SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

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Vlad1

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I updated mine months ago when the TI update first came out. But yesterday my screen started scrambling - anytime I go into menu mode it goes up and down all the options without stopping and changes all the settings - I can't change them back, because it does the same thing anytime I go into the menu :-( Guess I'd better hope Yihi will replace it since I bought it at the end of May! Has anyone else had this issue?

I seen a couple pictures early on of some scrambled screens something like 1 or 2 out of every 100,000 units was being reported. If it's the same problem the resolution was to re-apply the firmware. Might make a call to your vendor to get the ball rolling in case that doesn't fix.

Edit: is the screen garbled or just scrolling? I may have misread your post.
If it's scrolling that's to do with the gravity sensor and could be a different problem entirely.
 

AmandaD

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The screen was scrolling. I tried to reapply the update, but while the PC recognized that a device was plugged in the updater couldn't connect. Then it went completely dead - so now I can't even turn it on. I did call Vapor Shark, but they said contact Yihi. I emailed Yihi, but they're on vacation till October 4. A bit sad that a $200 device would die after 4 months!
 

AmandaD

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Take your battery out and leave it out. Have the SXI Program running on your pc, connect the SXmini to your pc then click the connect in the SXI program under Connection. There's a tutorial somewhere that has 3 different methods to try I'll see if I can find it.
I did all that. It wouldn't connnect at all. I did update the firmware several months ago, and it worked fine then, but now it's kaput - it doesn't even respond to putting in a battery - dead as a dodo.
 

Vlad1

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I did all that. It wouldn't connnect at all. I did update the firmware several months ago, and it worked fine then, but now it's kaput - it doesn't even respond to putting in a battery - dead as a dodo.

Well dang, it may have just failed then. I did find an old image I had saved on the update process you might try all 3. You also might try on another PC and battery just to make sure. Wish I could have helped more.

upload_2015-10-1_11-22-57.png
 

nj1001

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Ugh, I just got the new Vapor Flask SX. First time using the chip. I absolutely LOVED it!!! for about 10 mins before I get the non-stop "Dry Coil No Liquid" screen.
I apologize in advance as I admit, I did not read 408 earlier pages in this thread because I don't have the time to clear my schedule for a week to do so but I'll try to when I can.

Using Ni200, 0.13Ω in a squape @ 19.5J & set to 410º. Coil's juicy despite the screen's warning. Can't even get a 1 sec pull off it. Any quick advice would be tremendously appreciated.

Thank you.

(background experience: I've vaped nothing but the DNA40 with Ni200 hard over the last year, so I definitely do have to get used to the YiHi)
-again, I'm sorry for not reading the entire thread, I know if I did I wouldn't have to ask. I hate being that guy, but right now I am. Sorry.

I can't even use this device & it was so so so so nice for 10 mins.
 

nj1001

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Initially I locked it in at 0.13Ω which is the expected Ω rating (0.30mm (28/29AWG) tempered Ni200, 8 evenly spaced wraps around 3mm bit.

When I re-locked it I got a higher Ω. The squape's adjustable pin can affect Ω (I can increase or decrease resistance by tightening or loosening the center pin slightly). I ended up re-locking it at 0.16Ω and it worked again for a few vapes before I again got the 'dry coil no liquid' nonsense.

It seems to be related to ohms & heat. Just have to figure it out I guess.

I'll have to do a full re-test by letting the atty sit for 10 mins, re-wick looser, pop it back in.
 

Vlad1

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Initially I locked it in at 0.13Ω which is the expected Ω rating (0.30mm (28/29AWG) tempered Ni200, 8 evenly spaced wraps around 3mm bit.

When I re-locked it I got a higher Ω. The squape's adjustable pin can affect Ω (I can increase or decrease resistance by tightening or loosening the center pin slightly). I ended up re-locking it at 0.16Ω and it worked again for a few vapes before I again got the 'dry coil no liquid' nonsense.

It seems to be related to ohms & heat. Just have to figure it out I guess. I might try re-wicking (with cotton bacon) looser.

If your using Ni200 and have an atty that isn't consistent and stable with resistance you won't get a consistent vaping experience. That most likely explains why your seeing the "Dry Coil" message since it thinks you're coils hotter than it actually is due to the unstable resistance of your atty. If using Ni200 you need to have solid stable connectivity and allow both the atty and device to sit for about 10-15 minutes to get to room temperature. Then lock the resistance (assuming it's not fluctuating) and you should get a reliable consistent vape at that point.
 

nj1001

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Thank you Vlad.

Its just that the only set up I've used for the last 11 months has been the squape running nickel on a DNA40 flask, vaping hard all day everyday. In that respect, its not my first rodeo & not with that atty in temp mode, however, when it comes to the YiHi chip, this definitely is my first time.

So yeah, I need to re-stabilize/reinforce my center pin which'll hopefully help.

I have found that the squape is stable despite what I explained & I realize that it shouldn't perform like that (i.e. center pin adjustments affecting resistance). However, once adjusted to a resistance/Ω rating, it is very consistent with whatever resistance its been set to. e.g. the resistance doesn't jump all over the place when using a DNA40 where the resistance is not locked-in like it is on the YiHi or the new manual Ω lock function on newer DNA40 chip sets. This shows that, despite being slightly adjustable for me via center pin, the resistance is at the same time consistent once its set & won't jump around like can be experienced when coil's legs aren't secured.

