I've noticed that the temps on the SX Mini M seem to both fluctuate and slightly go over the temp settings based on the videos Ive seen.
Even on their own test video.
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I've noticed that the temps on the SX Mini M seem to both fluctuate and slightly go over the temp settings based on the videos Ive seen.
Even on their own test video.
a tez,
There is absolutely no way 415 degrees F will burn wet or dry cotton or rayon. The black you are seeing is just juice gunk build up in the wick. Usually if you pull the wick and run warm tap water on it will usually turn white as snow unless it is a very old which in which case you may have to use a little dish soap to get the stain out. (I am not suggesting this as a method to recover wick material just to determine if it is burnt)
If you ever pull a wick from one end and the wick separates in the middle and only half comes out you can start to worry about burnt wicks. Otherwise you are golden.
A joule is one watt for one second. For example, 50 joules could be 5 watts for 10 seconds or 10 watts for 5 seconds or 50 watts for 1 second. The more joules the more the device tries to output to the coil. A joule is passing an electric current of 1 amp through a resistance of 1 ohm for 1 second. Simply put: one watt second.
It took me a couple weeks to understand after I purchase the Yihi SX Mini M Class 350, but once ya get it understood and it works like a dream.
It took me a couple weeks to understand after I purchase the Yihi SX Mini M Class 350, but once ya get it understood and it works like a dream.
Yea that's exactly what mine is doing. I guess that is normal then.
On both my Flask and Hana the temp will only ever go 1-5F higher then set temp.
You had to ask... I use an 8" piece of plastic tubing that just squeezes into my drip tip.
Yea it must be gunk. I am using Cascade from Adirondack Vapor and it is creamy. Like I said it still tastes fine, and no it doesn't rip apart when I pull it out. Still fully saturated and it one piece.
I only ask because when using the same juice on my DNA 40 devices it only turns slightly brown. This was really dark so I got a little worried.
I am sure the DNA40 does similar but they have filtered the instantaneous variations so you don't see it. If you notice everything the SX displays is fast and a little jumpy vs the DNA40 which displays item a little slower (smoothed out) but that doesn't necessarily mean internally it is not doing the same as the SX.
What is happening with your vape and temps is this: Your J setting is too high for the temp you have set. I think of the temp setting on mine as a "max", or a safety to avoid dry hits. I try to not actually hit that temp and make the unit regulate the voltage to keep it there. I always keep my temp set at around 475-500, and just adjust my J's up as i would the W's on a VW device to get up to the vape i want. Adjust my "J's" down until the temp stays just under whatever temp i have set while i am vaping on the high end of things. Since i started doing this i get a much better overall vape i think. Just my $.02
Oh. And i love this device.
I have. Keeping it at 400F with no cotton it provides power for a second and then displays the dry coil warning. Cotton turns slightly brown. At 410F the same dry coil warning happens but the wick turns a little more brown, but that is expected since cotton starts to turn brown at 410F.
Yea I adjusted my Joules so now my devices isn't hitting the 400F I have it set on. It's hovering in the 380F range.
I am sure the DNA40 does similar but they have filtered the instantaneous variations so you don't see it. If you notice everything the SX displays is fast and a little jumpy vs the DNA40 which displays item a little slower (smoothed out) but that doesn't necessarily mean internally it is not doing the same as the SX.
I guess its a refresh issue and how much time the value displayed is averaged over (window size) Longer window size will, as HolmanGT says, effectively filter out transient, large fluctuations. Again as HGT says, the SX refresh is very fast compared to the DNA40.
So my guess would be that it's regulating the temp pretty efficiently and it is indeed just the juice or carbon from the coils. The only other option would be that for some reason, the chip isn't regulating properly when dealing with fluctuating temps from the juice. If you haven't noticed any change in taste however ... I think you are perfectly fine.
This is a theory anyways. We honestly don't know and probably won't unless someone comes up with a pretty precise method to test TC in comparison to the power output.
At the end of the day, people are making assumptions based on the screen display. That can be dangerous.
I would go back and re-work the chart.
28awg NI200 - 6-7 wraps - 3mm ID coil should give you 0.1Ω. To get to 0.065Ω you only need 4 wraps.
I run 28awg NI200 - 11 wraps - 3mm ID coil and get 0.15Ω on my tank, 22J 420º standard and get a nice warm vape.
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Aha you are right must have had something plugged into it wrong. Now does anyone run a .065ohm coil like they recommend for the best performance? 4 wraps seems pretty small to me. Finally something you don't have to put 10 wraps on if you don't want. .065 seems awfully low to me but that was their recommendation. think I'll try 7 or 8. Has anyone tried a microcoil?
Boy this thread is burning up must be running about 150 Joules huh? And 650 degrees
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