vacuum annealed. And I really doubt that Sweet Spot spent a year working with a foundry to come up with the best wire for vaping there is.
 
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druckle

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I'll tell you I am so confused about Ti that I am almost considering not trying it. I really want to but everyone has a different opinion. Nobody really knows the best place to get the wire for starters. I'm not going to pay over $1 a foot for it but I also don't want to get something I have to spend 2 hours cleaning it. IDK if one wire is better then another for vaping it is very confusing. I've never had bad nickel wire been using Lightning Vapes since I got the SX with the rDNA I did use Stealth Vapes tempered because of the crazy way you had to build a coil for it. I went to one place that makes Titan Wire and it is cheap I found an American site that sells it for $1 a foot. The place that makes it sells it for about 20cents a foot. Sweet Spot sells it for 60cents a foot not Titan wire but they say its made from medical grade titanium not that the wire is medical grade and according to them it is the best you can get. I was real tempted to get 50' from them but I don't know if what they say is true or not. Maybe I am analyzing this too much but can't even make up my mind on the wire to get. One person says get the cheapest the other says get the most expensive, should it be shiny or dull. I just want to have a good experience from the start. Sweet Spot is supposed to have the best quality but I can't find one person who has actually used it. Oh and I though vacuum annealing was a big deal then I find out it is all vacuum annealed. And I really doubt that Sweet Spot spent a year working with a foundry to come up with the best wire for vaping there is.
You seem to be devoted to dithering over whether to get titanium wire and have done so for a very long time. The issue is quite simple. Grade 1 titanium wire is the metallurgical type and the specifications are controlled in the U.S by ASTM. The same specifications are generally accepted world wide.

Various suppliers clean the wire (or not) in various ways and some vacuum anneal the wire to make it less "springy" in the same way as for Ni 200. Both annealed and hard wire can be used to make coils quite successfully but many folks feel the annealed wire is easier to work with. Those are the variations you will find. The same issues apply to all other wires used for coils in vaping. There are vendors who enjoy building hype about the products they sell in hope of causing people to pay far above the market price. Generally thoughtful people avoid this type of vendor but if you want to believe their marketing distortions then there's no problem except to you wallet. You will get exactly the same type of product as long as the wire is Grade 1 titanium.

Having been involved with titanium alloy development for over 35 years I can assure you that you are making the issue much more complex than it is. There really is nothing complex about it. I sincerely hope you will be able to make up your mind at some point and can begin to enjoy the pleasure of vaping with temperature controlled titanium coils. Others seem to understand the issues quite well and I hope you will be able to also and can move on to other issues.

Duane
 

Yerba

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If you don't like something, why waste your time writing a book about it? And, in the process, bore to death to all the people who really like it. I'm just looking for good tips, ways of take advantage of this mod that I chose to buy.
Always lurking here, feeling like a thread vampire, so here is my humble advice for that kind of people: create your own thread... I'll throw you a couple of possible titles -"HATERS UNITED"- well, in second thought, that one is a little bit harsh. How about this one-"VAPE GOD HERE: TELL ME WHICH MOD YOU HAVE AND I'LL TELL YOU HOW BAD IT IS"
Feeling better now that I've made my contribution.
 

Hitcat44

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I buy from Unkammen on Etsy. I pull it through an Isopropyl soaked folded pieces of TP about 5 times. Then I repeat that with the clean side of the same TP folded Wad. Then I coil it per Steam Engine around a Bit or the Kuro same as I do with Kanthal. Yes, it is a tad "springy" but it is a non-issue and I don't heat or anneal it prior to. The Coils come out fine and acceptable to me and I am a Neat & Dressed Coil Freak.
No Big Deal in the least. It functions great with no issues or problems.

I do use it on the Ni200 Profile (at the standard practice of 100* F & 8-10 J less than what you would normally. Which for me ends up at 22.5 J & 275-285* F) on my SX Mini M since the Ti Test Firmware is too haphazard at this time to be able to learn on and develop any Ti Standard Practices & Procedures.
I prefer to wait till it's dialed in and then I can discover and lock-in/memorize the Norms I will use. But, that's just me and my Way. Your Choice and Journey may vary and that's cool too.

As druckle said,,,, Relax Bro. You're tearing & wearing yourself up & out for nothing.
And that's coming from a certifiable OCD over-thinking "got to know everything about it first" Maniac.
It's all good.
 

mr.fabe

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Help please. I just got my SXMini M class today, and also a Herakles with their Ni200 coils. when I go to lock in the resistance it correctly reads at .025. However when I go to fire it up, I receive the low resistance warning. Is there a step or something I am missing

I believe the lowest is can go in Ni200 mode is .05 ohms, recommended is .065 ohms
 

Yozhik

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Help please. I just got my SXMini M class today, and also a Herakles with their Ni200 coils. when I go to lock in the resistance it correctly reads at .025. However when I go to fire it up, I receive the low resistance warning. Is there a step or something I am missing

Are you in Joules mode?
 

Vlad1

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Help please. I just got my SXMini M class today, and also a Herakles with their Ni200 coils. when I go to lock in the resistance it correctly reads at .025. However when I go to fire it up, I receive the low resistance warning. Is there a step or something I am missing

Min Typical Max
Standard Atomizer Resistance 0.15 Ohms 1.5 Ohms 3.0 Ohms
Joules Mode Atomizer Resistance 0.05 Ohms 0.065 Ohms 0.3 Ohms
 

jazzvaper

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I'll tell you I am so confused about Ti that I am almost considering not trying it. I really want to but everyone has a different opinion. Nobody really knows the best place to get the wire for starters. I'm not going to pay over $1 a foot for it but I also don't want to get something I have to spend 2 hours cleaning it. IDK if one wire is better then another for vaping it is very confusing. I've never had bad nickel wire been using Lightning Vapes since I got the SX with the rDNA I did use Stealth Vapes tempered because of the crazy way you had to build a coil for it. I went to one place that makes Titan Wire and it is cheap I found an American site that sells it for $1 a foot. The place that makes it sells it for about 20cents a foot. Sweet Spot sells it for 60cents a foot not Titan wire but they say its made from medical grade titanium not that the wire is medical grade and according to them it is the best you can get. I was real tempted to get 50' from them but I don't know if what they say is true or not. Maybe I am analyzing this too much but can't even make up my mind on the wire to get. One person says get the cheapest the other says get the most expensive, should it be shiny or dull. I just want to have a good experience from the start. Sweet Spot is supposed to have the best quality but I can't find one person who has actually used it. Oh and I though vacuum annealing was a big deal then I find out it is all vacuum annealed. And I really doubt that Sweet Spot spent a year working with a foundry to come up with the best wire for vaping there is.

This should make your decision a lot easier and less confusing. :)

Just don't buy all of it. ;)
 
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