I check the expected ohm rating on steam engine and adjust accordingly for my resistance to match up to its expected ohm rating & go from there.

Of course, based on the same principal of allowing coils to sit for 10-15 mins to reach consistent room temperature & therefore accurately calibrate its resistance, the opposite is true where resistance increases when the coil is above room temp. Perhaps, my issue may come from repeated use/heating of the coil, the coil gets so hot it wants to increase resistance but with its ohms locked in, it reads that the coil is dry when it isn't. This is strange to me coming from temp control limitations of DNA40 being a limiting factor, whereas with the YiHi, the temp doesn't appear to come close to maxing out. It seems the SX350J instead limits it by thinking the coil's gone dry which might essentially be another term for a similar action occurring at the coil because a dry coil heats up faster than a wet one.
 
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nj1001

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I had the same thing happen with GEM on my SXM. I took out the 510 & cleaned it & reinstalled. This fixed the issue for me.
Ugh, lol. Last night I fully disassembled my squape and threw it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few cycles. Haven't seen it so sparkly fresh & clean since I got it. It really blew be away. Maybe I'll toss er back in for a few more rounds, reinforce the center pin with a bit of teflon and see what that does for me.
 

JimScotty0

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I updated mine months ago when the TI update first came out. But yesterday my screen started scrambling - anytime I go into menu mode it goes up and down all the options without stopping and changes all the settings - I can't change them back, because it does the same thing anytime I go into the menu :-( Guess I'd better hope Yihi will replace it since I bought it at the end of May! Has anyone else had this issue?
Are you sure it isn't the gravity sensor doing its job? You need to have the mod vertical to make changes with the gravity sensor on.
 

JimScotty0

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Ugh, lol. Last night I fully disassembled my squape and threw it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few cycles. Haven't seen it so sparkly fresh & clean since I got it. It really blew be away. Maybe I'll toss er back in for a few more rounds, reinforce the center pin with a bit of teflon and see what that does for me.
What happens if you manually saturate the wick? I have found that too much wicking can generate the dry coil message due to it being too dry.
 

AmandaD

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Are you sure it isn't the gravity sensor doing its job? You need to have the mod vertical to make changes with the gravity sensor on.

And that would explain why I can't even turn it on now? LOL It started with the other issue, and a few minutes later died. Dead as a dodo!
 
Initially I locked it in at 0.13Ω which is the expected Ω rating (0.30mm (28/29AWG) tempered Ni200, 8 evenly spaced wraps around 3mm bit.

When I re-locked it I got a higher Ω. The squape's adjustable pin can affect Ω (I can increase or decrease resistance by tightening or loosening the center pin slightly). I ended up re-locking it at 0.16Ω and it worked again for a few vapes before I again got the 'dry coil no liquid' nonsense.

It seems to be related to ohms & heat. Just have to figure it out I guess.

I'll have to do a full re-test by letting the atty sit for 10 mins, re-wick looser, pop it back in.

You should never adjust ohms by loosening or tightening a post!!! The post should always be as tight as possible. Don't try to match a reading from a pc program. If all your connections are tight your resistance will read correctly. Lock it in cold and the sx will work like a charm.
 

nj1001

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I got it working well for most of the day, then out of the blue, I get the "check atomizer" screen. I understand what causes it to go off under normal circumstances, however, with centerpin screwed in all the way, all the way out & everything in between (in 1/4-1/2 turn increments) on a hand full of different attys (Aqua, Kayfun v4, KS, Origen & Russian 91%), and I get nothing but "check atomizer" with my SX350J. Each of them worked perfectly fine on 2 DNA40 devices each with the same resistance readings on both DNA's. I do think I got one of the first VF SX editions today, so it may be related to being super new & I prey that whenever V2.5 VF firmware is available, simply trying a reload might fix it, but I fear I may have to send it in for repairs.

Anyone hear about that issue with the chip over here?

I'm running software V2.5 not even released on YiHi's site from what I can tell.
 

coustain

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Great glad that fixed it for you. You know there have been several that have reported getting replacements under warranty for the paint as well. You could contact Perry at Varitube.com and see about getting it replaced.
I have had mine since release and just replaced it under warranty with Gingervapes.


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Vlad1

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I got it working well for most of the day, then out of the blue, I get the "check atomizer" screen. I understand what causes it to go off under normal circumstances, however, with centerpin screwed in all the way, all the way out & everything in between (in 1/4-1/2 turn increments) on a hand full of different attys (Aqua, Kayfun v4, KS, Origen & Russian 91%), and I get nothing but "check atomizer" with my SX350J. Each of them worked perfectly fine on 2 DNA40 devices each with the same resistance readings on both DNA's. I do think I got one of the first VF SX editions today, so it may be related to being super new & I prey that whenever V2.5 VF firmware is available, simply trying a reload might fix it, but I fear I may have to send it in for repairs.

Anyone hear about that issue with the chip over here?

I'm running software V2.5 not even released on YiHi's site from what I can tell.

Sounds like you may be having a problem with the 510 on the Vaporflask. Are you able to read the correct resistance on any of the atty's when you place them on? As for the firmware, my understanding is it's custom for Vaporflask at least in part to allow the 100w while in parallel config. Could be some other differences as well that I'm unaware of but it wouldn't hurt to contact Vaporflask to see what they suggest.
 
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